Technology and its impacts on textile industry

INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE INDUSTRY:

Textiles are an important source of reference for the cultural studies because of their universality. Textiles have always draped the body, whether human/deities/animal, floor and furniture. Unlike stone, clay, metal etc. textiles were traditionally made from biodegradable materials. Cotton (natural cellulose fiber), silk, wool (natural protein fibers) were three main materials for textiles, apart from bast and leaf fibers. Initially very simple technologies were used for making the textiles. The most basic skill involved spinning the fiber into yarn and then changes it to fabric by a process called weaving. The implements used for weaving and spinning were and in many parts of India still continue to be of biodegradable materials like wood .There is exist a very scant reference of the fabric making skills in the archaeological excavations. Along with the tools of their manufacture, fabric materials have long degraded in our tropical climate.

Textiles consist of fibers, yarns, fabrics and finishes. Each of these stages has a variety of processes involved to reach the next stage. Hand and feet have even today remained the tools for various processes supported by materials like wood, terracotta, metal, yarns, beads, semiprecious stones, colors etc. The concept of the Indian textile technologies is intricately related to both, the manufacture and decoration. This may therefore be researched in a chronological framework starting from archaeological past to the contemporary times. Regional developments have been very typical to certain styles of manufacture and decorations in textiles.

VII TESTING

a. Testing & quality monitoring equipments Cotton Contamination Analyzer

Fibre neps, trash particles and seed-coat fragments are visible foreign matters in cotton. These foreign matters affect yarn & fabric appearance and reduce the efficiency of machines. In order to analyze these contaminations, This analyzer consists of micro card that converts the raw cotton into thin uniform web without removing impurities, is also scanned by CCD Camera and processed by imaging system to classify undesirable particles in terms of their size and number. This information will provide vital feedback in upgrading cotton material, efficiency and quality in blow room and carding processes.




b. Design and Development of Pilling Tester using Digital Image Processing (DIP) Technology

The technology for developing it from IIT Delhi to develop a digital image processing based pilling tester for objective evaluation of pilling instead of subjective and visual comparison. After the successful development it is expected that international standards like BS, ASTM, DIN and IS will incorporate the development as new standard for evaluation of pilling.

The main function of Pilling Tester is to test the pilling (hair ball) characteristic of fabric and knit fabric cloths. Simulating the condition of when weaving materials are worn, it will have the appearance of lint. Rolling the specimen around a rubber tube and turning in a winding box for a period of time, it is then compared to a standard picture to determine its grade. Test results are usually determined after comparing with standard pictures, the average of four tests per specimen.

But this development involves conversion of pilled fabric sample to digital image and stored in a memory by the image acquisition element. This image will be processed to obtain the various parameters like no. of pills, total pilled area, mean pill area and no. of pills per unit area.

c. Textile testing equipments for strength testing and trash analysis

Technology/Process Description:

MAG provides complete solutions for instrumental analysis. It has more than 65 products covering all sectors of the textile industry. Its manufacturing facility is backed up with hybrid shop floor machines and spider networked procurement. Mag R&D division is well equipped to design, develop and produce not only the regular type of instruments but also tailor made equipments and software to specific need of customers. Company focuses on catering the textile industry with testing solutions rather than mere testing instruments with the help of latest microcomputer technology.

Salient Features:

It is proposed to develop rapier and air-jet loom along with ancillaries like heavy-duty dobby, jacquard & color selector. The other details are as follows:

Rapier: Double rapier, 76" Width, 250 RPM with Tappet, 8 colors Weft, Positive Tappet.

•Production is about 100 % higher than power loom
•Cost will be about 40 % of imported looms
•95-98 % fabric realization can be achieved
•5 times more labour productivity than plain power loom
•30 % less space requirement than power loom
•With added value addition it is easy to maintain
•Versatile to work with any fabric and weaver friendly
•Unit cost of the machine will be Rs. 4 Lakhs

Air-Jet: 76" width, 350 rpm, Positive Cam shedding, Single Color

•Production is about 200 % higher than power loom
•Cost will be about 40 % of imported looms and good import substitute
•95-98 % fabric realization can be achieved as against 80-85 % in power loom
•10 times more labour productivity than plain power loom`
•30 % less space requirement than power loom
•Unit cost of the machine will be Rs. 4 Lakhs

Dobby: 16 & 24 Jacks and Jacquard: 1200 hooks

•Pick finding system to be introduced.
•Dobby and Jacquards are only 20-30 % cost of imported items
•More value addition due to high design capacity with 1200 hooks
•Capable of running at higher speed.
At present the slow speed model rapier loom is successfully developed and its performance is evaluated in mills. Now the company is developing high-speed rapier loom and their ancillaries.

