Our consumers and critics help us continually elevate our standards
Asha Gautam is a powerhouse of Indian arts and crafts with a contemporary perspective on traditional textiles crafted by a mother-son duo and its weavers and artisans across India to revive the country’s history, culture, and heritage, making each creation a masterpiece. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Asha Gautam’s Creative Director Gautam Gupta discusses various facets of the fashion industry including its trends, challenges, and sustainability efforts.
What recent trends or innovations have you observed in the Indian fashion industry that are shaping its future?
Post-lockdown, there has been a significant change in consumer behaviour, and sensitivity towards the environment has increased. The discussion around sustainability, responsible luxury and circular designing is now taking place at many more drawing boards, design houses and fashion colleges. A lot of research and innovation is happening in this space, right from the material used and procured to the processes involved in construction to the recognition of artisans behind making the design and the way the products are packaged.
Another trend is the increasing inclination of consumers, especially younger ones, towards luxury like never before. Psychographic analysis indicates a greater number of shoppers now prioritise the experience of owning luxury goods, more than they did in the past.
How is the industry responding to the growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products/services? Are there any notable initiatives or practices being adopted?
Attaining complete sustainability in fashion involves a holistic approach that’s challenging for any brand. However, certain practices can introduce more sustainability into the design and production processes, such as ensuring fair pay, using biodegradable materials, adopting natural dyes, and preferring recycled or agro-waste materials.
The response to this shift is promising, as many brands, particularly new ones, are introducing innovative ideas to develop designs more responsibly. This in turn nudges larger, established brands to take similar initiatives. Some noticeable actions include the use of recycled fabrics made from waste plastic, old fabrics, or agro-waste such as banana, bamboo, and soya fibres in not just apparel, but also accessories, home furnishings, and decorative products. Secondly, more brands are incorporating handmade crafts in the design process, reducing power consumption while employing skilled artisans. Another trend is the rise of renting, buying, and selling pre-loved fashion, which in turn curbs the consumption of new products. Enabled by technology and social media, several startups are emerging with eco-friendly, sustainable products, marking an encouraging development in the industry.
In what ways has technology impacted the industry? Are there any specific advancements or digital tools that have transformed the way business is conducted?
Technology has profoundly impacted everything from the proliferation of brands adopting e-commerce to the integration of artificial intelligence and algorithms in digital marketing, effectively bridging the gap between brands and consumers. Today’s technology can shape consumer behaviour, assist in devising demographic-based marketing strategies, and analyse consumer pain points, glitches, and conversions. These custom-made tools are driving innovation in the fashion ecosystem, disrupting traditional business models, and enabling brands to expand from local to national, and national to international markets.
Technology has empowered numerous self-made women’s groups, specialising in specific crafts, to launch their businesses. Countless such endeavours can be found on platforms like Instagram. The exploitation by middlemen has significantly decreased compared to the past. Communication between design houses and artisans has become much simpler and easier, contributing to reduced carbon footprints. Lastly, the adoption of innovative technology and software has made design processes and communication smoother and more efficient.
What are the key challenges currently faced by professionals in the industry and how are they being addressed or overcome?
A major challenge currently faced by industry professionals is the declining number of skilled artisans, particularly handloom weavers, hand embroiderers, and proficient tailors and drapers. To address this, several brands have turned to alternatives such as computer embroidery, powerloom textiles, and mill-based products. However, for those of us who cherish Indian crafts, we are implementing a five-pronged strategy:
First, we integrate these invaluable crafts in both traditional and contemporary designs, thus appealing to a broader audience. For instance, we utilise brocade and Ikat in both lehengas and pantsuits, enhancing our consumption and global appeal of these materials.
Second, we ensure to compensate these artisans above the industry average, nurturing and valuing them as our national treasures.
Third, we aim to train more in-house artisans, particularly encouraging women to participate in the industry, even on a part-time basis. There is vast potential for women artisans to contribute to our craft heritage, especially if training can be provided in their own environments, ensuring comfort and convenience.
Fourth, we strive to position hand-made designs as luxurious, distinguishing them from the rest. It is because competing with fast fashion will not yield sustainable results in the long run.
Lastly, we seek to explore more markets, both domestically and internationally, leveraging technology to achieve this goal.
How do you see the Indian fashion industry evolving in the next few years? Are there any emerging markets or regions that are expected to have a significant impact on the industry’s growth?
