Introduction

Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Programme (IHCDP) is a commendable initiative aimed at fostering the growth of handloom weavers, transforming them into an organized and dynamic entity with enhanced capabilities to face competition at local, national, and international levels. Clusters programs have been introduced across the country to address the challenges of diversification, growth, and establishing a robust presence in the markets. The Indian Institute of Entrepreneurship (IIE) stands as a prominent organization dedicated to the development of Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs). Serving as the executing and nodal agency for the Imphal Cluster, IIE officially launched the program on 30th May 2006, with operations commencing in September of the same year.

The Cluster Development Executive (CDE) played a pivotal role in initiating the study of the region, examining trends, labor availability, and traditional techniques. This study highlighted discrepancies in the process, identifying one major challenge—the outdated dyeing techniques predominantly performed by individual artisans. This practice hindered productivity due to the limited number of artisans. Moreover, despite the genuine efforts of weavers and craftsmen, buyers were not fully convinced about the color fastness of the products. Recognizing this, it was evident that comprehensive training in dyeing techniques was essential for both weavers and dyers. To address this need, experts and necessary materials for training were brought in from Assam.

Fibre2fashion.com conducted a knowledge-sharing discussion with Mr. Md. Anwar Hussain, the Cluster Development Executive (CDE) of Imphal Cluster. He expressed immense gratitude towards the Government of India for its initiatives aimed at uplifting the region and society as a whole. The central government provided crucial support, including manpower, training programs, expert guidance, consortiums, and advisory assistance. The state government played a pivotal role in identifying individuals and procuring land for the Common Facility Centre (CFC).

Functionalities of the Cluster

Responding to the identified needs, dyeing workshops were established, focusing on both vegetable and chemical dyeing techniques under the guidance of experts. These experts served as knowledge providers for dyeing techniques. Exposure tours were organized for dyers and weavers to facilitate learning of new dyeing techniques. Gradually, productivity increased, and the cluster experienced a revival, addressing issues related to color fastness, quality, and diversity in colors.

Within a span of two years, the cluster witnessed significant improvement, leading to an enhanced standard of living for weavers. Their lives took a positive turn, providing them with the time, reasons, and means to enjoy a better quality of life. The intervention scheme by IIE played a crucial role in this transformation. Notably, the Imphal cluster is characterized by the active participation of women. Women in this region are actively engaged in handloom activities, handling responsibilities such as weaving, dyeing, bleaching, and dealing with end items and yarn. Women play a vital role in the day-to-day operations of both their households and the handloom industry.

The handloom industry has been playing a very important role in the economy of Manipur since long time. The major income is generated from Handloom activities. The traditional skill of handloom weaving is not only a matter of status symbol of the women folk in the state, but also is a crucial characteristic of their socio-economic life and is considered as the most vital and major small scale industry in the state. Weaving industry is the biggest employer of the state especially to the craftswomen.

Mr. Md. Anwar Hussain told us about the facilities provided to the weavers. He said that there are two components of the facilities, i.e., Hard and Soft. Soft component includes capacity building which involves Self Help Group (SHG) formation, making the weavers the members of the consortiums, training programme, Dyeing Houses for vegetable and chemical dyes, Market intervention in Delhi, Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Bangalore, etc., exposure to different clusters like Burdwan Cluster. There is also allied help like Health Insurance. The Hard component includes opening of Yarn Bank. They recently received ` 5 lacs from the Government, selling the raw materials at Mill Gate prices, i.e. 15% discount, installation of machineries, special purpose vehicle by putting ` 7 lacs. Total expenditure on the cluster amounts to ` 34 lacs.


Product Assortment


There is production of a variety of designs with different types of motifs, creative and striking blends of splashes. There has been a development of sixty two new designs which have added new to the Manipuri textiles. Currently, there are diverse varieties of Cotton, Muga, Tassar, and Eri yarn that are available in the Yarn Bank at very low and nominal prices offering a competitive quality unlike the local markets. The weavers are now satisfied due to the construction of Yarn bank.

 

Highlights of the brighter side


  • Contribution in various trade fairs, exhibitions, buyer seller meets.
  • Guidance on product specification
  • Quality testing
  • Aptitude for market trend
  • Focus towards the products having good market acclaim
  • Sizes and designs of products are altered and varied uses are made possible to accomplish the requirements of different market fragments.
  • Cutting short the product range for better focus
  • The social network of the cluster is strengthened through various buyer seller meets, exhibitions, cluster visit, awareness programme and International Exposures with the hard work of the members
  • There is a product gallery displaying products worth ` 50000 for the promotion of the products of the cluster.
  • Yarn banks have lowered the cost of production.
  • Rising demand of the products has led sharp increase in the remuneration.

Throwing light on the developments of the cluster, Mr. Md. Anwar Hussain told that the Dyeing Section (Loom preparatory) has developed a capacity of 50 kilograms/ day. There is testing and marketing, colour fastness, Yarn strength tester, Display rooms for marketing, BIC (Business Information Centre), E-Marketing, Meeting Hall cum office for weavers and weavers and weavers and buyers.


Conclusion


Communicating about the satisfaction level of the weavers, Md. Hussain says, "I am fully confident and extremely positive about the initiative since there has been development and innovation to a great extent and weavers have also got a loan of ` 54 lacs for working capital and purchase of raw materials".


The cluster Intervention has made the cluster a glare of publicity that delivers new designs and patterns for daily habitat and along with that it also reveals the individual's guise towards style. Imphal Cluster surely provides numerous varieties of magnificent arts budding from cultural and fashionable products like sarees, blouses, dress materials, home fabrics and furnishings. It's definitely a home for people who love to possess quality products.


Reference


www.indianhandloomscluster-dchl.net/