For the last century, synthetic fibres have taken over the home textile market, however aligned with the global movement towards sustainability comes the likely adoption of natural and sustainably sourced fibres.

For thousands of years, fibres were only made from natural materials such as cotton, wool, silk and flax. However, just as humans have drifted further away from the natural world, so have the textiles that enabled it to develop. Textiles’ shift away from natural materials started around 100 years ago when the technological revolution was underway, and people began searching for alternative ways to source materials. This search was fuelled by the limitless possibilities that synthetic fabrics offered.

The Beginning of Synthetic Fibres

The search for synthetic materials came to an end in 1935, when several DuPont chemical scientists, led by Wallace Carothers, synthesised polymers derived from petrochemicals, creating and manufacturing nylon1 for commercial purposes. This material was so revolutionary that when the first nylon stockings hit the market, demand was so high that it led to the great nylon riots – a defining moment in the history of textiles and the start of the synthetic era.

Since their discovery, synthetic fibres have become the most preferable choice for textiles. The main synthetic materials used include polyester, rayon, spandex, and nylon. These materials are cheap, easily mass-produced, and can be stain- and water-resistant. They now dominate global fibre production, comprising 62 per cent of all fibres produced2. The most prevalent synthetic is polyester, which is predicted to lead the future synthetic fibre growth, estimated to reach 63 million metric tons by 20233.

The Environmental Impacts of Synthetic Materials

The problem with synthetics is that although they may be the preferred choice of manufacturers, they are not environmentally friendly. Synthetic materials are made from plastic which is derived from oil, so directly linked to fossil fuels and greenhouse gas emissions. They require large amounts of chemicals during production and emit high levels of toxic waste; polyester and nylon both emit nitrous oxide which is 310 times worse for the environment than carbon dioxide4.

Due to synthetics’ plastic composition, their fibres are persistent in the environment and take years to biodegrade; nylon can take 30-40 years to decompose, while lycra and polyester take over 500 years5. When these materials do eventually break down, they break down into microplastics, which can often be referred to as microfibres. Microfibres impact the environment in several ways, threatening aquatic and terrestrial organisms, and human health, adding toxic chemicals to the environment, creating plastic pollution and not biodegrading. It is now estimated that currently there are 1.5 million trillion microfibres in the oceans6.

Synthetic fibres can be recycled either chemically or mechanically. Recycling synthetic materials uses 35-50 per cent less energy and generates 79 per cent fewer carbon emissions than using virgin synthetics. However, although recycling may seem like the better option for synthetic materials, just like virgin synthetics, when they are washed, they still shed fossil-based microplastics, harming the environment and putting dangerous materials into our waterways that end up in the oceans and are ingested by aquatic organisms.

Textiles in the Home

Home textiles include textiles and fabrics that are used as part of home furnishings. They consist of functional and decorative products and are composed of both natural and synthetic fibres. Home textiles can be seen in almost every house, and it is hard to imagine a home without them. The basic items can be categorised into sheets, pillowcases, blankets, towels, tablecloths, carpets and rugs.

Textiles play a huge role in people’s homes; through the textile colours and fabrics they can express cultures, identities, religions, personalities, moods and more. The fabrics and materials allow them to express their core identities and are a vital addition to making a house a home.

The global home textiles industry is huge, and the market is predicted to reach $151.825 billion by 2025, growing at a rate of 3.51 per cent between 2020 and 2025, according to Fibre2Fashion’s market insight tool TexPro. This increase is anticipated to be driven by factors such as improved standards of living and the growing number of single-person households.

When it comes to home furnishings, synthetic materials are everywhere. Unfortunately, these fabrics and furnishings are not just environmentally damaging but have also been found to have negative effects on people’s health. Research has shown that synthetic home furnishings increase exposure to semi-volatile organic compounds7, which are known to cause cancer, reproductive disorders, nervous system damage, and immune system disruption8.

Furthermore, synthetic textiles in the home increase toxic exposure risk if there is a fire, as synthetics fill the air with carcinogenic chemicals, which are found in non-organic fabrics and flame-retardant coatings. These chemicals when released are difficult to get rid of and remain present in the air. Synthetic fibres have also been found to affect people with sensitive skin; polyester, nylon and viscose can cause sensitive skin to react badly, causing rashes, skin irritations and more9.

The Impact of Unnatural Dyeing

As previously mentioned, colour can play an important role for consumers. The processes, however, used for that colour to be produced comes at a cost. In textile and yarn manufacturing, there are over 10,000 different dyes used with 60-70 per cent of these being azo dyes10 (the largest group of synthetic colours with carcinogenic properties).

Toxic textile dyes are one of the major causes of altering the physical and chemical properties of soil, deteriorating water bodies, and causing harm to the flora and fauna in the environment. Three rivers in Dhaka, Bangladesh’s capital, have been declared ‘biologically dead’ due to effluents released by the surrounding garment factories11.

Harmful dyes have been linked to the death of soil microorganisms, impacting agricultural productivity. Azo dyes, in particular, are also highly poisonous to the ecosystem and have been linked to human health implications, causing allergies and other human maladies12.

Natural dyes, therefore, are much better for the environment and prevent the addition of toxins and chemicals from entering the surrounding ecosystems. Natural dyes are dyes or colourants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The global organic dyes market is on the rise, projected to cross $5-billion mark by 2027, up from $3.2 billion in 2019, with demand for eco-friendly products driving this growth.

The Movement Towards Natural Fabrics & Dyes

The home textile market is growing and aligned with this comes increased public awareness of sustainability. Consumers are on a mission to invite nature back into their homes, ditch the plastic and invest in natural materials. This concept of nature-based architecture can be referred to as biophilic design, which is becoming increasingly popular. A biophilic design aims to increase the connectivity of a building occupant with the natural environment through the use of direct nature, indirect nature, and space and place conditions.