The Indian fashion industry, renowned for its versatility and rich tradition, is poised for significant evolution in the coming years. While there’s an emerging inclination towards contemporary wear, this is expected to diversify the application of our crafts rather than diminish their significance. I firmly believe that we are positioned to become global leaders in recycled and upcycled fashion, given our abundant talent and resources. Consequently, we anticipate revolutionary advancements in eco-friendly and responsible fashion, moving beyond mere sustainability.
In recent months, we have seen notable growth in resort, athleisure, and corporate wear segments. While the latter two are predominantly domestic, the resort sector holds promising prospects for expansion in North America, Australia, Brazil, and other tourist-oriented countries. Additionally, we anticipate significant opportunities for eco-friendly fashion in Europe and the US.
Can you tell us a bit about yourself and your background? What inspired you to start Asha Gautam?
I have been part of the industry for 20 years now and have only worked in this industry all my life. I completed my postgraduate degree in management in 2003. After working in Asha Gautam for 7 years in all areas such as designing, operations, marketing and retail, I launched my first collection for the brand in 2010. Subsequently, I did a one-year course from NIFT in 2011, an online course in sustainable fashion in 2019 and started another label GG by Asha Gautam, specialising in couture, fusion and luxury prêt, in 2018.
Asha Gautam was initially founded by my mother, Asha Gupta, in 1998, and I joined her enterprise in 2003. Her admiration for Indian sarees, handlooms, and embroidery inspired her to establish the brand. Designs she created for her daughters’ weddings received substantial attention and praise, encouraging her to expand her creativity. While assisting her during my education, I developed a deep appreciation for handmade fashion. This inspired me to contribute to Asha Gautam’s vision and mission – to narrate the stories of rich Indian crafts and endorse Indian handmade textiles and embroideries.
How do you ensure the quality and authenticity of the products available on your website? Are they sourced locally or internationally?
We ensure the quality and authenticity of our products primarily through in-house production, apart from textiles, which are woven by our trusted weavers at their individual looms. Having worked with these artisans over an extended period, we are confident in the high quality they consistently deliver. In addition, we have established rigorous checks and quality assurance systems within our production unit to further eliminate any potential issues related to quality or authenticity.
Do you offer any customisation options for your products? Can customers request specific modifications or designs?
Yes, we do offer customisation options. Offline, we provide comprehensive customisation services, while online, we primarily accommodate size adjustments. As of now, design modification is not generally available online, except for one or two exceptions.
Are there any particular values or principles that you prioritise in your business? How do these values influence the way you operate?
We have always prioritised using primarily indigenous resources, such as textiles and embroideries. Maintaining this commitment over the past 25 years is a core principle that we have no plans of compromising on. Additionally, we value our workforce highly, ensuring fair and timely payment. Often, we even pay in advance. A testament to this policy is that many artisans have stayed with us since our inception. Respect towards all members of our team is mandatory. Furthermore, we strive to deliver exactly what we promise to our clients and meticulously monitor our designs before delivery. Even leftover fabric is seen as valuable; we aim for zero wastage in our production process. These values have been key in retaining talent, preserving quality standards, and earning the trust of our clients, who have become organic endorsers of our brand.
Other than these values, is there anything else that sets Asha Gautam apart from other similar websites or businesses in your industry?
Our commitment to continuous improvement and adaptability sets Asha Gautam apart. We pour immense effort into crafting unique, authentic designs, which involves a significant amount of behind-the-scenes work. Instead of focusing on what other brands are doing, we rely on our consumers and critics. Their feedback helps us stay on track and continually elevate our standards.
Can you share any success stories or testimonials from customers who have used your products or services?
We have had numerous positive experiences, but one story from a UK-based client stands out. She loved a design but requested a few changes. Despite our usual policy, her persistence led us to make an exception. The entire process was enlightening as we saw how technology can streamline alterations. She frequently spoke with our design consultant, leading to tailored modifications like adding an elastic belt to her draped saree and customising the embroidery. Her rave review was rewarding, but also prompted us to consider offering more customisation options on our website.
What are your future plans for the fashion label?
We are establishing a specific division focused on recycling, upcycling, and responsible fashion. This will serve as a platform to discuss textile waste, the use of natural resources, and improved methods for producing clothes and other lifestyle products. Additionally, we are working on our Fusion and Bridal ’24 collections. Strengthening our website, e-commerce capabilities, and retail partnerships is also a work in progress.
