The tropical lands of the south, or the Dakshina Kshetra as it is traditionally known, has its distinct traditional and cultural traits. The land of southern India covers states like Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh. Southern India had reasonably remained unaffected by the forays that have relatively influenced the fabrics of North India. Over the centuries, Southern India has preserved its primeval traditional art forms and handicrafts.
There are unlimited kinds of materials found and variety of weaving techniques in South India. At present, southern India can be proud of its traditional weaving techniques that have continued to flourish even after centuries have passed. It has come up as one of the foremost suppliers towards the textile prosperity and exports of the country. Southern India has undeniably vast textile wealth and abundant weaving regions.
From the typical 'Kerala sari' made from cotton fabric to the classic Kanchipuram silk of Tamil Nadu, from the famous Mysore crepe of Karnataka to the Himroo or Ikat of Andhra Pradesh; one cannot stop talking about the varied fabrics and the resultant products obtained from them. Let's start from the fabrics of Kerala.
Popularly known as the God's own country, Kerala has its own textile richness. The 'Karalakudi sari,' famous as the 'Kerala sari,' is a symbol of the rich culture and tradition of Kerala. It is handwoven and one hundred percent unbleached cotton cloths. It is well known for its fine quality weaving. The traditional design of this sari has a plain off-white body and one inch to 6 inches golden border or 'pallu.' Nowadays, this sari is available in checks, stripes, and a variety of patterns in the border with cotton and silk mixed fabrics.
The unbleached cotton handloom material known as 'kora' cloth is not only renowned in Kerala but has entered the international market also and is in great demand. Balramapuram in Thiruvananthapuram district is famous for its handloom fabrics in Kerala. Chennamangalam handlooms in Ernakulam district are also well known for both pure cotton and silk fabrics. Its uniqueness lay in its fine weaving and exceptional weft effects while weaving.
The saris from Kasargod in North Kerala can be called a work of genius. With its high-quality yarn and unique style of handweaving, it produces varied designs, color patterns, and is decorated with zaris and borders. A special kind of paste is applied to make the fabric tough and enduring. Koothampalli kasavu sari is produced by half fine zari. It is mostly purchased by middle-income earners as it can be very economical in cost.
Its beauty, durability and elegance have set it apart from silk produced in other cities of India or even of the world.
Silk is known as 'pattu' in Southern India. South Indian silk is considered one of the the best in the world! The area of expertise and the main characteristics of Kanchipuram pattu is the technique used in weaving. The sari is made strong by three ply weaving technique and by using thick zari threads; it creates an additional wrap and weft pattern. Threads immersed in gold and silver are also used in the making of many expensive saris.
Apart from the Kanchipuram silk, cotton is a main textile product of Tamil Nadu. It offers a wide range of options from the crude Chettinad cottons, saris of Salem, Rasipuram and Coimbatore to the superior gold edged cotton saris of Madurai. Fabrics woven in Karur are found in some of the finest stores in the world. Traditional pattu designs are now woven in cotton saris called 'Kalashetra' and is famous in Tamil Nadu.
Andhra Pradesh has variety of fabrics to offer. It is one of the elite textile hubs in India where the refined quality and most stunning fabrics are produced. The state has flourishing handloom industries which cater to the rising demands of its distinguished fabrics not only in India but around the globe. Some of the renowned fabrics of Andhra Pradesh are the Himroo, Ikkat, Uppada and Mangalari.
The exquisite artistic talent can be seen in the beautifully decorated and extraordinary designed Himroo saris. But the ikkat is the main limelight of Andhra Pradesh. The weavers of 'Puttapaka' are well known for weaving complex double ikkat's with novel designs. The ikkat saris with fine looking embellished borders are of immense value for the women folk in Andhra Pradesh. Uppada is pure and cheap cotton fabric and its saris are a delight for the foreigners who are mesmerized by its simple designs.
Vekatagiris are also well known for its simple gold borders along with the brocade pallus in Jamdani style. This fabric is nicely twirled cotton of 200 counts for wrap and weft. Apart from cotton, there are fabrics like Gadwals and Kothakotas which combines cotton sari with silk pallu. Moreover, the cotton silk saris of Paatur and Mangalari are much liked with their fashionable design that reflects the art of the weavers.
The 'Mysore crepe' finds its home in Karnataka. It is a nice dense crepe silk with zari used in borders and has attractive color combinations which are dyed after woven. In the ancient times Mysore was famous for producing beautiful chiffons and georgette. But Mysore silk still remains the hot favorite. Karnataka is also known for the not so traditional silk. These saris are less expensive as its not pure silk with narrow borders but are widely recognized.
The Molkalmuru saris and the Ilkal saris are the traditional saris of Karnataka. The Ikkal sari has three parts. The body of the sari is cotton. Art silk is used for the border and the pallu. Even pure silk is sometimes used instead of art silk.
The southern traditions are closely woven together to be overlooked. Today, an exciting textile scenario can be seen in cotton and silk fabrics down south. If a conscious effort to preserve our glorious textile heritage is made and a feasible market is constructed, southern India fabrics will stay as indispensable part of textile industry and people's lives.
References:
1. Hindu.com
2. Classicsilks.com
3. Mapsofindia.com
4. Webindia123.com
5. Wikipedia.org
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