Consumers psychology in experiencing a garment has changed over a period of time. Fashion syndrome and aesthetics are viewed and valued differently under visual, tactile and functional aspects. In spite of changes occurred and events happened around us, the intention of a consumer to clean and refurbish his/her apparel for reuse still exists. Thus, wash care basics of a garment are important and indispensable chapter when one tries to emphasis on economic ways in using it for a prolonged time. The life span of an apparel product is governed by many factors. Character of fibre, fabric construction, weight, and different mechanical and chemical finishing methods are some of them. Though it appears a little complicated to take right care of apparel in laundering due to the non-existence of a uniform capsule, but a systematic and scientific approach can resolve the issue effectively by adopting the appropriate procedure and following the exact technique. Deviation due to ignorance/negligence often leads to loss in aesthetic and functional significance of an apparel product and ultimately results in dissatisfaction.

Fabric care basics

In today's fashion world, dark clothes dominate the platform especially the basics. Solid black, brown and navy are wardrobe essentials. But how do we negotiate with fabric fading? What are the laundering precautions to keep garments looking new? Here are few probable answers.

Causes of Color Loss

Quality of Dyes : Dye performance is determined by nature of dye and application method. Different types of textile substrates do play a major role in dye uptake mechanism. A mistake or mismatch in any of these can cause garments to lose/bleed color. Complaint of the consumer is the end result.
Temp. of wash : There is every chance of faster colour loss/bleeding if a garment is washed in water that is warmer than recommended.
Drying condition : It's a mistake to over-dry dark colour clothes or dry them at a too-high temperature.

Basic precautions to prevent fading of colours

Refer Care Labels: Before treating any garment, always first refer to the instructions on the care label. Symbols on garment labels are there for a reason and prolong the life of clothes.

Judicious sorting: Success in laundry starts with sorting items by fabric type, color and temperature of wash. Sort all laundry into five main groups:

Whites everything white, like underwear, t-shirts, handkerchiefs, etc.
Lights including striped whites, off-whites and pastels
Darks everything dark, like blacks, blues, browns
Brights reds, yellows, oranges, fluorescents
Delicates fine linens, lingerie, some synthetic fabrics

Also, Separate heavily soiled items from lightly soiled garments, and shake out loose dirt.

Turn Inside-Out: Turning garments inside-out before washing and drying reduces abrasion (a major culprit in fading) and prevents the dulling effect due to pilling.

Use the Right Products: Follow product instructions as carefully as one follows care label instructions. Avoid using too much or too little detergent, both of which can cause dulling.

Use Right Loading: Overloading the washer or dryer will not allow clothes to move freely, allowing for detergent deposits or poor rinsing/residue removal. Machines operate better when clothes are evenly distributed and balanced.

Water Temp. : Washing and rinsing in cold water protects darks better than warm or hot water.

Careful Drying : Over-drying (especially with lighter, lint-producing garments) can unnecessarily wear out dark colors. Remove slightly damp and leave them inside-out to dry.

Avoid Sunlight : Sunlight exposure, in drying or in storage, may destroy color. Best is to dry/store in shed.

Detergent system

Detergent systems in commercial laundering were traditionally been of five components i.e. (i) alkaline agent : to raise ph for cleaning (ii) detergent : for actual cleaning (iii) chlorine bleach : to destroy various coloured stains (iv) souring agent : to provide acidity and to lower ph back to acceptable level and (v) softener : to improve hand/feel. In the smaller capacity laundering, the alkaline agent and detergent are combined into one and/or the souring agent and the softener can be combined into one. This is leading to either four or three product system.
In recent days, low alkalinity laundering systems have been used by utilizing enzyme and more high-tech cleaning chemistry to substitute for old fashioned high alkalinity system. High-tech cleaning chemistry involves affinity (Hydrophilic-Lypophilic Balance i.e. HLB value of a detergent to handle oil, fat and grease), polarity (ionic nature of detergent i.e. cationic, anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric), surface tension (necessary to reduce surface tension to make water wetter), emulsification (to be able to suspend and disperse oil), and pH (power of hydrogen to increase the effectiveness of the cleaning process). Interestingly, the need of souring has been also been eliminated in simplified three product system of formulated detergent, bleach, and softener.
Experts used to agree that the best cleaning results were achieved by washing items in the hottest water temperature that the fabric will allow. But water temperature whether it's hot, warm or cold affects the performance of laundry products on soil removal, fabric wrinkling and shrinking, colour bleeding and fading, and overall durability of fabric finishes. Laundry code symbols on clothing tags play an important role in the selection of right temperature in washing.

Important points to remember:

Wash reds or new, colored garments separately the first few times. These items can bleed and stain other laundry if not careful. To test an item for tentative colorfastness, dampen it with water in a discreet spot and blot with an old white cloth. If color transfers to the white, the item will bleed. To be sure, add an old white handkerchief or sock in with the possible offenders until it comes out clear, then one can wash those items with other like colors without fear of bleeding.
Check all clothes for stains and sort out those that require pretreatment or soaking. Transfer liquid detergent to a spare container to pre-treat clothes.
Carefully check all pockets and pant cuffs for things those need not to be washed. Even check the inside of the machine for the same.
Check zippers, buttons, snaps and buckles and secure them to prevent snagging. Unroll shirt cuffs, tie drawstrings. Pin un-removable shoulder pads. Use mesh bags to separate washable delicates from rougher fabrics or to designate items which can't transfer to the dryer.

