Eco labelling

Department of Textile Technology,

PSG College of Technology

ganeshg007@rediffmail.com& shariharan108@gmail.com

Introduction

There has been a significant increase over the past fewyears in the use of eco-labels, i.e. environmental labels attached to a varietyof products to attract the attention of consumers about the environmentallypositive features of the products. Generally these labels are voluntary andmostly used for the promotion of the products on the basis of theirenvironmentally friendly characteristics. In the case of textiles and clothingthere are for the time being no eco-labels the use of which has been enforcedby mandatory rules.

Eco-labels are normally issued either by Governmentsupported or private enterprises once it has been proved that the product of the applicant has met the criteria set by them for the label. The criteria for theuse of eco-labels are mostly based on the cradle-to-grave approach, i.e. the life-cycle analysis of the product. The cradle-to-grave approach for textiles and clothing is making the assessment of the impact on the environment ofthe product during its life-cycle: processing of raw materials, production, distribution, consumption (maintenance, i.e. washing, ironing, dry-cleaning) andfinally disposal of the product. Admittedly there are big differences betweenvarious eco-labelling schemes, some of which are based on detailed analysis ofthe environmental impacts as again some other systems may analyse only certainstages of the life-cycle

What is an Eco-Friendly Product?

Any product which is made, used or disposed off in a way,that significantly reduces the harm it would have otherwise caused to the environment,can be termed as eco-friendly product.  Thus, it involves complete lifecycle assessment of the product right from its raw material extraction stage,manufacture, use and to the final disposal with regard to its impact onenvironment.

Aim of Eco-Friendly Products Labelling

Ecolabel generally represents a holistic judgement, givingan overall assessment of a product's environmental quality relative to other products in the same category.  In other words it is a claim which indicates the environmentalaspects of a product or service. Environmental labels operate as informativeand voluntary market instruments.

Eco-labelling can accomplish several goals:

• Improving sales or image of a labelled product; 
• Stimulating consumer awareness about environmental impact of products;
• Directing manufactures for the environmental impact of their products; and
• Ultimately improving the quality of the environment and encouraging the sustainable management of resources.

The overall goal of eco-labelling is to encourage the demandfor and supply of those products and services that cause less stress on theenvironment, thereby stimulating the potential for market-driven continuousenvironmental improvement.

Eco-Labelling and International Scenario

Environmental labelling programmes are becoming popularworldover.  At least, 15 countries including India have launched theecolabelling schemes that are either sponsored by the governments or by thevoluntary organisations that receive technical and financial support from theirgovernment.

While there is a need for greater transparency, voluntaryecolabelling schemes should not be brought under the scope of the technicalbarriers to trade agreement.  As ecolabelling is featuring as acontertious issue in international trade, the Indian industry needs to gearitself to meet the new challenges. Accrecitation and prevailing laws ofindividual countries may at times act as barriers for international trade. Toeliminate such deterimental features in the scheme, it is made amply clear thatthe ecolabelling scheme in India is a purely voluntary scheme open to allmanufactures, both domestic and foreign.

There are different eco-labelling schemes both in developedand developing countries. The following list includes some of the governmentsponsored and some private labelling schemes:

Government sponsored schemes

Blue Angel (D), Eco Mark (JPN), Environmental Choice (CND), White Swan (Nordic Countries), EU, Eco-Mark (India), Green Label (Singapore)

Private labelling schemes

eco-tex, Oeko-Tex(textiles and clothing)(D). Green Seal (US), Bra Miljval(Sweden), Britta Steilmann Collection (D) etc.

Eco-standards and eco-Iabels are quickly started to have significance in arrange to have a successful expert and market promotion in the apparel and textile industry. For the delivering eco-Iabels particular standards should be set, i.e., these measures are developed on analysing the product's whole lifecycle beginning with the selection of raw materials progressing through the stages of production, packaging, distribution, use and disposal after utilization. Some of them are as described below:

OEKO- TEX Standard 100

For research and testing in the field of textile ecology, the OEKO- TEX standards were given by the Austrian Textile Research Institute and the German "Hohenstein Research Institute".

The OEKO-TEX standards have described a variety of norms and limit values for different classes. They can be described as follows: . Product class I: Defined for babies and infants up to two years of age. . Product class II: This class is defined for textiles that come into direct contact with the skin and cover a large part of its surface, during usage. . Product class III: The class includes textiles which do not come into direct contact with the skin or cover only a small part of its surface during application. . Product class IV: This class covers furnishing materials which are used for decorative purposes.

MST (Markenzeichen Schadstoffgeprufter Textile)

This is a product label, which is to be used for products that are made in Germany and referring only properties of textiles.

Trademarks for textile tested harmful substances

MUT: This is a trademark for textiles that are made by environmentally sound protection methods (VVUT). It needs acquiescence of certain rules in their manufacture.

GUT: This eco-Iabel was established by well-known companies in European carpet industry. GUT exists for "Gemeinschaft Umweltfreundlicher Teppichboden." It is an association for environmentally friendly carpets with an objective of maximizing textile floor-coverings and their protection cycle.

