As climate change dominates the headlines, the apparel industry is facing an increasing amount of scrutiny regarding its environmental and social impacts. The industry has grown exponentially over the years and is now a multi-billion-dollar industry with an incredibly complex global supply chain. During the industry’s evolution, profit has been prioritised over its environmental and social responsibility, and unfortunately, the planet has been exhausted and garment workers exploited in the process.

The problem with the industry is that as it transitions towards sustainability, every aspect of its complex supply chain needs addressing and evaluating; from how the materials are sourced, how garments are manufactured, who makes the garments and what their working conditions are, how the garments are packaged and shipped, and finally, what happens to them when they have finished their lifecycle. To ensure sustainability, each part of this chain needs to implement sustainable practices, which is difficult, especially considering the globalisation of the industry as a whole.

A crucial area that needs addressing in apparels supply chain involves the sourcing, production and processing of the materials used. How these materials are sourced and treated can impact the environment in a number of ways, directly contributing to water consumption and pollution, soil degradation, greenhouse gas emissions, rainforest destruction and landfill waste.

The Problem with Conventional Fabrics

When it comes to the world’s apparel, the most prominent fabrics on the market include polyester, cotton, nylon, wool, leather, acrylic and rayon. The environmental impact of these fabrics is huge, and brands are going to have to rethink their material sourcing as conscious consumerism grows and sustainability becomes the focal point of the global agenda.

The most unsustainable of these fabrics include polyester, acrylic and nylon, which make up around 60 per cent1 of the world’s apparel. These materials are derived from oil – a non-renewable resource – and are non-biodegradable and directly contribute to global greenhouse gas emissions. They became popular due to their unique characteristics which allow them to be mass-produced, affordable, durable, elastic, and easy to maintain. However, every time these fabrics are washed, they shed plastic fibres, also known as microfibres/microplastics, which end up in the ocean. It is estimated that between 200,000 and 500,000 tonnes of microplastics from textiles enter the global marine environment annually.

Growing and harvesting conventional cotton also has negative environmental impacts. To grow cotton, vast amounts of chemical fertilisers and pesticides are used. These chemicals run off into the surrounding ecosystems, polluting the water, degrading the soil and destroying nearby biodiversity. Furthermore, cotton production requires a huge amount of water; 10,000 litres of water is needed to produce 1 kg of cotton and 2,700 litres is needed to make 1 cotton T-shirt2. The cotton trade has also been linked to numerous human rights violations with much of its production traced back to forced labour camps in China’s Xinjiang region3.

Leather can often be thought of as a by-product of the meat and dairy industries, but this is not the case. Leather is a valued co-product and financially contributes to the system that involves the rearing, slaughtering and exploitation of animals. Therefore, all of the environmental consequences of the beef and dairy industry are also linked to leather production. This includes the deforestation of 70 per cent of the Amazon4, the emission of mass amounts of methane, and water pollution due to untreated wastewater and eutrophication. In fact, out of all the materials used in fashion, leather has the greatest impact on eutrophication, which causes overgrowth of plant life in water waterways, subsequently killing marine life due to the lack of oxygen available, which results in ‘dead zones’. Lastly, vast amounts of energy and toxic chemicals are needed to turn cattle skin into leather, which can be incredibly dangerous to surrounding communities and workers.

The Rise of Sustainable Fabrics

The word ‘sustainable’ is thrown around everywhere nowadays and it can be hard to keep up as the world adapts. However, sustainable fabrics do exist and are becoming more popular amongst fashion brands and retailers. Ethical companies, innovators, researchers and scientists are getting creative and producing sustainable materials that are derived from a variety of unsuspecting sources.

Sustainable fabrics are usually made from natural or recycled materials, are produced consciously and have little to no environmental impact. Production of sustainable fabrics involves less water, fewer chemicals, regenerative farming methods, renewable power sources, less pollution and no biodiversity or ecosystem loss. Another important aspect of sustainable fabric is how that fabric has been processed – for example, are the dyes used non-polluting, non-toxic and non-carcinogenic? In addition to this, for a fabric to be sustainable the entire lifecycle of that fabric must be considered, ensuring a circular loop whereby no waste is created.

