When apparel industry is concerned, we first start thinking,how apparels are generated, which engineering is playing an important role intoit. Right from the beginning of conceiving an idea for designing arrangementand finished with a brand name. The tiniest unit of a garment is fibre which,further takes shape to yarn and threads.


Threads similarly play a vital role in Apparel Industry inconstruction and stitching of garment. Now, here we will talk what is seamengineering.


Seam Engineering


It includes seam and stitch construction. The more thread astitch consumes, the greater is the strength. This is clearly visible when wecompare lock stitch and chain stitch. Lock stitch is one in which thread islocked both sides of the fabric and starts with 301 lock stitch. It undergoesmore shearing as compared to chain stitch and over edge stitch. As inlockstitch threads are interlocked rather than inter-looped.


Another concept attached to seam strength is SPI (stitch perinch)- this again goes back to the words that more is the thread in the seam,the more is the strength of the seam. This again varies as per the fabricswhere, too many stitches might damage the fabric as picking at one placeincreases, leading to weakening of the yarn. However, it also leads to production loss with increase in the puckering number.


How to estimate seam Strength


Now, for estimating the strength there are certain formulasthat are developed for different kinds of fabric strength.


1) 301 lock stitch formula 401 chainstitch formula

SPI* Thd. strength*1.5*= estimated seam strength

For e.g. 10*4.01bs*1.5 = 601 bs

2) For apparels, normal loopstrength

SPI*Thd. strength*1.7 = estimatedSeam Strength

For e.g. 10*4.01 bs*1.7 = 681 bs

3) For Woven Fabrics

Stitch Type- 301 lock stitch or 401chain stitch

Thread strength- Single end breakingstrength of the threads measured in Pounds.


Machine Adjustments for stitch tensions


Greater seam strength can be obtained by adjusting thesewingthreads tensions, threads controls and eyelets etc.


More of sewing machine thread tension will lead to reduce ofthe seam strength along with many sewing problems.


Factors for Seam Strength


Abrasion Resistance: this is an important factor for upholstery, footwear and incarpet manufacturing as well as into apparels. This includes fiber type, fibresize and shape, thread construction and, thread size.


Stitch and seam construction: Present quality measurementstandards of apparels ASTN, AATCC for evaluating the toughness of sewingthreads. They are conducting comprehensive test using a modified crokometer.


Threads of various types are now available and each one hasits own tickets no. and weight through which it is identified. A manufacturershould be more careful while making a choice of thread for a garment.


Revolution in thread manufacturing has ensured theavailability of thread quality as per the fabric demands. One who is aware ofquality, parameters of threads and, machine type, lubrication of machine and tothread can successfully lead adding quality to apparels and its manufacturing.


About the Author:


The author is the Principal of J. D. Institute of FashionTechnology.



To read more articles on Textile,Industry,TechnicalTextile, Dyes& Chemicals, Machinery,Fashion,Apparel,Technology,Retail,Leather,Footwear & Jewellery,  Softwareand Generalplease visit https://articles.fibre2fashion.com


To promote your company, product and services via promotional article, followthis link: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/services/article-writing-service/content-promotion-services.asp