VI PROCESSING

Designs, development and manufacture of continuous bleaching range:

Bleaching consists of cleaning, removing dirt, natural oils, brining out inherent luster of fibers, swelling of fibers fur softness and absorbency. But all the bleaching process is carried out batch wise and thus uniformity in fabric preparation become difficult to attain. The present trend is to have long length fabric well prepared during earlier stages of processing so that final dyes or printed fabric or even full white material is of high quality. The continuous bleaching range is thus becomes highly useful in meeting these demands.

The development under this project integrates all stages of bleaching viz. desizing, washing and chemical application for bleaching and neutralization. Hence the process would over by 2 hrs against 36 hrs of batch process. Automatic chemical dosing system reduced the dwell time as well as the dependence on supervising. One full range has been manufactured and is under observation for performance evaluation.

Technology/Product Specifications:

1. TRASH ANALYZER

•It is used to determine the percentage of lint, trash, dust and microdots in a sample, which may be raw cotton, blow room lap or card sliver.
•50 / 100 gram samples at the opening rate of 16 Grams lint per minute.
•It is based on carding principle with separate suction system for efficient separation of lint and non-lint contents.
•Its compact, aerodynamic shape, silent operation and nonpolluting nature boosts laboratory environment.
•Individual spring loaded and segmented finger type feeder for better grip, results in better opening.
•State-of-art microcomputer controlled technology enables digital monitor based user friendly operating system.
•Solid-state control circuitry to enhance feasibility and operator safety.

2. FIBER FINENESS TESTER

•Fiber fineness Iis exactly measured in terms of micronaire value.
•Measuring range: 2.2 to 8.0 micronaire from 3.24 / 5 grams of sample.
•This is based on airflow principle, measured by rotometer.
•Micro-filtered airflow and inbuilt calibration system ensures accuracy in results.
•Compact tabletop, portable design with auto ejection of tested sample.

3. FIBER BUNDLE STRENGTH TESTER

•Precise and simultaneous determination of strength and elongation of fiber bundle.
•Strength is measured from 2.0 to 7.0 kilograms and elongation range is up to 50%.
•It is based on constant rate of loading (CRL) principle, ranging between 1 kg /sec and 7 kg / sec.
•Proven concept, elegant design and assorted accessories make the test easier and quicker.

4. ELECTRIC LEA STRENGTH TESTER

•It is used for accurate determination of strength and elongation of lea skein.
•Testing can be up to 500 pounds in strength and up to 300mm in elongation.
•Sturdy steel fabricated construction and maintenance-free self-lubricated drive unit ensures silent, trouble-free and long life operation.
•It is wall mountable and works on Constant rate of extension (CRE) principle.
•It has 400 lbs capacity with 0.1 lbs resolution.
•Microprocessor based sold-state control circuitry with large digital fluorescent display ensures more flexibility.
•It has computer connectivity for data manipulation

5. MULTI COUNT BALANCE

•It determines yarn count, hank and GSM.
•It is based on proven precise aerial density measurement principle.
•Yarn count numbering system can be selected as Tex, Den, Tj, Nec, Nek, Nes, Nm, Nef and NSS in addition to 3 user defined units. Measurement of GSM for fabric, paper and board.
•Computer connectivity enables statistical and graphical reports.

6. ELECTRONIC YARN TWIST TESTER

•Accurate twist measurement of single, plied and OE yarn specimens.
•Direct TPI / TPM / TT results in digital display for selected gauge length, avoids manual calculations.
•Operating principle: Direct counting and single & multiple untwist-retwist methods.
•It incorporates unique tension mechanism suitable to test all kind of yarns.
•Silent and integrated motor operations with auto stop system for precise measurement.
•Pre-settable key parameters kept in cmos memory without battery power for increased durability.

