We are setting up a new ultra-technological and low environmental impact plant
Maglificio Ripa has been one of the most qualified fabric producers on the international scene for over sixty years, collaborating with most major fashion houses and the best-known sports brands. Continuous investment in technology, constant research, a marked tendency towards environmental sustainability, and an all-Italian production make this company a tried and true excellence in textiles and a reliable partner, representing an absolute point of reference. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Director Luca Bianco discusses Italian fabrics, the company’s growth, new projects, goals and more.
What is so special about Italian fabrics that they are loved worldwide?
1. Quality that comes from the traceability of the supply chain and their values
2. Historical tradition and know-how, and
3. Well known taste.
What is the main difference in the fabrics for swimwear, underwear, sportswear, and outerwear?
It is harder and harder today to tell the difference: the edges of the fields are blurred and often customers buy fabrics meant for swimwear to build a coat.
We can say that every one of them has its own priorities: the underwear fabric musty be comfortable and the touch is super important; the swimwear fabric must dry quickly and it must have a high colour fastness; the sportswear must be very technical and it has to combine performance of the fabric with the feeling of the ones who’s wearing it; the outerwear is a huge world where every single garment mush be customised. But, at the end of the day, there’s one thing that they must have in common: they must be beautiful both for their touch and their appearance.
Can you tell us a bit about the background of Maglificio Ripa?
Following the end of World War II, founder Luigi Ripa decided to open a business for the production of tailored knitwear. In 1952, ATIS was founded in Milan, a small industry for the production of ‘Simplex’ fabrics that operated until 1978, when it took the name Maglificio Ripa.
Thanks to the extraordinary skills of the founder, the company experienced rapid development and began to emerge as a reference point for an increasingly organised and mature industry. Technology, design, and continuous research together with the quality of human resources began to make a difference.
After years of experience alongside the founder, today I (Luca Bianco) lead the knitwear factory with the support of a team of young and qualified personnel. Production is split into well-defined sectors: fabrics for swimwear, underwear, sportswear, and outerwear.
Thanks to our cutting-edge design department, Maglificio Ripa interprets macro trends and refines them into innovative offerings on fabrics with advanced technological qualities.
Can you tell us about your academic and professional background and career trajectory at Maglificio Ripa?
I was born in Milan in April 1964. Pragmatism, creativity, and vision have always been my most outstanding qualities. After earning a degree in accounting, two Masters at Bocconi University, and having gleaned valuable experience in other sectors, I made my debut in the textile/clothing sector at the age of twenty-five at Maglificio Ripa as a technician.
Luigi Ripa noticied my qualities and potential, and saw in me a unique resource to the company. My technological experience lasted five years and was followed by a period in both the commercial and administrative departments which allowed me to gain a complete overview.
The company experienced vertical growth and in 1997 Luigi Ripa entrusted the command of the company to me, and I immediately put my experience and vision to good use by taking Maglificio Ripa along international avenues through the opening up of new channels of trade.
How do you stay up to date with the latest trends and technologies in the textile industry?
Luckily, Ripa Is well known for its technology and capability in the knitting industry, so a lot of suppliers (yarn spinners, machine companies etc) comes to us with their latest and most innovative products to test them and to develop partnerships together.
Moreover, we have an internal R&D department that focuses only in the research of new technologies and trends on the market.
Maglificio Ripa has reported a significant increase in turnover and profits for the past year. What do you think has been the main driver of this growth?
A come back from the big companies to Europe because of flexibility, unsure of the market, attention to sustainability and therefore transportation, better dialogue with the suppliers etc. In recent months, in fact, we are witnessing the phenomenon of reshoring, which is bringing many international brands back to Europe who prefer a different and more ethical relationship with their customers as well as greater logistical and product quality advantages.
Can you explain the company’s approach to sustainability and how it is integrated into the business model?
First of all, we try to be updated with the latest technologies, because obviously they are more efficient. Secondly, we are expanding our production and we keep renovating our old machinery. Third, we carry out research of low impact materials, which are more and more sustainable and green. Finally, we try to recycle the most every production waste: for example, we give our fabric wastes to charity organisations.
Maglificio Ripa has always been very aware of social issues as well as the family relationship with its employees. For example, for many years the company has financed an important mission in Togo to provide direct assistance to a local community.
Tell us about the new plant that the company is expanding this year?
Maglificio Ripa is expanding its production facilities with a new ultra-technological and low environmental impact plant of over 2,000 square metres. The plant has been designed like a vertical garden and will be surrounded by greenery. It will be powered by energy from geothermal and photovoltaic plants to ensure that it is environmentally friendly with a zero impact. The new production hub will also feature a complete autonomous machine to store the products, which will improve efficiency and productivity. Overall, this new facility will enable us to continue to innovate and produce sustainable fabrics in a sustainable way.
Maglificio Ripa has recently relaunched its iconic light fabric. What inspired this decision and what are the key features of the new generation of the fabric?
Ripa has become well known in the textile industry thanks to its fabrics that are light but super stretch, comfortable and not transparent, thanks to its high-tech machines. We decided, for our 70 years anniversary, to collect the fabrics that have always been best sellers for us and to launch them in a new, modern way.
Those fabrics are light, compact, stretch, deep in colours, they come in different weights, and they are made with the best yarns on the market. They are both recycled and conventional, polyester and polyamide, and they come with a colour card of more than 80 colours. We decided that the touch of those fabrics had to be the key, so we came up with a family (of fabrics) suitable for every use, but that you can barely feel on your skin.
How do you ensure that the company’s production processes meet high quality and safety standards?
We have the latest machine available on the market, which means more quality. We also visually check 100 per cent of the production before shipping to the customer. We have inside (the production factory) a small lab that helps us test the fabrics before shipping. We test every batch.
How does Maglificio Ripa collaborate with its customers to create sustainable and innovative textile solutions?
We have two ways of working. We develop the collection, and we sell the customers the fabrics the way they are. But we also love to talk with our customers before they start to develop their collection. We start talking when they know what they want but don’t know how to do it, or even better when they are not sure how to achieve a specific thing.
Are there any exciting new projects or partnerships that the company is currently working on?
Yes, we have quite a few important collaborations both with customers and suppliers. For us, it is fundamental to keep those collaborations open.
Ours is a tailor-made service and we almost always develop dedicated projects in close cooperation with customers—from large international brands to the small brands, worldwide.
What do you think sets your company apart from other textile companies in the industry?
Creativity, deep tradition and great experience. Since 1952, we are the ideal partner for the most advanced fashion and sports companies internationally. Constant investments in technology allow us to establish ourselves as a benchmark in the most modern techniques combined with innovative design.
A third generation that brings continuity and young innovation to the company also makes our company different from others in the industry.
What do you see as the biggest challenges facing the textile industry in the coming years, and how is Maglificio Ripa preparing for these challenges?
The biggest challenge is unfair and low-budget competition from countries that do not meet European standards. We fight it not with prices and do not descend to their level to fight a war that is already lost: we are strong in flexibility, quality, innovation, heritage. Today much has changed in people's consciousness. There is more responsibility, ethics, and a desire for real sustainability.
Looking to the future, what are the company’s goals and priorities for the next few years?
We want to continue to be competitive, sustainable and performative, and improve the working environment for all the workers that are fundamental for the company’s growth.