The fashion ramps have often been under scrutiny not only for clothing designs but also for clothing sizes. Designs that require models to maintain a certain shape have received scathing reviews. In January 2013, when a visibly gaunt male model walked for Yves Saint Laurent show in Paris, it once again sparked off the 'size' debate. As awareness regarding a healthy body image, obesity, and also accepting one's weight gain momentum, fashion designers and brands are foraying into the plus-size business. Society, in general, has found suave role models like the world's highest-earning male model David Gandy, talk show host Oprah Winfrey, actress Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, singer Adele, celebrity chef Nigella Lawson, and others who flaunt muscles and curves with style. Plus-size clothing is addressing serious psychological, physical, and social issues by providing innumerable choices to men and women alike.

Bulging market size
According to the World Health Organization, more than 1.9 billion of the global adult population was overweight in 2014. Of these, over 600 million were obese. These staggering figures back up companies' plans to bolster the already-flourishing plus-size fashion industry. Brands are adapting to the growing sizes of the general global population. According to a report by Technopak, women's wear will be around US$ 22.3 billion by 2017, and plus-size clothing, which already stands at US$ 1.8 billion, is likely to double during this time. A market research firm NPD group reported that the plus-size clothing industry in the United States alone stands at US$ 17.5 billion, a segment which has experienced an increase in sales by 5 per cent in the period between May 2013 and April 2014. The market size in the United Kingdom is also expanding. Market research firm Mintel has predicted the UK plus-size apparel market to reach nearly �6 billion in 2015.

Brands in business are relying heavily on e-retail and dedicated sections in departmental stores to market plus-size apparel and boost sales. Between the years 2013 and 2014, e-retailing in plus-size grew by 31 per cent, and business in department stores showed a rise of 7 per cent. In the last quarter of 2014, Internet search for plus-size apparel went up by 14 per cent in comparison to the previous year. In the UK alone, plus-size apparel internet search was up by 21 per cent.

In spite of the progress seen in the UK's plus-size market, it remains the third largest plus-size apparel market with a 3 per cent share. According to Borderfree's Plus-Size Apparel analysis, Canada and Australia grabbed the top positions with plus-size markets at 54 per cent and 14 per cent, respectively. Russia, Mexico, and Saudi Arabia each have a market share of 2 per cent, followed by Bermuda, Switzerland, Kuwait, and Hong Kong.

Developing world weighs options
Even as retailers like Asos and H&M expand business in developed countries, there are certain domestic brands in developing nations that are addressing the demand for plus-size apparel. In India, Shiva International's Pluss, Revolution, Pantaloons' All and Mustard are doing fairly well. E-commerce giant Jabong recently put forth its internal estimates, according to which, plus size forms 8-10 per cent of India's clothing market with designs and options going in favor of women rather than men. Male plus-size apparel largely remains untapped and has huge growth potential. Conventional retail stores do not carry many choices for men. This scenario is likely to change now as many general clothing stores are expanding plus-size offerings.

The market in the developing world is evolving rapidly, on the back of larger chunk of population falling into the obesity category. Medical journal The Lancet's study reveals that India is not far behind the US and China in the obesity figure. Plus-size apparel remains a latent market in these countries, and, domestic companies are determined to cash in on this segment.


Making it large

Plus-size clothing is going through a gradual makeover. The brands and designers in business are offering fresh designs to customers who are on heavier side of weigh scale. Casuals, formals, sportswear, intimate wear, swimwear, jackets, etc are available in eye-catching designs, colours and patterns. Eileen Fisher, Lane Bryant, Forever21 , Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, NYDJ, Vince Camuto and Mango are some of the leading retail brands catering to fashionable demands of the plus-size population.


American online retailer ModCloth has experienced a significant rise of 25 per cent in its plus-size orders in 2014. Sarah Rose, senior vice president of product and growth for ModCloth shared, Our plus business has more than tripled since 2011, and average order values with plus items are 25 per cent higher than average.


The plus-size apparel's promising prospects can be owed to a rapidly growing global obese population. Also, designers have become sensitive to the demands of customers in need of larger sizes. Experimenting with colours, designs and fabrics to make plus-size men and women comfortable has become more of a socio-moral responsibility, as social organisations and media urge general population to accept their body shape. The widespread criticism that Abercrombie & Fitch received after its CEO commented that the chain caters to 'cool' and 'attractive' kids demonstrates that media is determined to spread the word regarding positive body image. The growing number of online bloggers is also positively influencing brands' decision to create extensive range of plus-size designs.


Another essential reason for the upward demand graph is high disposable income of customers. Nowadays, people do not have to suppress the urge to buy a high-end apparel brand and this applies to shoppers of all sizes.


An uphill battle

And, while there are many gorgeous designs available for plus size apparel buyers, there are many premium brands that have stayed away from plus-size apparel designs. Brands like Zara and Topshop that have wide global reach and a rich customer base are yet to expand their size range. Moreover, some of the brands in business sell up to US size 14 whereas demand in the market extends to size 18. Also, the online retailers that have impressive range of sizes shy away from portraying plus-size models in apparel meant for the similar customer base.

 

Apart from limited size options and dearth of luxury brands in plus-size apparel, customer behaviour is also culpable for restricted and hesitant growth of plus-size segment. A large number of plus-size customers are unwilling to experiment with designs and options, which leads to controlled supply. It is also estimated that average plus-size consumer continues to remain unwilling to spend hefty amount on luxury brands. Thus, it does not surprise trade pundits that elite labels like Prada and Marc Jacobs are yet to break into the plus-size industry.


Though, the plus-size apparel market is not expanding like regular clothing segment, change is in order. Designers and retailers have slowly realised that fashion can be extended to all sizes. Availability of designs and rising demand are encouraging fashion houses to expand their line and utilise their experience for plus-size customer base as well.


References:


1. Indexventures.com

2. Thehindubusinessline.com

3. Forbes.com

4. Dailymail.co.uk

5. Time.com

6. Businessinsider.com

7. Borderfree.com