7. MULTI STRENGTH MEASUREMENT

Usage: To determine various physical properties of fabrics & garments.
Capacity:
a) Load / Force: 50 / 250 / 500 Kilograms.
b) Jaw Separation: 0 to 600mm.
c) Traverse speed: 50 to 500mm per minute.

Constant rate of extension (CRE) principle.
Selectable force unit: Kilogram / Pound / Newton.
Selectable elongation unit: mm / inch / percentage.
Rugged type and ergonomically designed for extended life cycle.
State-of-art microcomputer controlled technology facilitates the following: -

a) Standalone testing without computer system
b) User-friendly menu driven operating system
c) Parameter setting flexibility through navigation keyboard

Separate calibration program makes quick and reliable calibration.
Specially made jaws/grips suitable for standard test methods.
Computer connectivity and special software facilitates statistical and graphical reports.
Software package consists of

1) Count Analysis :
* Count Type: English Count - NEC, Worsted Count-NeW, Denier, Tex, Dtex and Metric Count-Nm.
2) Strength Analysis :
* Auto selection of strength unit in pounds or kilograms
3) CSP Analysis (Least count and Strength):
* Auto, Manual, Auto count - Manual Strength and Manual count - Auto strength entry modes
4) GSM Analysis:
* Auto and Manual modes

Common Features:

*Auto and Manual entry modes.
* Statistical outputs: Mean, RH corrected, SD, CV%, Q95�, Min. & Max. Value.
* All reports for Daily, Weekly, Monthly, Frame wise, Within Bobbin,
* Between Bobbins, within Frame and Between Frames formats.
* Graphical outputs: Stroke diagram and Histogram.
* Long-term storage format.

Optional supplies:

Seam Slippage Module (ASTM D434 / 1683, BS 3320, IWSTM 117)
Single Yarn Strength Module (ASTM D2256 IS 1670)
Tear Test Module (ISO 13937-2, 3, 4, ASTM D2261 / 5587, BS 4303)
Button / Snap pull test (ASTM D4846) - USD
Peel bond strength (ASTM D2724)
Zipper strength (ASTM D2061)

8. PERSPIROMETER

•It is used to determine color fastness due to water and perspiration of textiles.
•It is complete stainless steel construction with separate loading weights for the respective standards.

9. FABRIC STIFFNESS TESTER

•It is used to determine the bending length, flexural rigidity and bending modulus of fabrics.
•It is supplied with specimen cutting template and graduated measuring scale.

•It is high temperature high pressure beaker-dyeing machine for dyeing fabric and yarn samples suitable for laboratory applications.
•Capacity: 250mlx12 beakers; 500mlx12 beakers; 1000mlx12 beakers.
•It is based on PID control algorithm for ramp & soak operation to replicate large quantity dyeing.
•It comprises digital process timer with agitated rotor motion and inching facility for easy loading / unloading of beakers.
•Inlet / drain tap and hinged lid interlocked with safety switch for operator flexibility.
•Rugged type, ergonomic design with full stainless steel construction.

11. SHRINKAGE TESTING MACHINE

•It is used to measure the dimensional changes in fabrics after laundering, dry cleaning etc..
•Template and shrinkage scale made up of transparent polymer plate to apply standard pressure on test specimen.
•Available models: 25x25, 35x35, 50x50centimeters and all-in-one size

VIII DYEING AND PRINTING:

Durable non-wovens can be dyed, printed and finished in much the same way as other textiles using the same type of equipment used to process traditional textiles. In most cases, however, the nonwovens structure may be composed of two or three different materials, adding to the product’s complexity.

Nonwovens are finished, laminated and coated to add value, creating products for many diverse applications ranging from specialty bedding and window treatments to furniture construction. Examples of end-uses include: medical fabrics; wipes; mattress pads; bedding products for incontinence protection; and window shades that feature antistatic, antiskid, waterproof, antimicrobial, or flame-retardant and/or breath ability properties.

