Linen fibre comes from the bark of the flax plant and is probably the first fibre used by man, which is often used in its natural form but sometimes get bleached or dyed. Linen dates back to the people who lived about 10,000 years ago.Fragments of cloth been discovered from fishing nets, burial shrouds of the Egyptian Pharaohs, textiles of Bible time.


Linen fabric well known for silky lustre, smoothness and high comfort value but having drawback for easy crushability and very high premium range. Hence, it is sometimes used in combination with cotton, silk, rayon & colonial combination with wool too. Fabrics with linen like texture & coolness but with good wrinkle recovery can be produced from manufactured fibres &blends. To enhance the property of linen & to create unique USP blend of Birla Cellulosic fibres done. The outcome of which is detailed below:


Property Brief:


VISCOSE

  • Made from wood pulp
  • Lustre vary from Very bright to very dull & can be controlled by addition of de-lustrants in viscose solution
  • Greater elasticity than cotton & linen
  • Creases easily although special crease resistant can be applied
  • Good conductor of heat hence appropriate for summer clothing
  • One of the most absorbent of all textile which even facilitates dyeing & processing
  • Do not get damages by weak alkali solutions but strong alkalis cause swelling of fibres and loss of strength.

MODAL

  • Easy care properties & stays soft even after repeated washes
  • Absorbs up to 50 % more moisture than cotton
  • Allows the skin to breathe hence very comfortable more than cotton
  • Takes more colour, colour fast, bringing out natural brilliance
  • Easy care properties
  • Ideal for intimate wears, soft table linens, towel & bathrobes, socks & stockings

EXCEL

More durable & stronger wet strength.
  • Machine washable & dryable
  • Soft, strong Absorbent
  • Fibrillated during wet processing to produce special textures
  • Excellent wet strength
  • Wrinkle resistance
  • Very versatile fabric dye able to vibrant colours, with a variety of effects and textures
  • Can be hand washable
  • Simulates silk, suede or leather touch
  • Good drapability


Methodology:

  • Making the cotton, modal, viscose & excel fabrics in blend with Linen
  • Developing blends of Viscose, modal, Excel with the Linen


NOTE: Weaving, Processing & quality check to be done under identical condition


Yarn Specifications:


Greige Fabric Specifications:


Observation:


  • Compactness: Excel > Modal > Cotton > Viscose
  • Fabric Stability: Excel is most stable of all
  • Drape: Cotton is the stiffest, whereas Viscose ~ Modal ~ Excel
  • Residual Shrinkage: Excel x Linen blend improves the wrinkle recovery Cotton > Modal > Viscose > Excel
  • Crease Recovery CRA: Excel is dimensionally more stable after wash
  • Abrasion resistance after boil wash: Excel x Linen blend is the best; weight loss is less, hence long sustainable appearance. Excel > Viscose > Cotton > Modal

CRUX...


Excel Linen Blend is more stable & has good crease recovery with sustainable appearance. Value loss, realisation & stability trend in, with-Linen Union blend is Cotton>Excel>Modal>Viscose. Excel Linen will be a solution to fulfil their entire requirement & create a separate identity in the fashion driven wear.


The author is associated with Textile Research & Application Development Centre (TRADC)