GuW: It is a seal of Eco-friendly Furnishing Fabric Association.

CLEAN FASHION: It is an Eco-Iabel introduced by private companies related to textiles.

STEILMANN: This is an Eco-Iabel of the most prominent German Textile Company.

GREEN COTTON: A label based on an internal evaluation system that considers social, ecological and toxicological values.

ECO MARK: This is an Indian eco-Iabel.

Eco-labelling Criteria for Textiles

General Requirements

1. All the textile products manufactured shall meet relevant standards of Bureau of Indian Standards.
   
2. The product manufacturer must produce the consent clearance as per the provisions of Water (Prevention and Control of pollution) Act, 1974 and Air (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Cess Act, 1977 respectively, alongwith the authorisation, if required, under Environment (Protection) Act, 1986 and the rules made thereunder to the Bureau of Indian Standards while applying for ECOMARK.  Additionally, the manufacturer shall produce documentary evidence on compilance of the provisions related to noise level and occupational health under the provisions of Factories Act, 1948 and Rules made thereunder.
3. The product packaging may display in brief the criteria based on which the product has been labelled environment friendly.
4. The material used for product packaging shall be reusable or made from recyclable or biodegradable materials.
5. Fatty alcohol based non-ionics as emulsifier shall be used wherever required.
6. Polyhalogenated based phenolic fire retardants shall not be used.
7. The azo dyes prohibited for handling in India shall not be used. 

International Organisation of Standardisation (ISO) has published ISO 14001:1996 Environmental Management System-Specification with guidence for use.  The Environmental Management System (EMS) is a part of the overall management system of any organisation which enables it to manage its activities, products and services on a proactive basis systematically so as to improve its environmental performance continually.  It includes organisational structure, planning activities, responsibilities, practices, procedures, processes and resources for developing, implementing, achieving, reviewing and maintaining the environmental policy of the organisation.  Various organisations (manufacturing and services sectors) can implement the EMS as per this standard and can seek third party certification for improving its public image as an environmentally sound organisation.  However, third party certification is voluntary in nature.  Bureau of Indian Standards has been operating EMS Certification Scheme under which about 30 licences have already been granted, covering textiles, cement, tiles, steel, engineering and chemical units.

The other standard brought out by ISO under 1400 series include:

14010 series - Environmental Auditing

14020 series - Environmental Labelling

14030 series - Environmental Performance Evaluation

14040 series - Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)

14050 series - Environmental Management Terms and Definitions.

ISO Standards on Environmental Labelling

ISO has published following standards under environmental labelling :

• ISO 14020 : 1998 - Environmental Labels and Declaration - General Principles
• ISO 14021 : 1999 - Environmental Labels and Declarations - Self declared Environmental Claims (Type II Environmental labelling)
• ISO 14024 : 1999 - Environmental Labels and Declarations - Type I Environmental Labelling - Principles and Procedures.
• ISO/TR 14025 : 2000 - Environmental Labels and Declarations - Type III Environmental Declarations

General Principles of Environmental Labeling as per ISO 14020

• Environmental labels and declarations shall be accurate, verifiable, relevant and non-deceptive.
• Procedures and requirements of environmental labels and declarations shall not be prepared, adopted or applied with a view to, or with the effect of creating unnecessary obstacles to international trade.
• Environmental labels and declarations shall be based on scientific methodology that is sufficiently through and comprehensive to support the claim and that produces results that are accurate and reproducible.
• The development of environmental labels and declarations should, wherever appropriate, take into consideration the life cycle of the product or service.
• Environmental labels and declarations shall not inhibit innovation which maintains or has the potential to improve environmental performance.
• Any administrative requirement or information demand related to environmental labels and declarations shall be limited to those necessary to establish conformance with applicable criteria and standards of the labels and declarations.
• The process of developing environmental labels and declarations should include an open, participatory consultation with interested parties.  Reasonable efforts should be made to achieve a consensus throughout the process.
• Information on the environmental aspects of products and services relevant to an environmental label or declaration shall be available to purchasers from the party making the environmental labels or declaration.
• Information concerning the procedure, methodology, and any criterion used to support environmental labels and declarations shall be available and provided upon request to all interested parties.

Type II Eco labelling as per ISO 14021

Type II Eco-labeling scheme given in ISO 14021 is meant for the self-declaration of claims by the company regarding its products or services and do not call for third party certification like 'Ecomark' scheme which is like Type II Scheme.  Some government agency needs to be designated to accredit laboratories/technical institutions to verify claims made by the manufacturers.  Also the manufacturers following Type II Eco-labeling Scheme need to follow general principles of Eco-labeling as per ISO 14020.  In Type II Eco-labeling scheme, the manufacturers simply declare the information they wish to declare about the environmental aspects of their products.  The self-declared claims made in respect of products may be in the form of statement, symbol or graphics on product or package label, product literature, technical bulletins, advertising, etc.

CONCLUSION

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