IX FINISHING

A digital control system based solution, to eliminate skew and bow distortion generated during the fabric passage to the stenter automatically, has been developed. It’s dominant key features are highly sensitive solid-state powered detectors, intelligent signal processing to automatically adapting to various fabrics, automatic light intensity control and information distortion, ultra fast line speed related response to control signals etc. It is also provided with slit scanners, so that scanning and correction up to 320-degree angle is possible. Regardless of the fabric running speed, nature of fabric, it delivers perfect operation for speeds ranging from 10 to 250 mts/min. Weft deflection up to 32 degrees can be corrected. This system has been successfully evaluated with acrylic blankets, shirting and sittings. Four units have been exported to Egypt and nine were sold in India

USE OF COMPUTERS IN TEXTILE AND INDUSTRY

Cad is industry specific design system using computer as a tool. CAD is used to design anything from an aircraft to knitwear. Originally CAD was used in designing high precision machinery sloely it found its way in other industries also. In 1970's it made an entry in the textile and apparel industry. Most companies abroad have now integrated some form of CAD into their design and production process.

In fact, according to National Knitwear Association of US, of 228 Apparel manufacturers:

65% use CAD to create color ways
60% use CAD to create printed fabric design
48% use CAD to create merchandising presentation
41% use CAD to create Knitwear designs

Design choices and visual possibilities can be infinite if the designer is given the time and freedom to be creative and to experiment using the computer. Today in our country automation is not only used for substituting the labour, it is also adopted for improving quality and producing quantity in lesser time. However, a CAD system is only as good (or as bad) as the designer working on it. Computer only speeds up the process of say repeat making, color changing, motif manipulation etc. It is actually the CAM aspect of CAD that will help reduce lead time.

TYPES OF CAD SYSTEMS

a. TEXTILE DESIGN SYSTEM:

Woven textiles are used by designers and merchandisers for fabrics for home furnishing and to men-women-children wear. Most fabrics whether yarn dyes, plain weaves, jacquards or dobbies can be designed and infact are invariably used abroad using a CAD system for textiles. Similarly embroideries are also developed at CAD workstations.

b. KNITTED FABRICS:

Some systems specialize in knitwear production and final knitted design can be viewed on screen with indication of all stitch formation. For instance a CAD program will produce a pullover graph that will indicate information on amount of yarn needed by color for each piece. Another example of the new technology in the industries using a yarn scanner which is attached to the computer scans a thousand meters of yarn and then simulates a knitted/ woven fabric on-screen. This simulation will show how the fabric will look like if woven from that yarn.

c. PRINTED FABRICS:

The process involves use of computers in design, development and manipulation of motif. The motif can then be resized, recoloured, rotated or multiplied depending on the designer's goal. Textures and weave structures can be indicated so that printout either on paper or actual fabric looks very much the way the final product will look. The textile design system can show color ways in an instant rather than taking hours needed for hand painting. New systems are coming which have built-in software to match swatch color to screen color to printer color automatically i.e. what you see is what you get.

d. ILLUSTRATIONS/ SKETCH PAD SYSTEMS:

These are graphic programmes that allow the designer to use pen or stylus on electronic pad or tablet thereby creating freehand images which are then stored in the computer. The end product is no different from those sketches made on paper with pencil. They have additional advantage of improvement and manipulation. Different knit and weave simulations can be stored in a library and imposed over these sketches to show texture and dimensions.

e. TEXTURE MAPPING: 3D DRAPING SOFTWARE

This technology allows visualization of fabric on the body. Texture mapping is a process by which fabric can be draped over a form in a realistic way. The pattern of the cloth is contoured to match the form underneath it. The designer starts with an image of a model wearing a garment. Each section of the garment is outlined from seamline to seamline. Then a swatch of new fabric created in textile design system is laid over the area and the computer automatically fills in the area with new color or pattern. The result is the original silhouette worn by original model in a new fabric.

f. EMBROIDERY SYSTEMS

The designs used for embroidery can be incorporated on the fabric for making garment. For this special computerized embroidery machines are used. Designers can create their embroidery designs or motifs straight on the computer or can work with scanned images of existing designs. All they need to do is assign color and stitch to different parts of the design. This data is then fed into an embroidery machine with one or multiple heads for stitching.

CONCLUSION:

Modernization through automation may not be after all such an uphill task if the Indian industry has to do so. Therefore, there is a dire necessity for these sectors to push up our sleeves and get into action before our whole industry starts dwindling. The level of technology related to the automation of textile machinery has changed a lot and indigenous efforts are near about the technology of machines manufactured in industrially advanced countries. Substantial and sustained efforts to strengthen indigenous efforts and technological backup were made a today the major manufacturers supply modern machines.

