- Section 1 - Gateway to Japan
- Section 2 - Traditional dresses in Japan
- Section 3 - Footwear and other accessories
- Section 4 - Evolution over the years
- Section 5 - Modern Japanese dressing
- Section 6 - References
Japan is situated to the north of Asia's eastern coast. It is an archipelago, made up of thousands of islands, the major onesamong them being Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. The country has apopulation of about 130 million, consisting of people from different ethnicgroups. This makes it the 10th highest populated country in theworld. The major groups that Japan is home to are Koreans, Chinese, Ryukyuan,Burakumin, and Ainu. In spite of this, it is one of the most culturallyhomogenous country in the world. The major languages spoken here are Japanese,Ryukyuan, and Ainu, with Shinto and Buddhism being the major religions that arefollowed here.
Section 2 - Traditional dresses in Japan
Fashion in Japan has evolved over the years. Clothing used in Japan today is very much similar to that in other parts of the world. This section studies the dresses that have traditionally been used in Japan.
Japanese traditional dresses include kimonos, hakama, yukata and jūnihitoe.
Kimonos
The kimono, meaning 'clothing' in Japanese, is the national dress of Japan. It is perhaps the most well-known symbol of Japan.
A kimono refers to a robe that is T-shaped, free flowing, and has a straight line to it. Both men and women wear kimonos. Typically, it is full-sleeved and reaches up to the ankles. A kimono is generally wrapped around the body of the wearer, from left to right. It is secured with a wide sash, commonly known as 'obi'. The sash is tied at the back.
There are different types of kimonos, worn by different classes of people and on different occasions. Kimonos are available in different kinds of materials as well. Kimonos range from highly formal to casual. The extent of formality of a kimono is determined by its fabric, pattern, and colour, as well as the number of crests in it. Having about five crests (known as 'Kamon' in Japanese) on one's kimonos signifies the highest level of formality. A kimono made of silk similarly signifies a high degree of formality, whereas those of cotton and polyester signify casualness.
Kimonos for men are commonly available in the basic shape only, in muted colours. Conversely, women's kimonos are available in a variety of styles, patterns and colours. Men's kimonos are usually found in a single, standard size, while women's kimonos can be found in varied sizes.
Traditionally, kimonos for unmarried girls are more elaborately patterned and have flowing sleeves, sometimes floor-length. This is an indicator of their single status. These kimonos have bold colours, and the sash or 'obi' is also of a bright colour. This type of kimono is called 'Furisode'. The word 'Furisode' means 'swinging sleeves' in Japanese.
Kimonos which have simple patterns on them, typically a geometrical pattern or a dotted one, usually made of cotton and similar fabrics, are called 'Edo Kamon'. Such kimonos are considered to be more casual. When small patterns are repeatedly used on the kimono, it is referred to as 'Komon'.
The kind of kimono worn by performing artistes (geisha) in Japan is known as 'Susohiki' or 'Hikizuri'. It is longer and more free-flowing as compared to an ordinary kimono, and trails on the floor.
In Japanese weddings, the bride usually wears a heavily embroidered white kimono that is quite heavy. This type of kimono is known as 'Shiromuku' and is usually worn with an elaborate hair accessory. The groom wears a black-coloured kimono made of Habutae silk, along with a pleated skirt known as 'Hakama' and a black coat known as 'Haori'. The groom carries the crest of the family to his wedding, as a tradition.
While attending funerals, both Japanese men and women wear simple, black kimonos. In case of a wedding, the black kimono worn by men is accessorized by a white-coloured tie, while a black-coloured tie is preferred in case of funerals.
'Kurotomesode' is another kind of formal kimono, usually worn by married women. It is made of black fabric, and is patterned from the waist down. Commonly, the mothers of the bride and the groom wear this kimono to the wedding. 'Irotomesode' refers to a kimono that is similar to a kurotomesode in pattern and style, but slightly less formal. This type of kimono is worn by the near and dear ones of the bride and the groom at a wedding. Usually, it is preferred by married women.
'Homongi' refers to kimonos that have patterns over the shoulders and sleeves. They are preferred on formal occasions. It is worn both by married and unmarried women. Usually, the friends of the bride wear a homongi to her wedding.
Silk kimonos of a single colour, having designs in the same colour, are known as 'Iromuji'. They are worn by both married and unmarried women, and are the garment of preference at tea ceremonies.
The 'Uchikake' is a garment similar to a kimono in style, with heavy brocade on it. It is worn by brides on their weddings as well as by women giving stage performances. It is a kind of coat, supposed to be worn over the kimono. It is rather free flowing, and trails on the ground. Usually, the uchikake is white in colour, or have a number of bold colours, with red as the base colour.
