Source: http://www.textilefabric.com



History


In the past there has been some controversy surrounding theexistence of velvet in earlier centuries. Velvet has in fact been around asearly on as 2000BC. The Egyptians were documented using a technique similar tothe one that is utilized today in velvet production. Throughout the centuriesfrom the medieval era through the renaissance into the flapper rage and stilltoday velvet is being used in a variety of ways. In earlier times only royaltyand nobility could afford to own garments of velvet. It requires more yarns tocreate and a number of extra steps in the process, which adds to the expense ofvelvet garments. It was also common for supplementary sets of yarns to beplaced on the surface of the fabric to create a brocade effect making thedesign intricate and interesting. As the nobility knew and we can still seetoday some of the richest colors can be produced when dying velvet. It has onlybeen in this century that velvet has become affordable to the masses. Theindustrial revolution brought with it the chance for the common person toexperience luxury that was for centuries reserved for royalty and the rich.


Types


The most common type of velvet is a plain weave with a cutpile. It is soft, comes in deep, rich colors and is typically used in formal oreveningwear. This type of velvet generally retails between $16 and $25 a yard(the price may vary depending on quality and location). Velvet is also commonlyused in interior design applications from curtains to upholstery to accentpillows. A common type of upholstery is cut velvet, which has a pattern cut outfrom around uncut loops of pile. Crushing the velvet pile can produce two additional types of velvet, crushed velvet and pann velvet. Crushed velvet involvesthe fabric being mechanically twisted while wet. Applying heavy pressure to the pile in one direction produces pann velvet. Crushed velvet is also found ininterior applications but is often used in apparel as well. For upholsterypurposes crushed velvet can have a coated backing applied to provide stability. When being used in apparel the texture of the crushed velvet creates abeautiful luster effect and the direction of the pile can also be used to provide various looks from the same piece of fabric.


Although they are made the same as true velvet the piledepth differs.


Velveteen: A pile fabric that generally has ashorter pile than true velvet.


Velour: A cotton fabric that has a deeper pile than velveteen and isheavier in weight. It is commonly used in upholstery and draperies.


Knit fabrics can now be made to resemble types of velvet, allowing for thestretch and comfort that we enjoy in todays clothing. Pann velvet is oftenfound as a knit. Garments are often mislabeled in catalogs as velvet when theyare really knits. Even though they may look the similar, knits are not truevelvets.


 

Manufacturing


Velvet is a warp-pile fabric, which means that it has one set of filling yarns and two sets of warp yarns. The second set of warp yarns can be cut or un-cut. Double-cloth and over-wire methods are the two ways to create pile fabrics. In the double cloth method, two fabrics are woven, one above the other, and connected with an extra set of warp yarns. The over-wire method involves placing wires across the loom so that they intersect the cloth is certain places that create a pile. The pile is then cut with a blade that is over the loom. The wire is removed before the fabric is removed from the loom. If an un-cut pile is desired, waste picks can be placed on the wire and are removed after the fabric is off the loom. Velvet can be made out of various types of fibers and blends. The most common types of fibers used are rayon, silk and acetate.


Care


Velvet must be handled carefully and stored properly because folds and creases can permanently flatten the pile. If you need to get creases out of velvet you will need a steamer or a velvet board (a fat board that has hundreds of fine wires sticking out perpendicular). The velvet board helps to protect the pile while it is being ironed. Finer, plain weave velvets can only be dry-cleaned and are difficult to spot clean. Most knit velvets must also be dry-cleaned but some pann and other crushed velvet fabrics can be machine-washed. As always the best thing to do is read the manufacturers label for recommended care. Velvet is a beautiful and luxurious fabric to own but you must provide extra attention to the care and maintenance of this fabric.


Sources


  • Hatch, Kathryn. Textile Science. West Publishing Co. New York, 1993. Page 334.
  • Home Furnishings Network, June 8, 1998, page 21, "The Natural Consumer: Going for the Green", by Faye Musselman.
  • Kadolph, Sara J. and Anna L. Langford, Textiles. 8th ed. Prentice-Hall, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey, 07458, pages 211-12.
  • LaBarthe, Lydie. "12th and 13th Century Velvet" www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/5459/bliaut3.html, 1997.
  • Apparel Industry Magazine, August 1997, pate 68-69, "Coming to America: It's High Time for Hemp's Return", by Faye Musselmlan.
  • Tortora, Phyllis G., Understanding Textiles. 4th Ed. Macmillan Publishing Company. New York, page 324.


 

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