Indian textile machinery manufactures are able to produce at competitive prices sophisticated machines (of higher speed and productions) provided technological support and economic and continuous demand is forthcoming. Microprocessors and computers gained pride of place in modern machines. Most of the latest technologies in automation are concentrating largely on making the new version more flexible, energy efficient and perfect. One can only hope and wish that the future changes will be for the better because the cry for existence during the ongoing battle is "Modernize or Perish".

Reference:

Books:

Textile testing
- P. Angappan & R. Gopalakrishnan
Manual of Textile Technology
- W. Klein
Process Control in Spinning
- Subramanian

Journal:
The Hindu Survey of Indian Industry 2007

Website:

http://www.indianscience.org/projects/t_pr_gupta_textile.shtml
http://www.textileworld.com
www.textileworldasia.com
www.brittanyusa.com/nice3.htm
www.iscc.org
www.google.com
http://www.dsir.gov.in/reports/ExpTechTNKL/Abs%20new/MAG.htm
www.rieter.com
www.techexchange.com

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TECHNOLOGY IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY:

Textile technology, once considered a handicraft, has become a highly sophisticated, scientific and engineering activity of new types of fibres and technologies. The field encompasses different areas of engineering such as mechanical, electrical, computer, chemical, instrumentation, electronic and structural engineering. Apparel and fashion technology, a part of textile technology has become an important activity for the designing, fashioning and marketing of garments. All this requires knowledge of latest technology and the present day textile-design students are poised to take up the challenge.

The knitwear and process sectors especially, are witnessing change in a big way.

The textile industry in India is one of the oldest industries. It provides direct employment to nearly thirty million people. Yarn exports in recent years have gone up from 485 thousand tones, (valued at Rs.586 billion) in 1997-98, to 554 thousand tones (valued at Rs. 667.4 billion) in 1999-2000. Textile fairs held every year showcase new technology and development that has taken place in the industry including weaving, knitting, testing, printing and dyeing.

Technical textiles offer an excellent opportunity not only for the revival of the Indian textile industry but also a new direction, new ways and means to sustain and thrive in the near future. An average of 4% growth in technical textiles is expected during the period from 1995-2005. It is expected to reach US$6 million by year 2005 from US$42 million in 1995.

Some of the machineries includes in various departments of Textile Industry such as:

•Blow room
•Carding
•Combing
•Weaving
•Bleaching
•Testing
•Finishing

And with help of Computers using Computer Aided Design

I BLOWROOM

The blow room is expected to provide smooth operation. Any malfunction of a cleaning machine can very quickly immobilize ten to twenty cards. A high level of reliability is thus one of the first priorities. Massive consequential costs can result from faulty material being produced in the blowroom. Such faults right at the beginning of the processing sequence must be avoided.

Every blow room machine puts additional strain on your fibres; consequently cleaning must be matched exactly to the raw material. In every cleaning process there is an interdependence of waste quantity, fibre damage and loss of sound fibre. Improved cleaning performance cannot be achieved by more beaters but only by increased intensity of the beaters. While higher roller speeds do result in more intensive cleaning, they also result in greater strain on the fibres. Waste and its composition can be optimally matched to the requirement of your spinning operations. You choose whether you want light or dark-coloured waste...

The highlights of pin roller are used as the first or only opening position. With microfibres a second opening position is required in principle. However, a bypass should be provided if the equipment will also be used for coarser fibres. At every further cleaning stage, there is an increased degree of opening the cotton, therefore the point density of the roller becomes increasingly finer (i.e. in the case of saw-tooth rollers, the population of the clothing increases). Rollers with a cutting angle of 10� are used for cotton; for man-made fibres and mixtures of cotton and man-made fibres, rollers with a cutting angle of 0� are used.

�Intensive opening in little flakes
�Consistent opening and better cleaning
�No impairment of fibres and less neps
�Conservation of fibre firmness and elasticity
�Deal adaptation to the manufacturing material

II CARDING:

The demands on the quality of the card sliver have been increasing continuously. The ring spinner wants to have as few neps as possible in the card sliver while preserving natural fibre properties such as length of fibre, firmness and elasticity. Fibre preservation, i.e. minimum shortening of the staple is of particular importance. In addition, rotor spinning requires a very pure sliver and low dust content because otherwise deposits build up in the rotor groove.