The wearing of a kimono is an elaborate process, requiring a lot of time and effort. About 12 different pieces of clothing constitute a kimono, which are secured in different ways. Traditionally, this art was passed on by mothers to their daughters. In today's times, however, a number of schools have come up that teach one how to wear a kimono. There are a number of kimono dressers in Japan, who work in salons or pay house visits to aid women in the wearing of kimonos. Their services are commonly taken on special occasions.
Hakama
'Hakama' refers to another garment that has traditionally worn by the Japanese. As stated above, a hakama is a kind of pleated skirt. It is usually worn on top of a kimono. Tied at the waist, it usually extends to the ankles of the wearer. It commonly has 7 pleats 2 in the front and 5 at the back. These pleats signify the 7 virtues of the Bushido, the code of conduct of the Samurai. Initially, hakama were worn only by Samurai warriors and later only by men, but are now worn both by men and ladies.
The hakama is secured at the waist using 4 straps 2 long ones attached to the front portion and 2 short ones attached to the back. It has a stiff, board-like object at the back with a spoon-shaped object attached to it, which is tucked into the obi when worn. The straps of a hakama are known as 'himo' in Japanese, while the board-like object is known as 'koshi-ate'. The spoon-shaped component is referred to as 'hakama dome'.
There are 2 distinct types of hakama: Divided and Undivided. The divided hakama is referred to as 'Umanori', and it is divided in the middle, in a fashion similar to trousers. As opposed to this, the undivided hakama does not have any division. It is referred to as 'Andon Bakama'. As the Umanori kind of hakama was traditionally used for the purpose of horse riding, it became popular as 'Horse-riding hakama'. There is also a third type of hakama, commonly used by people working in the fields and and forests. It became popularly known as 'mountain hakama' or 'field hakama'. This type of hakama was comparatively narrower at the bottom and loose at the waist. High-ranking officials in the court of law wore another kind of hakama, called 'Naga Bakama' (meaning 'long hakama'). It was rather long as compared to the normal hakama, and would trail to the floor. This type of hakama is now only used at the time of carrying out certain rituals specific to the Shinto group, or for theatre performances.
It is believed that the samurai wore hakama in order to conceal their steps from their enemies. However, hakamas later began to be used to protect the kimono from dust and wear and tear.
Men's hakamas used on formal occasions are generally made of silk fabric that is stiff. It is commonly striped, either in black and white or black and navy blue. Unstriped hakamas or those with stripes in other colours are preferred on less formal occasions. A hakama can be worn with any kind of kimono, except with the yukata. In case of hakamas meant for females, stripes are rarely found. They are usually found in single colours or specially dyed in different tones of the same colour. A few flowers might also be embroidered on women's hakamas.
Another point of difference between hakamas worn by men and women is the style of tying them. Men usually tie the hakama at the waist, while women tie them at the bust line.
Yukata
A yukata is another
traditional Japanese garment, which can be considered as a more casual version
of the kimono. The term 'Yukata' means 'bathing clothes', though the garment is
worn on other occasions as well. Apart from using yukatas after a bath, the Japanese
people are commonly found to wear them on occasions such as firework displays
and at other celebrations. Sumo wrestlers wear yukata when they go out in
public. Traditional Japanese inns offer yukata to their guests to wear, so that
they can feel comfortable.
The yukata is a comfortable, cooling garment, and is usually made of light cotton fabric. It is widely preferred for use during hot and humid weather. On account of the comfort that it affords to the wearer, it is also popularly referred to as the 'happy coat'. The style of the yukata is very much similar to that of the kimono with a straight cut and wide sleeves. However, it is unlined.
Commonly, the colour and the pattern of the yukata varies from wearer to wearer. Young women prefer wearing yukata with floral patterns on them, while children wear yukata with a number of bold colours. On the other hand, an older person would prefer yukata with simple geographical patterns and more sober colours.
The process of wearing a yukata is comparatively simple. The left side of the garment is wrapped over the right, and it is secured with an obi. However, when a dead body is dressed in a yukata for a funeral, this procedure is reversed. In this situation, the right side of the yukata is wrapped over the left. The yukata that is commonly used at home after a bath usually have a belt attached to them, and wearing them is even simpler.
The obi used for tying yukata is similar to that used in case of a kimono. Some people prefer to tie the obi in a decorative fashion such as with a large bow. Sometimes, the obi in case of yukata might be decorated with tassels.
Jūnihitoe
The jūnihitoe is a more complex version of the kimono. In fact, the word 'jūnihitoe' itself means a '12-layer robe' in Japanese. The innermost layer of the garment is made of white silk or cotton, over which several other layers are put on. The final layer is a coat. Considered in toto, the jūnihitoe is quite a heavy garment, and might weigh upto 20 kg.
