There is no standardised definition of sustainability globally
For over three decades, Ecocert has been at the forefront of promoting and implementing sustainable practices across various industries. Initially dedicated to organic farming, the organisation has expanded its scope to include sectors such as textiles, fair trade, cosmetics, sustainable materials, helping stakeholders adopt environmentally responsible methods through a comprehensive array of certification, consulting, and training services.
With a firm belief in the pivotal role the textile and clothing industry plays in fostering a circular economy, Ecocert works closely with key players to encourage better environmental and societal practices. The aim is to contribute to a future where ethical fashion is the norm, with an emphasis on recycling and sustainable production processes.
Ecocert’s mission centres on creating processes that are environmentally respectful and that manage energy and natural resources—such as water, air, and soil fertility—in a responsible manner. These efforts extend beyond environmental concerns, as Ecocert also strives to ensure socially responsible production chains and improved product quality and safety. With these principles in mind, the organisation works tirelessly to address some of the most pressing economic, social, and environmental challenges of our time.
As the world grapples with issues such as biodiversity loss, climate change, and resource distribution, Ecocert remains committed to evolving its models to meet the demands of today’s changing landscape.
Ecocert’s reach is truly global, with a presence in over 130 countries, offering localised expertise through its network of specialised teams.
Fibre2Fashion managed to catch up with Anil Jadhav, Regional Director of Ecocert for South Asia & Middle East during the 3rd Sustainable Textile Summit 2024 organised by the PHD Chamber of Commerce and Industry in New Delhi, for an exhaustive discussion on the key issue of sustainability and its evolving dynamics with the changing times.
Although sustainability has become a buzzword, there seems to be some confusion among stakeholders regarding its true essence and finer details. What is your perspective on this, and how do you believe we can better clarify the concept for a more unified understanding?
Globally, there is no standardised definition of sustainability. While organic practices come closest, only organic food is regulated worldwide, with countries like the US, India, Japan, Brazil, and those in the European Union having their own standards. These organic standards have been developed over time through practices, agreements, and equivalences.
This lack of definition can be both advantageous and challenging. On the one hand, the absence of a rigid framework allows flexibility, enabling organisations or countries to create their own models of sustainability. These models can focus on various aspects such as water conservation, environmental protection, social responsibility, or even financial sustainability. Because sustainability is such a broad concept, it offers room for innovation and customisation.
The confusion surrounding sustainability often stems from the fact that it encompasses much more than organic practices. While organic standards typically focus on eliminating harmful chemicals, sustainability involves a broader range of considerations, such as production processes, supply chains, and social impact. Something that is organic may not necessarily be sustainable, and vice versa.
In today’s world, sustainability is often defined by brands and consuming countries, which may not always fully understand the ethics and practices of the producing nations. As one of the top five exporters globally, India has a unique opportunity to define its own sustainability standards. These standards could align with the country’s rich traditions, such as the Ayurveda, yoga, and ancient medicines.
With the current lack of global clarity on sustainability, now is the perfect time for India to develop and market its own approach. If India establishes its standards first, it can lead the conversation rather than follow. In fact, countries like India are in a strong position to shape global sustainability practices. Their actions will influence what consumers buy, as well as the stories behind the products.
For instance, the government of Sikkim in India has made the entire state organic, a move celebrated by Prime Minister Narendra Modi. India can build on examples like this to promote the country’s long-standing sustainable practices to the world. India, with its thousands of years of sustainable traditions, does not need to learn from others—it needs to teach the world about sustainability.
Although developing our own standards is essential, how do you think these would be received globally, particularly in the consumer markets that tend to drive the demand?
If you look at any major global brand—whether it is Toyota, Apple, or any other prominent name—they first established their success in their country of origin before expanding internationally. The foundation of their growth was domestic recognition and trust. You cannot create a product or standard aimed at foreign markets without first proving its value at home. Similarly, when it comes to developing sustainability standards, India must first convince its own people and brands of their importance and effectiveness. Once these standards are embraced domestically and built into a strong, recognisable brand, only then can we successfully promote them on a global stage.
A fitting example is yoga and Ayurveda. These practices have deep roots in Indian culture, and their benefits were long known and appreciated within the country. Now, India is sharing these ancient traditions with the world, highlighting their value on a global scale. The same approach can be applied to sustainability—first, build credibility and success within the country, and then share that story internationally. This local-to-global strategy ensures that the brand or concept has strong, authentic foundations before expanding outward.
With India’s dual consumer base—domestic and export markets—how do manufacturers navigate the varying sustainability requirements between the two? What strategies or regulations can ensure alignment without compromising on either side?
For any country to thrive economically, it must cultivate a strong domestic consumer base alongside its production capabilities. Take China as an example, 20 years ago, it was primarily known as the world’s factory, but over time, it significantly boosted domestic consumption. Today, that internal demand is a key driver of China's economy. India must follow a similar path, particularly in sectors like textiles and apparels. We need to build strong local brands and raise awareness, much like what has been done with Kasturi cotton. By creating a solid foundation, we can further promote these initiatives with the help of influential brand ambassadors, who can share India's sustainability story and inspire public support.
