‘Cascale’ captures our vision of driving collective action at scale
Cascale brings together 300 leading apparel, footwear, and textile brands, retailers, manufacturers, sourcing agents, service providers, trade associations, NGOs, and academic institutions – all working towards a shared vision of an industry that gives back more than it takes to the planet and its people. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Executive Vice President Andrew Martin discusses standardising sustainability metrics, creating a balanced and equitable industry, industry-wide approach and more.
In your view, what are the main challenges that the textile industry faces in achieving climate goals?
The textile industry stands at a crossroads, balancing immense potential for positive change with equally daunting challenges. From my perspective, the biggest hurdle is the fragmented nature of the supply chain. It has so many stakeholders—manufacturers, brands, and suppliers—each having different climate targets and accountability frameworks. This disparity can lead to inefficiencies and frustration, especially for manufacturers who often face continuous audits. I have seen some audited nearly 200 days a year, leaving them overwhelmed and with little time or resources to focus on actual improvements. At Cascale, we are advocating for more streamlined, collaborative standards so manufacturers can focus less on meeting varying criteria and more on meaningful progress. It is a personal passion of mine to see this industry come together and commit to common standards that are both ambitious and achievable.
That is why the work at Cascale excites me. One example of our commitment to addressing these challenges is our Decarbonisation Program, which delivers essential support, tools, and guidance to make science-based targets accessible and achievable for our members. For us, it is crucial that members do not just commit to decarbonisation but have the resources to succeed.
How can multi-stakeholder initiatives effectively drive industry-wide transformation?
Transformation happens when stakeholders genuinely listen to each other’s needs and constraints. Multi-stakeholder initiatives are powerful, but they require balance and inclusivity. Our role at Cascale is to be the bridge—bringing brands, suppliers, and communities into meaningful dialogue. I have seen firsthand how real change occurs when these voices are equally valued, leading to solutions that resonate across the supply chain. When stakeholders feel ownership of the outcome, industry-wide transformation becomes more than an ideal; it becomes a shared responsibility.
One initiative that embodies this collaborative approach is our Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP). MCAP unites both members and non-members to accelerate the adoption of science-aligned targets for Scope 1 and 2 emissions. By bringing diverse players together under a common framework, we are making it easier for companies of all sizes to set and achieve meaningful climate goals. Programmes like MCAP show that when we pool our resources and insights, we can make genuine progress across the industry.
What role do you believe transparency plays in building sustainable practices across the supply chain?
Transparency is the backbone of trust in sustainable practices and, ultimately, a pre-requisite for accountability. For example, in a globalised fashion sector, manufacturers often bear the weight of proving their sustainability credentials to multiple brands across continents. The first step for any brand serious about responsible practices is to provide visibility into its supply chain so that manufacturers are not left shouldering this burden alone. Without such transparency, it is nearly impossible to build mutual trust or independently verify sustainability claims.
At Cascale, we see transparency not only as an outcome but as an ongoing process that strengthens partnerships. Our Higg Index tools, designed with manufacturers in mind, empower them to openly track and share their sustainability progress with customers. We have a dedicated team working on making these tools fit for purpose, collaborating with our policy and public affairs group to refine guidance, develop resources, and ensure the tools help manufacturers meet evolving standards. This way, manufacturers are not just compliant—they become industry leaders, setting an example of accountability and inspiring others to follow suit. For me, it is inspiring to see manufacturers take the lead in building a more transparent, responsible industry.
How can global consumer goods companies collaborate more effectively to promote fair working conditions?
Promoting fair working conditions requires more than isolated efforts; it demands a unified, industry-wide commitment. For global consumer goods companies, this means moving beyond competitive silos and embracing shared accountability for labour practices across supply chains. One way to foster this collaboration is through shared standards and platforms that make data on working conditions transparent and actionable for all stakeholders. At Cascale, we fully believe in and align with the work of our collaborators, such as the Social & Labor Convergence Program and its Convergence Assessment Framework (CAF), which integrates with our own Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (FSLM). This alignment allows companies to rely on a consistent assessment that reduces audit fatigue for manufacturers and helps drive measurable, collective improvements in working conditions. I have seen firsthand how these kinds of partnerships can empower companies to pool resources for worker training or safety programmes, rather than duplicating efforts. For me, it is inspiring to witness this level of industry cooperation—it is what will lead to lasting improvements and fairer conditions for workers worldwide.
