TheIndian garment industry is very vital to the economy of the country. Theindustry contributes 6% to the GDP of the country and earns 12% of its foreignexchange. The Indian garment industry is directly dependent on the weaving andprocessing sectors for its raw material. As the Indian weaving and processingsectors have not geared up to the mark, the garment industry has to depend onthe imported raw material for its requirements.

Astudy was initiated last year in order to identify the difference betweenimported and indigenous fabrics used by the garment industry. The findings ofthe study can help in improving the processes followed by the Indianmanufacturers. The major garment clusters like Chennai, Bangaluru, Tirupur andCoimbatore have been covered under this study. A survey was conducted by includingabout 100 units from the above clusters and fabric samples were also collectedfrom them. The fabric samples that were collected were analysed at SITRA.

Importand export of fabrics

Theimprovement in garment exports has forced many exporters to import their rawmaterial, i.e., fabric. Tables I & 2 show the extent of India's importsfrom various countries during the last 3 years. There has been a significantincrease in the import of fabrics in the last 3 to 4 years, though the factremains that the extent of exports is far higher than the imports. The importof cotton fabrics have increased from 21.5 million sq m during 2003 - 04 to 81million sq m during 2005 - 06 from the Peoples Republic of China, i.e., anincrease by 3 times in 2 - 3 years. Similarly, import of cotton fabrics fromPakistan has increased by 8 times in last 2 - 3 years. Similar trends can beseen in the case of fabrics made of man-made fibres (Table 2).

Table3 shows the import figures of shirting and suiting fabrics compared for theyears 2004 - 2005 and 2005 - 2006. It can be seen that in most of the casesthere is a significant increase during the year 2005 2006.

InIndia, a major portion of fabrics is being produced in the decentralisedsector. Chart I shows the proportion of fabrics produced by differentindustries. It may be seen that the organised sector, which can deliver highquality fabrics, contributes hardly 3% of country's fabric every year.

Many of the units in the organised sector either have their own garment fabrics or have a long-term understanding with international garment manufacturers. Hence, a good number of garment companies have to depend on either powerloom woven fabrics or imported fabrics.

Chart 2 shows the fibre-wise cloth production in India over the years. It may be seen that quite consistently around 50% of fabrics produced in India are made of 100% cotton and around 38% are non-cotton.

Tables 4 & 5 provide details of India's fabric exports. It may be seen that the export ofIndian fabrics (both cotton and man-made fibres) during the period 2003 - 2006 either remained stagnant or decreased.

Objectives

The study was undertaken with following objectives:

• To identify the difference between imported fabrics and indigenous fabrics, used by the garment industries.
• To identify means to improve the quality of Indian fabrics so that they can replace imported fabrics.
• Benchmarking the quality of fabrics being used by the garment industry.
  

Details of the survey

The survey covered 100 garment units in Chennai, Tirupur, Bangaluru and Coimbatore. About 18 garment units were covered in Bangaluru, 21 at Chennai, 4 at Coimbatore and 57 at Tirupur. All the top ranking companies, including woven and knitted garment units, were covered in the survey.

The requirement for any particular type of fabric depends on the seasons, for example, fall summer, fall winter, etc. According to importers, India is a better sourcing centre for summer wears. Formal wears always have a demand throughout the year; So the orders are continuous. Whereas for knitwear, the orders are abundant in winter season (i.e., make it readily available for the next summer in European countries and United states).

On an average, 20% of the imports are of woven fabrics, whereas less than 10% of imports are of knitted fabrics.

The chief varieties of woven fabric which are imported from various countries include linens, ready for dyeing fabrics (RFD), poplins, twill, corduroys, cambric, canvas, chief value cotton (Cvq, interlinings, 100% polyester, woollen acrylic blends, special blends, polynosics, polyester/ nylon blends, polyester/viscose, terylene, cotton/nylon.

In the case of knitted fabrics the major imported fabric types are polar fleece, vellour, jacquard, polyamides, 3 thread fleece, all feeder Iycra jersey (100% viscose, 100% cotton, 100% polyamide), cotton/nylon/ spandex, polyester/nylon/spandex, bamboo/tencel linen/polyester blends, etc.

In India, the lead-time for manufacturing the fabric is 30 45 days with a transit time of maximum 5 days. The lead-time for imported fabric is 15 - 20 days of production and the transit time of 15 - 22 days according to the vessel booked. Even though transit consumes a lot of time for imported fabrics, importers feel that the overall timing is same as that of locally procured fabrics, -with an advantage of superior quality at lower costs.

