Although it nearly vanished in 1972, hemp has long been a traditional crop in Spain. The European country is experiencing a strong comeback of industrial hemp farming, with growth continuing at a rapid pace. Long before laws prohibiting its cultivation existed, this plant was both farmed and grew wild in various regions around the world.

In fact, hemp was the first plant cultivated by humans for textile production. It was grown in Asia as early as the Neolithic era, and by 600 BC, in China, it was used to produce garments for royalty. Over the years, hemp was exported from Asia to Europe and other parts of the world, where it was then cultivated.

Spain has a lengthy history of industrial hemp cultivation, dating back several centuries. Its cultivation began during the reign of Carlos III in the 18th century, specifically on the plains of Segura and Granada. Apart from France, Spain was the only Western European country where hemp cultivation was not significantly practised for a large part of the 20th century. It was only produced on 85 hectares in the northeast of the peninsula and nearly disappeared in 1972. However, other parts of Spain started growing hemp in 1997, and by 1998, 16,507 hectares had been planted1.

The resurgence of hemp has generated considerable excitement. With its wide range of applications, this crop meets many of the sustainability requirements that textile companies seek in a fibre, including low input, strong environmental qualities, and durability.

The recent legalisation of hemp in many countries has led to an increase in production. This aligns with the growing use of hemp fibres in the global textile industry. At the same time, agencies, colleges, companies, and organisations are all rapidly increasing their research into the best cultivars and farming techniques for hemp production.

What is Hemp Fabric?

Hemp fabric is a type of textile made from the fibres of the Cannabis sativa plant. This plant is renowned for producing exceptionally strong and durable textile fibres, but the psychoactive properties associated with Cannabis sativa have historically complicated the cultivation of this beneficial crop.

For thousands of years, Cannabis sativa has been cultivated for two distinct purposes. Some strains have been selectively bred over generations to produce high levels of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and other psychotropic compounds known as cannabinoids. In contrast, other strains have been cultivated to minimise the levels of psychoactive cannabinoids while enhancing the plant’s ability to produce stronger and superior fibres.

This has led to the emergence of two distinct strains of Cannabis sativa. Contrary to the misconception that psychoactive marijuana comes from female Cannabis sativa plants and hemp from male plants, most hemp harvests worldwide are from female plants. However, female Cannabis sativa plants grown for textile purposes typically contain very little THC and do not develop the sticky buds—a key characteristic of their psychoactive counterparts.

The stalk of the hemp plant comprises two layers: a woody inner core and an outer layer of rope-like bast fibres. While the inner woody layer of the Cannabis sativa stalk is often used for fuel, building materials, and animal bedding, only the outer layer is utilised in textile applications.

Despite hemp’s potential, the global economy has not fully capitalised on its benefits, largely because most international laws fail to differentiate between marijuana, which is high in THC, and hemp, which contains negligible amounts of this psychoactive compound. This lack of distinction has led to a stigma around hemp, mistakenly associating it with illicit drugs. However, as an increasing number of countries recognise industrial hemp as a legitimate crop, the world is on the cusp of a hemp fabric renaissance, marking a significant shift in perception and use of this ancient textile.

How is Hemp Fabric Made?

The process of making hemp fabric primarily involves harvesting the Cannabis sativa plants with specialised machinery. After harvest, these plants are left in the field to rett for four to six weeks. Retting is a natural process that allows the plants to decompose slightly, facilitating the removal of pectin through exposure to weather conditions.

Following retting, the fibrous outer layer of the plant is separated from its woody core. This is typically achieved using a hammermill or breakers, which efficiently detach the bast fibres from the inner woody material. Once separated, these bast fibres are carded into strands and cleaned to remove any contaminants. At this stage, manufacturers have several options depending on the intended end use of the hemp. They can employ a steam explosion technique to transform raw hemp into a weavable fibre, utilise matting processes to create fleeces and mats, or engage in pulping to produce paper products. The steam explosion process particularly prepares the hemp for spinning into yarn, which is then woven into fabric.

From this point, the creation of hemp fabric follows similar procedures to those used with other fabrics. The resulting material is spun into yarn, which is then woven into durable fabrics suitable for a wide array of consumer products.

How is Hemp Fabric Used?

Hemp fabric’s primary use is in the production of wearables. Historically, this fabric was often seen as a novelty, appealing mainly to those passionate about cannabis culture. However, hemp fabric has transcended its association with cannabis to be valued for its health benefits and environmental sustainability. It is now chosen for a variety of garments due to its durability and comfort.

Hemp is frequently used in the manufacture of dresses, skirts, T-shirts, jackets, hoodies, jeans, and children’s clothing, among others. Its resistance to abrasion makes it particularly popular for T-shirts. Hemp T-shirts maintain their shape and integrity for many years, outlasting cotton T-shirts that often start to shrink, warp, or fall apart after just a few washes.

Beyond clothing, hemp fabric is utilised in a wide range of home textiles. Although still favoured by cannabis enthusiasts for items like curtains and decorative fabrics, its use for dish towels, furniture upholstery, and tablecloths is growing in popularity. The durability and high absorbency of hemp make it an excellent choice for towels. While hemp may not be as soft as high-thread-count cotton, making it less ideal for direct skin contact like bed linens, its robustness renders it an excellent material for duvets and blankets.

