As fashion trends change with the seasons, there is a huge demand for production to be completed within the given timeframe. It is well known that garment manufacturing is a labour-intensive industry, but this scenario is gradually changing, and there is an increasing need for process automation.

Developing countries, particularly in Asia, have become garment manufacturing hubs due to the availability of cheap labour and natural resources. However, as production is becoming fast-paced, ensuring good quality and consistency in the products has become necessary to face stiff competition. Although the initial investment is high, several manufacturers across countries are adopting automation technology to enhance production efficiency, improve quality, and stay competitive in the global market.

Countries Investing in Garment Automation

• China: China has been a leader in garment manufacturing for decades and has been investing in automation to maintain its position. With rising labour costs and the need for increased productivity, Chinese manufacturers are implementing automated cutting, sewing, and assembly systems to streamline operations, reduce labour-intensive tasks, and improve overall efficiency.

• Bangladesh: Bangladesh is one of the largest exporters of garments globally and has recognised the importance of automation in staying competitive. The country has been investing in automated cutting machines, sewing robotics, and other advanced technologies to increase productivity, reduce costs, and improve working conditions for labourers.

• Vietnam: Vietnam has emerged as a major player in the global garment industry and is rapidly adopting automation. The government has implemented policies to promote technological advancement and attract investment in automation technologies. Vietnam’s manufacturers are embracing automation to enhance productivity, and quality control, and meet the demand for faster production cycles.

• Turkiye: Turkiye has a strong textile and garment manufacturing sector and has been embracing automation to improve efficiency and competitiveness. Turkish manufacturers are investing in advanced cutting technologies, computerised sewing machines, and digital printing systems to optimise production processes, reduce labour costs, and enhance product quality.

• Germany: Germany is known for its precision engineering and has been at the forefront of garment automation technologies. German manufacturers focus on implementing advanced robotics, computerised sewing machines, and digital printing systems to achieve high-quality production, customisation, and efficient manufacturing processes.

• Japan: Japan has a long history of technological innovation, and its garment industry is no exception. Japanese manufacturers utilise automation technologies such as computerised sewing machines, robotic systems, and advanced cutting solutions to optimise efficiency, quality, and customisation capabilities.

• United States: In the United States, automation in garment making is gaining traction as manufacturers seek to reshore production and reduce reliance on overseas manufacturing. Automation technologies such as robotic sewing, computerised cutting, and digital printing systems are being adopted to improve production efficiency, enhance product quality, and respond quickly to market demands.

• India: India is joining the league of countries adopting automation in garment making by replacing much manual work with automated machines for fabric inspection, cutting, sewing, finishing, labelling and packing. Leading manufacturers like Shahi Exports and Madura Garments have implemented several mechanised systems to control quality and deliver better products.

Factors Driving Automation

The adoption of automation in garment making is driven by several factors, including rising labour costs, the need for increased production efficiency, the desire for consistent quality, and the demand for customisation and faster turnaround times. Further, investing in automation helps companies in gaining a competitive edge in the global garment industry.

It is important to note that while automation brings significant advantages, it requires initial investment, proper training, and maintenance to ensure effective implementation. Additionally, human expertise and creativity still play a crucial role in areas such as design, product development, and quality control, where automation complements human skills rather than replacing them entirely.

Advantages of Automation

• Increased productivity and efficiency: Automated machines can perform tasks faster and more consistently than human workers, leading to higher output and shorter lead times.

• Improved quality control: Computer-controlled machines maintain consistent stitch quality, pattern alignment, and cutting, stitching, printing, and finishing accuracy resulting in improved product quality and reduced defects.

• Cost reduction: Automated processes reduce labour costs by minimising the need for manual labour, lowering the risk of human errors and rework, and optimising material usage, thus reducing waste and expenses.

• Flexibility and customisation: Automated machines can quickly switch between different garment styles, sizes, and designs, allowing for efficient production of small or large batch runs or individualised items.

• Faster time to market: It helps businesses respond quickly to changing market trends, customer demands, and fashion seasons, reducing lead times and improving competitiveness.

• Integration with workflow: All the departments and processes can be seamlessly integrated such as cutting, sewing, and finishing, ensuring a smooth and efficient flow of garments.

