OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON – A new approach to material use
Hohenstein is a family-owned company with more than 75 years of experience in testing, certification and research. With roots in the textile sector, the Hohenstein testing spectrum now includes both softlines and hardlines. Around the globe, more than 1,000 employees work on testing and service offerings such as testing for harmful substances, performance testing or fit testing. Customers from all over the world receive everything from a single source: Hohenstein supports companies along the entire value chain, from the testing process and certification to the marketing of their products. The Hohenstein experts are experienced partners for more-sustainable materials, products and processes. As a founding member, Hohenstein is one of the most important laboratories for OEKO-TEX, the world’s leading certifier of textile and leather goods. For training and further education, the Hohenstein Academy provides online and face-to-face courses. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Merel Swart, Senior Business Development Manager OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON at Hohenstein, discusses awareness and market adoption of the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification.
Hohenstein has been testing and certifying organic cotton since the start of OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, and launched the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification in 2023. Why did OEKO-TEX decide to launch a dedicated certification for organic cotton?
The use of organic cotton in the fashion and textile industry has increased over the past three decades. As a result, requests to call out organic cotton within OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 certificates significantly increased. To meet this growing need, the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON label was introduced. The OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON label offers verification from farm to end-product. Products bearing this label consist of organically grown cotton, are tested for GMOs and pesticides and cover the testing of other harmful substances. OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON also offers a more understandable label for consumers seeking organic cotton products.
What distinguishes OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON from other organic cotton certifications?
OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON is a specialised certification within the OEKO-TEX portfolio. For over 30 years, OEKO-TEX has tested textiles for harmful substances with the goal to protect consumers and the environment, which has made OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 the most widely used textile seal and the seal for textiles tested for harmful substances. OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON builds on this expertise.
We do not allow mixing of organic cotton and conventional cotton, and all products undergo rigorous checks for GMOs, pesticides and harmful substances. To guarantee traceability, we only accept OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON transaction certificates, which are issued, recorded and managed by the 17 OEKO-TEX institutes, using our shared internal system. We ensure the highest quality standards by conducting all on-site visits with our own expert OEKO-TEX auditors.
Can you elaborate on the role of proven science in OEKO-TEX’s work and how it informs your standards?
Science is the cornerstone of the OEKO-TEX standards. We rely on rigorous scientific research to identify harmful substances, develop advanced testing methods, and assess potential risks. This data-driven approach ensures that our standards are continually updated to reflect the latest scientific findings and protect both human health and the environment.
Does the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification also include the farm level?
The OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification offers verification from farm to end-product, but OEKO-TEX does not directly certify the farms. To qualify for the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification, cotton must be certified as ‘organic’ on the farm level by an independent body accredited according to the IFOAM Family of Standards. Our OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification process begins at the ginning stage, building upon the foundation of organic cultivation established by these independent certifiers.
How does the certification process work from the farm level to the finished product?
The OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification requires the whole supply chain to be certified, from farm to finished product. Transaction certificates are used to track the organic cotton fibres throughout this journey. Companies can apply for OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON through our application form. We then conduct a thorough evaluation of the applicant’s entire supply chain, including a review of transaction certificates, to verify compliance with the standard. Following this assessment, an OEKO-TEX auditor will conduct an on-site visit to assess the companies operations firsthand and collect samples. The OEKO-TEX Institute will then create a testing plan and test the samples in their labs. To ensure ongoing compliance with the certification criteria, OEKO-TEX conducts regular on-site visits. A full on-site visit is performed in the initial year and repeated every 3 years. As for the years in-between the full on-site visits spot visits are carried out by OEKO-TEX auditors. These targeted visits help maintain vigilance and verify continued adherence to standards. Once all certification criteria are met, OEKO-TEX issues a certificate valid for one year. Companies with pre-certified materials can benefit from expedited processing times as these items may not require retesting.
What measures are in place to ensure full coverage and traceability of organic cotton from farm to product?
OEKO-TEX ensures full traceability of organic cotton from farm to product through a robust system. Transaction certificates track the cotton’s journey, while a centralised database verifies accurate quantities at each production stage. Regular on-site visits and inspections guarantee adherence to organic standards. To differentiate between accidental and intentional contamination, we employ rigorous GMO testing. This comprehensive approach safeguards the organic cotton supply chain and protects consumer health.
How does the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification contribute to soil health, regenerative farming, and biodiversity?
By adhering to rigorous organic farming practices, the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification helps preserve soil health and biodiversity. Organic cotton thrives in harmony with nature. This means farming practices avoid synthetic chemicals and instead leverage natural methods like crop rotation and beneficial insects. Organic cotton production prioritises ecological processes and biodiversity, fostering healthy soil, thriving ecosystems, and the well-being of farmers. By relying on natural cycles and local conditions, organic cotton minimises environmental impact while promoting fair labour practices and a better quality of life for all involved.
Can you explain the significance of not using GMOs and testing for pesticides and other harmful substances?
In organic agriculture, we prioritize sustainability and safety. One of the basic rules of organic agriculture is that GMOs are prohibited. Pesticides are minimized to protect soil, water, and wildlife. Testing for harmful substances ensures that organic products are free from chemicals and safe for consumers.
