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Interview with Anuja Gupta and Pratanksha Gupta

Anuja Gupta and Pratanksha Gupta
Anuja Gupta and Pratanksha Gupta
Co-founders
Chowkhat
Chowkhat

We select artisans with a focus on preserving the authenticity
Chowkhat is a pioneering brand dedicated to making handmade products both accessible and affordable worldwide. Founded in 2020, Chowkhat not only sells clothing but also celebrates the stories and craftsmanship of local artisans, promoting the rich, yet often overlooked, art forms of India. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, sisters and Co-founders Anuja Gupta and Pratanksha Gupta discuss manufacturing and selling of handmade products like Chikankari through their online platform.

How do you think the rise of e-commerce platforms has impacted the accessibility of handmade products to consumers?

The rise of e-commerce platforms has significantly impacted the accessibility of handmade products to consumers in several ways. Firstly, the internet has increased the visibility of handmade products, allowing artisans and small businesses to showcase their creations to a global audience. This increased visibility has made it easier for consumers to discover unique and artisanal items that may not have been easily accessible through traditional retail channels.
Moreover, e-commerce platforms provide a convenient and seamless shopping experience, making it easier for consumers to explore and purchase handmade products from the comfort of their homes. This convenience has contributed to the growing demand for handmade items, as consumers seek out authentic and one-of-a-kind products that reflect craftsmanship and individuality.
Additionally, e-commerce platforms offer robust marketing tools and resources that enable artisans and small businesses to effectively promote their handmade products. This level playing field allows them to compete with larger brands and reach a wider audience without the high costs associated with traditional marketing methods.
 

Can you discuss the importance of ethical sourcing and fair-trade practices in the handmade products industry?

Ethical sourcing and fair-trade practices play a crucial role in the handmade products industry for several reasons. Firstly, they ensure that artisans and craftsmen receive fair compensation for their work, which is essential for supporting sustainable livelihoods and empowering communities. Fair-trade practices also promote social equity by advocating for safe working conditions, fair wages, and non-discriminatory employment practices, fostering a more inclusive and equitable industry.
Additionally, ethical sourcing and fair-trade practices promote environmental sustainability by encouraging responsible production methods, sustainable use of natural resources, and minimising negative environmental impacts. This is particularly important in preserving traditional crafts that often rely on natural materials and traditional techniques.
Moreover, consumers are increasingly conscious of the ethical and environmental implications of their purchasing decisions. Ethical sourcing and fair-trade certifications provide assurance to consumers that the products they are buying are produced in a socially and environmentally responsible manner, aligning with their values and ethical standards.
Handmade items often carry the legacy of family traditions and craftsmanship. Ensuring fairness and ethics in this process is crucial, as it not only sustains the livelihoods of artisans but also preserves the heritage for future generations. Without a commitment to fairness and ethics, the continuity of these traditions and the completion of generational legacies could be at risk.

What role do you believe technology plays in preserving and promoting traditional craftsmanship in the modern era?

Technology plays a pivotal role in preserving and promoting traditional craftsmanship in the modern era by offering innovative tools and platforms that support artisans and craftsmen in various ways. Firstly, technology provides access to digital platforms and e-commerce solutions, enabling artisans to showcase their products to a global audience and reach new markets that were previously inaccessible. This increased visibility not only promotes traditional craftsmanship but also creates economic opportunities for artisans, supporting sustainable livelihoods.
Secondly, technology facilitates skill development and knowledge sharing through online resources, tutorials, and digital training programmes. Artisans can access information, learn new techniques, and collaborate with experts or fellow artisans, enhancing their craftsmanship and preserving traditional skills for future generations.
Additionally, technology aids in production processes by introducing advanced tools and equipment that improve efficiency, quality, and consistency while maintaining the authenticity of handmade products. This includes digital design software, 3D printing, and automated machinery that complement traditional techniques and enhance productivity without compromising on craftsmanship.
Furthermore, technology plays a role in sustainability by promoting eco-friendly practices, resource optimisation, and waste reduction in artisanal production. This aligns with consumer preferences for ethically and environmentally conscious products, further promoting the value and appeal of traditional craftsmanship in the modern marketplace.
Consumers are more educated and connected to their roots these days, thanks to technology. So, they can see artisans and their work and connect with the handmade product before buying it.

In your opinion, what are the key factors that contribute to the success of a brand or business specialising in handmade products in today’s competitive market?

The success of a brand specialising in handmade products in today’s competitive market hinges on several key factors. These include a steadfast commitment to authenticity and quality, a compelling brand identity that resonates with consumers, ethical sourcing and sustainable practices, a strong digital presence for effective marketing and customer engagement, a focus on delivering exceptional customer experiences, continuous innovation and adaptability to market trends, and strategic collaborations and partnerships to expand reach and create unique offerings. By prioritising these factors and maintaining a customer-centric approach, a handmade product brand can thrive, differentiate itself, and build lasting success in the modern marketplace.

Can you share the inspiration behind starting Chowkhat?