• Data collection and analysis: Automation helps to monitor the machine performance, and production metrics can help to identify opportunities for process optimisation, monitor machine efficiency, and make data-driven decisions to improve production workflows.

• Enhanced safety and ergonomics: Automation eliminates or reduces the need for repetitive and physically demanding tasks, improving workplace safety and reducing the risk of injuries associated with manual labour.

• Large order management: Can handle large orders in less time and reproducibility of identical products is achievable.

Disadvantages Of Automation

• High initial investment: Implementing automation in garment making requires a significant upfront investment in machinery, technology, and training, and can pose a financial challenge for some businesses.

• Limited flexibility for complex designs: Some designs may require manual intervention or specialised techniques that automated machines cannot replicate accurately.

• Technical complexity and maintenance: Automated machines involve complex technology and software systems, requiring specialised skills for operation, maintenance, and troubleshooting and require dedicated technical support.

• Workforce displacement and training: It can lead to workforce displacement as machines replace certain manual tasks. This can have social and economic implications, including job losses and the need for retraining or upskilling workers to transition into new roles within the automated production environment.

• Adaptability to market changes: Adopting automation requires careful consideration of market dynamics and changing consumer preferences. Investing in automation technologies may lock businesses into specific production capabilities, making it challenging to adapt quickly to shifts in market demands or emerging trends.

• Potential dependency on technology: Reliance on automated processes and machinery may create a risk of disruptions or production delays in case of equipment malfunctions, software glitches, or power outages. Businesses need to have contingency plans and redundancies in place to mitigate such risks.

Therefore, before going for automation, it is important for businesses to carefully evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of automation in garment making based on their specific needs, production volumes, market demands, and available resources. Striking the right balance between automation and manual labour, along with strategic planning, can help businesses leverage the benefits of automation while addressing potential challenges.

Role of Automation in Different Segments

Automation plays a significant role in the garment-making industry in streamlining production processes, improving efficiency, and reducing labour-intensive tasks. The following are some key areas where automation is commonly applied in garment manufacturing:

1. Production Planning and Control: Production planning and control (PPC) software helps manage cutting and sewing operations in terms of scheduling, job tracking, and resource allocation. As companies are looking for producing more styles, with smaller order sizes, higher work content (SMV or standard minute value), more value addition and surface embellishments using prints, embroideries or special washes at reduced lead times, the manual planning systems are failing to cope with such complexities.

• The PPC software provides visibility into production orders, machine utilisation, and work-in-progress (WIP).

• This software helps optimise production flow, monitor progress, and ensure timely delivery.

• Examples of PPC software include Tukatech TUKAplan, GPRO Planner, and CIMPRO.

• FastReactPlan software from Coats Digital is being used by India-based Madura Garments. The software has been integrated with its SAP system to improve the data integrity between departments. The software helped to increase the company’s operational efficiency in shirts production by 7.1 per cent in 2 years. The software provides clear visibility on all orders, transparency of information across departments and quick re-planning in dynamic situations.

• VisionPLM is a PLM software that can integrate all data related designs, fabrics, trims, their availability, visibility across platforms and increase coordination, control and efficiency of product development and sourcing.

2. Cutting and Fabric Handling: Automated cutting machines use computer-controlled systems to precisely cut fabric according to pre-defined patterns.

• Cutting is preceded by marker making. Marker-making software uses computer-aided design (CAD) software for developing digitised patterns that eliminate the need for manual pattern drafting and ensures consistency between design and cutting. It enables accurate pattern development, grading, and nesting to optimise material utilisation. It takes into account pattern pieces, sizes, fabric width, and lay length. Popular CAD software includes Gerber AccuMark, Lectra Diamino, Modaris and Optitex Marker.

• These machines can significantly speed up the cutting process, reduce material waste, and ensure accuracy and consistency in pattern cutting.

• They can be easily scaled up or down based on production demands, improving flexibility in manufacturing operations.

• Handle different types of fabrics like woven, knits etc of varying fabric thicknesses and are capable of cutting complex shapes and patterns.

• For fabric handling, these systems can unroll, spread, and position fabric layers automatically, streamlining the entire cutting process and reducing manual labour.

• Allow operators to program cutting parameters, monitor cutting progress, and troubleshoot issues efficiently with minimum training.

