Decentralized printing cluster of Jetpur

Textile printing is an imperative segment of textile processing industry giving employment to millions of people. It is alleged that due to unscientific methods of processing, unhealthy work practices and scant regards to environment protection this sector has emerged as a major water polluter, playing havoc with the health of population residing in and around them. The study is instigated to swot up the impact of screen-printing units of Jetpur in degrading the environment and gauge the problems faced by the worker sand inhabitants staying in the close proximity to the units.

Pollution is the main accuse in the textile printing sectors. The effluents discharged from the printing units ground causes environmental pollution. The use of toxic chemicals in printing units cause threat to the manpower employed in such units in a way directly resulting in occupational health hazards. Since a major time of a worker is spent in his work place, the need for the concern towards health problems and factors responsible for the same becomes a decisive point of study. Further the untreated effluents are discharged into the environment they can cause severe contamination of surface and underground water¹.

The introduction of a more environmentally sound practices of work is however, hampered by many practical obstacles. The main problem liesin the collection and assessment of the environmental data. It becomes difficult to calculate the impact of usually complex processes on the environment and health of the workers. In view of these facts, a survey was conducted to discern the factors responsible for the problems and to assess the health risk and environmental toxicity caused due to textile printing industry.

Methodology

A descriptive research design was planned using a survey method. Purposive sampling in conjunction with snowball technique was adopted to select a sample size of 50 printing units from Jetpur. Purposive sampling method was used to draw a sample, which comprised of 50 owners and 150 workers,15 residents residing within one kilometres range of printing units and five doctors o the panel of textile association were interviewed for the corroboration of data. The SWOT analysis was done to create a holistic insight about the various aspects like man, material, money and market of the printing units for future improvement and development (fig-1).

Results and Discussion

Findings of the investigation as obtained on analysis of data using survey and observation method through open and closed ended interview schedule are described and discussed under following heads: The printing cluster, Profile of the owners, Technical information of the units,Marketing strategy followed by the owners of the units, Waste management in theprinting units, Health problems of the workers in the units, Corroboration of data, SWOT analysis.

The printing cluster

Jetpur is a small town of Saurashtra situated at21″43′60N latitude and 70″37′0E longitude, 70 kms. away from Rajkot. Jetpur has been a centre of trade and commerce famous for itsscreen-printing.Comprising of the total population of 1, 50,000 of which 40,000people are engaged in printing work. The economy of the town is dominated bydomestic market and indirect exports of printed saris, Kanga andKitanga(African Garments used for draping) respectively with average yearly production of rupees 7.2 crores from the domestic market and of Rs.200 crores from the export market.

Jetpur Printing Industry

(As per JDPA) 40,000 people are predominately affianced in the printing business apart from some labour force from the nearby states. The total number of printing units were 515 comprising 30,000 printing tables, 130flat bed-printing machines employing about 40000 workers with an average yearly of Rupees 7.2 Crores for the domestic market and of Rupees 200 Crores for the export market .In the year 1992 a common effluent treatment plant with a capacity of one Crore litre via 12 channels was constructed by Gujarat Industrial Development Corporation.

Technical Information of the Units

The data regarding the area covered by the units revealed that majority i.e. 70 per centof the units covered an area of 1000 to 2000 square yards. The finding further indicated that 88 per cent of the units had an initial investment of Rupees oneto five lacs, values of the data regarding the existing capital investment indicate a high rise of the present capital value i.e. almost four times that of the initial invested capital. The findings revealed that all the printingunits employed less than 25 workers being small-scale units.

The analysis of the data pertaining to the sourcing of the raw material revealed that the major sourcing centres for fabric were Malegaon, Bhiwandi, Local market of Jetpur, Mumbai, Icchalkaranji.Whereas, chemicals were procured from local market.Cent per cent units purchased the screens from Jetpur. The buyers specified the designs on the screen in case of 82 per cent of the units while 32 per cent units had appointed designers. The charge of screen making was based on the size of screen and design or motif on the screen.

The results pertaining to the printing processes undertaken within the units as observed included printing and sodium silicate after treatment. Amongst 50 printing units, 11 units were confined to printing process whereas 39 units carried out both printing and after treatment. The production process of chemicals and printing procedure were observed to be similar in all the printing units. The fabric was obtained in grey state by the buyer that was further sent for processing to the local dealers.

The processing included scouring of fabric with Sodium bicarbonate and detergent to remove the grease and dirt particles from the fabric followed by bleaching using oxidizing bleach to impart whiteness. The fabrics were then dried and dispatched to the printing units. It was then cut into the required length as per the article to be printed i.e. for sari a length ranged between 5.5 or 6 meters was needed; a fabric length of 1.8 meters for Khanga and 0.9 meters for Kitanga was required. The printing table was coated with wax and the fabric was placed on it. The coating was done either monthly or bimonthly, depending on the production. On the other hand printing paste was prepared by the dye master wherein mixing was carried out manually in most of the units.

