Eighty percent of the countrywitnesses hot weather and even if north India witnesses winter, it lasts fornot more than two months," says Pradeep Hirani, owner of Mumbai retailoutlet Kimaya, told. "So it is a good shift. Orders are small, productionwon't take much time and as a result retail outlets will get new designs everythree months, which is a very good thing, keeping in mind how fashion forwardtoday's consumer is," he added.

So this year, keeping the domestic market in mind, LFWorganisers had taken a collective decision to present a Spring-Resortcollection instead of an Autumn-Winter one during the five-day fashion eventfrom March 5 to 9. At fashion shows the world over, an Autumn-Winter collectionis presented early in the year and a Spring-Summer edition in the latter part.But Hirani feels the Indian fashion market is so huge and so creative that itneed not follow the international fashion week formula. "In the West, theyhave extreme summer and extreme winter. We don't have that here; so what is thepoint of following their standards?" he asked. "We don't have to goby international fashion weeks because our fashion caters to the domesticmarket and that is where designers make business. This is the time to show ourattitude and our identity," he said.


This year the Bollywood quotient at LFW was low compared toprevious years, making it a more designfocused event. Among the designers whoparticipated were Manish Malhotra, Narendra Kumar, Malini Ramani, Rocky,Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Satya Paul, Shantanu and Nikhil, Suneet Varma and VikramPhadnis, among others. In all, no one is complaining about the seasonal shift,but its effect will be seen in the next season.


The Stitch Times is pleased to share what important collections were showcasedat the Lakme Fashion Week, held from 5 through 9 March, 2010 at Mumbai,without, however, implying that other collections were not so impressive.


Pria Kataria Puri's Fashionable Ode to Maharani Gayatri Devi


Maharani Gayatri Devi's beauty and style is unparallel inthe world of fashion. Little wonder therefore that Pria Kataria Puri'scollection at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010 was called "The RoyalRajputana Collection". It was resort haute couture from a designer who isknown for her striking colourful creations.


Staying true to her muse, Pria's line of luxurious garmentswere in a rainbow of dazzling hues, that ranged from creamy pearl, smoky andgolden topaz, aquamarine, turquoise, coral, red, emerald and onyx which weremade from feminine flowing fabrics like silk, chiffon, tulle, satin, jersey andEgyptian cotton.


Show stopper Bollywood glam girl, Mughda Godse ended theshow in a dazzling slim orange lehenga, choli and net dupatta, Splendour infashion can only be created by Pria Kataria Puri and her Gayatri Devi inspiredcollection will be the ultimate style statement for any woman.

Riyaz Gangji's Debut Collection Made a Creative Glamrous Impact Riyaz Gangji, creator of the Libas label has dressed the top celebs of Bollywood and society. His collection for men and women was a relaxed comfortable line for both sexes. Men's wear started with linen pants, waistcoats, jackets and lean trousers with controlled embellishments. There was interesting detailing like cutwork or embroidery on the predominantly ivory collection that revolved around resort comfort wear. The women's wear was a line of glamorous satin, gowns with detailing like pleats, cowl necks, Grecian drapes, cut-away detailing for sexy ultra evening wear glittering with diamantes. Fabrics were textured and weave-centric with chiffon, satin, georgette, linen and cotton and the colours moved from pastel beige and mint to a hint of purple and coral. Show stopper, Pooja Bedi made a dramatic entry in an ivory net and satin draped gown sprinkled with sequins and a dazzling diamante cummerbund.


Riyaz Gangji's collection for both sexes was a mix of style and elegance perfect for the coming summer season.


Sabyasachi Mukherjee's Exciting Global Fashion Tour


The venue was lit with tiny fairy light streamers from the ceiling as Samira Resorts presented one of the most exciting shows of day one by Sabyasachi Mukherjee. From the colours of Africa with inspirations drawn from Sudan and Ghana for an African look, then onto the American underground years of the 70s and finally a visit to Paris of the 1920s; Sabyasachi took the audience on a grand global fashion journey at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/ Resort 2010.


Presenting a practical easy to wear mix and match look the designer gave fashion an ethnic yet contemporary touch bringing back some old favourites of the past like elasticized skirts and long line Tees. The stunning hues of the African continent, the American inspirations and the Parisian touches came together effortlessly in the whole collection which was a feast of fabrics, patterns, embellishments and simple elegant silhouettes. The colour story was muted with shades of ivory, brown, teal, rust, and indigo, with touches of orange and large doses of gold and silver embroidery.


Models emerged with trousers, skirts, blouses, jackets and scarves all in one entry which all came together seamlessly. The shapes were lean and long with tubes and extended tees in a mix of fabrics like chiffon, georgette, khadi, cotton, lace and silk which was a harmonious blend of textures - very often in a single garment. With so diverse a fashion story from formal to casual wear, Sabyasachi Mukherjee proved that he is the master of any genre of fashion which will cater to his loyal admirers' needs.