The major fabric imports are from People's Republic of China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Korea, Italy, and Pakistan. For their requirements, importers depend on different countries for different products.

Importers feel that China is the most popular place for procuring fabrics as it produces quality fabrics at flexible prices. Taiwan is their choice for knitted goods like fleece, suede and velour. Though very expensive, they prefer to import poly wool fabrics from Italy considering its high quality. Pakistan, with its strength in cotton products, is importer's destination for procuring denim fabric, while Thailand is preferred for import of smaller lots.

Generally, heavy products like canvas, denims, heavy drills, etc. are not imported, since the fabrics occupy more space and weight, which result in additional transport charges.

Various reasons for import of fabrics

The various reasons attributed by the garment units for importing fabrics was compiled, which are listed below:

• Comparatively lower cost of imported fabrics.
• High fluctuations in the cost of fabrics due to constantly fluctuating yarn prices.
• Outdated dyeing techniques adopted by the decentralised wet processing units resulting in improper dyeing.
• Inconsistency in quality, erratic delivery schedules maintained, poor customer service offered and

• lack of professional marketing skills among local manufacturers.
• Lack of fashion forecasting and non-availability of hi-fashion fabrics in the decentralised sector.
• Use of poor quality raw material (yarn) by the decentralised powerloom sector for fabric manufacturing.
• Non-availability of speciality fabrics and fabrics with various coating and special finishes.
• Lack of organised effort towards creation of new designs.
• Non availability of good quality wider width fabrics in the decentralised sector.
• Poor quality of local fleece fabrics compared to that of imported ones.
• Lack of modernisation of machinery, with the decentralised powerloom sector not having sophisticated machines.
• More fabric shrinkage problems associated with indigenous fabrics.
• Non-availability of trained manpower in the weaving and wet processing industry.
• Longer delivery periods for local manufacturers due to their dependence on decentralised production units.
• Buyer's insistence.
  
  
  

Materials and methods

Garment industries using imported fabrics for manufacturing garments were approached and some of the fabric samples used by them were collected.

Information regarding various aspects of the fabrics used by them was collected, classified into different categories and various quality parameters analysed, in order to suggest ways to improve their quality to match the requirements of the garment industry.

Results and discussion

About 50 indigenous and imported fabric samples were collected from the garment units and they were tested for their physical and chemical properties.

Physical properties of fabric samples

• The presence of starch and PYA finishes influences the strength characteristics of the fabric like tensile, tear and bursting strength. Fabric drape and stiffness characteristics are also influenced by fabric finishes.
• The shrinkage values were found to be similar for both imported and indigenous samples and within tolerance limits in all cases. The pilling ratings of imported fabrics are better as compared to that of the indigenous fabrics.
• The Indian suiting fabrics are generally manufactured using 2 ply yarns for warp and weft, whereas in imported fabrics single yarns are used. This may be due to rich raw materials being used to spin yarn using latest machines by the manufacturers in the other countries.
• Indigenous fabric samples show better tensile strength, tearing strength and bursting strength. This may be due to the presence of starch, PYA and finishing agents in these fabrics.

Chemical properties of fabric samples

All indigenous P/C, 100% cotton fabrics are almost similar to that of the imported fabrics in terms of properties like colour fastness to washing, perspiration, rubbing, light, dye transfer to storage are concerned.

The indigenous fabrics are also found to perfectly satisfy the buyer's requirements. An aspect that fabric manufacturers need to take additional care is in maintaining consistent shades and better finishing.

All the imported samples used in this study are dyed with reactive dyes whereas some of the indigenous samples are dyed with the costlier vat dyes and the fabrics so dyed are found to have good colour fastness properties. The reactive dyed imported fabrics meet all the quality requirements equal to that of indigenous vat dyed fabrics.

Corduroy: Finish identification shows that starch, PYA and anionic finishes are present in the indigenous fabric, whereas no finish is present in the imported fabrics. Both the fabrics are dyed with reactive dyes.

100% cotton shirting fabrics: Finish identification shows the presence of starch, PYA and non-ionic finishes in both indigenous and imported fabrics. Reactive dyes are used in both the cases for dyeing.

100% cotton suiting fabrics: In imported samples starch and PYA are used for finishing. In indigenous samples starch, PYA and anionic finishes used. Both reactive and vat dyes are used in both the samples (indigenous and imported samples).