• Some of the automated cutting machines are Gerber Cutter (Blade), Plasma Cutting (cutting is done using a high-velocity jet of high-temperature ionised gas Argon), Water jet (a fine jet of water at a pressure of 60,000 lb per sq. inch is passed through a nozzle at a very high speed to cut the fabric plies) and Laser cutting (used for single ply for best quality with fabrics and leather).

• Popular automatic cutting software includes Gerber AccuMark, Lectra Vector, and Eastman Eagle.

• FastReactFabric by Coats Digital is a real-time cutting room planning software that helps to optimise fabric utilisation and reduce fabric wastage. The system optimises cut-plan according to packing ratios, allocate work automatically by integrating cut-ratio plan to CAD and laying plan, automatic arrangement of end-bits, estimate fabric requirements accurately, quality control, feedback systems and real-time reporting.

3.  Sewing and Assembly: Sewing automation involves the use of computerised sewing machines that can perform a variety of stitching patterns and operations for quality control and uniformity across garments.

• These machines can automate repetitive sewing tasks, such as straight seams, buttonholes, and decorative stitching, reducing labour requirements and increasing productivity.

• Eliminate variations in stitch length, tension, seam alignment and component attachment.

• The advanced technology and programmable controls help to perform a wide range of stitching patterns, seam types, and decorative techniques with high precision and consistency.

• Cobots (robotic systems) can assist operators in sewing and assembly tasks, such as material handling, pinning, tacking, or attaching components while working alongside humans to increase efficiency and productivity.

• Can handle a larger volume of work, stitch at higher speeds, and process multiple garments simultaneously, resulting in increased productivity and faster turnaround times.

• Can be programmed for quick changeovers between different sewing tasks or garment styles.

• Can help reduce physical strain on workers by automating repetitive and physically demanding tasks.

• The sewing and assembly systems can be integrated with quality control mechanisms that help in real-time inspection and detection of defects during the sewing process leading to prompt rectification of the garments.

• Automation has been achieved in various types of machines like single-needle lock stitch, double-needle lock stitch, overlock, button stitch, buttonhole machine etc using work aids. Examples include a surging machine (overlocking of edges of a trouser pattern), pocket attaching machine, automatic belt-loop attaching machine, and buttonhole indexer.

• Use of General Sewing Data (GSD) to find the SMV for precise costing, line balancing, capacity, and efficiency calculations and to improve operators’ efficiency.

• Eton Systems provides a fully automated and highly flexible material handling system on the sewing floor, which is designed to minimise manual material handling. The system uses an overhead conveyor with individual carriers for material transportation from one workstation to the other.

• Vibemac, an Italian company, has been providing automated sewing machines for the apparel industry for the last four decades. Its latest sewing machines have automatic loading and unloading stations. Example includes pocket hemming machine V700/701, and the modified version V700LDR.

4.  Embroidery and Applique: Embroidery machines automate the process of creating intricate designs and patterns on garments by using computerised control systems. They provide endless possibilities and design flexibility.

• They can stitch detailed patterns, logos, lettering, and decorative elements onto garments, enhancing their visual appeal, brand identity, customisation and personalisation of products.

• Computerised controls ensure accurate placement of stitches, stitching complex designs quickly and efficiently, resulting in uniformity and high-quality embroidery across multiple garments, and can handle high-volume orders efficiently.

• Offer durable and long-lasting stitching that can withstand regular washing, wear, and tear.

• Offer the capability to switch between multiple colours and threads simultaneously and automatically.

• Can handle various types of fabrics, including woven, knit, or synthetic materials. They accommodate different fabric thicknesses, textures, and stretch properties, and items such as T-shirts, jackets, caps, bags, or shoes.

• Can be integrated with design software and CAD systems for easy digitisation of design files, precise pattern placement, and seamless communication between the design and production stages.

• Embroidery design software helps create and modify embroidery designs such as resizing, rotating, merging, or splitting designs, adding text, or changing stitch properties. Examples of embroidery design software include Hatch Embroidery, Floriani Total Control- U, and Embrilliance.

• Embroidery digitising software allows users to convert graphic designs or artwork into digital embroidery files. It provides tools to create stitch patterns, define stitch types, adjust densities, and assign colours to specific areas. Popular embroidery digitising software includes Wilcom EmbroideryStudio, and Tajima DGML by Pulse.