Ensure not to mix lint generators and lint magnets. Some lint generators include towels, sweatshirts and flannel. Lint magnets include corduroy, velvets, and permanent-press clothes. When in doubt, turn the lint-magnet items inside out during sorting.
Fabrics, linings, or insulations could shrink or be otherwise damaged from using too hot a temperature or from leaving garments in the dryer too long. Apparels made from fibres such as acrylic, nylon, polyester, and polyolefin tend to dry quickly and thus to be watched carefully. Polyolefin can actually melt if the dryer temperature gets too high.

IRONING

Ironing, pressing and finishing are the terms which are often used interchangeably. The basic aim of these different activities is to remove the unwanted crease and impart wanted creases. Ironing involves relative movement or friction between two flat surfaces, while pressing involves compression between two surfaces with no relative motion between them. Finishing removes the unwanted crease by stretching, but can not impart a wanted crease. Both ironing and pressing can remove or impart a crease. Ironing is one job most users love to hate. It can take a lot of time and energy, neither of which are in abundance in today's hectic households. Even though wrinkle-free fabrics are more readily available in market, ironing is never going to disappear. So if one wants his clothes to have that finished look but don't have the ironing know-how or time, following basic ironing warnings may be surely of help to him. One can improve in ironing ability and get on with more pressing issues in life.

Ironing actually begins in the Washer and Dryer

Wash synthetics made of nylon, polyester and acrylic and washable woolens in hot or warm water using a permanent-press cycle to help remove and reduce wrinkles.

Wash synthetics made of nylon, polyester and acrylic and washable woolens in hot or warm water using a permanent-press cycle to help remove and reduce wrinkles.
Wash bright colors and lightly soiled fabrics in cold water to minimize washer wrinkling (and save hot water).
Add appropriate agent e.g. Ultra Downy Advanced for wrinkle control in the rinse cycle to also help reduce wrinkles.
Shake out items taken from the washer before placing them in the dryer to prevent them from balling up and wrinkling.
Don't overload the dryer it prevents proper tumbling, causing clothes to dry slower and wrinkle.
Don't over dry clothes this not only causes them to shrink, but increases static cling. Excessive heat can also set wrinkles.
Hang up or fold clothes immediately after removing them from the dryer. If one leaves them in a heap, they will wrinkle.

Rule of Ironing of garment

Movement of iron over the garment should follow certain rules.
From the right side of the ironing table to the left - requires steam and no suction
From the left side of the ironing table to the right no steam, dry iron and suction
Vacuum and steam should never be applied together.

A synergistic rhythm of three applications such as movement of the iron, application of steam and application of vacuum shall generate effective result in ironing.

In a practical erroneous situation i.e. applying steam while the vacuum is on, may not result in any quality issue of garment but it affects energy bill and incorrect motion slows down productivity.

Set Iron for smart appearance

Undoubtedly, some fabrics like cotton or silk, will beg for an iron. Laundry care symbols on the label will indicate on what temperature to set the iron. One can also consult fabric guide information for selection of iron temperature. Suggested guidelines can also be followed:

Ironing Tips

Do not iron garments that are dirty or stained. The iron's heat can set the stain.
Iron items that need lower iron temperatures first, then end with those requiring higher temperatures.
Iron clothes, especially those made of cotton, rayon and silk, while they are still damp by removing them from the dryer before they are completely dry. If that's not convenient, dampen dried clothes with a steam iron or sprinkle with warm water. Allow the moisture to permeate the fabric.
Keep a damp sponge or spray bottle handy when ironing. If one creates a crease, dampening it and then re-ironing the area are advised.
Iron fabric on the wrong side or use a pressing cloth on the right side to avoid shine marks.
Hang newly ironed items immediately. Do not wear or pack them for several hours. Newly ironed garments tend to wrinkle again quickly.

Dry cleaning

Dry cleaning is the use of solvents to remove soil and stains from fabric. It is called "dry cleaning" because the solvents contain little or no water and do not penetrate the fibers as water does. Dry cleaning solvent is not harmful to most fabrics and compared to water, cause less shrinkage, colour fading and other problems that can occur during the cleaning process. And, overall, solvents provide better cleaning potential than water. Dry cleaning is the only safe method for cleaning many types of garments. It helps in protecting the expected life of a garment.