Sabah Khan Comes up with Funky, Quirky and Wacky Collection


For something very funky, quirky and wacky, Sabah Khan showed a colourful cotton collection of separates with prints of women on the blouses, skirts and dresses as the focal point of the line. Colour blocking played an important part of the sun dresses which were often teamed with churidars or pants. While appliques added excitement to the long bubble tops with maxi bias skirts, patch work also came into the collection which at times had the retro French musketeer influence or a touch of harlequin fun aspects.


 

Manish Malhotra Wove His Creative Traditional Magic


Inspired by the sea side holiday resort of St Tropez, Manish celebrated the beauty of his country, and worked with fabrics and silhouettes but gave them a young peppy stylish twist. Kurtas were one shoulder in shape, and while the dupatta went missing, there was luxurious layering. Leggings with sparkling touches were important to Manish which he teamed with kurtas. Colours were pastel with a hint of shading, while net as the base fabric, worked for a pair of dhoti pants and sheer floor length covers over sexy bikinis and transparent anarkali kurtas.


There was a distinct partiality towards the bundgala around which Manish showered his creativity. Trousers were cowled and comfortable for men's wear in different textures. Casual wear moved from white shirts with billowy sleeves to T-shirts and pastel coloured bundgala jackets with a variety of collars and closures which ranged from one to two buttons and clusters of three. Contrast piping edged collars, pockets and plackets giving the garment a contemporary feel.


Asmita Marwa's Collection was a Globe Trotter's Delight


With Boho Resort as her inspiration, Asmita Marwa's uniquely titled line "Maya 0 36'0"S/73 6'0"E" was for the jet setting woman. Checks, tie and dye and shades of resort colours appeared on muslin, linen and chiffon. Keeping the silhouettes fluid and flowing, there were touches of Turkish shapes and Indian aspects with Kalamkari and dazzling tones like red, mustard, yellow, olive and earth hues as they came together with neutral black, beige and ivory large checks and smoking rose prints.

Jumpsuits, skirts, loose flowing ponchos, halter sun dresses, kaftans and draped tops were detailed with interesting yokes, layering and attached side pockets while crushed asymmetric tunics and skirts should be great summer buys. The first group of red and white and black and white linen block checks was turned into maxis, swirling tops, mini with recycled fabric fringe and halter dress with rose knot and large rose appliques. With colour, style and creativity Asmita Marwa's Summer/Resort 2010 line will be a winner anywhere and at anytime.

Malini Ramani's Vibrantly Exotic Resort Line


Known for her sexy seductive creations with the love goddess look, Malini's vibrant garments revealed in five different stories brought together the beauty of the East with the West, to create as the designer claims, a hippie deluxe look inspired by Bollywood along with large doses of chic. Styling emerged from her favourite Moroccan kaftans look to the ethnic style of the Mayan and Aztec influences as multi coloured jumpsuits, striking sensuous gowns with touches of glitter to figure hugging cocktail dresses with tie-n-dye prints appeared on the catwalk. The look was pure summer resort wear and totally sensational.


Moving to the land of adventure Africa - Malini was inspired by the Grey Goose Zanzibar Temptation where digital zebra and snake prints on tunics and bandhini motifs in black, white and beige added drama for the sexy mini kaftans, sarong dresses, swimsuits and monokinis . For perfect resort wear the Grey Goose show by Malini Ramani, a master of this genre, will cater to the requirements of many buyers with this fabulous collection.


Paromita Banerjee had A Refreshing Rustic Youthful Range


It was an ode to Bengal and the handlooms of India from Paromita Banerjee. Called "The Laal Paar and Other Stories" the show revolved around a tale of muls, khadi, handlooms, silks, tussars, chanderi, gamchas, mix and match prints and gheras. With a mix of delicate floral and bird outlines including a rooster, the "Laal Paar" which is the traditional red border sari of Bengal , ran through the collection as the focal point of the garments.


Divided into three segments the show started with the "Off White Red Black Story" where kora hand loom tangail sleeveless dress with the Laal Paar red border was teamed with a ghera yoke dress. The kimono sleeve kaftan with temple border and the chanderi leaf green sleeve less tunic were sprinkled with floral and tree of life embroidery.

The final "Drape Story" had hints of Chinese baroque prints on kurtas and blouses. The silhouettes were loose and flowing and the mix of fabrics, embellishments and patterns made a pretty rustic collection from Paromita Banerjee for not only the Indian but international summers


Bollywood on Ramp at Satya Paul's Zippy Resort Show 2010


The collection from 25-years old label of Satya Paul was just perfect for the Summer/Resort 2010 season. With a title like "Zen, Zest, Zip, Zap and Zing" the show proved to be everything that the theme promised. Opening the show was the lovely Mandira Bedi in a green orange splashed sari with a flame red halter corset. Colours, textures and shapes in varied forms floated down the catwalk in an easy fluid mode. Crushed fabrics, textured tones of soft smooth easy silhouettes in pastels, ranging from blue, pink, peach, lemon and soft orange gave the saris and clothe the perfect mood for the season.


