Abstract:

Ribbon embroidery has gone in and out of fashion since the1880s. Hence, the researcher felt need as an ideal locale for experimenting theribbon embroidery on khadi. Preliminary details comprised of fiber content,weight/unit area, width, fabric count. The designs were created manually on thesheets out of 45 designs, best preferred 9 were selected, 3 designs for eachcategory (I, II and III) were chosen for construction. After the collection ofpreliminary data of the garment and construction, a questionnaire method wasused to determine the acceptability of the garments. 30 College going girls agegroup 20-25 years were selected. New designs of ribbon embroidery in khadifabric were developed.

The present study aimed to find the acceptability of khadigarments embellished with ribbon embroidery. The study revealed that collegegoing girls were willing to accept the khadi garments with ribbon, embroideryas they were impressed with the innovation of these garments and opined thatthe range of khadi garments can work as a revolutionarizing step in the usageof khadi.

Introduction:

Fashionable Khadi wearers could not be regarded as advancingthe sentiment of Khadi. Person who possess attitude of simple consented lifewears Khadi. Weavers of khadi can produce and earn independently. Now a dayskhadi has become so popular and internationally renowned that fashion designeralso prefers to use khadi for brides. Clothes for special occasions are beingdesigned by designers all over world using khadi as fabric it gives magnificenteffect that people now prefer to wear khadi on any occasion. Khadi is not aproduct, it is a philosophy said by Gandhiji. Khadi production is veryharmless to environment, no electricity, chemicals or petroleum products are beingused in production.

Designers and artists pick up motifs from traditionaldesigns and incorporate them in their weaves and colour based on market demand.However, there is no doubt that stylized versions of ancient designs areenjoying a new impetus.

A wide range of Indian garments are available in khadifabric such as kurtis, salwaar kameez and accessories but consumer is moredemanding towards the variety and novelty in clothing. Hence there is a needfor embellishing garments in innovative ways to create variety and produceattractive items.

An intensive market survey by the investigator revealed thatgarment line in khadi is designed by using mirror work or gota work with threadembroidery. Due to the dearth of stylized clothing in Indian Khadi hence,researcher got inclined in creating newer designs by embellishing it with satinribbons.

Ribbon embroidery or ribbon work is a particular orindividual interpretation, version on treatment of a style. It is a visuallook and shape given to a certain object, in order to make it more attractive,make it more comfortable on to improve other characteristics.

Present study aims to bring innovative changes in khadigarments for value addition by providing new and appealing looks to them.

Keeping the above points in mind following objectives wereframed:

1. To develop design on Khadi fabric embellished with ribbon technique.
2. To construct the garment.
3. To find the consumer acceptability in terms of aesthetics.

To carry out the present study following steps were undertaken:

Phase I - Review collection, the market survey and developments of garmentsketches was done.

Phase II - Comprised of final sketches, selection of materials and constructionof garments.

Phase III - The acceptability of the products was analyzed the thirdphase.

For developing the new range of khadi garments embellishedwith ribbon work, preliminary survey was carried by an interview schedule.Method, the sample size was 30 for college going girls age group 20-25 years.The data was collected frequency mode and analyzed for clear interpretation ofresults.

For theacceptability and marketability of these stitching and embellishment garments,questionnaire method was selected to determine the best preferred garmentscollege going girls age group (20-25 years) were selected.

Major Findings of the Study

Majority of the respondents (80%), liked to wear khadi garments. Only 20% respondents were not interested in khadi garments.

According to 66% respondents khadi garments were not aesthetically pleasing. 30% respondents said that variety is less in khadi garment; where as 20% respondents said that khadi garments are not available as per fashion trends. 60% people also mentioned that texture and quality is poor.

Out of the total 90% respondents said that the variety of khadi garments is not available in market. Only 10% respondents agreed that variety of khadi garments is available.

The majority i.e. 53% of the respondents prefer to wear suit. Next preference was given to skirt (50%). 46% respondents like to wear khadi trousers.

Majority of the respondents (85%) would like to wear garments with some embellishment to enhance the look of khadi garments. Only 13% respondents liked to wear plain khadi with constructional detail because of simplicity and elegance.

100% respondents preferred cotton khadi. 56% like poly khadi and 33% like silk khadi because of lusture and royal look but it is costly. Woolen khadi was least preferred. Only 27% respondents like woolen khadi.

It is clear from the analyses that maximum preference (70%) was given to plain fabric. And 30% was given to other fabric like check, printed and stripe.

Most of the respondents preferred (73%) casual garment because of its multipurpose and it can be worn at many occasions and places. 26% respondents would like to wear khadi for formal.

Hence it was found that an elaborative range of colours was in demand by the consumers. 74% respondents preferred white colour while 63% respondents preferred black colour. 46% respondents like brown colour specifically for lower garments and 36% liked blue colour. 60% respondents preferred orange colour and 50% respondents preferred pink colour.

Consumer preference for the type of embellishment was determined. 40% preference was given to embroidery in khadi garments for creating surface interest. 16% respondents like accessories (Button, stones) and 13% respondents like sequins. 10% respondents like painting. Tie and Dye and mirror both embellishments preferred by 6% respondents each.

Majority of the respondents (87%) liked the motif of design D1a and 83% respondents liked the color combination of ribbon and fabric 76% and 67% respondents liked the designing and the way of embellishment respectively. Appearance of ribbon work was preferred by 100% of the respondents.

It was found that design D2a is most preferred design in D2a. The motif and its placement were preferred in the following order 86%, 64% respectively. D2a was also preferred for its color combination of ribbon and fabric, design suitability of the garment 83% of the respondents preferred due to its appearance and 80% owing to the way of embellishment 90% respondents liked D2b for its fabric quality and D2c was preferred by the 93% respondents for its colour. Hence, the design D2a was liked by majority of respondents.

In the category D3, type of motif and its placement on the fabric was liked cent percent of the respondents of the D3b. 67%, 47% and 67% respondents preferred the design D3c for its fabric quality, color and combination of fabric and ribbon respectively. It was also appreciated for its appearance and the way of embellishment by the respondents, respectively. D3b is liked for its design suitability by the 63% respondents. It was analyzed that trousers made by khadi will not aesthetically appealing.

The quality component was appreciated by majority of the respondents for design D1c, D2b and D3c. Hence, it can be concluded from the data that D1a, D2a and D3c are the best preferred designs by the respondents. 61%, 66% and 54% respectively. Majority of the respondents (90%) said that the garment were suitable as per the cost of the garment and 10% respondents said that designing of the garment was suitable for the garment but the cost was found to be more.

SELECTION OF DESIGNS