Historically Stoddard solvent, Carbon Tetrachloride, and Valelene 113/ Freon 113 were used as dry cleaning solvents. Modern reagents include Perchloroethylene High flash point hydrocarbons DF-2000 (140oF flash point), Modified hydrocarbons blends (Pure Dry), Glycol Ethers (Dipropylene glycol tertiary-butyl ether) (Rynex), Cyclic Silicone (Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) (GreenEarth) and Supercritical Carbon Dioxide. Perchloroethylene is undoubtedly the most commonly used solvent with unmatched cleaning performance though it is considered as a persistent and bio-accumulative chemical that is toxic to environment. Detergents are utilized in dry cleaning solvents for enhanced cleaning capability. Sometimes, sizing chemical is added to restore garment shape, body and texture.

Natural fibers such as wools and silks will shrink and perhaps lose their color when washed in water, but will dry-clean beautifully. Cottons and linens, unless they are preshrunk in manufacture, will also shrink in home laundering. Dry cleaning is particularly effective in removing greasy, oily stains from synthetic fibers, which have an affinity for oils.
But the professional drycleaner provides more than just dry cleaning. This service also includes professional removal of problem stains that will not come out with simple dry cleaning. It also includes professional pressing, careful packaging, and inspections at every step along the way to make sure that all stains have been attended to and the item has been properly pressed and finished.

Great technological advances have been made in both the improvement of natural fibers and the creation and development of synthetic fibers. Special finishes impart body, permanent press qualities, water repellency, and other qualities to fabrics. Fibers are blended to obtain fabrics with the best qualities of both natural and synthetic materials. Peculiarities of various fabrics are mentioned below.

Many beautiful fibers lack durability and should be purchased only with this understanding. These include cashmere, camel's hair, and mohair. Angora, another luxury fiber, can shrink excessively even with the most careful care in cleaning.
Lightweight and loosely woven wools, gauzes, and loosely knit sweaters have a tendency to snag easily or become distorted in wear and cleaning.
Suede and smooth leathers have a high incidence of color difficulties. Genuine suede and leather items require special processing to preserve their finish, feel, and color. Normal drycleaning may lead to cracking, shrinking, or spotting. By adding a detergent plus conditioner in the recommended concentration to the drycleaning solution to condition it, the colour and suppleness of suede and leather can be protected and preserved so that no colour loss, bleeding, stiffening and hardening will occur in the drycleaning procedure. Even drycleaning items made of combinations of suede, leather, fur and cloth can be drycleaned as easy as drycleaning cloth items when the detergent plus conditioner is added to the drycleaning fluid.
Suede-like materials and other materials with a flocked finish may develop bare spots in wear and cleaning. The life expectancy for these garments is generally rather short.
Many tailored garments contain interfacings in the collar and lapel that are fused rather than stitched to the shell fabric. In some cases, blisters and wrinkles develop when these items are drycleaned. This is the fault of the manufacturer.
Some bonded fabrics may separate from the face fabric or lining, or there may be shrinkage, puckering, stiffening, or adhesive staining.
Acrylic knits are inclined to stretch when wet or when exposed to steam in finishing after drycleaning.
Some dyes and pigment prints may fade in drycleaning solvents. Others are water soluble and may fade when exposed to water in spot removal.

One must also be concerned with the response of buttons, beads, sequins, and other decorations and fasteners to drycleaning.

Most troublesome in this respect are buttons and beads made of polystyrene, which softens or melts on exposure to drycleaning solvent.

Beads and sequins may be covered with a thin coating of color, which may come off during wear or cleaning. Beads or sequins may be merely glued on and come off during wear or in cleaning. Trim that is sewn on with a single continuous thread may all come off if the thread is broken.

Belts or other items that contain cardboard stiffeners or glues will require special attention.

According to the Federal Trade Commission care label rule, trims must be able to withstand the recommended care process, so in case of a problem, consumer can return the article to the retailer.

Statements for Care instructions

Concluding Remarks

There is no doubt that care of apparels is an important area of discussion when one considers the sea changes occurred in the fashion world. The advent of new functional finishes and application of embellishment, sequins and fancy prints have transformed the wash care issues more complicated. But the basics remain same. Keeping the fundamentals in mind and selecting right choice of parameters underlined in the process, laundering can be executed with success. Useful life of apparel can be easily ensured if one really interested to respect the care instruction. International brands are conscious and concerned on this aspect while arriving at an appropriate care label. But the ultimate care of the product lies with the consumer, the end user of the merchandise. Legal issues do happen due to inappropriate care labelling of garment and penalty, recall and claims are the final result.

About the author:

Dr. Subrata Das, did his Ph.D (1997) and M.Tech (1986) from the Textile Technology Department of I.I.T. Delhi after completion of B.Sc(Tech) in Textile Technology(1983) from Calcutta University. He is having around two decades of working experience in Shop floor, Research & Development, Quality Assurance and Teaching. Dr. Das had visited abroad several times and received special training in Social Accountability, Laboratory Management Systems and Excellence in Retail Store Operations. He has performed more than 100 audits in Bangladesh as a lead auditor in Social Compliance for reputed garment buyers throughout the globe.

Dr. Das is presently heading the Consumer Testing Laboratories (India) Limited, Inc., Bangalore. He has around 75 publications in reputed national and international textile journals and presented 20 technical papers in various national and international conferences. He is also in the panel of referees in Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research.

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