Therese Premler-Andersson
Secretary General Textile Machinery Association of Sweden (TMAS)
Focus is on Digitalisation and Speed to Market
TMAS – the Textile Machinery Association of Sweden – is made up of the leading Swedish companies within textile technology, automation and production processes. The expertise of its members ranges from advanced systems for yarn fault detection and tension monitoring, to yarn feeding technology for weaving, automated sewing production lines, cutting machines, embroidery technology, effective material handling systems, spray application system for fabric finishing and much more. At ITMA 2023, Swedish machinery manufacturers will display new way of doing things by using automation and digitalisation, says Therese Premler-Andersson, Secretary General, TMAS, in an interview with Fibre2Fashion.
TMAS recently marked its 25th anniversary. What according to you sets Swedish textile machinery and engineering apart from the rest?
TMAS is made up of the leading Swedish companies within the textile technology, automation and production processes. The priority and focus are on digitalisation and speed to market. The need for automation is increasing and the demand for smarter solutions is here to stay. To incorporate internet of things, big data and artificial intelligence will be a big movement in the coming years. It is about providing machine data in real-time as well as a higher degree of flexibility in production, in order to make minimum production runs profitable. Today, for TMAS companies, business is about much more than just supplying a machine or technology. We have to understand and be prepared to integrate with our customers much more. We need to support a higher degree of training to help them to create intelligent systems and efficient processes. This, of course, means working closely with customers – supplying a flow of ideas on efficiency, quality improvements, reduced waste and adapting for automation. That is how TMAS members distinguish themselves from others.
What are some of the challenges that the textile engineering industry and businesses face at the moment?
I think ‘change’ is the key word in our industry right now. There are several challenges: the energy crisis in Europe, supply chain issues, new regulations and demands on sustainability and traceability as well as lack of competence/ trained workers. Another challenge is also the decline in demand for textiles and garments in several markets right now, which results in lower investments and a decrease in orders in the machinery sector. On the other hand, sustainability is also the biggest opportunity we are faced with as it is pushing for new investments. The increasing middle class in many countries, together with new applications for textiles, also speaks for an ever-increasing demand for new technology.
What kind of support does the Swedish government and TMAS provide to your member companies?
The Swedish government do not support industry associations which makes associations like TMAS even more important. We support our members with training, seminars, networking events, information and market research, roadshows and exhibitions, among other things.
How many TMAS members will be showcasing their products and services at the 19th edition of ITMA in Milan?
We have nine exhibiting members at ITMA, so almost all members are in Milan. The offer ranges from yarn monitoring and feeding, to machinery for automated production of home textiles, collarette cutters and slitting machines, sustainable dyeing solutions and material handling systems. There will be a strong focus on showcasing solutions for automation and digitalisation to reach efficient and sustainable solutions for the customer. The Swedish School of Textiles, Swedish research institute, RISE, as well as Swedish start-ups will also be on site. All in all, we have a very strong Swedish presence at ITMA 2023.
What new technologies and innovations will be on display at ITMA this year?
Swedish machinery manufacturers will display new way of doing things by using automation and digitalisation. Digital dyeing with over 90 per cent less water and chemicals is just one example. There is an interest in reshoring, and you will see flexible solutions, intelligent systems and technology that secure an efficient process, high quality output and new ideas for automation in order to support that trend. Cutting down on production costs is another important factor for our customers and you will see an increased focus on reduced energy consumption among other things.
What are your expectations from the upcoming show?
ITMA has always been the platform for launching innovation and ground-breaking technology. The tag line 2023 being “Transforming the world of textiles” is truly on spot with so much going on within the industry. People are excited to meet face-to-face on the first global show since the pandemic. I expect a lot of interesting presentations and meetings. Everyone knows that moving towards a more sustainable textile industry is not a one man show and ITMA is a great place to find new partnerships.
You recently did a climate impact mapping of the Swedish textile machinery. What were the findings?
For any business that is serious about climate action, the starting point is to calculate a corporate carbon footprint. With a better understanding of an organisation’s greenhouse gas emissions, a robust strategy to reduce emissions can be initiated. We are still at the beginning of the project, but it has already become about sharing best practice, which is a good initial outcome, although I think there is still more to be developed. Sweden has a lot of “green” electricity, produced by sun, wind or water. Therefore, switching to more sustainable suppliers is an easy change for members. Other initiatives being undertaken include waste management, reducing packaging material and ensuring effective transportation of goods.
Is the global textile and apparel industry actively switching their complete production to sustainable solutions for the future? What kind of trend do you observe?
Digitalisation and automation have been trends within the textile and apparel industry for a while and will likely continue to be so, as they help the market to achieve sustainability targets. However, the industry also needs to accept that things need to be done differently. Technology from TMAS’ members are examples of how innovation can contribute to energy efficient and flexible production with minimal waste. We have members whose technology within digital dyeing can reduce the use of water, chemistry and energy up to 90 per cent. These new technologies, along with machinery that can handle recycled fibres, are essential to tomorrow’s sustainable textile production. Projects like TMAS’ Climate Impact Mapping contribute to increasing transparency and traceability within the supply chain, which is another essential trend and future regulation. There is also an emerging interest for production closer to the end-user, with reshoring now growing as a means to reducing overproduction and shipping emissions.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 09/06/2023
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
