Techniques of making stretch yarn and fancy yarn without any attachment

Elastanefibre has the property of stretching and so it is used in making stretch yarn.Fabric with stretch yarn provides the wearer comfort, durability, wrinkleresistance and freedom of movement. Therefore, such fabrics are in high demand.Piyush Chandarana and Bharat Thakar explain about the process and methods of manufacturingstretch and speciality yarn without any attachment.

Even in denim and other fabricsfor making some styles of trousers, stretch yarn is widely used and 80-85 percent of the domestic demands for them are with stretch yarn in the weft.

Makingcore spun cotton stretch yarn

Probable methods of core-spun yarnproduction are discussed below:

Fig. 2. Spinning elastane yarn with cotton without attachment on ring frame

We have found that feeding elastane yarn into the front roller causes different stretch in denim fabric. There are no stretch quality issues after making denim fabric but when the fabric was washed, there was a difference in stretch. Therefore, we were not successful in this trial but were able to successfully invent fancy yarn, discussed later.

After brainstorming to make the stretch yarn without attachment, it was decided to feed the elastane yarn into speed frame during roving process. We have taken finer hank at speed frame and 70 single count (s) denier elastane yarn and have put in the centre of roving into front roll with small holding attachment of elastane yarn. We have not set any draft into the spandex but only given tension draft in speed frame. We have put the speed frame bobbin directly into the ring frame and spun the yarn normally. The production of stretch yarn turned out to be just like the production of normal yarn, without having to change the speed. With this process, we got the following yarn for denim fabric.

We made denim fabric with the above yarn and put it through various washes to give the same effect as stretch yarn. The same process can also be used to make stretch slub yarn. This saves money as there is no need to reduce speed or drop production like in a stretch attachment.

Fancy yarn with conventional ring frame

As per Figure 2, we have made core spun yarn by using polyester as a core. It was covered with cotton. We have taken 80 denier polyester yarn for core and fed it into the front roller. We have taken cotton hank of 1.2 Hk from inter machine and fed it into the ring frame. Ring frame feed was adjusted for making 48 single count and finally we got the 27 single count core spun yarn of polyester covered with cotton.

The above trial produced the following yarn:

We have made the denim fabric of 30s x 27s constructions and discovered linen-like effect after washing. As polyester yarn remains in the core, it will provide the feel of cotton fabric even though it has been used in the weft.

With such yarn process, finer count can be made in courser ring frame while simultaneously decreasing the cost of yarn by 25 to 30 per cent by using low cost mixing.

OE yarn converted into ring yarn

We can convert the OE yarn into ring yarn. After doing a trial, we have made 10 single count OE with less TM of 4 (Normally 5.2) in OE yarn. This OE yarn spool was put at the ring frame creel of ring frame and was fed the low TM OE yarn into front roll of ring frame. We have given TM of 1.2 into Ring frame and made yarn. We have got the yarn which gives ring effect and at every stage, we have checked parameters which are given below.

We used this yarn in denim fabric and it provides ring effect instead of OE effect. We have made OE slub yarn with higher taper in slub so we got excellent ring slub yarn with the above process.

We thus eliminated ring spinning preparatory i.e. inter process and can make the ring yarn with low-cost OE mixing. This saves 15-20 per cent in making ring yarn over the conventional method.