Sustainable material innovation is happening everywhere, with global innovators thinking of ways to create eco-friendly fabrics using unconventional methods. Many of these discoveries involve the utilisation of other industries’ by-products, which otherwise would have been discarded as waste. Other ways involve fabrics derived from recycled materials or even made artificially in labs. Producing fabrics that are derived from by-products and recycled materials helps to reduce waste and reduces the need for resources to be extracted from the planet. Material innovation is evolving every day, bringing with it hope for a sustainable fashion future.

New Sustainable Fabrics to Look Out For

Sustainable Leather Alternatives

•  Mylo Unleather

Mylo isa vegan leather alternative made from mycelium – the branching undergroundroot-like system of mushrooms. Mycelium is grown on a bed of renewable, organicmatter whereby millions of cells grow, forming an interconnected 3D network.The mycelium is then harvested and processed to form Mylo, which can then betanned and dyed. Mylo was developed by materials innovation company, BoltThreads, who have worked with several fashion brands including Stella McCartney,Lululemon and Adidas.

• Reishi Leather

Reishiis another mycelium-born vegan leather alternative developed by thebiotechnology company, MycoWorks. The mycelium is grown from speciallyengineered cells which are then treated via a chromium-free tanning process.The material has been praised for its strength, durability and hand-feel.Luxury fashion brand Hermes partnered with MycoWorks and developed their firstReishi-made handbag – Sylvania.

• Lab Grown Leather

Biotechcompany VitroLabs Inc has harnessed the power of technology to developlab-grown leather. They raised $46 million in funding last year and are thefirst company set to cultivate lab-grown leather at scale. From a single cow’sbiopsy, VitroLabs company cultivates authentic leather, without theenvironmental or ethical impacts of conventional leather.

• Vegea

    Italian bio-innovation company Vegea has developed an alternative to leather which is made from by-products of the wine industry. Also known as ‘grape leather’, Vegea fabric is derived from grape leftovers. The production process involves no toxic solvents, heavy metals or dangerous substances. The company prioritises sustainability as it bridges the gap between chemistry and agriculture and showcases how agricultural waste can be harnessed to create new eco-sustainable products. The material has been used by many brands including Calvin Klein, H&M, Diadora, Patagonia and Tommy Hilfiger.

Recycled Textiles

•   Circulose 

    Swedish material innovation company Circulose has developed its sustainable fabric ‘Circulose’; a revolutionary material made out of 100 per cent textile waste. This material can make fashion circular and close the loop for textile waste. Circulose is produced by shredding discarded clothes into a slurry, which is then dried out to produce sheets of pure Circulose, which can then be used to produce clothes. This entire process is powered by renewable energy and removes the need for unsustainable cotton farming. The Swedish company has collaborated with fashion giants H&M and Zara in their eco-collections, giving the industry a much-needed push towards circularity.

•  NuCycl

   NyCycl has been developed by Evrnu, a textile innovation company determined to create a circular ecosystem. NuCycl has been created using a wide range of regenerative fibre technologies that can recycle discarded clothes multiple times. These technologies come with several environmental benefits including reduced waste, lower greenhouse gas emissions and decreased water consumption. Adidas and Stella McCartney teamed up to develop the Infinite Hoodie, the first garment made with NuCycl fibres. Designed with the end in mind, this hoodie can be disassembled and reused for future NuCycl products at the end of its life cycle.

Bio-Waste Fibres

•  Agraloop BioFibre

   The clean-tech company Agraloop has pioneered a way to upcycle agricultural crops and transform them into a textile-grade fibre called ‘Agraloop BioFibre’. This new natural fibre is entirely circular and has a variety of environmental benefits – it uses 100 per cent less water than conventional cotton, has 72 per cent less eutrophication than conventional linen, and emits 53 per cent less CO2 than conventional hemp. The material is made out of leftovers from “various food and medicine crops including, oilseed hemp/flax, CBD hemp, banana, and pineapple.”5 The company has worked with several major apparel brands including Adidas, Nike and H&M with its technology ready to scale.

