Throughout the ages, the Earth has evolved, and the human race has developed, producing both natural and artificial fibers. Silk stands out as a natural fiber with a rich history. Even today in India, silk is considered a luxury item reserved for special occasions. However, many people are unaware of the process through which silk is obtained.
It is disheartening to learn about what happens to these tiny silkworms that produce the beautiful, shiny silk material. Silk is obtained through a process that ultimately kills these small silkworms. There are various types of silkworms, but Bombyx mori is primarily used for silk cultivation. These silkworms are kept in bamboo baskets and fed mulberry leaves. As the worms consume the leaves, they excrete a thick fluid, which is the raw silk.
A single silkworm cocoon can yield about 1000 yards of silk. However, it is challenging for silk manufacturers to obtain a single, unbroken thread of silk as long as the silkworm remains in the cocoon. To obtain silk, the cocoons are immersed in boiling water, which kills the worms and allows the extraction of long, unbroken silk yarn.
Kusuma Rajaiah from Hyderabad invested significant efforts to find an alternative method that would allow the production of silk without killing the silkworms. He was a technical expert with 25 years of experience in the handloom industry and conducted years of research. In 1991, he invented a technique for obtaining silk without harming the silkworms, marking the first such achievement in the world, known as Ahimsa silk.
Ahimsa silk was commercialized in 2001. This technique ensures no cruelty is done to the silkworms during the production or collection of silk cocoons. It derives its name from the Hindi word 'Ahimsa,' which means 'Non-violence.' This method does not involve killing the silkworms to extract silk, hence the name 'Ahimsa' to describe the process of obtaining silk. It is also known as peace silk.
To ensure that matured worms have gone, each cocoon is checked separately and then the manufacturing of silk gets started. It takes two months for spinning and another one month for weaving. In short, it takes 3 months to complete an order after the insect flies away. In a month approximately 2000 meters of silk can be produced.
Ahimsa silk is almost like the regular silk having the same qualities. However, its lustre is little less but, more soft compared to the regular silk. As it is more expensive than the regular silk, currently its market is limited. The regular silk cannot be replaced by it but, as more and more people are becoming aware of saving the environment and animals, the market for ahimsa silk will grow.
Kusuma Rajaiah who took the initiative of ahimsa silk also wanted to fulfill a wish of Mahatma Gandhi. During Gandhiji's time, he had written to the Silk Board to use non-violent methods to produce silk. After decades, Mahatma Gandhiji's message of Ahimsa is followed through ahimsa silks. Today, ahimsa silk is not only popular in India but in different parts of the world.
Countries like Germany, Israel, UK, U.S. and Europe are all potential customers of ahimsa silk. Garments produced using this silk fabric is imported by well know designers of the world who create apparels for celebrities and famous personalities. It is a matter of pride that designers have chosen ahimsa silk to create apparels for celebrities and the royal families.
Ahimsa silk is well liked by people believing in Jainism as they strongly believe in non violence. As this silk is eco-friendly, it is in demand among celebrities worldwide. In India, ahimsa silk contributes to a small percentage of the total silk output. Therefore, it has a niche market for people looking for eco friendly and high quality silk.
Although ahimsa silk is soft, graceful and comfortable fabric to wear, there have been few takers for saris, stoles or shawls made from this silk. The main reason for this is, people are fascinated by the shine and luster of heavy silk saris. And when it comes to shine, ahimsa silk is relatively less lustrous. Apart from shine, ahimsa silk is almost 1 times more costly than the traditional silk. It is expected that in future the market for this fabric will thrive in India.
Moreover, in contrast to the sericulture practice, uncultivated silk is also called ahimsa silk. The silk obtained from wild is also taken only after the silk moth has flown away from the cocoon. As a result long and unbroken silk is not obtained from the cocoons. Hence, wild silk is also called ahimsa silk as silkworms are not killed. Muga, Tasar and Eri are the products of wild silk in India.
Many garments for men and women are manufactured with ahimsa silk like dhoti, sari, stoles etc. in variety of colors. It is impossible to stop people from using silk as it has mesmerized people all over the world for ages. However, this innovative technique of ahimsa silk not only spares lives of thousands of silkworms but uses eco-friendly processes in manufacturing silk.
Ahimsa silk is a noble step towards creating an eco-friendly environment. In spite of its few limitations, for a peace loving person, Ahimsa silk would give the right value for money.
References:
1. Ahimsasilks.com
2. Thebetterindia.com
3. Thehindu.com
4. Greencrumbs.org
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