There appears to be a split between those who see the promise in organic and natural textile, and those who see it as a half-hearted development. Some of the top-notch designers are creating exclusive designs that employ organic textile, but there's a concern regarding dwindling demand for them following the soaring prices of natural fibres.

Thus, for some, organic textiles are simply a part of a popular statement and the plan to make them a part of mainstream demand is yet to work in some parts of the world. On the other hand, India, which is one of the leading producers of jute, has seen growing confidence in jute apparel and accessories among customers and designers.

Thriving sector
India and Bangladesh are among the leading producers of jute. In 2013-14, raw jute production in India stood at 2.05 lakh metric tonnes, while production of jute goods was 15.3 lakh metric tonnes. India exported jute and jute products worth approximately ₹ 1,593.6 crore during April-December 2013. Data shows the United States of America, the United Kingdom, Saudi Arabia, Germany, Egypt, and Turkey were among the major importers of Indian jute.

The jute textile market in India is expanding in spite of rising competition from synthetic fibres. To push growth in the jute industry, the government of India passed a stricture that at least 90 per cent of the production of food grains and sugar should be packed in jute. Such attempts by the government to revive the jute industry have helped in the consistent growth of jute textile. Jute is predominantly used as a packing material in the form of gunny bags, but jute fibre applications have a range of uses from home decor like carpets, to fashion accessories, geo-textiles, and floor mats.

Jute is considered a unique and environment-friendly fibre. This natural fibre has made frequent appearances on fashion ramps, in regular as well as luxury apparel and accessory designs. Accessories like jute bags, stoles, shoes, and hats have drawn applause from customers and designers as jute's strength and eco-friendly properties make it stand out from synthetic fibre. When combined with other fibres like cotton, linen, or wool, jute can be used to produce a delightful array of products.

With a ban on polythene bags imposed in many parts of the world, Indian companies have busied themselves shipping jute bags to Europe. The jute bag is also extremely popular in Hong Kong. With big jute mills manufacturing the bags, their production, which was hitherto mainly undertaken by micro and small enterprises, has picked up substantially in the last couple of years.

Currently, there are 83 composite jute mills in India. West Bengal leads the list with 64 jute mills, followed by Andhra Pradesh, which has seven. Bihar and Uttar Pradesh have three mills each. These mills contribute to a diverse range of jute products from gunny bags to home decor items, including economical and eco-friendly twill bags, geo-textiles that do not allow easy water penetration, carpets, and floor rugs.

Rags to riches
Jute's traditional role, which limited its use to packaging, has changed. Today, jute has had a glamorous makeover. It is a part of the luxury apparel and accessory market. The market for jute is expanding mainly because the global fashion industry

is driving efforts to revolutionise this fibre. More designers are experimenting with jute to create haute couture and accessories like belts, bags, hats and home textiles. Considered the world leader in fashion, the European fashion industry is actively using jute to design contemporary apparel.


Another reason for jute's new popularity is the cost. It is among the most affordable natural fibres. Produced in large quantities, it trails only cotton in quantity. Jute also leaves very low carbon footprints, so it rests easy on the collective conscience of its production line. Jute is biodegradable and is used to feed the soil. This means, every part of the jute plant comes handy to boost jute's environmental compatibility. As a result, using this fibre means that the end product will be favourable for the environment. The number of customers who swear by organic products is also escalating, making jute a popular choice for raw material in a plethora of textile products.


Rising to the challenges

In India, the jute industry is recognised as one of the major export crops. However, challenges for this fibre continue to prevail, mainly due to growing competition from synthetic fibres and declining demand seen in some jute products. What probably goes against jute in its fight with synthetic products is that cheaper and durable synthetics are easily available. Demand for jute carpets has also hit a low. Jute is facing demand crisis in packaging sector, as packing fabrics made of high density polyethylene continue to attract.


Although the Government of India has extended support to jute mills by announcing regulations that require the use of jute material in packaging food grains and sugar, this move alone cannot boost jute production.


Another hitch is the use of obsolete machinery in the jute textile sector. Most mills in India continue to utilise outdated technology to produce jute fibre, which impacts the quality of the yarn.


The challenges to the Indian jute industry are exacerbated by illegal imports of jute bags from Bangladesh and Nepal into India. In 2014, Jute Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, raised a complaint with the ministry, the Directorate General of Supplies and Disposals (DGS&D) and the Indian Jute Mills Association accusing some mills in India of duping government agencies by selling jute bags obtained illegally from neighbouring countries at an extravagant price.


According to an official in the office of the Jute Commissioner, "Every year, the government procures jute bags worth around Rs 4,500 crore from the mills to help those involved in farming and working in jute factories. But it has been found that at least 10 to 12 jute mills in Bengal are importing cheap jute bags from neighbouring countries and selling them to the government at a higher price."


The jute industry is still following traditional ways of marketing, which have led to sluggish growth. Indian jute mills have failed to project jute textile products as a happening brand across the globe. To ensure dynamic growth, India's jute sector needs to follow the modernised version of technology and step up efforts in marketing.


Growing ambitions

Jute's durability, its natural silky colour, flawless elegance and durability are recognised by designers. Jute fibre, combined with other yarns like nylon, rayon, acrylic, cotton, wool or polypropylene, gives remarkable results. These combinations result in increased durability, softer feel, elegant appearance and greater flexibility. The latest fashion trend focuses on jute crafted accessories like jewellery, scarves, bags, ties and belts. Jute is going through a revolution, but India needs to counter the challenges this sector is facing to ensure steady growth.


There still remains a lot of headroom that jute can explore in the textile market. Indian designers like Pawan Aswani, Ashish Soni and Prabha Mohanty have drawn the world's attention to jute with their designs. There are some obvious benchmarks that jute fibre has already achieved, but the jute textile sector in India needs to be more discreet and move forward with sound strategy.


References:


1. Indiablooms.com

2. Ijira.org

3. Telegraphindia.com

4. Economictimes.indiatimes.com

5. Wildfibres.co.uk

6. Commodityonline.com

7. Njmc.gov.in