Building the perfect garment is like putting an elaborate puzzle together. Every piece contributes to the big picture, crafting a shirt that's sophisticated, savvy and very flattering.

But to truly appreciate fine tailoring, you need a bit of education. A Fashion Institute of Technology-trained designer and shirt maker, Janine Giorgenti offers some of the fundamentals:

-- Color: Big retailers offer shirts in standard whites or cool blues, but these shades don't suit everyone. Men with yellow-based skin tones look sallow in 'cool' colors, while the opposite is true for men with 'cool' skin tones. The ideal solution is to to select a shirt fabric that complements your complexion. The online color selector http://www.bestcustomshirt.com/mp.asp can help you pinpoint your ideal colors.

--Ties: Based on the same color themes, men with warm skin tones look best with brick reds, teals and golds and earth tones, while those with cool tones glow in cool blues, greens, lavenders, pinks or true reds. Janine believes a well-selected tie can overcome a multitude of problems. "The tie is a focal point; it zeros in on the face, just like an arrow pointing to it," says Janine.

-- Neck and Throat: Put on the shirt, button the collar, and insert too fingers at the neck to test the fit. There should be just enough give to accommodate your digits. If your neck feels pinched, it's too tight; if neckline craters or poufs, it's too big. Tight necklines create the impression of excess weight, while too-big necks can make the wearer look small, scrawny and unattractive.

--Collar placement: The collar should sit comfortably at the nape of the neck, just beneath the jaw. Stay away from shorts with collars that push up or necks that ride too low.

-- Collar style: Use the right shape collar to balance the head and neck, minimizing any flaws and accentuating advantages. A too-big collar on a small person can dwarf the face, while a tiny collar on a man with a broad head a neck can make him look like he's playing dress-up in Daddy's clothes. Men with round, square or broad faces should avoid spread collars, which tend to widen the face, while men with long, thin faces should stay away from close together collar points.

--Shoulders: The 't' shape of the modern men's shirt is based on the kimono. When you extend your arms, the shoulder should fall just beyond the joint. Observes Janine, "shirts are not meant to fit like straightjackets; they're supposed to allow movement by draping one-half to three-quarters of an inch beyond your natural shoulder." Also, make sure you can pinch roughly an inch of extra fabric under the arm to ensure ease of movement.

--Sleeve length: A well-constructed sleeve should reach to the point where your hand begins to flare out. Shorter than that, and you'll have trouble bending your arm. Longer sleeves will make you appear to swim in your shirt.

--Chest and body: Shirts should skim the body without hugging it too tightly, providing enough extra fabric to allow unencumbered movement. For the average shirt wearer, than translates to six or seven inches of 'give' around the chest, depending on body type. Janine points out, though, that chest size alone doesn't necessarily dictate how extra material is required. "If I have a customer with a 48 chest or bigger, I'll generally add eight inches of fabric, but if I know he's a person of size, I might add nine. That becomes apparent when you look at all the measurements together," explains Janine. Be aware, too, that a pocket is meant to sit squarely on the chest. If it rides too high or drops near the waist it looks out of place.

--Shirttails: The average shirt requires 32 inches of vertical length remain tucked in, without bagging excessively. However, the optimum length for any individual varies according to his physique. High-waisted men need less vertical fabric, while those with lower-set waists need more. Janine also figures each buyer's overall height in calculating the way a shirt's tail will fall.

--Cuffs: The best-looking cuffs extend roughly a quarter-inch beyond the jacket. "It's called 'showing the linen,'" explains Janine, "and it's a look you see at high-end stores." She builds her custom shirts with extra width on the watch-wearing arm. "I'll always ask a man about the hand he wears the watch on, but also the kind of watch he wears, to figure out how much extra fabric is needed for the cuff to ride comfortably over it," explains Janine. She suggests French cuffs for more formal occasions and button cuffs for a business casual look.

--Monograms: Because monograms confer status, Janine counsels customers to think twice about where they want a monogram and what message they hope to convey. Monograms on the pocket are the most common, while waist monograms serve rarified occasions. A monogram can also be found on a pocket-less shirt at the chest, or on the cuff. .

Janine considers a number of different measurements when she builds her shirts. But she finds it helpful to understand the individual, too. Knowing about a man's profession, his history and his aspirations help Janine to tailor the overall look even more accurately. But whether or not a man selects www.bestcustomshirt.com, she believes that every man should understand good fit.

"Every man deserves to look great.and making sure they do is my mission," she smiles.