Eco-Textiles: An Approach to Green Consumerism

Source: &sec=article&uinfo=<%=server.URLEncode(2166)%>" target="_blank">Textile Review

Consumers are now much concern about the greenactivities. They choose products which are non-toxic and cause no harm to boththe human society and the environment. This tendency for eco-friendly productshas been extended to textile and apparel products, particularly those productswhich directly come in to contact with the skin for prolonged period

Consumers are becoming increasingly very much conscious toenvironmental friendly consumer goods. They are now much concern about thegreen activities. They choose products which are non-toxic and cause no harm toboth the human society and the environment. This tendency for eco-friendlyproducts has been extended to textile and apparel products, particularly thoseproducts which directly come in to contact with the skin for prolonged periodof time. These products include clothing, towels, bedding, hats, wigs, diapersand other sanitary products, footwear, gloves, chair covers, toys, watchstraps, belts, purses etc.

The buyers from European and U.S have given muchconsideration to this ecological interest of the people and have establishedcertain requirements from the ecological point for their textile and apparelproducts. The textile and apparel manufacturers have been instructed toevaluate the each and every stage of the supply chain and life cycle of theirproducts and have been encouraged to minimize the various hazards that thoseproduct would pose to the human society. They have been also instructed to givespecial and careful attention in the selection of dyes and chemicals which arelow in formaldehyde content, free from pesticides and heavy metals etc.

1. pH value

pH is a measurement scale to indicate the level of acidityand alkalinity in a product or process. The scale ranges from 1 to 14 where thepH value 7 indicates the neutral condition, below 7 indicates acidic conditionand above 7 indicates the alkaline condition. Human skin is having a coatingwhich is slightly acidic, which inhibits the growth of many diseases. Textileswhich are having neutral pH level or slightly acidic are friendly to our skin.Textiles with extreme pH level may cause allergy.

2. Formaldehyde

In the easy-care finish of textiles, formaldehyde is used ascross-linking agent along with an artificial resin. This finish is done toavoid shrinkage so that the fabric is given a crease resistant, smooth, dry andsoil release finish. The formaldehyde may present in the textile or apparel inresin form or free from. These may cause the release of formaldehyde whichcould harm human health partially giving strong irritation to mucous' membranesand the respiratory path. Skin inflammation and chances of cancer are alsopossible because of the formaldehyde content. Many countries have restrictedthe emission of formaldehyde for many products particularly in textile andapparel.

3. Extractable heavy metals

Certain dyestuffs and chemicals which are used in thetextile processing field may contain heavy metals. Sometimes, natural fibresalso having the traces of heavy metals which are absorbed by the plants fromthe artificial fertilizers through soil or air. During the dyeing and finishingprocess also there is a possibility of heavy metal could be brought in thetextile products. The heavy metals which are extractable from the products areAntimony (Sb), Arsenic (As), Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Mercury (Hg), Copper(Cu), Chromium (Cr) Total, Chromium (Cr) VI, Cobalt (Co), Nickel (Ni), etc.

These metals tend to mount up in the human part like liver,kidney, heart, bones and brain when they are absorbed in to our body from thetextile and apparels. The effect on our health can be terrific when theaccumulation of heavy metals reaches high level. For example, the nervoussystem will be affected by high level of mercury. Children tend to absorb theheavy metals more than the adults which put them to higher risk of healthproblem.

4. Chromium VI

Chromium VI is a by-product created during the leather tanningprocess which is undesirable. The presence of chromium should be controlledbecause of its character of strong oxidant and a heavy metal; it can poison theenvironment and human being.

5. Residues of pesticides and herbicides

In agriculture, during the cultivation and storage of natural fibres like cotton, linen, jute etc. pesticides are used to protect the fibres from insect, moths etc. Herbicides, which are defoliant chemicals, are used to eradication of weeds. The fibres could absorb these chemicals and this would continue to present in the product till to the finishing stage, though most of them might have been removed during the manufacturing process. More than 20 varieties of pesticides and herbicides have the characteristics of harming like aldrine, DDD, DDE, carbaryl, DDT, dieldrine, endosulfan, endrine, heptachlor, heptachloroepoxide, hexachlorobenzene, lindane, methoxychlor, trifluralin etc. The residue of these pesticides and herbicides are rated from slightly to strongly toxic to human and sometimes are very easily absorbed through skin. The pesticide Lindane has the property of causing cancer.

6. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and 2,3,5,6 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)

Textile products are tend to get attacked by fungi causes mould spots and to prevent this sometimes chlorinated phenols like PCP and TeCP are applied. These chemicals are very toxic and which can cause cancer to human. As these chemicals are highly stable and not easily decomposable, which remain harmful to human and the environment.

7. PVC Plasticizers-Phthalates

Softened PVC is used in some processes in textile wet processing particularly in printing because of their flexibility and feasibility. In order to make PVC soften, plasticizers are used and the most popular plasticizers are phthalates. Considerable quantities of phthalates can be released under stimulated mouthing conditions, which would be hazardous to young children particularly below 3 years of age. So European Union has banned phthalates in some children products.

8. Organic compounds

Organic compounds such as Tributyltin (TBT) and Dibutyltin (DBT) are commonly used in textile industry for various purposes. TBT is mainly used in anti-bacterial or anti-microbial finishing to prevent the bacterial degradation which would cause sweating and consequent odour it produces in socks, shoes etc. Dibutyltin is always used in finishing which acts as an intermediate for stabilization of PVC, catalyst for paints and in manufacturing of different types of polyurethanes. These are also toxic substances and when they are used at high concentration, can be absorbed through the skin and may affect the nervous system.

9. Azo/Carcinogenic/ Allergic dyes

Azo dyes are synthetic dyestuffs which contains the azoic group in their chemical structure are commonly used in textiles and under certain conditions the azoic groups may separate to produce carcinogenic and allergenic aromatic amines. Also some other dyestuffs for example 20 disperse dyestuffs are found to be allergenic and another 7 disperse dyestuffs are found La be carcinogenie. These dyes may be absorbed through the skins with prolonged skin contact.

10. Chlorinated organic carrier

These chemicals are used in textile dyeing particularly in dyeing of polyester with disperse dyes as auxiliaries. These chemical groups are harmful and may cause liver failure, irritation to mucus membranes, the skin, and may also cause reproductive disorders.

11. Biocides

These are used in textile finishing as antifungal or antibacterial agents. They are normally organotin or quaternary ammonium compounds which are toxic in nature may cause health problem.

12. Flame retardants

Flame retardant chemicals are used in the textile finishing to give flame resistance property to the textile fabrics. The commonly used flame retardant chemicals are 2,3 dibromopropyl phosphate, polybrominated bi phenyls (PBB) and polybrominated diphenyl ether (PBDE) and high concentration of these chemicals in textile may cause impairment of immense system, hypothyroidism, memory loss and joint stiffness.

13. Colour fastness (Staining)

Colour fastness is related to the degree of bleeding of colours from the textile while washing, rubbing, sweating, etc. The dyes or pigments with poor colour fastness may be released with sweat and could be absorbed through skin and may result in health problem. So improving colour fastness can reduce this risk and the commonly recommended colour fastness tests for textile are washing, rubbing, perspiration and saliva (for kids).

14. Determination of odour

Many chemicals used in textile processing have tendency to release odour. The residues of chemicals at higher concentration may cause health hazards like respiratory problem etc.

15. Release of nickel

Various metal accessories like buttons, zippers, etc. that are used in garments are made of alloys which found to be having nickel. These nickel presence may be allergic to some people when the accessories are in contact with body for a prolonged time and these may result in serious skin irritation. An order (Directive 94/27/EC) has been issued by European Union to limit the use of nickel. According to this order the following three methods are used for analysis of nickel content:

i) EN1810 ii) EN1811 iii) EN12472

Conclusion

Global warming is the serious issue that the world is now facing and the main reason for this is environmental pollution, which is contributed by many industries throughout the world. Eco-textile is a remedial measure that the textile and apparel industry that adopts to reduce this environmental pollution and its commitment to the ecological care. Each and every manufacture of textile should commit themselves to produce eco-friendly textile products which are the need of the hour, nowadays.

Eco-standards for textiles (for evaluation by the instruments)

Table 1: ECO standards on Textile production (max. permissible limits)

* If the evaluation of nickel as 0.5 microgram/cm2/ week

** According to the MAK-list (max. working place concentration).

Reference:

Intertek Testing Services, Hong Kong, 12/2001.

About the Author

The author is Lecturer in Dept. of Apparel Merchandising NIFT TEA College of Knitwear Fashion, Tirupur

Originally published in Textile Review: October 2009