Another important factor is India’s youthful population as youth are naturally inclined towards sustainable practices. This generation is already prepared to be the primary consumers of sustainable products, and they are willing to invest in them, even at a higher cost. This growing consciousness among the young population provides the momentum we need as a nation to push forward our sustainability agenda, making it a significant driving force for the country’s future.
Environmental concerns often dominate sustainability discussions, which might unintentionally downplay other key facets like social responsibility and economic sustainability. How do you propose we maintain a balanced perspective on these interconnected areas?
Sustainability is built on three main pillars: environmental, economic and social sustainability aspects. The focus on each pillar often varies depending on the industry and the product being sold—whether it is food, textiles, or consumer goods. It also depends on the consumers and the brands promoting these products. For example, certain industries may prioritise social sustainability, while others emphasise environmental concerns.
Take for example the coffee plantations in Africa or other regions, where the exploitation of indigenous communities has been a long-standing issue. In such cases, the focus is heavily on social sustainability, as global awareness about these exploitative practices drives consumer and brand attention towards ethical treatment and fair labour. On the other hand, when we discuss industries known for high pollution levels, like manufacturing or textiles, the emphasis shifts toward environmental sustainability, with efforts focused on reducing emissions and waste, and building circular supply chains.
Ultimately, the sustainability focus depends on the product being sold and the narrative that the brand wishes to promote. Whether it is addressing social issues or environmental challenges, the sustainability strategy is shaped by both the nature of the product and the values consumers expect from the brands.
While certification and training are central to Ecocert’s work, what other aspects of sustainability does Ecocert contribute to, and how do these initiatives support your overall mission?
Initially, our primary focus was on certification. However, in the past four to five years, we have aimed to reposition ourselves as a comprehensive solution provider. Merely issuing certifications or conducting assessments and returning for renewals does not truly benefit the industry. Instead, we aspire to take a more proactive role by offering hands-on support, such as training programmes.
We are also committed to educating the future leaders by training university students on sustainability, farming practices, and environmental issues. Raising awareness and building a knowledgeable workforce is essential, as the biggest challenge today is a lack of understanding within the manpower available. For a sustainable product, society, or culture to thrive, we need individuals who are well-informed about these concepts.
Currently, standards developed in Europe and America often differ in perception, leading to confusion. Therefore, Ecocert seeks to engage at the grassroots level, teaching and clarifying what sustainability truly means. Certification is merely a starting point, similar to obtaining a degree—it does not guarantee employment or competence. The goal should not be solely to obtain a certificate; instead, it should serve as a stepping stone towards greater sustainability efforts.
Moreover, by getting involved, we support farmers and communities. Training and mentoring are vital to fostering a culture of sustainability among those who practice it. Our aim is to empower competent companies, farmers, and producers so they can effectively contribute to both export markets and domestic consumption.
In a sense, are you aiming to establish a holistic ecosystem that promotes sustainability through increased awareness and educational initiatives?
In a meaningful way, yes; we aim to assist the industry and those involved in the supply chain in gaining a true understanding of what sustainability entails. It is not simply about meeting a single standard, undergoing an audit, and receiving a certificate. Sustainability is a much broader and more complex concept that requires a comprehensive approach.
So how does Ecocert intend to align its operations with its broader sustainability objectives?
To start, we have initiated the development of courses in agricultural universities, beginning with Akola (in Maharashtra), and we have signed agreements with two additional universities in Maharashtra. Our goal is to train between 500 to 1,000 students who will gain a comprehensive understanding of certification, sustainable farming, and natural farming practices. By educating these students, we empower them to either become entrepreneurs or act as vital links between farmers and exporters. Farmers often lack the knowledge to navigate these aspects effectively, so having a student from an agricultural background engage with them can be far more persuasive than an outsider from Delhi, Bengaluru, or Mumbai explaining sustainability. This local connection can help communicate the importance of sustainable and environmentally friendly farming practices, as well as the drawbacks of chemical farming, beyond simply suggesting that they obtain certification.
Additionally, we are participating in seminars and events organised by government bodies, private organisations, and trade associations. Our aim is to clarify the requirements of international brands and markets, breaking down this information in a way that is easily understandable to the general public.
We also plan to collaborate with startups focused on sustainability. Many of these companies recognise the importance of their mission but often lack the knowledge required to implement effective practices. We intend to train them on all aspects related to sustainability, including export and import regulations. By doing so, we aim to equip them with the necessary knowledge so they can focus on sourcing and selling products rather than getting bogged down in technical details.
What about building awareness amongst the end-consumers?
There is a significant opportunity here, and we believe that targeting school children is one of the most effective ways to build awareness among the end-consumers. Take McDonald’s, for example; their success is rooted in their ability to engage children and make them happy. When kids are convinced, their parents are more likely to follow suit. We aim to adopt a similar approach. Currently, we are implementing programmes in France to educate school children about clean farming, organic practices, and sustainable agriculture. By instilling this knowledge in the younger generation, we ensure they are more open to new ideas and empathetic towards these issues.
Ecocert offers over 150 different certification schemes, all centred around environmental sustainability and aimed at mitigating the harmful effects of chemical farming and climate change. Our focus is not limited to certification alone. We aspire to be active participants in the ongoing change, engaging in education and outreach so that we are recognised not just as a third-party certification body, but as a key player in promoting sustainable practices.
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