OEKO-TEX® Service GmbH is a global leader in testing, auditing, and certification of textiles and leather, dedicated to ensuring product safety, sustainable production, and responsible use of resources across the industry. Founded in 1992, it provides a comprehensive suite of trusted standards and certifications to promote transparency and sustainability in the textile and leather sectors. Head of Quality Management Elisa Rimmele discusses quality standards, testing methods, sustainable production and more.

Can you describe OEKO-TEX®’s approach to maintaining high-quality standards across different labels and certifications worldwide?

We are committed to the integrity and reliability of our certifications across diverse geographical contexts.

We rigorously validate our processes at the laboratory and methodological levels through round-robin tests (interlaboratory comparisons) and institute audits. On the product level, we go beyond relying on customer-supplied samples with control testing. We collect and re-test certified materials from other sources. This verifies that our evaluations are based on genuine, real-world samples.

The engagement with our clients during on-site visits and audits not only builds trust, but also provides invaluable insight into customer needs and concerns. We also conduct unannounced spot visits, reinforcing adherence to the standards.

Our auditors undergo rigorous training and continuous evaluation administered by OEKO-TEX®. This ensures their proficiency and knowledge to uphold the highest standards in auditing.

Continuous improvement requires collaboration and knowledge-sharing. Regular exchanges and global cooperation are integral components of our strategy, enabling us to stay abreast of emerging trends and best practices in the industry.

How does OEKO-TEX® ensure the consistency and reliability of its testing methods across its global network of independent institutes?

Annual round-robin tests are paramount in upholding our integrity and dependability. These interlaboratory comparisons monitor the performance of our laboratories and methods. Should any discrepancies arise, corrective measures are swiftly implemented to maintain the highest standards.

All our laboratories are accredited to ISO 17025 by independent accreditation bodies, underscoring our commitment to internationally recognised quality standards. In a proactive approach, our working group that develops test methods is also involved in ensuring consistency across institutes.

With the introduction of OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON, what measures are in place to prevent contamination and ensure the integrity of organic cotton textiles?

Introducing ORGANIC COTTON certification was a response to the lack of transparency in the organic cotton market. Through a scientific and hands-on approach, we bring thorough oversight and verification throughout the supply chain.

We rigorously test for GMOs, pesticides and other harmful substances. Our GMO method quantifies genetically modified organisms to confirm authentic, organic content.

Beyond testing during the certification process, our auditors conduct annual on-site visits where they collect additional samples.

To trace the flow of goods and enhance traceability, we issue transaction certificates for each material transfer. Our internal database of these certificates facilitates comprehensive supply chain transparency efforts. Mass balancing ensures the accuracy and reliability of our certification processes.

Sustainability is a core value for OEKO-TEX®. How do your quality management processes contribute to sustainable practices within the textile and leather industry?

For over three decades, we have evolved our portfolio and adapted to the shifting market, while maintaining our commitment to quality. After initially launching with STANDARD 100, the industry standard for restricted substances, we are driving sustainable transformation through initiatives that cover the entire supply chain.

For example, STeP sets the standard for sustainable textile and leather production. Comprising six comprehensive modules, it assesses facilities based on performance metrics and offers actionable steps for improvement – all with rigorous, built-in quality controls.

Could you explain the role of innovation and research and development in enhancing OEKO-TEX®’s testing processes and standards?

Drawing upon three decades of experience, we prioritise staying abreast of current trends and developments. Our network of institutes, with a presence in over 70 countries, is a vital conduit for global insights. Our close collaboration provides diverse perspectives and fosters growth.

We are committed to industry dialogue and collaboration, so we actively engage with external stakeholders, such as the UNECE and the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles. Through regular stakeholder consultations, we provide a platform for all interested parties to contribute feedback, which ensures our initiatives are inclusive and responsive to diverse needs. Additionally, our internal advisor board provides guidance for informed decision-making and strategic direction.

How does OEKO-TEX®’s quality management team address the challenges of evolving legal requirements and environmental standards in the textile industry?

When emerging topics come to our attention, we swiftly collaborate with our working groups and, when needed, external experts to ensure comprehensive compliance. We implement new parameters ahead of regulatory changes and carefully monitor their effects. This proactive approach has proven highly effective, as evidenced by our annual updates, which ensure alignment with the multifaceted legal landscape that our industry navigates.

