Veganism encompasses more than just the food we consume. It is a philosophy and way of life that forbids the use of animals in products, entertainment, or food. By eliminating cows from accessories such as clutches, vegan leather symbolises this ideology. But is it sustainable? Although alternatives to leather that avoid causing animal suffering are preferable from a welfare perspective, they may still be harmful to the environment.

The complexities of vegan leather make it one of the most intricate materials to assess in terms of sustainability. Brands are increasingly seeking vegan alternatives in response to the growing demand for environmentally friendly clothing. The sustainable fashion market is currently valued at approximately $6.5 billion, and it is anticipated to increase to $10 billion by 2025. By 2030, that figure is expected to reach $15 billion.1

Vegan leather’s popularity is on the rise, particularly among those who appreciate the appearance of leather but are environmentally conscious. But is vegan leather truly a more environmentally friendly option than genuine leather?

Though vegan leather might look like real leather, it is made from either synthetic or plant-based materials. PVC and polyurethane are frequently used in the production of vegan leather, especially within the fast fashion industry. These materials, made up of petroleum and plastic, are not the most environmentally friendly choices.

However, vegan leather can also be fashioned from more natural substances such as cork, paper, and even fruits like apples, oranges, and bananas. Yes, you read that correctly. The same ingredients that make up your morning smoothie could also be used to create your handbag.

Is vegan leather sustainable?

Whether or not vegan leather can be truly referred to as “sustainable” depends on how it is produced. For example, while alternatives to leather made of plastic do not directly harm animals during manufacture, they might still take years to decompose, negatively impacting the environment.

But is plastic pollution more detrimental than the environmental effects of conventional leather? In addition to over a billion animals killed annually for their skins and hides, the tanning process has a harmful reputation. Heavy metals used in tanning and dyeing can leak into waterways, killing marine life, and potentially harming production facility staff.

Sustainability considerations that are important to consumers will determine how you should proceed. No eco-friendly product can ever be perfect. While plastic-based leather may not directly kill animals and may fail to biodegrade, emitting harmful toxins, real leather directly harms animals and involves chemical production. It somewhat creates a “lesser of two evils” scenario.

Let’s not overlook the plant-based substitutes like apples, oranges, and bananas mentioned earlier. Several are gaining popularity, such as vegan leather MuSkin, made from mushroom caps. It is said to be softer and more water-resistant than conventional leather, as it is tanned with non-toxic substances.

It is vital for consumers to learn about the origins and manufacturing processes of the vegan leather products they purchase. Land use and greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions related to animal agriculture influence how real leather impacts the environment. The livestock sector uses more agricultural land than any other industry through grazing and feed crops.

Consequently, this significantly affects biodiversity, water management, and climate change. For example, Brazil’s cattle industry has contributed substantially to deforestation, biodiversity loss, and climate change.

Vegan substitutes are generally considered to have a smaller environmental footprint than original leather, although there are clear drawbacks, especially with plastics. Plastic clothing poses risks both during and after its useful life, as it may end up in a landfill or body of water. This is unsustainable since it takes years for harmful chemicals to break down, releasing them into the environment. Between 200,000 and 500,000 tonnes of microplastics from textiles enter the world’s oceans every year.2

While many people are aware of the risks of plastic-based materials, microfibers shed from the product during use can harm human health through the accumulation and ingestion of microplastics in the food chain.

Some vegan leather products contain more plastic than others, so designers must be cautious. The story of leather is a complex one. Vegan leather, if made using plastics that take years to biodegrade, could be worse for the environment than traditional leather.

Micro-plastic contamination is a grave concern due to the substantial amount of water, chemicals, and energy required to process and develop the material, tragically impacting the planet. Just because it is labelled vegan, people may assume it must be better, but this could be due to their lack of interest in learning more about the products they buy.

What are the types of vegan leather?