•  Pinatex & Pinayarn

   Material innovation company Ananas Anam is working alongside nature, having pioneered a way to create sustainable vegan textiles. Their products include Pinatex, a leather alternative that contains no animal products or toxic chemicals, and Pinayarn, a low-impact yarn that can be used for woven and jersey fabrics. Pinatex and Pinayarn’s fibres are derived from the leaves of pineapple plants that would otherwise go to waste and are 100 per cent compostable and biodegradable. Iconic brands, including Selfridges and Nike, have both collaborated with Ananas Anam using its Pinatex as an alternative to leather.

•  Cork Fabric

    Portuguese company Portugaliacork is producing fabrics from the bark of cork oak trees. From this bark, they produce cork fabric, also known as cork leather or cork textile. This fabric can be used for a range of industries, including apparel. In partnership with Corklane, it has developed vegan handbags, wallets and other accessories made from cork which are cruelty-free, ethical and sustainable. Corklane has even produced yoga equipment from cork granules. There are many advantages to using cork fabrics, including renewability, biodegradability and durability. Cork fabrics are also water-resistant, lightweight, hypoallergenic and versatile, making them a readily available sustainable alternative to conventional textiles.

Synthetic Alternatives

•   Kintra

    Derived from the sugar from corn and wheat, American company Kintra Fibres has developed ‘Kintra’, a bio-based and biodegradable alternative to polyester. Unlike conventional polyester (PET) made from oil, Kintra is made from 100 per cent bio-based inputs. Kintra yarn comes with several beneficial properties, which are on par or better than PET; these include being super strong, soft and comfortable. Kintra has partnered with environmental apparel brand PANGAIA to create biodegradable polyester made from plants, in the hope to end microplastic pollution from textiles.

•  Clarus

   Clarus technologies is revolutionising natural fibres. With this technology, natural fibres, including cotton, hemp and wool are transformed into high-performing textiles with the same characteristics as synthetics. Developed by tech company Natural Fibre Welding, the patented Clarus technologies offers an alternative to synthetic materials which is 100 per cent biodegradable and compostable, paving the way for a plastic-free future. Luxury apparel brand Ralph Lauren partnered with Natural Fibre Welding to create its RLX Clarus Polo Shirt; the world’s first-ever high-performance cotton apparel.

Carbon-Negative Materials

•   AirCarbon

   At the forefront of sustainable material innovation sits Newlight Technologies’ AirCarbon material. After decades of research, it has developed a leather alternative carbon-negative material, which has the capability of absorbing CO2 from the atmosphere. This regenerative biomaterial works by mimicking the processes used in nature. The company announced a partnership with Nike in 2021, and is planning to collaborate with the global footwear brand to develop regenerative sneakers derived from carbon-negative biomaterial.

•   LanzaTech

   Biotech startup LanzaTech is another carbon-negative, carbon capture innovator that is using technology to heal nature. It has partnered with apparel brand Lululemon to develop the world’s first fabric derived from recycled carbon emissions. Using its technology, LanzaTech has found a way to transform captured carbon emissions into a waste-gas-based polyester, which has the same characteristics as virgin polyester. It is thus a truly sustainable alternative and a ground-breaking discovery which could reshape the fabrics that make up the world’s apparel.

Can these fabrics be mass-produced?

Many of these technologies which enable alternatives to conventional fabrics are just starting to emerge. Fashion brands and retailers are showing interest in these alternatives, with Lululemon, Stella McCartney, H&M and Adidas partnering with these innovative companies to produce sustainable products. As textile waste continually grows and conventional fabrics continue to pollute the planet, these technologies and alternatives must be funded, supported and prioritised. The technology for sustainable fabrics does exist, and over the next couple of years, as these innovations become more accessible to brands and gain more traction in the industry, these materials will be able to be mass-produced at scale and should become the most prominent option used for global apparel.

Conclusion

Conventional materials may have provided the apparel industry with a pathway to quick mass production and consumption, but the impacts are now hard to ignore. As consumer trends shift, purchasing behaviours are being driven by a brand’s sustainability and social responsibility commitments, and therefore, it is becoming more evident that these factors need to become the central point of business models. Sustainable materials are constantly evolving from air-capturing fabrics, upcycled agricultural waste, mycelium-grown leather and biodegradable polyester. As a result, sustainable alternatives are now available and offer a viable solution to apparel production. It is now up to apparel brands to prioritise these fabrics over virgin, synthetic raw materials that have exhausted and polluted the planet.