The OEKO-TEX® RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS certification focuses on supply chain due diligence. What quality management strategies are implemented to assess and improve supply chain practices?

RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS is the latest addition to our portfolio. We are training and evaluating auditors to the highest standards, which includes peer review by OEKO-TEX® experts.

The assessment required for certification is adapted regularly. Recertification requires demonstrated improvement in at least one due diligence element.

With a portfolio of certifications, how does OEKO-TEX® tailor its quality management approach to meet the specific needs of different segments within the textile and leather industries?

No matter what part of the industry, our attention to high quality remains the same. With our range of certifications, we cater to nearly every facet of the textile and leather industry. Each certification programme has a quality management approach tailored to the standard requirements.

For STeP and RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS, our emphasis lies in the thorough training of auditors and  meticulous review of reports, ensuring robust evaluation. For STANDARD 100, our focus shifts towards rigorous laboratory checks to uphold quality standards. Regardless of the certification, our comprehensive approach encompasses the diligent work of our technical and advisory teams, supplemented by spot visits and institute audits.

OEKO-TEX® values transparency. How do you communicate the details and results of your quality management processes to stakeholders and the public?

We communicate the results of our quality management procedures through our annual report. We also maintain communication channels with internal stakeholders to share monitoring results and ensure transparency and accountability throughout our operations.

What steps does OEKO-TEX® take to ensure that its laboratory tests are aligned with the latest scientific research and technological advancements?

We regularly seek insight from internal and external experts who constantly monitor the industry. We also extend public invitations for feedback through stakeholder reviews. This inclusive approach informs our annual standards updates, ensuring alignment with evolving industry needs and best practices.

The OEKO-TEX® STeP certification promotes sustainable production. How does the quality management team verify and enforce the adherence to sustainability standards in production facilities?

We employ a multi-layered operations strategy. Firstly, we meticulously train and certify all auditors for a harmonised approach. Regular re-training sessions and quarterly training calls are required. The diverse expertise and perspectives within our auditor pool and working groups is an asset that enriches our processes.

To maintain quality standards, all reports undergo peer review by our expert panel. Customer audit frequency is increased if necessary. Our quality management team also conducts unannounced spot visits at certified facilities.

Our robust complaint mechanism encourages direct feedback from certified facilities for continuous improvement and accountability.

In what ways does OEKO-TEX® collaborate with manufacturers to support the development of high-quality, sustainable textile and leather products?

Our certification system ensures consistent production of safe and sustainable products. While STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD 100, ORGANIC COTTON and ECO PASSORT focus on products, STeP and RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS drive sustainable production practices. These facility certifications set mandatory requirements for sustainable production, with audits providing an external, expert perspective.

Certified facilities demonstrate their commitment to responsible and safe production practices by subjecting themselves to third-party scrutiny. This enhances transparency and empowers brands to make informed choices.

In line with our commitment to sustainability and innovation, we provide additional tools for improvement within the STeP certification, including the OEKO-TEX® Impact Calculator and BHive chemical management.

Given the global scope of OEKO-TEX®, how do you manage and harmonise quality standards among the different independent testing institutes in Europe and Japan?

All our institutes are required to engage in round-robin tests and product control measures. On a regular base, the OEKO-TEX® quality management team conducts thorough audits of each institute, meticulously assessing the implementation of processes.

The close collaboration among our institutes to advance the standards guarantees global inclusivity in the decision-making process ensuring that perspectives from all corners of the world are considered.

How does OEKO-TEX® address the challenge of maintaining quality and safety standards in the face of fast-changing fashion trends and production techniques?

Our commitment to updating our standards and refining our processes is steadfast. With over 30 years of collective expertise at our disposal, our extensive knowledge base stands ready to provide clarity whenever needed. Multiple layers of review bolster our decision-making, ensuring robustness and integrity in our operations.

Looking towards the future, what new initiatives or technologies is OEKO-TEX® exploring to further enhance the quality and sustainability of textile and leather products?

We see tremendous potential in obtaining transparency through digitalisation. We firmly believe that enhanced data accessibility and exchange will elevate certification standards and optimise production processes overall.