The layers that commonly make up a jūnihitoe are:
- The undergarment, which, as stated above, is a garment made of white silk or cotton.
- The 'kosode' i.e. a robe made of silk that extends to the ankles or the lower calf. It is commonly red or white in colour.
- The 'hakama' i.e. a pleated skirt that is usually of red colour
- The 'hitoe' i.e. a robe without lining, which is usually red, white or blue in colour
- The 'uchigi' i.e. a few light, unlined robes in a bright colour
- The 'uchiginu' i.e. a stiff robe made of silk, which is usually scarlet in colour
- The 'uwagi' i.e. a silk robe that is made of silk and is beautifully patterned.
- The 'karaginu' i.e. a jacket that extends to the waist.
Depending upon the temperature, some of these layers were sometimes reduced.
Being the most exquisite of Japanese dresses, it is also one of the most expensive garments.
The Crown Princess of Japan, Masako, wore a jūnihitoe at her wedding ceremony. In the year 1990, Empress Michiko of Japan also wore a jūnihitoe at the enthronement of Emperor Akihito. During this ceremony, the ladies in waiting were also wearing jūnihitoe; however, the garments donned by them were the lighter versions that evolved later.
Section 3 - Footwear and other accessories
The Japanese have traditionally used certain accessories along with their garments. Some of them are as under:
Obi
The 'obi' is a sash that is worn with a number of traditional Japanese garments. It is worn by both males and females. In some cases, the obi is the outermost sash, which conceals a number of small sashes worn within.
The obi was traditionally made of silk, which is still the most preferred fabric for the same.
The obi used by men are commonly rectangular in shape, with a length of 2 mt. or more and a width of about 5-6 cm. They are usually found in dark colours, black and blue for instance, and do not have much decoration on them, except for decorative stitches using thread in a contrasting colour. Usually, men wrap the obi once or twice around their waists, and secure it with a knot at the back, slightly off the centre. Usually, men wear their obi rather low on their waists.
Women's obi is usually twice as wide as men's obi, and even longer. They are quite ornamental and colourful; however, the extent of the decoration and the brightness of the colour depends to a large extent on the age of the wearer, the style of the kimono, the season as well as the occasion. Women in Japan tie their obi rather high, with the top of the obi just under the breasts. Like men, women also wrap their obi once or twice around their waists. Women use different kinds of knots to secure their obi, and they prefer tying the knot right at the centre of the back.
Tabi
'Tabi' refers to ankle-length socks that have traditionally been worn by the Japanese. They have a separation between the big toe and the other toes, to make for comfortable wear. They are worn by both males and females.
There is another version of the tabi, made of thicker fabric, known as 'jika-tabi'. Workmen prefer to wear them, as they are more durable.
Zori
'Zori' is a pair of open, slip-on sandals, traditionally worn by the Japanese. They are typically worn with the kimono.
Geta
'Geta' refers to a pair of flip-flops, which have traditionally been worn in Japan. They have a high, wooden base, about 5 cm. in height. The Japanese usually wear geta with yukata and with kimono. Geta is worn on highly formal occasions only.
There is another form of the geta, which has a base that is about 7-10 cm. high. This type of geta is called 'Amageta-geta' and is worn during the monsoons.
Geta are very much similar to the thongs, which are popular in the West. Usually, men's geta have plain wood and simple, black-coloured straps, while in case of women's geta, the wood used is lacquered and the straps are made of brightly coloured velvet or silk.
Waragi
'Waragi' is a kind of traditional Japanese footwear. The most interesting part of this footwear is that it is worn in different ways by different people. Typically, when the waragi is worn, the tops of the toes would extend over the base of the sandal.
Chopsticks
Japanese women often wear chopsticks in their hair. Usually, when a kimono is worn, chopsticks are preferred to be an ideal hair accessory.
Fan
A fan is considered to be a very important accessory by Japanese women. Fans, held together with a rope when closed, are used by Japanese women with traditional dresses such as the kimono and the jūnihitoe. These fans were not only used by the ladies to keep themselves cool, but also served another purpose. In the rather conservative society in Japan of long ago, it was considered inappropriate for ladies to talk to men. Hence, women used to shield themselves with open fans held up against their faces while talking to an outsider. Even today, some Japanese women carry fans with them sometimes, but it is more of a fancy accessory now.
Section 4 - Evolution over the years
Traditional Japanese clothing has evolved over the years. Some of the significant changes that have taken place have been outlined in this section.
