Madhya Pradesh is proud to be the originator of woven wonders like the Chanderi and Maheshwari fabrics made with cotton and silk yarns, carpets woven in Gwalior, Guna, Morena, while printing centres like Bagh and Jawad are famous for vegetable dye and resist block prints. Bhairogarh is known for batik and chemical block prints, Burhanpur for cotton, Bhopal for zari, zardozi and Gotampura for tie-and-dye and block printing.
Apart from the above, major handicrafts created in the state include bamboo and cane work, woodcraft, lacquer ware, floor coverings like carpets, folk painting, jute works, jewellery, stone carving, terracotta and doll making.
These can be categorised on the basis of techniques involved like weaving, printing, braiding, embroidery, or on the basis of regions involved. Here, both classifications are done in tabular forms.
DEFINITIONS
Textile Craft Cluster
The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialised usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods (like, garments). Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of fabric used for a specific purpose (e.g., tablecloth).
Craft
"A craft is a pastime or a profession that requires particular skills and knowledge of skilled work. In a historical sense, particularly as pertinent to the Middle Ages and earlier, the term is usually applied to people occupied in small-scale production of goods, or their maintenance, for example by tinkers. The traditional terms craftsman and craftswoman are nowadays often replaced by artisan and also by craftsperson."
Cluster
"A cluster is defined as a geographic concentration (a city/town/few adjacent villages and their adjoining areas) of units producing near similar products and facing common opportunities and threats. An artisan cluster is defined as geographically concentrated (mostly in villages/townships) household units producing handicraft/handloom products. In a typical cluster, such producers often belong to a traditional community, producing the long-established products for generations. Indeed, many artisan clusters are centuries old."
Textile Craft Cluster
Any cluster creating craft which includes natural or manmade textile is called textile craft cluster. It includes creation of textile material itself, or its surface embellishment or product development.
Bagh, Bastar, Bilaspur, Bhopal, Gwalior, Indore, Bundelkhand, Gondwana, Ujjain Khajuraho, Malwa, Mandla, Jhabua, Raigarh and Shahdol are main clusters of art and craft in Madhya Pradesh.
History and culture
The state was established by Chandragupta Maurya in 320 B.C. The region gained its present status after being under influences of tribes like Bhil and Gond and the civilisation of Aryans. Some of the tribal groups in Madhya Pradesh are Baigas, Bhilals, Bhils, Gonds, Halba, Kamaras, Kols, Korkens, Murias, Oraons, Sahariya, Panikas, Khaiwas, and Mangetri Pradhans. It came under the influence of Buddhism from Mauryans, while other influences included that of the Guptas, Chandels, Parmaras, Bundelas, and lately, Mughals and British.
This explains the vivid art and culture of Madhya Pradesh. The major languages spoken is Hindi, but with a Bhopali dialect.
The incorporation of the varied tradition of different groups made the culture of the state vivacious and multi-dimensional. The state has specialities in all streams of art and craft. Influence of tribal culture displays the different customs and social activities as well as the rich traditions.
Classification of Textile Craft Clusters of Madhya Pradesh
They can be categorised on the basis of techniques. For instance, weaving, printing, embroidery, braiding, and beading clusters (Table 1.1) or region it is practiced like, Chanderi, Bagh, Gwalior (Table 1.2).
Table No.1 Classification of Madhya Pradesh textile clusters on the basis of techniques.
|
Sr.no. |
Weaving |
Printing |
Jute Braiding |
Beading and other textile crafts |
Emboridery (Zardozi) |
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Cluster |
Product |
Cluster |
Product |
Cluster |
Product |
Cluster |
Product |
Cluster |
Product |
|
1 |
Chanderi |
Sari and Dress material |
Bagh, District-Dhar |
Apparel and home furnishing fabric |
Govinpura, Bhopal, Gwalior, Indore, |
Furniture and accessories |
Bhopal |
Beaded Purses, handbags, accessories |
Bhopal, Gwalior, Indore, |
Apparel, and home furnishing and Accessories |
|
2 |
Maheshwar |
Sari and Dress material |
Block and Batik print,Bherugarh Ujjain |
Apparel and home furnishing fabric |
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Gwalior |
Battobai dolls from rags, paper or jute. |
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|
3 |
Gwalior, Mandla, Shahdol, Chattarpur |
KnottedCarpet |
Tarapur, Jawad at Neemuch, |
Nandana prints for Apparel and home furnishing fabric |
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Jabalpur, Sidhi, Sironj, Shahdol, Jabot(Alirajpur), Jhabua, Morena,Mandsour,Satna, Guna |
Woolen Dhurrie making with punja technique |
Tie dye of Jawad, and Mandsour |
Chunaries and Dupattasa |
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Mandala |
Pankha weavers creat yardages for women |
Guna |
Batik |
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Burhanpur |
Cotton yardages |
Block print, Datia,Sarangpur |
Apparel and home furnishing fabric |
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Sarangpur, Padana |
Bed sheets, towels, gamcha |
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Table No. 1.2 Classification of Madhya Pradesh textile clusters on the basis of regions.
