The total khadi sales in India zoomed from ₹1,081.04 crore in 2013-14 to ₹5,942.93 crore in 2022-23, registering a rise of nearly 450 per cent. This huge jump in sales gives a ray of hope to khadi makers and promoters. However, this is just the beginning of Indian artisanal products showcasing its huge potential.

At a time when sustainability has become a norm to follow for almost all industries, the textile industry is also looking for ways to provide sustainable products to its consumers. The use of khadi would be a right step in this direction. Symbolic of the Indian freedom movement, khadi is known for its simplicity, durability and elegance.

Khadi tells the tale of millions of people engaged in cotton cultivation, sheep rearing, and silk processing. It is the result of the rhythmic motion of deft hands swirling yarns delicately out of bundles of fibres. At the same time, it mirrors the craftsmanship of the millions of weavers weaving innumerable designs, rendering the fabric the socio-cultural narrative of India.

Khadi originating from the word khaddar refers to a fabric that is handspun and handwoven. It has a unique appealing rugged texture. India’s father of nation Mahatma Gandhi used this fabric as an instrumental tool to protest against the British mill-made fabric. This fabric played a very crucial role in India’s fight for Independence. It was a major commodity of export to Europe during the 17th and 18th centuries. However, it lost its sheen owing to the onset of cheaper powerloom fabrics.

In recent years, however, the Indian government is actively involved in reviving the khadi industry and encouraging people to buy more khadi products. Prime Minster Narendra Modi has been paying extra attention to promoting and supporting khadi artisans and khadi karyakartas. He has emphasised the crucial role of khadi in strengthening the rural Indian economy and talked about it on several platforms including various episodes of his monthly radio programme ‘Mann ki Baat’.

Despite these efforts, Khadi has not managed to secure a prominent place in many people’s wardrobes. It appears that the traditional image of khadi as a fabric primarily for coarse men’s kurtas and Nehru jackets still persists in people’s minds. But the good news is that now khadi has become as soft as silk and as comfortable as mulmul.

Realising khadi’s wonderful ability to keep oneself cool during hot summers and warm during harsh winters, its definition is now being redefined by fashion designers and other textile brands. Today khadi is not only cotton made, but also comes in variants of wool, silk and many other blends. Khadi beautifully takes the shape and forms of diverse products ranging from denim jeans to lehengas. From ethnic ensembles to western silhouettes, khadi can be a suitable fashion choice for office wear, ethnic wear, and evening wear for eco-conscious people.

In today’s context, when the world is fighting climate change and advocating the implementation of the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), the importance of khadi has grown multi-fold due to its minimal carbon footprint.

In India, the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is a governmental body that is actively involved in the planning, promotion, organisation and implementation of programmes for the development of khadi. KVIC under its Khadi Vikas Yojana (KVY) has decided to set up a Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK) in association with the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)—a pioneer institute in design education which has been playing an active role in reviving the khadi design. The objective of the CoEK is to develop new khadi products for high-end domestic and international markets and to strengthen the ‘Khadi’ brand. The CoEK will work on making khadi fashionable for youth using colour forecasts and fashion trends. It will also be actively involved in promoting khadi through interesting packaging and branding.

The expected outcomes of the project are positioning khadi as fashionable apparel and product for today’s youth, providing assistance to khadi institutions to increase their business by providing new designs and quality of khadi, and strengthening the brand ‘Khadi’.

Along with CoEK, KVIC, in collaboration with FDCI and other big textile brands, is reintroducing khadi in much more appealing ways in contemporary prints and silhouettes. Companies like Peter England, Raymond, and Arvind Ltd have come out with khadi-based collections. Moreover, many leading fashion designers in India are successfully revamping khadi in their own ways. Designer labels like Ritu Kumar and Sabyasachi Mukherjee have been using khadi extensively in their collections owing to its attributes like subdued texture, breathability and dyeability. Other designers such as Payal Jain, Anju Modi, and Rohit Bal have used khadi in creating western silhouettes, Indian wear, and even bridal and fusion wear, whereas designers like Raghavendra Rathore and Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla have embellished khadi with dori work and chikankari. Some other labels like Anavila Misra and Metaphor Racha find khadi suitable for creating elegant sarees.

The Pot Plant, 11.11 / eleven eleven, Red Sister Blue, Runaway Bicycle, Yavi, and Maku Textiles are some niche brands that are using khadi to create modern, comfortable silhouettes. These designs cater to the tastes of the conscious urban consumer who values sustainability and style.

But what is required today is for the upcoming generation of fashion designers to contribute to nation building by creatively using khadi in their collections. Extensive efforts are also required on the part of textile researchers to enhance the quality of handspun yarns and woven fabrics.

Today, khadi has evolved into a status symbol, representing empathy and sensitivity towards this authentically Indian fabric. Fashion and textile designers should commit to elevating this locally-produced material to international platforms, recognising its place in high-end and luxury fashion. Moreover, khadi provides an ideal medium for creating conscious and sustainable fashion. The addition of natural dyeing and printing techniques could further enhance the appeal of various khadi fabrics, making them the preferred choice for sustainable fashion enthusiasts. A positive consumer outlook towards khadi fashion could greatly boost the growth of the khadi industry, ensuring it receives the recognition and appreciation it deserves.