TREX System (TREX = Trash Extraction) improves fine cleaning by using additional extraction points in the operating area of the cylinder. With great reliability it removes trash, dust and short fibres. Combinations of carding and guide elements, which can take a wide variety of clothing rods, as well as the special arrangement of integrated mote knives, optimize the carding process to suit your requirements.

In the case of cards of the type C 4, C 50 and C 51, TREX elements can be installed in the pre- and post-carding zone. In the pre-carding zone the tufts are opened properly. In this way the card clothing’s are protected and treated gently. Fibre parcels which the licker-in conveys to the cylinder are broken up in this zone. Any trash particles still present can then be eliminated more efficiently by the flats. In the post-carding zone, the alignment of the fibres is improved by “final combing” or “fine carding”. This is also the zone where the highly bound micro dust is dispersed and removed.

In contrast to the usual mote knives used with the cylinder, the TREX uses a special guide element. This significantly improves the selection of trash and dust elimination. Waste composition is up to 15% trash, seed-coat fragments, fibre fragments and dust. The advantage for TREX is clearly evident in the type of fibres removed: 75% of them are short fibres. A reduction of up to 6% of short fibres can be achieved in the card silver and Up to 15% less imperfections in the yarn.

III COMBING:

The range of circular combs is characterized by a combination of time-tested and proven state-of-the-art solutions. The correct circular comb provides the basis for first-class fibre selection and thus economical production. Accurate graduation of the clothing, both in regard to population and depth of the clothing is characteristic for all types of circular combs. It offers you several types, both in relation to segment design and to work surface, irrespective of the raw material to be processed. You will be pleased to find that neps, snicks and nibs are things of the past. It full range of circular combs to meet all his combing needs, combing surface 90� and 111�, application range from short staple 1 inch up to 1 9/16 and combing nails to 22%.

�23% more combing area
With fibre staple length greater than 1 �”
�Up to 18% fewer thick places in yarn
�Up to 25% fewer neps in yarn
With fibre staple length less than 1 �”
�Up to 10% fewer neps in yarn

Short fibres, neps and trash are extracted from the back part of the fibre tufts. This completes the work of the circular comb to perfection. Top combs are available with a range of needle density to suit your individual combing noil requirement and the cotton is being processed or whatever combing quality is desired. Extremely tough, ideal hardening and excellent self-cleaning effect are additional arguments in favour of top combs.

IV SPINNING:

During the 1970s, there appeared to be a myriad of spinning systems, such as twistless spinning, self-twist spinning, fascinated yarns, composite yarns, wrap-spun yarns, pot spinning, continuously felted yarns; and the many possible variants in open-end spinning such as rotor, electrostatic, friction spinning, and vortex spinning (the original “Polish” system). At the same time, there were continued developments in ring spinning, with ventures into rotating ring and traveler systems, individual spindle drives, high draft systems, modified travelers, double roving spinning, and hybrid systems.

A look at today’s industry reveals that while some systems have established a successful but small niche — wrap spinning for fancy yarns, and friction spinning for specialty industrial markets — very few systems have survived. Indeed, this is also true of the manufacturers of these machines.

It represents the current offerings in spinning machines and their comparative spinning speeds. The number of spinning positions for the major technologies, together with their share of the spun yarn market. It is evident that, when judged from the perspective of the number of installed spindles, ring spinning is still the most dominant spinning system — there are about three times more spindles than installed rotors. If judgment is based on the quantity of yarn produced, it is clear that even though there is only one-third as many positions of rotors installed, rotor spinning produces three times more yarn than ring spinning.

a.Ring Spinning

The technology behind ring spinning has remained largely unchanged for many years, but there have been significant refinements. Changes, which on their own offered only slight advantages, provided the following synergies when combined:

•The introduction of longer frames reduced the relative costs of automatic doffing.
•The combination of spinning frame and winding (link winders) further enhanced the adoption of automation.
•The introduction of automatic doffing meant that doffing time was reduced and thus package (and ring) size was less critical.
•The introduction of splicing on the winder meant that yarn joins became less obtrusive — again offering the potential of smaller package.
•Smaller rings meant that for a limiting traveler velocity (40 meters per second [m/s]), higher rotational speeds (and hence twisting rates) could be achieved.