5.  Heat Transfers and Print Applications: Automated heat transfer machines and digital printers enable the application of designs, logos, or graphics onto garments accurately and consistently. This helps in the reproduction of design, allowing for customisation, branding, and mass production of printed garments.

            Automated Heat Transfer Machines

• Ensure uniform heat distribution and consistent pressure application, resulting in high-quality transfers with excellent colour saturation and clarity.

• Multiple garments can be printed simultaneously, significantly increasing production speed and efficiency.

• Such prints are typically durable and long-lasting. The transferred designs are resistant to fading, cracking, or peeling, ensuring that the garment maintains its visual appeal after multiple washes or prolonged use.

            Digital Printers

• They offer speed, versatility, customisation, and high-quality results by producing vibrant, durable, and visually appealing garments that meet customer expectations and reflect brand identity.

• They provide high-quality print output with high-resolution printing capabilities, producing sharp, vibrant, and detailed prints with fine lines, small texts, colour gradients, and photographic images on fabric.

• Allow for creative freedom, and design flexibility, and offer customisation options to meet customer preferences.

• Enable faster production turnaround times as designs can be printed directly from digital files onto fabric, reducing lead times and enabling on-demand or just-in-time production.

• Digital printing is particularly cost-effective for small to medium-sized production runs.

• It is considered more environmentally friendly compared to traditional printing methods as it eliminates the need for screens, dyes, or chemicals used in screen printing, reducing water consumption and chemical waste.

• Digital printers can be seamlessly integrated with CAD systems to enable efficient design file preparation, easy manipulation of design elements, and seamless printing processes.

6.  Garment Finishing: Automation is also used in garment finishing processes such as pressing, steaming, and folding which reduces manual labour and time and achieves consistent finishing results.

• Automatic use of steam and pressure to fabric to effectively remove wrinkles, creases, and fabric distortions, and achieve a smooth and polished appearance resulting in a crisp and professional finish.

• There is precise control over steam pressure, temperature, and press duration. This enables operators to tailor the process according to fabric type, garment style, and finishing requirements, ensuring optimal results without the risk of scorching or damaging the fabric.

• They can handle various fabric materials, such as cotton, linen, silk, and synthetic blends and a wide range of garment types, including shirts, blouses, dresses, trousers, and jackets ensuring consistent and quality finishing across different garment styles.

• The safety features like emergency stop buttons, temperature sensors, and safety interlocks help to prevent accidents and minimise the risk of injuries.

• They are durable and designed to withstand continuous and prolonged use in a demanding production environment.

• Thermotron’s Automatic Folding Machine Line has STP 1000 (automatic folding machine), PV40 (automatic bagging machine) and KL60 (automatic sealing machine). It is a fully automated line of machines and needs just one operator to manage it. These machines can fold, pack and seal about 5,500 garments in 8 hours.

• Lingchuang Automated Folding Machine is powered by Chinese technology and marketed by Magnum Resources (India) that can automatically fold and pack garments. It has an average packing speed of 500-700 pieces per hour and can pack several types of garments including T-shirts, jackets, denims, trousers, sweaters etc—all automatically.

• ROQfold, an automatic folding machine by ROQ, a Portugal-based company, provides a highly flexible system that can fold any kind of apparel with or without sleeves at an approximate speed of 700 pieces/hour. It needs just one operator to load the work onto the machine.

7. Automated inspection and quality control systems in the garment industry utilise advanced technologies such as machine vision, image processing, and artificial intelligence to automate the inspection and quality control processes ensuring that garments meet stringent quality standards, minimise human errors and improve operator efficiency and effectiveness. These systems are designed to detect and identify defects – even minute defects or deviations, inconsistencies, or deviations in garments, ensuring that only high-quality products reach the market.

• Can detect various types of defects, including stitching errors, misaligned patterns, fabric flaws, incorrect labelling, missing buttons, or irregularities in colour or print. The systems use image analysis algorithms to compare the captured images with pre-defined quality standards, allowing for accurate defect identification.

• Provide a consistent and objective evaluation of garment quality by following pre-defined criteria, ensuring uniformity and reliability in quality assessment.

