Textile Crafts of Gujarat - A Rich Cultural Heritage

Introduction

The state of Gujarat in India, popularly known as the Manchester Of the East, has a rich heritage of textile crafts. The arid region of Kutchh is the richest in the state in terms of cultural heritage. However, there are several other parts of the state which specialize in some form of textile craft or the other. In this article, we have outlined some of the traditional textile crafts of this beautiful state and have attempted to analyze the scope of these crafts.

Bandhni

The craft of Tie & Dye, typically known as Bandhni or Bandhej in Gujarat is practiced in several areas of the state. The term Bandhni is derived from the Hindi word Bandhan, this means tying. Bandhni from Jamnagar, Anjar and Bhuj are particularly renowned. The Bandhnis from these areas differ from those of other regions in terms of designs and craftsmanship. In Jamnagar, Bandhni work is done on a special type of silky material. Initially, Bandhni work was done only on sarees. Later on, Bandhni salwar kameezes began to be produced. Nowadays, there are many items available in Bandhni, ranging from blouses and scarves to bedsheets and ties. Usually, Bandhni is done in bright colors such as red, green and black. Handmade colors were used earlier; but the scenario has changed now. The traditional patterns used in Bandhnis are dots, squares, waves and stripes. Bandhni is generally done on cotton, silk or satin material. The communities of Muslim Khatris in Kutchh have been doing Bandhni work since generations.

Gujarati sarees

There are different types of sarees that Gujarat is famous for. One of them is the Gharchola, which is woven with silk and zari threads. Bandhni work is then done on them or they are block-printed. Gharcholas are traditionally used as wedding sarees. The saree is divided into squares by white bandhni dots or stripes of zari. The number of squares are usually in multiples of 9, 12 or 52. Motifs like elephants, parrots, flowers and dancing girls are generally found in each compartment.

The Patola saree produced in Patan, North Gujarat, is another type of saree that is well known. These sarees are handwoven and involve traditional patterns such as leaves, flowers, parrots and dancing girls. Patolas are generally produced in the red color with white, dark green and yellow patterns. Patola sarees are also considered to be wedding sarees. Simple traditional looms are used for weaving and natural dyes made from vegetable extracts and other natural colors are made use of. These colors are fast and do not fade easily. In fact, there is a Gujarati saying The Patola will tear, but the color will not fade.

Yet another type of saree from Gujarat that is famous is the Tanchoi saree. The fabric of this saree is woven in Surat in Gujarat. In these sarees, traditional motifs such as peacocks and other birds, flowers and hunting scenes are generally observed.

The Gujarati brocade saree is also one of the famous sarees from Gujarat. In this saree, designs are woven in colored silk on a golden background. Motifs such as leaves, flowers, fruits, birds, figures of dancing women and women waving fans are woven in such sarees. These sarees are highly expensive as they are exquisitely woven. However, such sarees are gradually becoming extinct. These sarees are usually produced in Mehsana, Jamnagar and Dolka

Zari

Surat in Gujarat is one of the oldest and the largest producers of zari. It is one of the major centres for the production of both gold and silver zari. This zari is utilized in making decorative borders, shoes, evening bags and many other items.

Crotchet

Jamnagar in the state of Gujarat is one of the oldest centres for crotchet lace work, which is done by the women of the Vohra community. These women make several crotchet items for household use. These items are usually made in black, brown and white colors.

The art of �Gudri�

Women in most of the villages in Gujarat are well versed in the art of Gudri. Several layers of cloth are stitched together by hand. Running stitches are used. The finished pieces can be used as mats to sit on or as blankets.

Mashru

Gujarat is also famous for its Mashru fabric, which is a blend of silk and cotton. It is weaved in such a way that the cotton comes in contact with the skin while the silk remains on the surface. This fabric was initially used by Muslims, who were not allowed to wear pure silk. Mashru is produced in many places in India, but Mashru from Gujarat has bold patterns and colors which lend it a certain uniqueness. In todays times, however, this fabric has been replaced by cheap quality products that look similar.

Prints of Gujarat

Certain printing techniques of Gujarat are very famous. One of them is the Ajrakh technique, which is undertaken by the Khatri community of Gujarat. Other well-known printing techniques of Gujarat are the Sodagiri prints of Paithapur and the Mata Ni Pachedi prints produced by the Vaghri community priests as a mark of reverence to their goddess. Rogan is a technique of printing undertaken in some villages of Kutchh. In this technique, printing is done by using thick, bright-colored pastes and spreading them on fabric by using the fingers. Fabric printed using Rogan technique is generally used for making tablecloths, curtains and borders for skirts. However, this art is on the verge of becoming extinct.

Embroidery styles of Gujarat

There are several embroidery techniques of Gujarat that are very famous. Different communities in Gujarat have their own distinct style of embroidery. The Mochi community in Gujarat specializes in chain-stitch embroidery on leather and they make attractive embroidered leather shoes. These shoes are very much in demand in the modern fashion world. Animals as well as Persian and Mughal motifs feature prominently in their embroidery. The Ahir and Rabari communities specialize in embroidery using vibrantly colored threads and mirrors on black fabric and other dark-colored surfaces.

The Kathi community of Saurashtra specializes in a form of embroidery which is popularly known as Kathi embroidery. Another form of embroidery commonly done by the Mochi community is bead work. The Jats of Kutchh use beads, mirrors and colorful threads to create beautiful designs on fabric. This type of embroidery is popularly known as Heer Bharat. The women of the Lohana community in Banni have their own unique style of embroidery. The Mutwa community living in Banni has perfected almost all the styles of embroidery. These forms of embroidery have been passed on from generation to generation. The girls in these communities are taught embroidery at a very early age by their mothers and usually, they embroider their own wedding dresses. Several villages of Gujarat excel in producing beautiful, embroidered shawls.

Applique or patchwork

Women from the Darji (tailor) community in Saurashtra specialize in the art of appliqu, which is commonly known as patch work. Colored and patterned fabric is cut into different shapes and sewn on to a background fabric. Sarees, salwar kameezes, curtains, bed spreads and wall hangings can be made using this technique.

Other embroidered items

Apart from embroidered fabrics, the village women of Gujarat have also started making other items. Beautiful embroidered Torans grace the doors of houses in Gujarati villages. Embroidered square pieces of fabric called Chaklas are used to make pillow covers. Embroidered wall hangings called Bhitiya in Gujarati is very much in demand now. Apart from home decorations, various Gujarati communities also excel in making decorations for their cattle such as embroidered horn and forehead covers for animals, exquisite saddles and neck decorations. Embroidered patches of fabric in various colors are also made, which can easily be stitched on to any dress. Embroidered decorations for palanquins are also produced.

Other specialized crafts

Apart from textile crafts, the villages of Gujarat specialize in many other crafts such as woodwork, silver work, making lacquerware and pottery.

Gujarati crafts in international markets

Embroidered products from Gujarat and other craft items hold great value abroad. The Victoria and Albert (V&A) Museum in London displays around 10000 Indian textiles.

Conclusion

It is evident that the state of Gujarat is very rich in terms of various crafts. The sad part is that most of these crafts are dying. Most of the craftsmen possessing extraordinary skills are leading a life of misery and poverty and are turning to other occupations to earn their daily bread, which is pushing these crafts further in the direction of extinction. To preserve this rich cultural heritage, awareness needs to be created about these crafts and these products need to be marketed in the right manner.