What future trends do you foresee in sustainability and compliance for the apparel industry?
In the coming years, several key trends will redefine sustainability and compliance in the industry. One of the most pressing developments is the wave of new legislation, like the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) and Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CS3D) regulations in the EU. These policies are setting stricter standards for transparency, accountability, and human rights across supply chains, and businesses will need to be ready to meet these regulatory demands. At Cascale, our ambition is to support and encourage members to go beyond simple compliance. We continuously refine our Higg Index tools to align with and complement these legislative efforts, helping brands and manufacturers not only to comply but to lead.
Alongside regulatory shifts, science-based targets and data-driven accountability are becoming standard expectations. Our Decarbonization Program, as mentioned earlier, empowers members to set and pursue ambitious targets that align with the Paris Agreement, ensuring that climate action is grounded in measurable, science-backed commitments. The industry’s future lies in circular systems, just and fair practices, and holistic sustainability, where compliance is merely the baseline. Leadership and innovation will be essential for those that want to stay competitive and relevant.
Finally, transparency and traceability are also gaining ground as critical components of sustainability. Consumers and stakeholders increasingly demand insight into the origins and impacts of products. Our tools help members provide transparent, standardised data on their environmental and social impacts, empowering brands and manufacturers to demonstrate genuine commitment to these values.
These trends underscore that sustainable transformation is no longer optional—it is a core expectation for responsible business. I am excited to see Cascale’s members set the standard by not only meeting but exceeding these requirements, leading the charge towards a more resilient, equitable industry.
Can you share the strategic vision behind rebranding SAC to Cascale, and what this change symbolises for the organisation?
This work began in earnest in 2021 as we took a step back to reflect on who we are and where we are headed as an organisation. We realised that ‘Sustainable Apparel Coalition’ (SAC) no longer fully encompassed our ambitions or the diversity of our stakeholders. The name ‘Cascale’ captures our vision of driving collective action at scale—bringing together brands, manufacturers, affiliates and other partners to create a more sustainable and equitable industry. We wanted a name that reflects both our roots in sustainability and our commitment to fostering impactful, industry-wide change.
How will Cascale’s new membership engagement model enhance supplier and manufacturer input in decision-making?
Cascale has been in a listening and learning stage since inception, always looking to improve our membership benefits and capabilities, and our new membership engagement model reflects this work. It will enable more dedicated support, by shifting the organisation of our team from regional to member type. This allows us to provide focused support and enhance the way we manage relationships with our members, especially manufacturers.
In what ways has Cascale’s shift from regional to member-type engagement impacted its support to manufacturers and brand members?
There are a few ways in which this model offers up enhanced engagement for our manufacturer and brand members:
- The member engagement team will be able to streamline engagement within each new member segmentation.
- The newly added community team will support additional feedback channels and ensure all members have timely access to information and achievements.
- A heightened focus on member governance will ensure all policies, processes, and procedures deliver transparency and accountability while driving equitable partnership and representation.
Restructuring our team to support specific member types allows for the development of deeper, more specialised knowledge, which will more effectively support members through their membership journey. The new model will foster a more collaborative and focused engagement, as seen in our recent work with our Higg MSI Cotton Methodology.
Could you elaborate on the role of Cascale’s Higg Index tools in driving industry-wide sustainability?
The Higg Index is a unique asset in driving sustainability across the apparel, footwear, textile, and consumer goods industries. No other sector has a tool that provides the level of comprehensive insight that the Higg Index offers. With around 40,000 users, it is a trusted source for data that spans all pillars of environmental, social, and corporate governance (ESG). This depth of data allows companies to benchmark their performance and identify specific areas for improvement, creating a clear pathway to more sustainable practices.
