An Introduction

 

The age old unique craft of Batik refers to a technique of printing on cloth using molten wax. Though the motifs traditionally used in Batik have undergone a change over time, the method of printing remains the same. The word Batik has been derived from the Javanesewords Amba, meaning to write, and titik, meaning dot or point. This article aims at studying the origin of the ancient craft of Batik, the method, themotifs and the major centres of the same.

 

The origin and chief centres

 

There is a difference of opinion among experts regarding the origin of Batik printing. Some experts opine that this beautiful craft originated in India, while others believe that it originated in Egypt. However, there also a mass, which considers that Batik printing started in Sumeria.

 

Apart from India and Egypt, this craft is also practiced in Indonesia, Malaysia, Iran, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Thailand and some regions in Africa such as Nigeria, Cameroon and Mali. Cholamandal in South India is popular for Batik printing.

 

The popularity of Batik increased after it was adopted as a subject at the Shantiniketan University in Calcutta.

 

The craft of Batik became popular in Malaysia around 1913. It is now the primary revenue generator of the country.

 

Java in Indonesia is well known forits exotic motifs, while Malaysian Batiks are popular for their vivid colors.

 

The crew of Malaysias national airlines wears Batik uniforms. Batik clothes are popular souvenir in Malaysia.

 

The technique

 

A special type of resist-dyeing technique is used for Batik printing. Under this technique, parts of plain cloth are covered by wax and then the cloth is dyed. The cloth is later boiled tore move the wax. The areas covered by wax retain their original color, thus creating beautiful designs. Cracks are developed in the wax by crumpling the cloth, leading to seepage of the dye into the area covered by wax. This is one of the distinguishing features of batik printing.

 

Before applying wax on the cloth, the cloth is prepared by starching it. Then it is stretched on a frame and designs are traced on it. Generally, a combination of 70% paraffin wax and 30% beeswaxis used for application. This is done because beeswax holds to the fabric and paraffin wax tends to crack, so that the dye can seep in. A lot of caution needs to be exercised while using the wax so as to ensure that overheating does not take place.

 

Initially, manual labor was used to trace the design on the cloth, but in the modern times, blocks are used for this purpose. Batik work is largely done using blocks in Indonesia, Thailand and Malaysia; however, artisans in Sri Lanka still prefer tracing the design manually.

 

There are various methods of applying wax on the cloth. The Splash method and the Hand-painting method are the most commonly used ones. In case of the Splash method, wax is poured on to the cloth, while in case of the Hand-painting method, a pen is used to coat the cloth with wax.

 

 

Traditionally, pure cotton cloth, rice starch and natural dyes made from leaves, plants and other natural substances were used for Batik printing. Usually, vibrant colors are preferred for Batik printing. The color blue was derived from indigo, while orange and red colors were made using henna. Turmeric was used to make yellow color, while black color was made by burning iron. However, natural dyes are fast being replaced by chemical ones. A combination of two or more colors can also be used to create different effects. Moreover, poplin, voile as well as pure silk fabric are also nowadays being used for Batik printing.

 

The elaborate process of creating a Batik fabric ensures that no two pieces are exactly the same.


The motifs

 

In the Batiks made in Indonesia, mystical and ritualistic motifs are made use of. Apart from this, motifs from nature are also used, such as flowers, trees and birds. The Sawat motif is commonly used in Javanese Batik. In Batiks made in India, motifs such as that of the Garuda and other natural motifs are commonly found. African Batiks usually feature people doing their routine activities, such as people grinding corn, praying, carrying water or wood, combing hair or dancing.

 

With the passage of time, a number of innovations have taken place in the motifs used in Batik. However, the motifs can be broadly divided into two categories: geometrical and elaborate. The elaborate motifs are generally natural, such as flowers and buds, leaves, birds, fish, butterflies, vines, small animals and insects.

 

Conclusion

 

Batik is considered to be evergreen in the fashion world. Batik is fast being accepted as a fashion statement all over the world. From being used only in tailored garments, the use of Batik in dress materials and scarves is rising. Newer colors and motifs are being used. However, the number of artisans engaged in this activity is declining, mainly on account of the highly intricate process of applying wax, dyeing and removal of the wax.

 

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