Chowkhat was inspired by a commitment to several principles: affordability, comfortability, preserving the original art of India, promoting handmade products, and supporting local artisans. We recognised the importance of these values in today’s regional and global market and saw an opportunity to create a brand that embodies them. By offering affordable yet high-quality products, prioritising comfort in design and materials, showcasing the intricate beauty of original Indian handmade pieces, and championing the skill and artistry of local artisans, Chowkhat aims to carve out a unique space in the industry. This vision not only drives the brand forward but also resonates with customers who share these values and appreciate the authenticity and craftsmanship behind each product. Chowkhat sources a range of authentic Indian handmade pieces, including handblock, hand painted textiles, and more, highlighting its commitment to diverse traditional crafts and artisanal excellence.

How do you select the artisans and communities to collaborate with for your handmade products?

We carefully select artisans and communities with a particular focus on preserving the authenticity. We and our team assess artisans based on their skill level, commitment to traditional techniques, and ethical practices, ensuring fair wages and safe working conditions. Chowkhat prioritises partnerships that have a positive impact on the local community, supporting initiatives for skill development and cultural preservation. We go to the place of origin to source authentic handmade pieces, such as handblock from Bagru, Jaipur, and Chikankari from Lucknow. We aim to empower local artisans by directly collaborating with them and ensuring the region flourishes. Chowkhat does not make artisans leave their city; We go to artisans and get their products to sell worldwide. By fostering meaningful collaborations, Chowkhat not only produces high-quality products but also contributes to the empowerment of local artisans.

Could you walk us through the process of how the company sources its materials and crafts its products?

Chowkhat meticulously sources its materials from local artisans across India, emphasising the use of authentic ‘Made in India’ products. We acquire original teak wood from Jaipur for our block prints, ensuring durability and quality in our intricate designs. Threads sourced from Lucknow are specifically chosen for Chikankari embroidery, known for its delicate detailing. The crafting process is guided by skilled artisans who uphold traditional techniques, resulting in high-quality, culturally rich products.

Could you elaborate on the challenges faced by artisans in towns like Lucknow, and how Chowkhat supports them?

Artisans in towns like Lucknow and Bagru face several challenges, including financial instability and the encroachment of machinery into traditional crafts. Many artisans struggle to earn a sustainable income due to fluctuating demand, limited access to markets, and middlemen who often exploit their labour. Additionally, the rise of mechanised production threatens the authenticity and uniqueness of handmade crafts, leading to a decline in traditional craftsmanship and a loss of cultural heritage.
Chowkhat addresses these challenges by providing vital support to artisans in Lucknow. Financial support is a key aspect, as Chowkhat ensures fair compensation for artisans, offering them stable incomes that enable them to support themselves and their families. Moreover, Chowkhat is committed to preserving the integrity of traditional craftsmanship by eradicating machinery work. Instead of relying on automated processes, Chowkhat celebrates the artistry and skill of artisans, prioritising handmade techniques that have been passed down through generations. This not only maintains the authenticity and uniqueness of Chikankari embroidery but also ensures that artisans continue to hone their craft and keep cultural traditions alive.
Furthermore, Chowkhat’s approach has a broader impact on the industry. By providing a platform and audience for artisans, Chowkhat helps bridge the gap between traditional crafts and modern markets. Previously, products were often priced beyond the reach of many, limiting the market and causing financial strain on artisans. Chowkhat’s efforts to offer affordable yet high-quality products make traditional crafts accessible to a wider audience, creating sustainable demand and improving the livelihoods of artisans. This shift also alleviates the issue of overworked artisans, as increased demand allows for a more balanced workload and fair compensation for their labour.
Through these efforts, Chowkhat not only supports artisans financially but also empowers them to preserve their heritage and thrive in an increasingly competitive market.

What steps does Chowkhat take to ensure fair wages and working conditions for the artisans involved in your production process?

Chowkhat takes several steps to ensure fair wages and working conditions for the artisans involved in its production process. Firstly, Chowkhat provides a fair and realistic timeline for manufacturing products, eliminating any undue pressure on the artisans that could impact the quality of their work. The company ensures that artisans are not overworked by implementing a strict policy of no work beyond the hours of 9 to 6, promoting a healthy work-life balance.
Additionally, Chowkhat is committed to paying artisans above the market price for their craftsmanship. This not only acknowledges the value of their skills but also provides them with a sustainable income that reflects the effort and artistry they put into each product. By offering fair wages and reasonable working conditions, Chowkhat fosters a positive and supportive environment for artisans, empowering them to focus on their craft and deliver exceptional results.

How can consumers differentiate between authentic handmade products and mass-produced items marketed as handmade?

