IndustrialTextile sector is considered as one of the famous player for pollutingenvironment. To save the environment, innumerable initiatives have been takenfrom governments and NGOs globally. That is why; more than 67 eco-labels are inthe textile market globally. The concepts for eco-label have been evolvingsince 1970s through saving environment elements - energy and fuel in Americancontinent. But eco-label was globally endorsed in 1992 at UNCED (UnitedNations Conference on Environment and Development) where governments agreed toencourage expansion of eco-labels and other environmentally related productinformation programs were designed to assist consumers to make informedchoices. Following Fig 1 explains types of eco-label, areas of implementation(national or international or continent specific), aspects considered (social,environmental, and/or health) and certifiers (first party, second party orthird party).
GOTSstands for Global
There are about 140 Eco-label worldwide and among the about 67 eco-labels (36 environmental, 12 sustainability, 6 health, 11 social/fair trade, and 2 disposal/recycle labels) for textile and clothing. Among them, some well established names are: Blue Angel, EU Eco-label, Nordic Swan, Oeko-Tex, Bule Sign, EcoMark, FairTrade, FairForLife, Green Circle, Green Label, Korean Ecolabel, Made in Green and GOTS, etc. Every label ensures specific activities of the most complex textile-clothing supply chain, except GOTS, which is considered as the most comprehensive eco-label in the global market. GOTS label examines every possible aspect of the supply chain (Fig 2) from fiber cultivation/production to final goods consumption. Every player and actor of the textile-clothing supply chain is under the strict control of GOTS to ensure integrity in all aspects of operations and services. Social, environmental, health, and disposal aspects integrity are under strong securitization of GOTS scheme.
The GOTS has harmonized a total of 4 different textile standards (Fig 3) and their related labels and 14 certification bodies are already approved to certify according to GOTS. Among certifying bodies, Institute for Market Ecology (IMO) is one of the leading certifying bodies from Switzerland and was the first one to be approved for certification.
Aims of GOTS are: to define requirements with worldwide recognition; to simplify sourcing through removing international trade barriers; to examine and ensure organic status of textile, from organic fields (raw materials) to final products through stringent control over environmental and social issues, and in other words, the standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibers.
Requirements for Company for GOTS certification: Use organic textiles (fibers, yarns, fabric) from a farmer/firm who is organic certified. Keep purchase documentations and records; Bookkeeping in order to verify the organic origin of goods (inputs/output reconciliation, mass balance, calculation, trace back lots and shipments), Processing, packaging, storage, and transportation of the goods in such a manner as to prevent contamination by prohibited substances, Cleaning and separation of any system areas that risk the organic integrity, Use chemical inputs (dyes and auxiliaries) and accessories which are GOTS-positive lists compliant and keep records, Efficient and smooth running of Water Treatment Plant (WTP) inside the units, Must fulfill social criteria and its records, Have an independent, licensed Third Party (e.g. IMO control) certify compliance with the GOTS Standard.
Conclusion:
From 2014, the accessories and trimmings, like cartoons and papers have to be certified by FSC/PEFC and poly bags and polyester labels have to be recycled. The most comprehensive organic label- GOTS is a complete package, which provides self-confidence to textile-clothing industries that they are environmental and social caring and ensure optimum use of natural resources. Chemical manufacturers are getting confidence that their produced chemicals are not anymore so environmental damaging through GOTS-positive list approval. Consumers who value social standard and environmental impacts, ensure that the products they are using made in the best possible way with minimum environmental impact, as no product can be made without effecting environment negatively. As Bangladeshi textile industry is based on cotton processing, the use and implementation of GOTS policies will contribute to make a country less environmentally polluted, and ensure social demand of their integral part-laborers.
About the Authors:
Mr. Abrar A Apu and Mr. Saood Quseem have been working for Institute for Market Ecology (IMO), based in Switzerland. They completed their MSc in Textile-Clothing from Niederrhein University of Germany.
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