After the printing final finishing touches are given at the edges where dye paste had not penetrated were carried out manually with the help of a sponge dipped in dye paste The fabric was then dried on the table for two to three hours followed by hanging on the cords for complete drying in open air some of the units also used hot tables for drying the fabric. To fix the prints on the fabric the next chemical process was after treatment given with sodium silicate carried out by padding mangle the fabric was treated with a solution of sodium silicate and was kept for 12 hours followed by drying in natural air (figure-2). Fabric was then sent for washing for removal of free silicate and gum adhered to the fabric surface.

Washing and drying was followed by stentering or manual application of maize starch. Ironing was the final finishing process given to the printed fabrics, which were then folded and packaged ready for dispatch. The packaging of the products was done both manually and mechanically for domestic and export markets respectively(figure-3).

Marketing strategy followed

Cent percent of the units were engaged in job work and only 12 percent had captive production. The enterprises catered to various cities of India and East Africa for export market. The production of the products was as per the buyers specification, 66 % of the owners had fixed buyers and 36% need to assess the markets for orders.

Waste management in printing units

Production of liquid effluents was due to washing of fabric, screens, containers, tables and after treatment as depicted in plate-1. 2001-3500 litres of effluent was produced by 40% of the units whereas 36% of the units produced more than 5000 litres of liquid effluents per day as portrayed in fig-4. The liquid effluent generated was directly related to the production of the printed goods. The amount of solid waste produced ranged between21 to 60 kilograms which included fabric trimming, scraps of fabric and fuel ash.

Effluent contents of wastewater generated in preliminary processing of the fabric are starch, polyvinyl alcohol and softeners resulting in increased level of BOD and TDS contents. Oils and waxes are generated during scouring interfered with the oxygenation of the water stream and were insoluble in water. The printing was carried out by the use of reactive dyes, glycerine, urea and thickener. The unfixed dye present liquid effluent imparted persistent colour to the receiving streams, which interfered with the photosynthesis of phytoplankton resulting in biological growth and high level of nitrogen. Sulphonate groups present in reactive dyes are hardly biodegradable. Glycerine used as a solubilising agent is non-biodegradable causing land pollution. After treatment with silicate results in turbid water due to deposition of free silicate radicals² (table-1)

Disposal of liquid effluent to the treatment plant was in accordance with the standards laid by Gujarat pollution control board but it took three to four days to evacuate the open drains to the main stream connected to ETP. Excess accumulation and overflow of drainage resulted in coloured stagnant water creating open roadside ditches as portrayed in plate-2. Fabric scraps were sold in the retail market by the weight. The treated water was used for agricultural land and solid waste was burnt in open air and the residue was sold to local dealers for production of fuel used in the boilers as depicted in plate-3.

Health aspects of workers

Workers usually suffered from skin, hand, shoulder, cardiovascular and lower limb problems. Major problems related to skin were dryness, cracks and itching caused due to the exposure to chemicals. Shoulder problems comprised of elbow pain followed by stiffness and owing to the activity performed during the job. 30%of the workers suffered chest pain due to the to and fro motion of hands while printing. Stressful and long working hours resulted in pain in hands, legs and joints as shown in table-2 Excess heat and foul smell were the exposure faced by the workers in the printing units attributed to low ceiling and lack of ventilation.

Corroboration of data

Major problems faced by the residents were Insufficient water supply, land pollution, foul odour and stagnant coloured water however, the inhabitants did not face any disease owing to increased number of units. Interviews of the doctors confirmed that skin problems, chest pain and pain in lower limbs were the major problems faced by the patients engaged in printing job, the reasons stated were long hours of working, improper work posture and weak physical built of the workers. 20% of the migrant workers were exposed to diseases like scabies and ringworm due to unhygienic living conditions.

SWOT

Strength

Supplies to the export market contribute towards earning foreign exchange.

Potential to increase the share of global requirement

Labour force easily accessible.

Weakness

90-95% units do job work.

Unavailability of textile testing laboratories.

Poor marketing network for direct export.

Opportunities

Implication of quality management system

Consortium to meet marketing activities for large volume

Value addition by establishing garment-manufacturing units.

Threats

1. Pollution problem owing to increased number of units.

2. Outdated method of production.

Table-1 Contribution of various effluent contents causing environmental pollution

Table-2: Problems faced by workers owing to the various occupational hazards

(N=150)*

*Multiple responses

Acknowledgement

The authors are thankful to Textile Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, for sponsoring this project.

References:

De, A.K., Environmental chemistry. New age international (P) Ltd.Publishers, V edition, New Delhi-2003. .

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