Barabanki handloom cluster produces wide range of products, which arehighly demanded worldwide as well as in domestic markets. It is the heart ofZari and Applique cut- work.


Barabanki Cluster falls under Uttar Pradesh State in Barabanki district. There are around 50,000 weavers and 20,000 looms at Barabanki andadjoining area. In addition, there are number of traders and auxiliary supportproviders. The annual turnover of Barabanki cluster is projected to be Rs. 150Crore. The main products are Scarves, Shawls and Stoles, which have a goodexport market. The mobilization of resources and labour is gaining impetus producingrefined results day by day.

 
Raw Materials:

BasicRaw Material: Silk, zari, cotton, polyester, jacquard loom, dori, etc.

DecorativeMaterial: Peacock feathers

ColoringMaterial: Bukani (colour powder)


About95% of the revenue of this handloom cluster is exportable. Most of the servicesare contracted out by cluster players in order to meet huge demands in alimited time period. The Barabanki cluster provides for scarves and stoles and someof the designs have exportable significance in some of the Middle East andEuropean countries. Dyeing techniques of the cluster have shown improvement andnumerous dyeing houses have been established so far for quality upgradation.


Process:


Initiallythe design is handrawn on the paper and then shifted from paper to the yarn toweave through warp and weft. This Jaal effect is hovered from top of the loomand attached to the warp threads and only the controlled warp threads are elevatedas per the design. Extra weft threads of zari/ silk are inserted in the raisedportions, row by row, along with the running weft thread.Jala device has beenreplaced by the punched cardson; the jacquard looms for these brocadedecorations. Gyasar the Tibetan woven offerings are very closely woven. Apartfrom the silk/zari thread peacock feathers are used in a satin weave to producean entire surface of the feathers. The motifs are rushed on different colourslike dark red, yellow, blue and white satin ground with use of gold and silverzari.


Appliqueand Cut technique


ChikanEmbroidery is characterized by the art woven by white threads. It can be weavedfrom the front as well as back of the cloth. Some stitches are worked from thefront of the fabric, others from the back. There are mainly six types ofstitches that are done for the Chikan embroidery purpose.

Pulledwork (known as jaali), which means a gap with a prickled web, peeping throughwhich we can see the other side easily, and khatao, applique-and-cut technique,where one section of fabric is hemmed on to another piece and afterward cutaway.


Those days were history when Barabanki cluster was only known for lungis or gamchas. Today, the cluster offers exquisite range of products like scarves, stoles and shawls. In straight lines, geometric patterns and bold designs, Barabanki yields carry a blend of fragility with concrete yet supple mix in textiles. The stoles and scarves are highly in demand by the customers from Middle East and Europe. Speckled uses and dark shades on the upholstery fabrics is an added option of specialty products from this cluster. Be it anything like curtains, bed spreads, bed sheets, covers shades, or merely window dressings, textiles from Barabanki has left an unblotted mark in the minds of the customers from around the globe.

 

Values working success


  • There is a large local market which carries huge demand for its traditional artistries
  • Increasing global demand
  • Scope of market opportunities in Latin America for priced products
  • Large number of skilled artisans who perform art on variety of clothes
  • Quality nurturing competition in the market
  • Low-price hand made textiles available in different varieties
  • Customization on demand
  • Tax and Duties benefits
  • Accomplishment of Baba Saheb Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna under the Development Commissioner for wellbeing of craftsmen
  • A Brand Name in itself
  • Easy availability of lost cost raw material and low transportation cost


Areas of Challenges


  • Obsolete technology barriers and competition with machine made products
  • Scarcity of funds
  • Unskilled workers and lack of technical support
  • More time consumed in production process and emphasis laid on low quality products
  • Low Exports
  • Sudden change in Government Policies such as Excise Duty and Trade Tax
  • Lack of Co-operation and communication among manufacturers
  • No fixed time for delivery of goods
  • Unorganized sector and cluster, lacks marketing and advertising
  • Less usage of efficient amenities related to technology such as Computer, CAD, Internet and Email etc.


Conclusion


There may be as many clusters developed in the country but Barbanki do and will keep holding a much superior place in the hearts and minds of customers as it has the potency at any moment, to match the styles and complicated knits that observe the eyes and

attention of the spectator. We can anytime look out for Barabankis famous stoles, scarves and shawls for daily purpose and explore the completely out of the world array of designs and outfits.


Reference


www.indianhandloomscluster-dchl.net/