At Cascale, we see the Higg Index, available exclusively on the Worldly platform, as a critical enabler of industry-wide transformation. By standardising sustainability metrics, it helps brands and manufacturers speak a common language, making it easier to collaborate, set aligned goals, and track progress transparently. Our ambition is for the Higg Index to continue evolving, incorporating the latest scientific insights and regulatory standards to meet the industry’s changing needs. Ultimately, it empowers companies to not only understand their impact but to drive meaningful, measurable change.
How does Cascale plan to balance the influence between multinational brands and smaller suppliers under the new model?
Our goal at Cascale is to create a balanced and equitable industry. This means ensuring that smaller suppliers have as much of a voice as multinational brands. The new membership engagement model, with its focus on specific member types rather than regions, enables more dedicated support for different segments, including smaller suppliers. By structuring our teams in this way, we are able to understand and respond more effectively to the unique challenges and strengths of each group, promoting balanced influence across the membership.
What specific contributions or feedback from manufacturers influenced the recent structural changes at Cascale?
Cascale’s evolved structure was created largely in response to feedback from suppliers, who called for more practical support and meaningful engagement. This aligns closely with recommendations from researcher Ilishio Lovejoy, whose two-year study on multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) was presented at Cascale’s recent Annual Meeting in Munich. During the event, she joined a panel with board members representing each of our organisation’s sectors, discussing the theory of fair process—a key part of this evolution. Additionally, our membership engagement teams have been instrumental in advocating for these changes. They have worked diligently to seek and elevate feedback from members, especially manufacturers, ensuring that their voices are reflected in our decision-making processes.
Can you tell us more about Cascale’s partnership with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association and its goals?
Cascale’s partnership with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) is focused on advancing sustainability and promoting environmentally and socially responsible practices within the apparel sector.
This collaboration represents a key step in aligning the industry and supporting its transition towards more carbon-neutral, responsible operations. Through this partnership, Cascale and BGMEA will work together to harmonise data-sharing practices and promote the Higg Index to reduce the need for multiple social and environmental assessments.
This approach aims to standardise protocols for voluntary social and technical audits, enhancing transparency while easing the assessment burden on manufacturers. Additionally, the two organisations will explore aligning impact programmes to drive industry-wide decarbonisation in line with internationally recognised targets and to collaborate on advocacy efforts to amplify manufacturers’ voices and perspectives in legislative initiatives, measures, and policy.
How does Cascale’s commitment to DEI shape its organisational culture and influence its external initiatives?
Our Annual Reports, the latest of which was published in June 2023, highlight our DEI (Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion) commitments, especially as they relate to serving a global, diverse team—and membership—of all backgrounds. We are proud of our unique organisational culture, which prioritises mental health, collaboration, remote work-life balance, and, of course, community. This is reflected in our in-person and online events, such as the Annual Meeting and our Coffee & Connect series, which bring people together in meaningful ways.
With the MCAP, how does Cascale engage both members and non-members in climate action?
The Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP) is a pivotal initiative uniting manufacturers worldwide to combat climate change across the consumer goods industry. Through MCAP, we drive sustainable change with science-aligned targets (SATs), guiding manufacturers to set and pursue measurable climate goals. As part of our ‘Evolution for Impact’ strategy, Cascale’s ambitions for decarbonisation extend across the entire value chain—from apparel, footwear, and textiles to home furnishings, outdoor goods, and more. This programme allows both members and non-members to participate, underscoring our belief that industry-wide impact requires an inclusive approach.
What are some key learnings from the recent Higg MSI and Higg FEM updates that Cascale will carry forward?
At Cascale, we are dedicated to continuously evolving and enhancing our Higg Index tools to meet the industry’s needs and priorities. Most recently, we initiated a comprehensive member consultation process to incorporate manufacturer and brand feedback into our Higg FEM 2024 update. This process ensures that the tool continues to deliver credible, impactful data that addresses users’ needs.
Similarly, with thirteen cotton organisations and stakeholders working together to develop a new cotton methodology, the recent Higg MSI v3.9 update has been a pivotal example of successful industry-wide collaboration. By harmonising methodologies and aligning industry practices, we have ensured that data on cotton’s environmental impact is now more accurate and transparent.
These consultation outcomes are critical to shaping the evolution of our tools, and we will continue to rely on this process as we develop future updates, ensuring the Higg Index remains both credible and impactful.