Talking about kimonos, the national garment of Japan, the styles, patterns, fabrics, etc. have evolved over time. The kimono has evolved over time. The origin of the kimono dates as far back as the 7th century. However, it was used only as an undergarment at that time. The kimono as we know it today originated in the Heian period i.e. in 1000 AD. During this period, kimonos were long, loose and layered. In the Edo period, i.e. in the 17th century, kimonos were still very much similar in style to those in the Heian period. In the 18th century, the kimonos became more form-fitting; however, they continued to be long and flowing, with long, flowing sleeves. Trains were also in vogue during this period of time. In the 19th century, clothing became even more fitting, lengths were reduced, and the sleeves also became shorter. Trains were no longer in use during this period. In today's times, kimonos have been even more stylish, though the traditional elements have, more or less, been retained.
Today, the kimono is
worn only on special and very formal occasions, such as weddings, funerals, coming-of-age
functions, New Year's Eve, and graduation. Moreover, it is now worn
most often by women. Kimonos are now preferred only by older people, with the younger
generations going in for Western dresses. Apart from this, professional Sumo
wrestlers wear kimonos when they make a public appearance, as is the tradition.
Silk is still considered the preferred fabric for kimonos. On formal occasions, silk kimonos are preferred. However, in today's times, kimono are also available in Japan in easy-to-care-for fabrics like cotton, satin, cotton-satin, polyester, rayon and other fabrics. These kimonos are less expensive as compared to silk ones.
The attitudes of the Japanese towards the hakama have also changed. In today's times, men hardly wear hakama, except on formal occasions like tea ceremonies, weddings or funerals. They are also worn by those who practice martial arts such as kendo, iaido, aikido, and kyūdō. Sumo wrestlers also wear a hakama when they make an appearance in public. Shinto priests also wear the hakama routinely. Some schools also require senior students to wear hakama.
Japanese women today wear hakamas only at graduation ceremonies. Women who assist in carrying out various ceremonies, called 'Miko' in Japanese, sometimes wear hakamas. In this case, the hakama is usually bright red, worn over a plain white kimono, or a long, flowing naga-bakama at the time of the ceremony.
Coming to the yukata, it was originally worn by people of the upper class to bathing houses. However, with the passage of time, it began to be worn by common people too, and became a highly popular form of clothing. The yukata is worn even today by the Japanese on various occasions.
Initially, yukata were made of plain cotton and dyed in indigo blue colour. In today's times, however, yukata are available in a large number of colours and patterns.
As for the jūnihitoe,
its origin dates back to the 10th century, when it was worn only by
Japanese court ladies. Japanese ladies have even been known to sleep in the
jūnihitoe.
Like the kimono, the jūnihitoe has evolved over time. On account of the heavy weight of the jūnihitoe, movement was rather difficult. For this reason, the layers of the jūnihitoe reduced over time, and the garment became lighter.
In today's times, there is hardly anyone who wears the jūnihitoe. The production of the garment is very less, and it is only seen in movies and museums.
The obi has also become more decorative and fashionable over time.
Japanese traditional footwear has also not been left behind. It has also considerably changed over the years. The waragi was highly popular among common people in Japan, but in today's times, it is worn only by Buddhist monks. The zori has become more fashionable, and is now available in different styles.
Section 5 - Modern Japanese dressing
Modern clothing in Japan is a mixture of Japanese and Western styles. Some people prefer to stick to traditional Japanese clothes, while most have switched to Western garments. Some people prefer to mix both the dressing styles for instance, wearing a kimono with western-style sandals and hairstyles. Some people prefer to wear western garb, but with a Japanese touch incorporated into it.
Western clothing began to be worn in Japan about a century back, and now it is very prominently found among the Japanese. Here, western-styled clothing refers to denims, shirts, suits and skirts, as well as accessories like sandals and sports shoes. The major reason behind this change in dressing style was the awareness that traditional Japanese garments were rather cumbersome for everyday wear. After western-style clothing was introduced in Japan, even the kimono underwent several changes. Another reason that could be cited for the same is the influence of the western culture.
The popularity of western garments in Japan is clear from the statistics available regarding the production of silk and other fabrics in the country. Figures indicate that the production of silk has gone down by a much higher percentage in the last couple of decades, as compared to that of other fabrics like cotton.
In spite of the speedily rising popularity of western traditions in Japan, it would be wrong to say that Japanese traditions have completely faded away. The same applies to clothing as well.
Section 6 - References
The major references used in the preparation of this report are:
- http://www.culturalprofiles.net
- http://en.wikipedia.org
- http://www.buzzle.com
- http://www.japan_zone.com
- http://www.dragonstrike.com
- http://www.asij.ac.jp
Picture courtesy:
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