In short, people are inviting nature back into their homes by moving away from synthetic-based fibres and towards naturally derived textiles and materials. Natural fabrics are those which are created from natural fibres, i.e., fibres that occur in nature, for example, animals’ coats, plant seeds, leaves and stems, and even minerals. These fibres are spun into yarn, which then can be made into fabrics.

Natural sourced fibres are better for the environment, with the majority of them being biodegradable, moisture-wicking, breathable, durable, heat-responsive and naturally repellent to mould and dirt. Natural materials and textiles have also been found to be better for human health, boasting naturally hypoallergenic and antibacterial qualities which make them ideal for sensitive or allergy-prone skin.

The most commonly used natural fibres derived from plants include cotton, hemp, flax, jute and coir, while the most commonly used animal fibres include wool, cashmere and silk. These materials play a major role in home design and are becoming the preferable choice for consumers. In addition to these traditionally derived fibres, scientists and innovators have been expanding the possibilities of what can be made out of natural materials, constantly researching and developing the materials of the future and with this, reshaping the future of home textiles. Some of these natural materials used in making home textiles are mentioned below:

1. Fruit & Vegetable Skins

Plant-based fibres derived from fruit and vegetable skins are becoming increasingly popular in the textile market. Used to create materials such as ‘vegan’ leather, these fibres are entirely biodegradable and can be made out of leftover fruit, preventing it from going to landfill. Vegan leather can be made from pineapples, apples, oranges, bananas etc and can be perfect for home furnishings such as couches and chairs.

2. Organic Cotton

Cotton is well known as a natural fibre; however, conventionally grown cotton can be unsustainable in many ways. This is due to high water consumption and pollution, soil degradation, greenhouse gas emissions, and the use of harmful pesticides and fertilisers. If cotton is grown in a sustainable way, using materials and methods that lower its impact on the environment, organic cotton is a fantastic sustainable natural fibre and is ideal for bedsheets and furniture upholstery.

3. Mycelium

Mycelium is the network of long microscopic fibres that are bioactive during a mushroom’s lifecycle and form an underground network in the soil. They have gained considerable interest recently with the potential for textile development. Mycelium is carbon-negative and can be naturally dyed to any colour. Fabric created from mycelium boasts non-toxic, waterproof, and fire-resistant properties and it has been researched as a potential textile for lamp and couch coverings.

4. Bamboo & Jute

Bamboo and jute are becoming increasingly popular materials for consumers. As fibres, jute and bamboo are natural, cellulosic, regenerated and biodegradable. They are mainly cultivated in eastern and north-eastern parts of India and Bangladesh. They are versatile, breathable and lightweight, making them ideal for home furnishings, including rugs and throws. Both jute and bamboo boast ecologically sustainable qualities – they are fast-growing and low in pollutants and are fantastic natural fibres to replace synthetics.

5. Rattan & Wicker

Rattan is commonly used in wicker waves. It is made from naturally growing vine-like species that is native to tropical regions of Australia, Asia, and Africa. Rattan is excellent for home decor, notably due to its wicker malleability as well as its durability, flexibility, and attractiveness. It can be woven into many home furnishings including chairs, mirrors, and baskets.

6. Sisal

Sisal is derived from agave plants, succulents with large leaves and spiny tips that originated in Mexico. Sisal plants are extremely hardy and grow all year round, in hot climates and arid regions which are often unsuitable for other crops. Sisal fibres are hugely beneficial for home textiles due to their strength, durability, ability to stretch and resistance – all the qualities that make them ideal for carpets and rugs.

7. Peace Silk

Although traditional silk is derived from silkworms, there are ethical implications surrounding how the silk is obtained (silkworms are boiled alive to obtain silk fibre). Peace silk or Ahimsa (non-violent) silk as it is known, refers to any silk which is produced without harming or killing silkworms and is mainly produced in India. Peace silk boasts a variety of ethical and sustainable benefits and is 100 per cent natural and cruelty-free. Peace Silk is ideal for home textiles like bedding, upholstery, and curtains.

8. Flax (Linen)

Flax is a natural fibre that comes from the stem of the flax or linseed plant, commonly known as linen and is the oldest known textile. It is currently produced on an estimated 12 million acres globally, with the largest areas located in Kazakhstan, Russia, Canada and China.13 Linen has sustained its popularity through the centuries due to the cellulose fibres in flax which have excellent tensile strength and stiffness, making it perfect for materials.

Natural Fibres and Home Textiles

For the past decade, humans have been distancing themselves from naturally derived products as the Plastic Age takes form. However, with sustainability an essential societal goal, humanity is on a united mission to move away from damaging synthetic materials and dyes, and move towards natural alternatives to protect and restore the natural world. Millennials and Gen Z are driving this trend as conscious consumerism rises.

Conscious consumerism, transparency and sustainability all play a vital role in the future of home textiles. As people increasingly scrutinise brands for the impacts that they are having on the planet, brands and manufacturers are being pressured to shift away from environmentally harmful sourced products, including synthetic derived fibres. The more pressure consumers put on the industry, the more likely it will further shift towards naturally derived fibres.

Manufacturers are therefore required to be more aware of their environmental footprint, changing consumer behaviour and their preference towards eco-products. Manufacturers and brands are being held accountable for the entire lifecycles of their products, including fibre and fabric manufacturing, use and their final disposal, whether by landfilling, incineration or recycling.

Changing consumer behaviour combined with manufacturer and brand accountability is shifting the trends in the textile industry, with scientists and innovators continuously searching for and discovering new ways to make materials that allow humans to live a greener, more harmonious life with nature.