These combinations meant that the potential maximum speed of ring spinning was raised from about 15,000 to 25,000 revolutions per minute.

There also have been several other proposed developments that have met with mixed success.

Drafting systems: While double apron drafting dominates, the system can be tweaked to enable higher drafts. Recent exhibitions have featured machines operating at potential drafts of 70 to 100. The use of high drafts has significant impact on the economics of the total system.

Individual spindle drives: Several manufacturers demonstrated this possibility in the 1980s. While the concept offered advantages with respect to lower energy requirements, less noise and better control of speed, it suffered higher initial costs and bigger spindle gauge.

V WEAVING:

ITMA(Institute of Trade Mark Attorney’s) 2003 brought to weavers major technological advances that help them control their machines electronically via user-friendly interfaces, produce a broad range of woven fabrics, manufacture intricate jacquard designs at the speed of commodity fabric production, form leno fabrics faster, inspect fabrics on-loom, use optical and laser warp-break detection, reduce downtime by offering a higher level of automation, and perform quick style and warp beam changes.

The success of weaving and weaving preparation machinery makers at ITMA 2003 may be attributed to the realized advances that offer weavers low power consumption, flexibility and versatility while weaving at high speeds. Despite the absence of some weaving machine manufacturers, a significant number of machines were shown at ITMA. The weaving speed and rate of filling insertion (RFI) remained about the same as for machinery shown at ITMA ’99. Today, the cost of jacquard weaving manufacturing is almost the same as that of weaving commodity fabrics. Additionally, the variety of fabrics woven at ITMA 2003 was broader than ever before, and was characterized by intricate designs and industrial applications.

Design and development of shuttleless weaving machines and ancillaries

India has world’s largest installed base for looms. But it has the lowest proportion of modern shuttle less looms (0.18 %) compared with competing countries like China (6.35 %), Indonesia (9.28 %), Pakistan (4.26 %), Japan (15.3 %), Russia (77.97 %) and USA (90.67 %). Value addition and the manufacturing of fabrics according to customer’s compliances, is not possible due to obsolete technology of looms in India. So the present power loom sector has to be modernized with cost effective shuttle less loom suitable for Indian condition.

a. Air-jet weaving:

Air-jet weaving machines are characterized by a jet of compressed air which is used to insert the weft into the warp. Air-jet looms are highly productive but less versatile than rapier looms. They are best suited to lightweight fabrics. They are moderately versatile and can be used to produce a significant variety of fabrics although heavy fabrics like denim significantly increase the energy consumption. Energy consumption is relatively high (compared to rapier or water-jet) but because of a relatively low number of moving parts, replacement costs for spare parts are relatively low. They require considerable infrastructure involving air compressors and high pressure air-piping in order to become operational. This infrastructure can cost between 5% and 25% of the overall machine value. Typically they are used by weavers catering to a predictable and unchanging demand for a particular fabric. They are produced by Promatech, Picanol, Dornier, Tsudakoma and Toyota.

Switzerland-based Sultex Ltd., also a member of the ITEMA Group, featured the other of the two widest air-jet machines. The new 5.4-meter-wide L9400 P 540 N 2 L was shown weaving leno fabric for carpet backing at a width in reed of 5.33 meters and a speed of 420 ppm, or 2,238 m/min RFI.

Over at the St�ubli booth, Sultex showed another fast air-jet machine — the L5400 S 210 N 4 SP TL — weaving women’s wear fabric at a width in reed of 2.1 meters and a speed of 990 ppm, or 2,079 m/min RFI.

b. Projectile weaving:

Projectile machines are characterized by a projectile which is used to insert the weft into the warp. Projectile looms are relatively expensive, with a wide range of application and relatively low energy consumption, and are suitable for the production of high to medium quality textiles. Projectile looms accommodate larger widths than other looms. They also have a longer life span than any other loom. Projectile looms have similar technical characteristics to rapier looms but are also significantly more expensive than most other looms (with the exception of multiphase looms). Due to their relatively high price and average productivity levels projectile looms are a product for niche markets. This machine type is almost exclusively produced by sulzer.