• Offer faster inspection speeds that enable faster feedback loops and quicker resolution of quality issues.

• Early detection of defects helps for timely corrective actions and rework and scrap rates can be significantly reduced. This helps in cost savings and reduction in material waste.

• Real-time monitoring can generate data and insights that can be used to identify patterns, trends, and areas for process optimisation to enable continuous improvement, minimise defects, and enhance overall production efficiency.

• It has traceability features that allow recording and documentation of inspection results. It provides a comprehensive record of inspection history, aiding in quality management and compliance with industry regulations.

• This data can be used for quality assurance, product traceability, and auditing purposes.

8. Inventory and order management in the garment-making industry involves the efficient tracking, organisation, and control of raw materials, WIP, finished goods, and customer orders.

• These systems help in accurate demand forecasting by analysing historical data, market trends, and customer demand. Manufacturers can estimate future demand and adjust their inventory levels and production schedules accordingly.

• It allows manufacturers to monitor inventory levels, locations, and movement of raw materials, components, and finished goods.

• It involves maintaining adequate stock levels, tracking material consumption, and establishing reorder points to prevent shortages. Efficient supplier management and communication are essential for timely procurement and minimising lead times.

• It involves managing WIP and monitoring the progress of garments at different stages of

• production, identifying bottlenecks, and ensuring efficient flow through the manufacturing process for proactive management and prevention of delays.

• Order management software or enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems can automate and streamline the order fulfilment process, improving efficiency and reducing errors. Examples include Oracle NetSuite ERP, TallyPrime, AlignBooks, Marg ERP 9 Software, Absolute ERP etc.

• BlueCherry by CGS is a comprehensive ERP solution designed for the fashion and apparel industry. It includes modules for inventory management, order processing, production planning, sourcing, and logistics management. It offers features such as demand forecasting, material tracking, order management, production scheduling, and reporting.

• ApparelMagic is a comprehensive software solution for the garment and fashion industry that covers inventory management, order processing, and production tracking. It offers features for inventory tracking, order management, production planning, material sourcing, and reporting. Provides integration capabilities with e-commerce platforms, accounting software, and shipping carriers.

• It can help in effective production planning and scheduling by considering factors such as available capacity, material availability, and order priorities.

• Implementing a Just-in-Time (JIT) inventory approach can help reduce inventory holding costs and improve cash flow and remove waste.

• Effective collaboration with suppliers can enable better coordination, timely deliveries, and proactive problem-solving.

Efficient inventory and order management practices in the garment-making industry contribute to improved customer satisfaction, reduced costs, optimised production, and enhanced competitiveness. Implementing robust systems, leveraging technology, and fostering strong partnerships throughout the supply chain is key to successful inventory and order management.

Conclusion

Automation in garment making has proven to be a transformative force in the fashion industry. It has brought about numerous benefits, including increased production efficiency, improved quality control, reduced labour costs, and faster time-to-market. By replacing manual tasks with automated processes, garment manufacturers have been able to streamline their operations, achieve higher levels of precision, and meet the growing demand for fast fashion.

Automation technologies, such as computerised pattern cutting, robotic sewing machines, and automated fabric inspection systems, have significantly improved the overall speed and accuracy of garment production. These technologies have the potential to eliminate human errors, reduce material waste, and optimise the use of resources, leading to more sustainable practices.

Additionally, automation has enabled greater flexibility and customisation in garment manufacturing. With advanced software and robotic systems, designers and manufacturers can quickly adapt to changing fashion trends and consumer preferences, offering a wider range of styles, sizes, and personalised options.

While automation has undoubtedly brought many benefits, it has also raised concerns about job displacement and its impact on the labour force. As certain tasks become automated, companies and governments need to invest in reskilling and upskilling programmes to ensure that workers can adapt to new roles and technologies. Moreover, it is essential to create a supportive environment that fosters the collaboration between humans and machines, allowing for the augmentation of human capabilities rather than their replacement.

It is beyond doubt that automation in garment making has revolutionised the fashion industry, offering enhanced efficiency, quality, and customisation. However, careful consideration and proactive measures are needed to address the challenges and ensure a balanced and sustainable future for both technology and human workers in this evolving landscape.