Poly wool fabrics: In poly wool samples all the colour fastness properties are on the lower side for imported samples. Starch, anionic, PYA finishes are used in imported wheras PYA and anionic finish is used in indigenous fabrics. Disperse/vat dye is used in indigenous samples whereas disperse/reactive dyes are used in imported samples.

Polyester/cotton shirting and suiting: Finish identification shows the presence of nonionic finishes in imported fabric whereas starch, PYA and anionic finishes are present in Indian fabrics. Dyestuffs are similar

in both the imported and indigenous fabrics.

General suggestions for fabric quality improvement

The following points were suggested by the garment units for improving the quality of indigenous fabrics.

• Decentralised units should be vertically integrated.
• Overall fabric quality improvement is required in all aspects.
• A scientific, professional approach is required in the weaving and wet processing units.
• There should be proper follow up of yarn quality standards for producing fabrics in the decentralised sector.
• Care should be taken by the manufacturers to control common complaints regarding fabric shrinkage.
• Wet processing units are to be modernised with continuous dyeing process to get consistent shade of the fabric.
• Skilled technicians are to be employed in the decentralised powerloom sector.
• The decentralised powerloom sector should invest in development of new designs.
• Reduction in cost of production and lead time has to be achieved by the indigenous manufacturers.
• Need for accurate designs in case of weaving using latest shuttleless weaving machines with electronic dobby and jacquards.
• Composite units are to be developed for bringing down the costs (All under one roof concept).
• Proper and accurate weight per square metre (GSM) should be achieved in the case of knitted fabrics.
• Proper raising techniques should be followed with imported machines for producing polar fleece fabrics.
• Machinery manufacturers in India should gear up to manufacture weaving and processing machines that will match the quality of imported ones.

Conclusion

• Majority of imports are taking place from China, which produces all varieties at lower cost.
• India is ranking 5^th in the production of man-made fibres. Man-made fabric imports 'had increased from 98.5 million square metres in 2003 - 2004 to 164.8 million square metres in 2005 - 2006 due to decreased prices.
• Statistics show that there is a steady increase in imports after the phasing out of quota.
• Import of fabrics by the various garment units varies from 5% to 100%. Of the total fabric requirements of the garment units in India, about 20% of woven fabrics and 10% of knitted fabrics are imported.
• The main sourcing of 100% cotton knitted fabrics is done locally. The production rate at Tirupur is acceptable and the fabrics are equally good in meeting the quality requirements as the imported ones.
• The powerloom sector contributes 60% of country's total fabric production whereas the mill sector's contribution is only 4%. Because most of the fabrics in India are produced in the decentralised powerloom sector, higher width fabrics and creative new designs are scarcely available.
• The general reasons like high power and labour cost, low labour productivity, lack of marketing and low level of technology adopted by the decentralised sector contribute to the higher price of fabrics that are produced indigenously.
• Most of the composite mills in India have forward integrated. Hence, the majority of the processed fabrics produced by them are consumed by their garment units.

• Medium and small level garment companies have to depend on either fabrics from powerloom weavers or resort to importing their fabrics.
• The major garment manufacturers, who produce branded products make long-term understanding with the large composite mills to procure fabrics matching their requirements.
• The knitted garment manufacturers mostly source their fabrics from Indian companies except specialised products such as polar fleece, waffle, Iycra jersey, etc.
• All physical and chemical properties of indigenous as well as imported fabrics are found to be equally good.
• The consistency of fabric dye shades are better in imported fabrics as compared to indigenous fabrics. To improve dye shade consistency, there is an immediate need for local units to follow the continuous processing technique and use computerised colour mixing machinery.
• To reduce import of fabrics by the garment industry, the weaving and processing sector should be strengthened further.
  
  

Acknowledgement

The authors are thankful to the garment units for participating in the study and providing necessary information for the survey. They are also thankful to Ms Indra Doraiswamy, Research Adviser, SITRA for her valuable suggestions and guidance during the study and preparation of the report. Our special thanks are also due to the staff of physics, chemistry, knitting and weaving divisions for conducting various tests during the study.

References

1)    Statistical Details from Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics, Kolkata.

2)    Compendium of Textile Statistics 2005 - 2006 (Office of the Textile Commissioner, Mumbai).

About the Authors:

The authors are associated with the South India Textile Research Assciation, Coimbatore.

Appendix

List of Tables

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