Mixing hemp with other fabrics is a common practice to combine the best properties of each. While purists may prefer products made solely from hemp, blends with cotton are common, offering a balance of softness and strength. Hemp is also frequently combined with silk, enhancing the fabric’s luxurious feel. Through blending, hemp can be made softer and more resilient, broadening its appeal and application in various textile products.

How Does Hemp Fabric Impact the Environment?

The environmental sustainability of hemp fabric is evidenced by its thousands of years of production by humans without causing significant ecological harm. This demonstrates that the production of hemp fabric is inherently eco-friendly. However, as the production of hemp fabric increases, it is unclear whether all manufacturers adhere to the sustainable cultivation and manufacturing practices necessary to keep hemp fabric production environmentally sound.

A pivotal 1998 study often cited regarding the environmental sustainability of hemp fabric highlights that its production requires less land compared to cotton and introduces fewer harmful substances into the soil and surrounding environment.

Moreover, hemp is considered a carbon-negative raw material, absorbing more carbon than it emits during its growth cycle. The cultivation of hemp requires very few pesticides and no herbicides, contributing to its eco-friendly profile. However, hemp cultivation may require more nitrogen than cotton.

Hemp’s deep-reaching roots, which can extend up to three metres below the surface, offer numerous environmental benefits. This extensive root system means the plant typically does not require irrigation, as it can access water independently. The density of the root system effectively suppresses weeds, eliminating the need for pesticides or fungicides. Additionally, these roots aerate the soil and enrich it with nitrogen fixed by the plant, disrupting disease cycles in the soil and ensuring higher yields in subsequent agricultural rotations. For these reasons, hemp is considered to have an excellent ‘head of rotation’, further enhancing its reputation as an environmentally sustainable crop.

The Origins of Textile Hemp in Spain’s History

Hemp textiles have played a pivotal role in Spain’s agricultural and industrial history, with its long, durable fibres dominating various industries from the 5th to the 19th centuries BC. The navy, in particular, heavily relied on hemp fibre due to its resistance to moisture, using it for ropes, sails, bags, and other materials.

The 18th century marked a significant expansion in the use of textile hemp as merchants began to trade it for clothing and bedding, in addition to its naval applications. Several factors contributed to the increased demand for textile hemp products, with Spain’s demographic growth during this period being a primary driver. In fact, hemp production was actively promoted by national authorities responsible for this sector.

However, the government’s engagement with textile hemp extended beyond merely producing fabrics for retail. The policy developed and implemented by politician and economist Campomanes caught the administration’s attention. His policy aimed to support and promote a popular and widespread industry as a complement to agriculture, enabling farmers to supply their own raw materials and circumvent middlemen who would otherwise control the sale of final products. Additionally, this legislation played a significant role in establishing textile hemp as an important economic sector in Spain and other European countries.

By the 19th century, jute production began to replace hemp production, but the onset of global prohibition led to a lasting crisis in the hemp industry.

Why Textile Hemp is on Rise in Spain?

Spain’s favourable climate allows for multiple harvests each year. Despite the winter season, the region still benefits from an impressive average of 2,500 sunshine hours annually2. However, the country experiences frequent and severe frosts, which pose a significant threat to many crops. Rainfall distribution is also highly erratic, particularly in areas with a Mediterranean climate, where the majority of the annual rainfall occurs within a brief period.

The country stands to benefit greatly from the domestic production of hemp for the textile industry, a prospect that many local manufacturing companies are keen to demonstrate to the national government. Spain’s location in Southwestern Europe, the optimal number of daylight hours, and an adequate irrigation system make it well-suited for hemp cultivation. From an environmental standpoint, the cultivation of industrial hemp, particularly for textile purposes, presents significant benefits, positioning Spain to capitalise on this sustainable and versatile crop.

Benefits of Growing Hemp

Hemp possesses the unique ability to absorb and sequester heavy metals, naturally revitalising the soil and facilitating the process of oxygenation. Moreover, hemp stands out as one of the least environmentally polluting modern agricultural crops due to its minimal need for pesticides and herbicides, unlike cotton, which requires substantial amounts of water. This type of cultivation emerges as a particularly beneficial response to climate change, especially for Spain, as it can contribute to combating greenhouse gas emissions.

The benefits of growing textile hemp, however, extend beyond environmental impacts to include positive social and economic effects. Hemp fibre can be transformed into a diverse array of products such as bags, shoes, ropes, T-shirts, and trousers. This versatility supports agricultural diversification, offering a pathway to revitalising the national economy, which has faced challenges over the years.

Importantly, hemp farming plays a crucial role in rejuvenating the regional labour market. It creates new job opportunities not only in the agricultural sector but also in related industries, including the production, processing, and trade of newly created textile products. This holistic approach to hemp cultivation highlights its potential as a multi-faceted solution to economic, environmental, and social challenges.

Ending Note

The legalisation of industrial hemp farming in numerous countries stands as a key driver behind the growth of the hemp fibre market. The resurgence of textile hemp in Spain and beyond signifies a pivotal shift towards more sustainable and versatile materials. Thanks to its environmentally friendly cultivation methods and wide-ranging applications across different sectors, hemp is gaining recognition as a viable alternative to conventional textiles. Spain’s adoption of hemp cultivation mirrors an expanding global movement towards leveraging its potential for stimulating economic development and promoting environmental sustainability. As more countries acknowledge hemp’s advantages, from its low water and pesticide needs to its renewability, the future of textile hemp looks promising. By continuing to invest in research, infrastructure, and public education, a flourishing hemp industry can be nurtured, which can contribute to a more sustainable world for future generations.