|
Sr.no. |
Craft Cluster name |
Craft technique |
Product |
Region |
Market |
|
1 |
Chanderi |
Weaving with silk warp and cotton weft |
Sari, Salwar suit fabric, and other yardages. |
Chanderi |
Well marketed |
|
2 |
Maheshwari |
Weaving with cotton silk thread |
Sari, Salwar suit fabric, and other yardages. |
Chanderi |
Well marketed |
|
3. |
Bherugarh |
Batik printing |
Apparel and home furnishing products |
Ujjain |
Too commercialised resulting in loss of traditional motifs and quality. |
|
Resist block printing with wax, Pigment/chemical block printing |
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Ujjain |
Bohra Crochet Cap |
Cap |
Ujjain |
For personal need |
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4. |
Gwalior |
Carpet making |
Carpets |
Gwalior |
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Jute Craft |
Baskets, hanging lamps, flower vases, hammocks, swings, purses, footwear, table mats etc |
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Zardozi |
Apparel and lifestyle acessories. |
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Battobai Doll from rags and paper, jute dolls |
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5 |
Mandla |
Carpet making |
Carpets |
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6 |
Shahdol |
Knotted Carpet and |
Carpet |
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Punja Dhurrie making |
Dhurrie |
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7 |
Sironj |
Woolen Dhurrie making with punja technique |
Dhurrie |
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8 |
Jabalpur |
Woolen Dhurrie making with punja technique |
Dhurrie |
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9 |
Jhabua |
Woolen Dhurrie making with punja technique |
Dhurrie |
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10 |
Raigarh |
Woolen Dhurrie making with punja technique |
Dhurrie |
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11 |
Bhopal (sehore, barkheda, Vidisha) |
Zardozi
|
Apparel and lifestyle acessories. |
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Jute craft |
Baskets, hanging lamps, flower vases, hammocks, swings, purses, footwear, table mats etc |
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Bagh, Kukshi and Manawar |
Natural dye printing (specially Madder and Alijarine) |
Apparel and furnishing Yardages. |
Dhar District |
Commercial For local shops, fairs, government support organisations, like MPHSVN, few for dealers outside the state |
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Indore |
Jute craft |
Baskets, hanging lamps, flower vases, hammocks, swings, purses, footwear, table mats etc |
Indore |
Craft fairs, shops, MPHSVN |
|
Zardozi
|
Apparel and lifestyle accessories |
For local shops, fairs, few cater to out of the state dealers. |
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Batik |
Apparel and furnishing yardage like sari, dupatta, bed sheets. |
Commercial. For local shops, fairs, government support organizations, like MPHSVN, some dealers outside the state |
| Bohra Crochet Cap | Cap | For personal need | |||
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Raipur |
Jute craft |
Baskets, hanging lamps, flower vases, hammocks, swings, purses, footwear, table mats etc |
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Umedpura |
Nandana Prints |
Apparel and furnishing yardage |
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Jawad |
Nandana Prints |
Apparel and furnishing yardage |
Tarapura, Neemach |
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Tie Dye |
Chunary and Dupattas |
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Mandsour |
Durrie making |
Dhurrie |
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Tie Dye |
Chunaries and Dupattasa |
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Sidhi |
Dhurrie making with punja technique |
Dhurries, mats, Rugs |
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Jabot |
Dhurrie making with punja technique |
Dhurries, mats, Rugs |
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Morena |
Carpet and Dhurrie making |
Carpets, Dhurries, mats, rugs |
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Satna |
Rag Rugs |
Dhurries, mats, rugs |
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Guna |
Durrie weaving |
Dhurries |
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batik |
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Chadharia sari weaving |
Saris |
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Local tribes |
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Dindor |
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mandla |
Pankha weavers creat yardages for women |
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Conclusion
The varied and rich cultural diversity of Madhya Pradesh is reflected in its textile heritage. According to the classification, it is observed that handloom weaving for apparel and handloom carpet weaving are the most flourishing textile clusters in the state. Printing also survives in some places. Jute, bead and zari craft are restricted to just a few areas.
Overall, Madhya Pradesh provides a home to variety of crafts, each embedded in its particular region.
References
1. Jaya J., (2012) Craft Atlas of India, Niyogi Books.
2. Singh M., Saris Tradition and Beyond, Publisher, Lustre.
3. Tribal Arts and Crafts of Madhya Pradesh, Editor: Shampa Shah, Coordinating, Editor: Aashi Manohar, Mapin Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Ahmedabad.
4. Mpforest.org
5. Mapsofindia.com
6. En.wikipedia.org
7. Craftclusterofindia.in
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