About the author:
Renato Palmi has a Masters Degree in Economic Development from the University of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. He also has a Diploma in Business Marketing and Production Management. His research and MA focused primary on the clothing, textile and fashion sectors and he wishes to continue with such research and will welcome any opportunities from international research institutions, fashion colleges etc to do further research leading to a PhD in these fields or research on their behalf on South Africa's clothing and fashion sector. Renato also lectures on fair and ethical trade within the clothing industry and lectures on branding, marketing and business development to fashion design students
Contact details:
PO Box 52006, Berea Road 4007, Durban, KZN, South Africa, E-mail: yakshack@iafrica.com "
Abstract
A fundamental change in the global and textile industries took place on 1 January 2005, when the global quantitative quotas were abolished. International retail buyers are now able to reduce the number of their international suppliers, and can act on a preference to buy from suppliers anywhere in the world, offering the cheapest price on international orders.
South Africa had been experiencing growth in cheaper imports, mostly at the lower end of the market, since 1994 when the political arena in South Africa changed, resulting in a reduction of its tariffs faster than the World Trade Organisation required. The post-2005 environment has seen a rapid increase in imports into South Africa, predominantly from Asia. This has resulted in numerous South African firms in the clothing and textile industries having to reduce their labour, outsource part of their production, or close down altogether, due to their inability to compete with their Asian counterparts.
One area of the clothing and textile industries in South Africa that has the potential to assist in the sustainability of these industries is the development and growth of South African design content. Relatively new to South Africa is the growth in and recognition of South African fashion designers entering the market, which has resulted in the heightened visibility and activity of numerous inter-related industries, all servicing South African fashion, such as: model agencies, hair-stylists, make-up artists, the fashion media, fashion events and private boutiques.
This study explores the experiences of and problems faced by South African designers in producing garments, meeting the price demanded by consumers, and being competitive in the current context of the local market that is dominated by the major retail chains. However, as this research paper will show, numerous South African designers are managing in different ways to succeed and in so doing, have created viable and successful design operations in a very competitive industry.
Chapter Five: The South African Fashion Design Market | 48 |
5.1 Fashion Design in South Africa 5.2 The Creation of Fashion Events 5.3 Fashion Weeks and Developmental Projects 5.4 China's Entry into High-End Fashion Design |
48 50 51 54 |
Chapter Six: The Value Chain | 56 |
6.1 Introducing the Value Chain 6.2 Upgrading and Governance 6.3 Buyer-driven Value Chain 6.4 The Agile Value Chain 6.5 Designers and the Value Chain |
56 57 58 60 61 |
Chapter Seven: Methodology of the Study | 65 |
7.1 Introduction 7.2 Focus of the Study 7.3 Research Questions 7.4 The Identification of Participants 7.5 Limitations of the Study |
65 65 66 67 70 |
Chapter Eight: The Designers: Experiences and Comments | 72 |
8.1 Introducing the Designers 8.2 Success Factors 8.3 Training and Establishing Independence 8.4 Designer Value Chains 8.5 Suppliers 8.6 Production 8.7 The Designers and the Informal Economy 8.8 Experiences and Views on Competition 8.9 Views on Consumer Behaviour 8.10 Comments on the Clothing Industry in South Africa 8.11 The Role of Fashion Events 8.12 Comments on the Fashion Events 8.13 The Role of the Internet 8.14 Private Boutiques 8.15 Retail Chain Stores |
72 79 81 83 84 86 86 88 90 91 93 96 99 100 104 |
Chapter Nine: Conclusion and Policy Recommendations | 107 |
9.1 Conclusion | 107 |
Policy Recommendations | |
9.2 Suppliers 110 9.3 Manufacturing 110 9.4 Government and Skills Upgrading 111 9.5 Cluster Initiatives 112 9.6 The Johannesburg Fashion Cluster 112 9.7 New Fashion Clusters in South Africa 113 9.8 The Business of Fashion 114 9.9 Retail Space 115 9.10 Consumer Support 116 |
110 110 111 112 112 113 114 115 116 |
Appendix One: Letter to the media Appendix Two: Micro Case Study on Rugby Clothing Appendix Three: Case Study of political fashion Appendix Four: Interview List Appendix Five: Article in Business Report |
118 119 121 122 123 |
References | 126 |
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