Puneet Nanda, the designer of the label cleverly dreamt up lehengas and saris in abstract designs while the fabric line up of organza, voile, georgette, crepe, satin, net, chiffon and brocade had the right touches of embellishments as mirror work twinkled and chikan work and aari embroidery, sequins and prints gave that glamorous fashion touch.


Anita Dogre Continued Her Love for Jaipur


It was the beauty of Jaipur that fascinated Anita Dongre once again for her two collections called "Jaipur Again". From her Anita Dongre Timeless label, it was a special offering of diffusion creations which could be mixed and matched as separates with her Anita Dongre Interpret line; so that the buyer can create a personal fashion statement. There was a predominantly all white mix of garments in the show with the Timeless Collection that reflected the beauty of Rajasthan architecture.


Kurtas swirled with gota embroidery, jackets added elegance and class, the cholis appeared in all their traditional glory, net and jersey with got a work was turned into sexy body suits, dresses and skirts were embroidered with the dazzling motifs of the desert region all beautifully blended to complete the collection.


Saris came in shades of palest of pink, blue and of course creme with twinkling work all over. For a summer wardrobe that moves from day to evening glamour Anita Dongre's two labels will cater perfectly to the needs of the fashion conscious globally.


Lina Tipnis's Collection Had Turkish Flavour


The beauty of the magnificent gems at the Topkapi Palace, the swirling Turkish dervishes, the beautiful blue Iznik tiles and the 14th century Grand Bazaar of the magical city of Istanbul was the inspiration of Lina Tipnis's collection titled "Istanbul Not Constantinople" at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010.


Blending all these intriguing facets of the Turkish capital, Lina's colour story was a neutral nude along with ivory and mahogany enhanced by rich colours of the semi precious gems.


Lina Tipnis scored a perfect ten with her Summer/Resort 2010 line which reflected the beauty of Turkey with the fabrics of India in just the right proportions.


Suneet Varma's Stunning Grand Finale Collection Was Extravagant


The Ballroom of the Grand Hyatt Hotel was draped with metres of fabrics cascading down from the ceiling in lush panels. Three giant silver globes rotated from the ceiling throwing twinkling stars on the walls. A windmill gently rotated to the left of the stage while a silver balcony on the right of the stage was reserved for Medieval Punditz Shai'r and Func who provided the most exciting live music for the show. As the show started, a white curtain slid back to reveal a tableau against a glittering Spanish mansion. It was time for the most spectacular show of Lakme Fashion Week Summer/ resort. 2010. Inspired by LAKME'S NIGHT FEVER Summer 2010 collections which comprised Enrich Satin Lip Color, Lip Artist, Eye Magic Black, I m pact Eyeliner, Lash Artist, Aquashine and Glide on Eye Color; Suneet Varma created a dream of a line aptly titled NIGHT FEVER that was a breathtaking vision to behold.

Presented in five segments the collection with the glitter of Swarovski Elements was a modern look at fashion. "Color My World" was filled with a blitz of colours mixed with patchwork and mix and match options. A glamorous array of creations - chiffon coat, easy tunics, draped dresses, were worn with colourful tights. Zigzag print coats and side knotted minis, panelled beach wraps, Spanish black floral tunic, long ponchos and embroidered jackets along with belts in large crystals and metallic armbands and necklaces completed the look.


"Call of the Wild" was an animal print, motif and texture story with colours like black, beige, chocolate and a bit of turquoise. Slinky evening bias cut gowns dazzled with peridots and topaz. Net kaftans, layered frayed edged skirts, tiny blouses and capes and stoles had tie-dyed, shading and Shibori. The glam turbans and gold bronze armlets gave a luxurious look to the creations.


"Pucchi Prints" was all about graphics and geometrics for minis with fabric buttons, hip length fitted jackets, skinny pants with slits and zips, and stately gowns in peach, cobalt, blue and emerald green. Hooded long gowns, psychedelic minis and kaftans along with pant suits were a colourful presentation.


"Preppy Argyle" had checks in purple, lilac, beige and black, featuring collared tunics, dresses, wide pants with high waistbands and sexy gowns. Saris appeared with tights and minis with stockings and ruffled net capes over golden gowns.


"The Bold and the Beautiful" line was a Hollywood Red Carpet inspired look for long will-power dresses, cowl creations and evening pant suits recreating the 70s and 80s eras. The slinky gowns in shimmering brown, black, and green and with floral appliques were sensational.


The show ended in a shower of gold confetti over the ballroom as the three faces of Lakme, Lisa Haydon in a slinky red black gown, Amrit Maghera in a black gown with a net cover and Indrani Dasgupta in a gold gown walked down the ramp with Suneet Varma to thunderous applause as Saturday Night Fever by the Bee Gees set the night rocking.


Suneet Varma's Night Fever extravaganza inspired by LAKME'S NIGHT FEVER Summer 2010 collections was one of the grandest events witnessed by the glitterati of Mumbai and a perfect conclusion of Lakme Fashion Week Summer/ Resort 2010.


Originally Published in the Stitch Times: May 2010