Fitting is one of the crucial criteria for consumers in their buying decision. However, most ready-to-wear garments come with some or other fit issues. Consumers make their purchase decisions not just based on the garment being fashionable, but also on how it fits. Although clothing styles are essential, the more critical factor is proper fitting according to the person’s body structure. When garments do not show any pull lines or extreme fullness while wearing, they are considered to be of proper fit. The correct placement of seams, darts or grain lines is also important. The importance of the appropriate fit of the garment depends on its type. For example, in the case of contoured dresses, most minor fit issues are visible and noticeable, whereas, for loose-fitted garments, an exact fit is not required as this does not make much difference. Even with high-quality fabric and excellent craftsmanship, if the fitting of the garment needs to be corrected, then other things do not matter.

Apart from the customers, the ready-made garment manufacturers and retailers also bear the consequences due to fitting issues. The problem might seem small. However, the returns of purchased clothes, brand dissatisfaction, and extra time in trial rooms add up the expenses for the retailer. Whether a garment is purchased or not is often based on its fit. Apart from visual aesthetics, the comfort level of well-fitted clothes is preferred. Generally, garments with a not-so-good fit lie in the back of people’s closets.

One of the problems faced by the manufacturers is the designing of the plus-size fashion, as it also requires the changing of proportions to be taken into account, so as to offer perfect fit across all sizes. The development of patterns and the resultant ready-to-wear measurements do not generate the evaluation of proper fit.

While the medium and smaller sizes work out fine for making clothes for fit models, scaling up uniformly for plus sizes does not work, as the human body does not scale up in the same proportion. It does not account for the variations between straight and plus-size bodies and the many variations within plus-size bodies. These garments are not built with love handles or bellies in mind. Though maternity wear incorporates these, it is often the only option for the plus size consumers. There may not be room for the tummy or the plumper arms. Things will be loose in some places but tight in others.

Every garment manufacturer has a target segment with specific demographic characteristics, defining the consumer profile. The manufacturer spends a huge amount of money to get the best fit and size dimensions. The best range of sizing can be a crucial success factor for manufacturers. Many companies use advanced technologies and strategies for device sizing systems and size categories to implement this. The following can be central to solving the sizing problem:

Demographic data collection: A survey of a sample that can represent the target population can provide data related to age, body type and ethnicity. This sample has to be selected very carefully as any deviation can create a domino effect. Statistical tools may be used to understand the range and variation in sizes. More and more companies at present are using automation and 3D body scanning technologies. These tools can help in an effective and economical data collection for the manufacturers. Lifestyle and socio-economic status along with demographic data are important factors affecting sizing, but only a few manufacturers use such data.

Perception about fitting: Different stakeholders in the supply chain have different perceptions about what is considered to be a proper fit. Designers can have their theory about which size of the clothing will match with a specific body dimension to provide a perfect look. Patternmakers try to maintain the look over an assortment of sizes. Consumers also have their personal preferences and perceptions about styles and sizes that can give them a better look. The efficiency of the sizing system is based on the skills of patternmakers and graders. They need to identify, define and manufacture the type of fit appropriate for the target market. Body scanners, market surveys, wear testing, and virtual fit assessment are some tools and strategies to facilitate this.

Design and style of clothing: The goodness of fit or the degree of closeness with actual body depends on each style which is targeted to fit a range of body types acceptably. Some styles, like baggy fits, can work on many bodies with a marginal difference. Also, garments made with stretchable materials can fit a wider range of body types.

Size labels: Information related to sizes of apparels is also important. Many times, it is seen that consumers need clarification of the sizes. They cannot correlate the labels with body measurements. Thus, they take trials of a number of sizes of the same product. This is because all manufacturers do not have standardised size labels. To eliminate this problem, manufacturers use slim, classic, and relaxed fit terms. This problem is more complex for women’s clothing than men’s. Womenswear often uses size labels denoting numbers that are not related to any specific dimension of the body or the clothing, whereas menswear sizing is generally associated to body measurements.

Sizing criteria: Before the production of ready-made garments in bulk quantity, every brand checks and identifies the need of the target consumer. The types of fits and the sizing also play an essential role here. The manufacturers are often divided about the size labelling on the garments. The customers should also be included in this process as they can provide the best insights.

Plus-size garments: Designing of the plus-size fashion is a problem faced by manufacturers. This requires the changing of proportions to be taken into account so that it can fit across a wider range of sizes. It is often seen that comparing garment measurements to the values from ready-wear measurement tables do not allow any judgement of how good the fit is for the intended target group.

Fit tests: Germany-based Hohenstein Institute carried out fitting tests on the test group of about 250 people of different ages and body types. The sample offered corresponding body measurements to that of the target group. The data thus collected provided insight for the dress size to be checked as well as the body types. This allowed clothing for 60-year-olds or plus-sizes to be checked on test subjects with the corresponding age or the specific body type. Stephanie Muller, an expert in fitting tests at the Hohenstein Institute, collaborates with manufacturers. Working with manufacturers on more accurate body measurement tables enables Muller and her team to help companies create a loyal and satisfied customer base who can purchase their wardrobe from one brand.

‘People rather than dummies’ is what Muller believes to be the only way to end fitting problems and increase customer satisfaction. According to her, “In reality, whether someone perceives a garment to have a proper fit depends on how it looks and feels on their body.”