Here is a list of some appealing and convincing eco-friendly vegan leather substitutes, all crafted from recycled materials and not derived from animals:

Pinatex Leather: Pinatex pineapple leather is 100 per cent vegan, fully environmentally friendly, and ethical. It enables pineapple farmers to monetise a previously unusable part of their produce. Made from discarded parts of pineapple trees, Pinatex is a robust plant-based leather that feels similar to animal leather and is waterproof and protective.

Vegan Cork Leather: This fabric, made from recycled cork, is unique and does not exactly mimic leather or some other materials. Although a non-traditional option, it is included here due to the incredible brands it has inspired.

Mushroom Leather: More and more, people are opting for portobello burgers over hamburgers and substituting animal leather with environmentally friendly mushroom leather. This recycled plant-based leather can be grown into any required shape or size and is entirely biodegradable. Tests show that this eco-friendly leather alternative is as durable and attractive as traditional leather but with enhanced strength. Its earthy tone makes it an elegant choice for boho-chic shoes or beautiful handbags.

Leaf Leather: Created from ethically harvested teak leaves that are woven with fabric and sealed, leaf leather preserves the inherent beauty of nature. This unique and entirely eco-friendly leather alternative is suitable for those still searching for their preferred vegan leather. Using a traditional Asian method for waterproofing furniture and roofs, it can be crafted into anything from large tote bags to handmade leaf leather wallets.

Grain-based Leather: This Italian grain-based vegan leather that uses Biopolyoil provides a classic leather look without any ethical concerns. Using less water during production, this plant-based leather outperforms animal skin and serves as an excellent substitute for other vegan leather items.

Recycled Bottles: Astonishingly, recycled plastic bottles are used to produce an eco-friendly, sustainable type of vegan leather that is both stylish and good for the environment. By breaking down water-resistant and lightweight polyester fibre into plastic flakes, 100 per cent recycled plastic leather can be created.

Cactus Leather: The newest eco-friendly leather alternative is made from the leaves of the nopal cactus, providing convincing and entirely sustainable faux leather. This adaptable material has garnered attention for its softness, suitable for furniture, and robustness, perfect for crafting reliable handbags.

These innovative alternatives highlight the growing range and creativity in the field of vegan leather, accommodating various preferences and ecological concerns.

Can vegan leather rival the quality of the real thing?

Vegan leather has made significant strides over the past few decades, to the point where well-crafted vegan leather products can sometimes be mistaken for genuine leather, despite the raw materials being entirely different from those used in real leather products.

One drawback of vegan leather is that it tends to be less durable than genuine leather. Some estimates suggest that if made of plastic, it will last on average between two to five years. However, assessments for specific products like handbags, which endure less wear and tear, indicate they may last longer. It is important to remember that vegan leather containing plastic is not biodegradable, and as it breaks down, it will release tiny pieces of plastic.

Several brands are exploring alternatives to traditional animal leather. Luxury fashion houses such as John Galliano, Christian Dior, Prada, and Louis Vuitton have all purchased fish skin from Atlantic Leather for collections, despite not being vegan. In doing so, they aim to alleviate some of the demand for real leathers. Brands like Hugo Boss and H&M have embraced pineapple leather for various shoe styles.

According to Peta alternative animal substitutes are being sourced from apples, mushrooms, corn, and mangoes, which have the advantage of not involving the hazardous chemicals typically used in leather tanning.3

Ending Note

Fashion-forward companies are continually inventing, using, and investing in innovative eco-friendly vegan leather alternatives. Being environmentally conscious has never been more straightforward or enjoyable.

However, the stark reality is that ‘sustainability’ has become a marketing buzzword, akin to the term ‘organic’. To avoid falling victim to greenwashing, consumers need to scrutinise the fine print and educate themselves about the complexities involved. As the saying goes, the devil is in the details.

Brands need to conduct thorough research into alternative materials and remain aware of the adverse impacts of plastic-based products. Choosing between real leather and vegan leather is not a simple decision, whether for brands or consumers. The path towards responsible consumption requires vigilance, knowledge, and a commitment to aligning choices with values.