We are seeing only the beginning of a new materials era
MycoWorks is a biotechnology company founded by artists with the mission to create a platform for the highest quality materials using Fine Mycelium. MycoWorks’ proprietary Fine Mycelium platform has enabled a new class of premium, non-animal materials that are the next evolution in mycelium. The California, US-based company uses the tools of biotechnology, manufacturing excellence and creative, master craftsmanship to grow the future of materials. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, MycoWorks’ VP of Product Bill Morris discusses the new material, its applications, and future plans.
How has MycoWorks evolved ever since the development of its first Fine Mycelium leather?
Fine Mycelium, MycoWorks’ patented technology to grow mycelium-based materials, has been in constant evolution since its founding years. Today, we have over 75 patents awarded or pending, and we keep learning and evolving as we grow. With every brand partner and every new industry, we learn, and the technology evolves to meet the desired quality and performance. Fine Mycelium is enabling a new category of material, and we are seeing only the beginning of a new materials era powered by biotechnology.
What was the response to Reishi when it was launched versus the demand now?
The response was very positive when we launched Reishi in 2020 during New York Fashion Week. It was a new material; guests and brand partners were blown away by Reishi’s resemblance to animal leather, its premium quality, and supple softness. Today, after announcing partnerships with Hermés, General Motors, and Ligne Roset, among others, partners are seeing the opportunity, and the demand for Reishi is overwhelming. While customers are more aware of the materials space, they are demanding better natural materials that do not compromise performance; brand partners are eager to introduce Reishi into their collections.
Which are some of the major markets for Fine Mycelium in terms of geography and application?
Since our founding in 2013, we have been partnered with leading brands in fashion and luxury; high-end heritage houses that have a profound commitment to quality and master leather craftsmanship. Most of them are based in Europe, specifically France, but they sell their products globally. While we are seeing the most significant demand for our Fine Mycelium materials from brand partners in Europe and the US, customers across the globe are asking for a better choice that offers quality, performance, and lower environmental impact.
What is the story behind Reishi? Can you take us through the journey of the production of Reishi?
The process starts by combining the mycelium with recycled waste from sawmills in trays; as the sawdust decomposes, the mixture develops (grows) into a thin sheet. The Fine Mycelium sheets are tanned and finished by European heritage tannery partners using our patented chrome-free tanning process.
Fine Mycelium can then be customised to meet brand partners’ specifications, including creating specific textures, colours, and can also include adding other fibres, like cotton. It has the potential to include other materials — like gold or even Kevlar—but that type of specialisation is still years away.
Here’s a general overview of the Fine Mycelium process:
What is MycoWorks’ production capacity? Where are your manufacturing units?
We measure our manufacturing units by the number of sheets we harvest daily. We currently grow our sheets at our pilot plant in Emeryville, CA, and are building our first full-scale manufacturing facility in Union, South Carolina, which will grow thousands of sheets/day, and will be fully operational by 2024.
What is the lead time for developing Fine Mycelium?
Our Fine Mycelium sheets are grown and harvested in less than two weeks.
What have been the major applications? What new ones are you exploring?
High-end leather accessories like bags, purses, wallets, belts etc are the most popular Reishi applications, where our partners see enormous potential in adding a new category of natural material. As we are entering new premium industries like home decor, automobile, and footwear, we are seeing innovation and material applications in surfaces where you would traditionally see animal leather.
What new innovations and materials are you working towards?
Since our founding years, we have partnered with the leading luxury brands, an industry deeply aligned with our values for uncompromising quality and craftsmanship. Our priority is to continue our commitment to grow and expand partnerships within this industry. Last year we announced two significant partnerships, one with General Motors to develop Fine Mycelium materials for the automotive industry and one with Ligne Roset to continue developing materials suited for home decor. Both new initiatives bring specific material quality and performance needs that we are currently developing.
How durable is Fine Mycelium? What kind of maintenance does it require?
We are growing our material for longevity: with proper care, the life cycle of Reishi is similar to traditional fine animal leather. Similarly, each sheet of Reishi has a beautiful patina that develops with wear and time.
Do you plan to get into D2C soon? What is next in the pipeline at MycoWorks?
With our growing demand, we have a healthy pipeline of interested brand partners. In the near future, we are committed to working with them towards continuing to scale our manufacturing capacity and to build Fine Mycelium plants across the globe.
Published on: 14/02/2023
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
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