Consumers can differentiate between authentic handmade products and mass-produced items marketed as handmade by being well-informed and paying attention to certain details. Chowkhat is actively working to educate people on these differences, making it easier for consumers to make informed choices.
One way to distinguish between authentic and mass-produced handmade products is by conducting a simple online search. Using platforms like Google, consumers can find information and resources that highlight the key differences. For instance, many brands claim to sell authentic Chikankari, but a closer look often reveals that they are selling fake or mass-produced versions. By conducting a quick search, consumers can access articles, reviews, and guides that help them understand what to look for in authentic handmade products.
Additionally, consumers should examine the product itself. In the case of Chikankari, checking the backside of the fabric can reveal important clues. Authentic handmade Chikankari often shows intricately stitched patterns on the backside, indicative of skilled handiwork. On the other hand, mass-produced items may lack this level of detail and craftsmanship.
Chowkhat also provides informational content to help consumers differentiate between authentic handmade products and mass-produced ones. By sharing insights about the craftsmanship, materials used, and traditional techniques, Chowkhat empowers consumers to make informed decisions and appreciate the value of authentic handmade products.

Can you tell us about the journey of expanding your product range beyond Chikankari to include other traditional Indian art forms?

Expanding our product range beyond Chikankari to include other traditional Indian art forms has been an exciting journey for Chowkhat. We have delved into the intricacies of art forms like the Jaipuriya Collection, hand painted work, mirror work, mukesh work and more, infusing them into a variety of apparel such as sarees, suits, co-ord sets, and long and short kurtis. This expansion reflects our commitment to celebrating India’s diverse cultural heritage through our products. We have collaborated closely with skilled artisans and sourced premium materials to ensure each piece embodies authenticity and craftsmanship. This endeavour not only broadens our offerings but also allows us to showcase the beauty and richness of different Indian art forms, creating unique and culturally significant fashion statements for our customers.

How does Chowkhat incorporate eco-conscious practices into its business operations and product offerings?

At Chowkhat, we are deeply committed to incorporating eco-conscious practices into our business operations and product offerings. One of the keyways we do this is through our eco-friendly packaging, where we completely avoid the use of plastic. Instead, we opt for sustainable packaging materials that are biodegradable or recyclable, reducing our environmental footprint.
In addition to our packaging practices, we also focus on sourcing sustainable and environmentally friendly materials for our products. This includes using organic fabrics, natural dyes, and supporting ethical and eco-friendly production processes.
The focus on handmade and handcrafted products inherently promotes sustainability. These items are typically produced in low batches locally, resulting in less wastage compared to fast fashion, which often produces thousands of pieces in a single month.
One of Chowkhat’s eco-friendly practices is the use of hand blocks made from wood, which are used multiple times before being discarded. This approach reduces waste and promotes resource efficiency in the production process. Additionally, Chowkhat employs eco-friendly processes such as using natural dyes, which are not only better for the environment but also produce vibrant and unique colours.
Furthermore, Chowkhat implements water conservation measures by reusing water for purposes like watering plants. This reduces water wastage and minimises the environmental impact of its operations. The use of natural substances such as indigo and alum in the production process further enhances the eco-friendly aspect of Chowkhat’s products.

How do you innovate in terms of product design, technology, or customer experience?

Chowkhat innovates across multiple aspects to enhance its product design, technology integration, and customer experience. In terms of product design, the company stays updated with new trends while maintaining a focus on timeless elegance. Both Chikankari and handblock designs are crafted to embody simplicity yet elegance, ensuring that they remain relevant and stylish over time.
In terms of technology, Chowkhat’s website is designed to be user-friendly, providing a seamless browsing and shopping experience for customers. The company also leverages social media platforms like Instagram, using features such as reels to showcase products and engage with customers effectively. This use of technology not only improves customer experience but also expands Chowkhat’s reach to a wider audience.
Chowkhat is dedicated to continuous innovation in improving customer experience. The company has a dedicated team focused on enhancing every aspect of the customer journey, from browsing products to after-sales support. Customer queries and issues are promptly addressed through online channels, calls, and emails, ensuring a high level of satisfaction and trust among customers.

What steps does Chowkhat take to maintain the authenticity of the handmade products it sells?

Chowkhat upholds the authenticity of its handmade products through a two-fold approach. Firstly, we establish direct partnerships with local artisans, ensuring that every piece is crafted authentically and reflects the true essence of traditional Indian art forms. Secondly, our dedicated checking team meticulously verifies each product to guarantee its handmade nature, maintaining our high standards of quality and authenticity. These measures not only preserve the rich heritage of craftsmanship but also provide our customers with genuine and ethically sourced handmade items that embody the essence of Indian artistry.

Looking ahead, what are Chowkhat’s plans for further expansion and the introduction of new handmade products in the future?

Chowkhat’s vision for the future includes a focus on expanding its range of handcrafted products and reaching a larger audience through both online and offline channels. Our company plans to introduce new handmade products such as Madhubani and Kantha fabrics, showcasing the rich diversity of Indian craftsmanship. By adding these traditional art forms to our platform, Chowkhat aims to offer customers a wider selection of unique and culturally significant pieces.
In terms of expansion, we are looking to diversify Chowkhat’s handmade categories to cater to different tastes and preferences. This expansion strategy is not only aimed at attracting a larger audience but also at promoting the beauty and artistry of various Indian handicrafts. Additionally, Chowkhat plans to open offline stores to provide customers with a more immersive shopping experience and further establish its presence in the retail landscape.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 06/05/2024

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.