The 'Shirt' and 'Bed spread' with Geometrical Diamond whatyou see in the photos are recently developed in Weavers' Service Centre, Bangalore. The shedding system used to produce this designed Shirt and Bed spread is not any Jacquard or Dobby or even 8 healds. It is simply woven with the aid of 4healds and 6 treadles combined with a new formula used in Group drafting. TheNew Drafting system is named as "Stitched Colonial Group Drafting System"which is derived from the original Colonial Drafting evolved by Shri. Edward E.worst (12, 23, 34, 41- 4 Groups)
The salient feature of this new Group drafting system is itsself stitching of figuring extra weft by one end after every three ends both inface and back side. Where as, the extra weft in the original Colonial DraftingSystem, floats to form the figure. Hence in the original colonial draftingsystem each group can not be repeated more than certain number of times inorder to avoid lengthy weft floats. In the New Group drafting system, eachgroup can be repeated any number of times to produce required width of eachgroup.
The new 4 group Drafting System in 4 healds combined with 6treadles enables to produce two up two down Twilled 4 group design in anyrequired width and length in stitched extra weft principle along with plainweave in the ground. Manipulation of these 4 groups in pointed draft styleresults in all types of wavy Twilled motifs (2/2 Twill Based) by operating thetreadle groups in straight order and also results in various types of diamonds (2/2Twill Based) while the treadle groups are operated in pointed order as given inthe Table.
Effects Produced
| Operation of Draft Group | Operation of Treadle Group | Effect Produced |
| Group draft drawn in straight order | Treadle Group operated in straight order | 2/2 Twill effect in required width and length |
| -do- | Treadle Group operated in pointed order | 2/2 Twill based wavy Twill along effect in required width and length |
| Group draft drawn in pointed order | Treadle Group operated in straight order | 2/2 Twill based wavy twill across effect in required width and length |
| -do- | Treadle Group operated in pointed order | 2/2 Twill based Diamond effect in required width and length |
In the production point of view another advantage of thisNew Group drafting system is its possibility of weaving not only in frame loomwith tumbler lever reversing motion but also its possibility of weaving in pitloom with sample three roller reversing motion. This possibility of weavingboth in frame loom and pit loom can be very well made use to weave all Coarser,Medium and Finer varieties of fabrics.
The Shirt what you see in the photo is stitched from thecloth produced by using new group drafting system which shows that this newsystem is very useful to produce Geometrical twills, wavy twills and Diamondswhich in turn used to stitch any "Engineering Designed Garments" whenGraph Designer and Art / Fashion Designer exercise their imagination keepingthe customer's need.
Similarly all the furnishing materials like Bed Spreads, Pillow covers, Table mats etc., can be woven with these Designs along with plain weave.
New formula for 4 Group Drafting in 4 healds
- -1, 2, 1, 4, - Any No. of times
- -1, 2, 3, 2, - Any No. of times
- -3, 4, 3, 2, - Any No. of times
- -3, 4, 1, 4, - Any No. of times
I, II, III, IV, Group can be drafted
in Straight or pointed order.
Healds operation
4 Group treadling with 6 treadles
- -P1, A, P2, A, - Any No. of times
- -P1, B, P2, B, - Any No. of times
- -P1, C, P2, C, - Any No. of times
- -P1, D, P2, D, - Any No. of times
I, II, III, IV, Group Can be operated in straight or pointed order.
About the Author
The author is presently serving as Deputy Director (Weaving) at Weaver's Service Centre, Bangalore.
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