Introduction:
Technology selection:
v
v
Quality requirement of fabrics meant for garment sector/export market
Key issues to be considered for the modernisation of weaving sector
v Capital cost of the machinery and equipments for the required product mix, keeping in view the return of Capital investment,( grey fabric cost/meter, cost/pick etc)
v Flexibility of the equipment to meet the changing market demand, keeping in view the full utilization of the attachment of shuttleless looms such as dobby, jacquard, number of weft color selection
v Operate the shuttleless looms at 85%-90% installed efficiency
v Monitor the operating cost i.e. power, water, lighting, humidification, air in case of Airjet looms, lighting, spare parts etc.
v Improve the infrastructure i.e. building, roads, transport and communication network, computer aided design facilities
v Trained work
force and training facilities, yarn testing and fabric testing facilities and
market research, product development
Appropriate shuttleless looms options are:
v New Rapier looms (Flexible or rigid) Indigenous or Imported
v Airjet looms
v Second hand rapier or Airjet looms, with a minimum residual life of 20 years and capable to work at the manufacturers recommended loom speed with minimum breakdowns
It is advisable to install new looms instead of second hand looms. To illustrate the advantage, Annexure I gives the comparison of new Rapier looms and second hand Rapier looms
Annexure I
Loom shed configuration:
Particulars |
New Rapier loom |
Second hand Rapier loom |
No. of looms |
24 |
24 |
Area requirement |
10,860 sq. feet |
10,860 sq. feet |
Loom speed r.p.m. |
550 |
350 |
Production/day/24 looms |
5,364 metres |
3413 metres |
Capital Cost of the Project (Approximate) Rupees in Lacs
Capital Cost of the Project (Approximate) Rupees in Lacs |
||
Particulars |
Value |
Value |
Cost of one Rapier loom |
20 |
12 |
Total cost of 24 looms |
480 |
288 |
Ancillary equipment |
||
Material handling |
7.0 |
7.0 |
Knotting unit |
15.0 |
15.0 |
Stabiliser |
2.0 |
2.0 |
Compressor |
2.0 |
2.0 |
Humidification plant |
18.0 |
18.0 |
Water softening plant |
1.5 |
1.5 |
Fabric Inspection machine |
2.5 |
2.5 |
Drawing in stands |
1.0 |
1.0 |
False ceiling/ducting |
4.0 |
4.0 |
Internal electricals |
12.0 |
12.0 |
TOTAL |
545 .0 |
353.0 |
Operating Cost/Meter (Conversion cost/meter)
Particulars |
New Rapier loom Rupees/meter |
Second hand Rapier loom Rupees/meter |
Power |
3.61 |
5.68 |
Sizing cost |
2.40 |
2.40 |
Labour Cost |
0.78 |
1.21 |
Staff & Administration |
0.43 |
0.71 |
Spare parts 7 Maintenance |
0.27 |
0.63 |
Water for humidification |
0.30 |
0.30 |
Interest@9.0% |
2.50 |
2.45 |
Depreciation 10% annum |
2.90 |
3.00 |
Total conversion cost/meter |
13.19 |
16.38 |
Cost/pick 190 cm loom |
18 NP |
23 NP |
Cost/metre will go down with Government interest subsidy, and power subsidy
Assumptions:
Quality considered: |
Yarn dyed shirting 150 cms Finished fabric 40 Ne warp 40 Ne weft 108 reed and 72 pick |
Power Cost |
Rs. 4.0 unit |
Spare part maintenance |
Rs. 20 loom shift new looms Rs.30 lomm shift old loom |
Sizing cost |
Rs. 20/kg. |
Water |
Rs. 25/KL |
Technological comparison of Rapier looms and Airjet looms.
Both modern rapier looms and Airjet looms are capable to produce variety fabrics and are equipped with required attachments as per the customers requirement. Most of the looms are user friendly and easy to maintain because of the electronic controls.
To cater the needs of domestic market and export market the loom width ideally suited is 190 cms for single width weaving and 340 cms for multi-width width weaving or wider width weaving of sheetings and bed linen and furnishing fabrics
|
Features |
Rapier looms |
Airjet looms |
1. |
Capital cost /loom (Rs.) |
12-22 Lakhs |
16-24 lakhs |
2. |
Pick insertion |
Single/multiple |
Single/Multiple |
3. |
(a) 190 cms width (b) 340 cms width |
400-650 r.p.m. 350 r.p.m. |
800-1000 r.p.m 550-600 r.p.m |
4. |
Operating Cost/loom |
Moderate |
Moderate |
5. |
Flexibility to Weave Different Type of fabric |
Versatile |
Limited |
6. |
Suitability |
Short/long runs |
Long runs |
7. |
Yarn quality and weaving preparatory requirement |
Moderate |
Superior |
8. |
Power cost/loom |
5.5-7.0KW |
11 -12 Kw |
Technical specifications of shuttleless loom
|
Feature |
Rapier Loom |
Airjet Loom |
1. |
Loom width |
190-380 cms |
190-380 cms |
2. |
Yarn range |
spun yarn Nm 1-2 Filament 22-4000 Denier |
spun yarn Nm 3-170 20-500 denier |
3. |
Filling selection |
1-12 colour |
1-8 colour |
4. |
Filling stop motion |
Piezoelectric |
Photoectric |
5. |
Shed formation Cam Dobby Jacquard |
8 cam Electronic 12-20 shafts Electronic |
10 cam 10-16 shfts Electronic |
6. |
let off 7 take up |
Electronic |
Electronic |
7. |
Selvedge motion |
Electronic controlled |
Rotary selvedge motion |
8. |
Pick finding |
Automatic |
Automatic |
9. |
Machine drive |
Independent Sumo motor |
Sumo motor |
10 |
Optional |
start mark preventor |
start mark preventor |
11. |
Machine controls |
Microprocessor control |
Microprocessor control |
12 |
Ability to handle Fancy weft |
wide range |
Limited range |
13. |
Weft control |
Electronic |
Electronic |
14 |
Selvedge formation |
Leno, Tucked, Melt |
Tucked, Leno, Melt |
15 |
Multiwidth weaving |
Suitable |
Suitable |
Strategy
to be adopted by the small-scale sector to optimize the production and control
cost
1. Procure the imported/indigenous shuttleless looms ready to weave with required cams for plain, Twill or sateen weave with healds, heald frame. Warp beam, drop pins can be procured locally from reputed manufacturers to bring down the capital cost
2. Humidification system should be for minimum 24 looms to keep the cost low.
3 .In case of Airjet loom compressor should be for running 24-48 looms to reduce the cost. Air should be free of moisture and oil.
4. Employ contract skilled labour for knotting /drawing/loom cleaning to bring down the labour cost
5. Arrange to have the warp beam sized from reputed sizers.
6. Shuttleless loom utilization should be 95% and above
7. Maintenance personnel can be shared among a group of entrepreneurs
8. Engineering service can be shared among a group of entrepreneurs
9. Common spare parts storage to bring down the loom downtime
10 Insist on loom manufacturers representative to do the loom audit and maintenance check up
11. Cloth inspection/packing should be on contract basis
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