As usual, Sultex was the only company that showed a projectile weaving machine. Two machines were exhibited. The fastest is its P7300 B 390 N 4 SP D12, a 3.9-meter-wide machine, shown weaving a five-harness cotton sateen cloth at a width in reed of 3.51 meters and at 370 ppm, corresponding to 1,300 m/min RFI. The machine was equipped with four-filling insertion with individual feeder, guides and tension control for each yarn. The actual filling insertion rate considering the four simultaneous insertions is 5,200 m/min. The other machine was the P73 RSP B 360 N 4 SP D12, shown weaving a cotton canvas cloth at a width in reed of 3.65 meters and a speed of 330 ppm, corresponding to 1,205 m/min RFI.

c. Rapier weaving:

Positive rapier looms are the most versatile weaving machine available. Weft insertion is achieved through the use of metal grips, called rapiers, which pull the weft thread to the centre of the loom, where it is actively transferred to the other rapier head which brings it to the other side of the loom. The rapier head is mounted on a rod. They are intended for specialized textile production of high quality. Productivity levels are lower than for negative rapier looms while energy consumption is comparatively higher making them among the more expensive machines not only to buy but also to run. They are currently produced by Dornier and, to a lesser extent, by Promatech and Panter.

Negative rapier machines come second (after positive rapier) in terms of versatility and are able to produce high quality fabrics of sophisticated design. Weft insertion is achieved by the use of metal grips, called rapiers, one of which transports the weft thread to the centre of the loom, where it is transferred passively to the other rapier which brings it to the other side of the loom. The design and development of the rapier head itself involves sophisticated technology involving both patents and know-how. The rapier head is mounted on a tape. These machines are moderately expensive, have average energy consumption and an average speed. They are produced primarily by Promatech, Sulzer, Picanol and to a lesser extent, Panter. Tsundakoma is manufacturing a limited number of negative rapier looms exclusively for the Japanese market, where they are used to manufacture traditional Japanese textiles.

d. New jacquard shedding concepts:

The shed formation in the UNISHED, shown mounted on a Dornier LWV6/J air-jet weaving machine, is achieved using leaf springs. Each leaf spring is connected to a heddle that controls one warp end. The leaf springs, which are controlled by actuators, control the bottom shed as well as the top shed (a positive jacquard shed type). The configuration of the jacquard head and the individual control of each heddle (or warp end) allow the heddles to be set vertically. These settings eliminate the need for harness cords, magnets, hooks, pulleys, springs and the gantry. This results in lower building and air-conditioning costs.

The jacquard head is mounted directly on the side frames of the weaving machine, thus making quick style change (QSC) possible in jacquard weaving, as it is easy to exchange the entire jacquard head, including the heddles.

Harness cord (or warp end) selection is performed electronically, and hence, fabric design is achieved in the same way as on any other current electronic jacquard system. The dimensions of the jacquard head — the jacquard head and tie width are the same as the reed width — and the control of individual warp ends by a stepping motor permit the harness cords to be set vertically. The design of the UNIVAL 100 eliminates the need for hooks, knives, magnets and pulleys, as each harness cord or heddle is directly attached to a stepping motor.

The UNIVAL 100 seems to have advanced significantly. In fact, it demonstrates the highest rate of filling insertion in jacquard weaving history. The UNIVAL design provides weavers with new opportunities that have never before been available in jacquard shedding. With such a system, the shed height can easily be set, and several sheds can be formed. All settings can be conducted electronically through a user interface without the need for mechanical adjustments. Another significant feature of the UNIVAL is its independence from the weaving machine drive, because it has its own drive without mechanical coupling to the weaving machine. According to St�ubli, UNIVAL’s modular construction enables a jacquard capacity range of 5,120 to 20,480 warp threads (stepping motors).

Jakob Muller AG Frick, Switzerland, showed for the first time the MDL/C, an impressive new harness free jacquard shedding concept (international patents pending) that represented one of the main attractions at this ITMA. The shedding concept is based on individual electronic selection of warp yarns using special heddle wires. The company showed the system on its MDL/C label machine. The machine has no traditional jacquard head, harness or comber board. Additionally, the new concept eliminates the need for hooks, pulleys and returning springs. With such elimination, machine parts and size are dramatically reduced.

While the machine is still being developed and is not yet available commercially, it was running efficiently during the short demonstrations at ITMA. Other features of the MDL/C include: weft insertion using needles, thus allowing soft selvage formation; up to eight colors of filling yarns; and electronic warp tension adjustment and control.