Jeans are the most versatile, lived-in, and best-loved itemof clothing in history. It's hard to believe that annual sales of jeans make uppart of a $700 Billion global industry! Yes, jeans have been BIG business inrecent years. Jeans have clearly come a long way since their work-wear rootsand are now a well established wardrobe staple. In the UK alone, consumersbought no less than 86 million pairs of jeans in 2007, an increase of over 40%in the last five years. What is more, spending on jeans reached a massive 1.51billion by the end of 2007, a 4% increase on the 1.45 billion spent in 2006and some 32% up on 2002 figures.


In the US, an estimated 450 million pairs of jeans are purchasedevery year; making them a staple of the American wardrobe. Indeed, jeans arethe most widely produced piece of apparel in the U.S. Jeans have long been acyclical market being driven in the main by factors such as employment conditions,productivity, fashion trends, lifestyle factors, and celebrity endorsements. Manufacturersand retailers are constantly challenged to maintain the market by staying ontop of fads, changing tastes and consumer desires for different styles ofjeans. The U.S. jeans market is stable in 2008 after a profitable surge inrevenue earlier this decade. Although sales are not growing at comparablerates, the market remains in good shape. A failing housing market and generalrecessionary fears have slowed this market somewhat, but consumer surveyresults and a booming premium denim segment illustrate that jeans remain anessential component to U.S. consumer wardrobes.


Jeans manufacturers are responding by offering stylishjeans at all price points and at retail outlets ranging from mass merchants tospecialty boutiques.


Regardless of the color or style, jeans are subjected tosome sort of wash treatment to give the fabric a softer, smoother feel. Toproduce "stone washed" jeans - as the name implies - freshly dyedjeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with stones. Addingpumice stones gives the additional effect of a faded or worn look. The pumiceabrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particlesfrom the surfaces of the yarn. Pumice has been used since the introduction ofstone washed jeans in the early 1980s.


However, stone washing with pumice has some severedrawbacks. The quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control: Toolittle will not give the desired look. Too much can damage the fabric,particularly at the hems and waistbands. The outcome of a load of jeans isnever uniform, with a significant percentage always getting ruined by toomuch abrasion. The process is also nonselective. Everything in the washingmachines gets abraded, including the metal buttons and rivets on the jeans aswell as the drum of the washing machine. This substantially reduces thequality of the- products and the life of the equipment, and increasesproduction costs.


Acid washing jeans avoided some of these problems, but camewith added dangers, expenses, and pollution. Environmental regulations haveput intense pressure on the textiles industry to generate less pollution.Treating the wastewater and disposing of the sludge (i.e. used pumice orneutralized acid) represents a growing portion of the production costs for apair of jeans.


To overcome these drawbacks, a technique known as "biostoning"was introduced in Europe in 1989 and then quickly adopted in the US thefollowing year Biostoning relies on the action of enzymes to selectivelymodify the fabric surface. Enzymes have been used in the textiles industrysince the turn of the century to remove starchy and waxy residues from rawmaterials and to give fabric a uniform finish. The enzymes used in biostoningare known as "cellulases." (Note on scientific lingo: The ending "-ase"at the and of a word usually means that the molecule is an enzyme).


 

The gene for the cellulase enzyme was first isolated from the fungus Trichoderma reesei and then put into bacteria for mass production. Cellulases digest cellulose - the main component of cotton and other natural plant fibers. [Cellulose is a long, glucose polymer used as structural support in plant cell walls. We can't digest cellulase, but organisms like fungi and some bacteria can!].


Cellulases bind to the exposed cellulose on the exterior of each cotton fiber and break some of the molecular bonds. The process can be stringently controlled so that only the dye particles are loosened from the denim surface while the interior of the cotton fibers are left intact.


In the early days, one problem with biostoning was "back staining." Back staining happens when loosened dye particles redeposit onto the back surface of the fabric, causing discoloration. A reddening of the dyes sometimes occurred too. But maintaining the pH of the wash load between 6-8 has successfully controlled both problems. Today, biostoning can achieve the same effect as traditional stone washing but without the damaging abrasion of the fabric and equipment.


Biostoning is by far the most economical and environmentally friendly way to treat denim. Waste, pollution, quality variability, and imperfections are all reduced. And unlike pumice or acid, which get used up during the wash, enzymes can be recycled. A small dose of enzymes can replace several dozen pounds of pumice stones. So productivity can be increased by 30-50% because the room formerly taken up by the pumice stones in the washing machines can now be filled with more jeans. And there is no need for the time-consuming and expensive task of removing stone fragments from the jeans once the wash is done. There is also no pumice dust to endanger employee health or gritty sediment to dog drains. Nearly all jeans made today are finished by biostoning.


Cellulases and other enzymes used in the textile industry are available in a number of different varieties, each with its own special properties. This added dimension gives fashion designers the flexibility to create a wider range of shades and finishing effects. By selectively modifying the surface of the denim without damaging the fabric integrity, designers have a more liberal pallet to create new fashions possibilities For example, colorful logos can be printed onto metal buttons or leather labels without the fear of them being abraded away by pumice. And intricate designer accents made of non-cellulose fibers such as nylon or polyester will remain vibrant even after cellulase treatment.


So next time you sit down in your favorite pair of jeans to enjoy reading some biology, just remember: Even though the label says stone washed, stones aren't really used at all. Instead, when you see "stone washed," think of those industrious little enzymes made possible through the wonders of modern biology.