Can you describe the quantitative GMO testing process and how it differentiates between contamination and deliberate mixing with conventional cotton?
As one of the few testing laboratories worldwide, we hold ISO 17025 accreditation for the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol. Essential testing involves raw cotton or chemically untreated yarns and textile surfaces to determine the presence or absence of genetically modified cotton.
Building upon a positive GMO screening, we are one of the first testing laboratories in the world to be able to identify specific cotton lines with known genetic modifications and quantifying their exact proportions in raw cotton samples. This analysis differentiates between minor contamination and substantial genetically modified cotton blends. This is a clear advantage for manufacturers, brands and retailers in terms of supply chain transparency and fraud management.
You mentioned that it is not allowed to mix organic and conventional cotton under OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON, are there other requirements for blends?
Only raw, intermediate and end products with 100 per cent organic cotton can qualify for OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON. Products with an organic cotton content ranging from 70 per cent to less than 100 per cent are certified under the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON Blended label. While other fibres can be included, conventional cotton is strictly prohibited.
How does OEKO-TEX ensure compliance with international requirements and regulations?
OEKO-TEX ensures compliance with international regulations through rigorous testing, continuous monitoring, and expert evaluation. We align our standards with crucial regulations like REACH Annex XIV and XVII, and the US CPSIA. By exceeding these standards, we safeguard consumer health and the environment while fostering trust in the textile industry.
How often are the limit values for harmful substances reviewed and updated?
OEKO-TEX conducts at least one review per year to update limit values for harmful substances. This process is ongoing to ensure that our standards align with the latest scientific advancements and regulatory changes. We closely monitor emerging research and developments in the field to identify potential risks and adjust our requirements accordingly.
How are the human ecology requirements and laboratory tests adapted based on the product classes?
OEKO-TEX tailors its human ecology requirements and testing to four different product classes. We conduct thorough risk assessments to determine the appropriate level of scrutiny for each item. For instance, baby articles undergo more stringent testing than apparel. This targeted approach ensures that our certification accurately reflects the potential risks associated with different products while maintaining the highest standards of human ecology criteria.
Could you provide examples of products in each of the four product classes and explain why different classes have varying levels of requirements?
OEKO-TEX categorises products into four classes based on skin contact and potential risk. Product Class I includes articles for babies and children up to 3 years, with the strictest requirements and limit values. Class II covers products with direct skin contact, like bed linens and underwear. Class III includes items with limited skin contact, such as jackets. Lastly, Class IV encompasses decoration materials with minimal skin contact, like tablecloths and curtains. This tiered system ensures that testing aligns with product-specific risks.
What synergies exist between OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON and other OEKO-TEX certifications, such as ECO PASSPORT?
OEKO-TEX offers a comprehensive suite of certifications for sustainable and safe textile products and production. Our standards cover various aspects, from verifying the organic origin with OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON to chemical safety with OEKO-TEX ECO PASSPORT. Furthermore, OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 guarantees product safety. When combined with OEKO-TEX STeP, which ensures environmentally friendly production and socially responsible working conditions, OEKO-TEX MADE IN GREEN offers traceability and social accountability. This holistic approach empowers brands and consumers to make informed choices for a more sustainable future.
How does the centralised database for transactions contribute to fraud prevention in the supply chain?
OEKO-TEX’s centralised database for transactions plays a pivotal role in maintaining the integrity of the organic cotton supply chain and preventing fraud. By consolidating transaction data from various stages of the supply chain, it provides a comprehensive overview and enables rigorous verification. By monitoring the quantities of organic cotton at each stage of production, the database helps us ensure accurate mass balance calculations.
From April 1, 2025, it would not be possible to certify organic cotton under OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, right? Why is this change coming into effect?
Yes, to strengthen the oversight and ensure the highest standard for certified organic cotton, we will no longer include ‘organic’ or ‘GMO not detectable’ within the scope of OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 certifications for cotton materials, and therefore these certificates must transition to our dedicated OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification. This change will increase the traceability and integrity of our OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification and ensures only genuinely trustworthy organic cotton is labelled as such.
What are some of the benefits for businesses to get their organic cotton products certified?
Sustainability has become a business imperative. Amidst recent industry scandals, trust and transparency are essential. OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification provides the assurance companies need to navigate this complex landscape.
How can companies find OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON suppliers?
We offer the OEKO-TEX Buying Guide, which is a free online directory, designed to connect businesses with products and services certified by OEKO-TEX. Companies seeking reliable suppliers of certified materials or finished products can utilise the Buying Guide to connect with partners throughout the supply chain. This helps businesses source materials that meet their OEKO-TEX certification goals. Users can search for certified products based on various criteria like product type, material, location, and OEKO-TEX certification type.
What are the future goals for OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON, and how do you plan to expand its reach and impact?
The increasing demand for more sustainable textiles is driving a larger market for organic cotton. As consumer awareness grows, we can expect a wider adoption of OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON, and believe we are well-positioned to become the gold standard for organic cotton.
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