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Interview with Hansika Chhabria

Hansika Chhabria
Hansika Chhabria
Founder
One Less
One Less

Circularity is at the heart of everything we do at One Less
One Less, founded in 2021 by Hansika Chhabria, is a brand committed to making sustainability an everyday lifestyle. Concerned by the detrimental impact of fast fashion, Chhabria set out to create a clothing line that is both conscious and approachable, placing sustainability at its heart.

One Less offers a range of styles that are minimal, clean, and timeless, perfect for creating capsule wardrobes. Its clothing is designed to last, combining elevated basics with comfort and accessibility. The brand’s mantra, ‘Make Your Everyday Sustainable’, is reflected in its designs and practices.

Dedicated to minimising environmental and social impacts, One Less has introduced initiatives like ‘1 tree = 1 purchase’ in partnership with the UN Fashion and Lifestyle Network and the Mukul Madhav Foundation, supporting 150 families in Panawadi, in Pune district of India. By using OEKO-TEX certified azo-free dyes, One Less ensures that no harmful chemicals are released into the environment, repurposing water to minimise wastage and making its products safe for workers and customers with sensitive skin. At One Less, fashion is kind, and the brand is committed to making a positive impact on the environment, one small stride at a time.

In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, One Less Founder Hansika Chhabria discusses the environmentally sustainable and socially responsible brand.

What inspired you to start One Less, and how did you come up with the name?

One Less started from a desire to make sustainability accessible and part of an everyday lifestyle. I believe that one small step in the right direction makes a collective difference. You might not realise it but making a switch to something as small as bamboo socks, brings down your personal carbon footprint by a lot as compared to regular cotton/polyester socks. Which is why One Less is based on everyday essentials, easy comfortable clothing that can be seamlessly woven into your everyday wardrobe. We believe in doing our bit for the planet, even if it is one small stride; One Less destructive garment at a time.
Studying liberal arts at King’s College London, exposed me to all the inequalities between the North & South, and how India was the production hub for the biggest fashion brands across the world. While the North received goods, the South faced the environmental and social impact of this production. This is when I decided that anything that we did in India had to be environmentally sustainable and socially responsible.
 

How does One Less ensure that its dyeing process is environmentally friendly and safe for workers and consumers? Could you explain the significance of using OEKO-TEX certified azo-free dyes in your products?

One Less prioritises sustainability throughout our clothing production process. We use GOTS-certified fabrics, sourced and produced in India. OEKO-TEX certified azo-free dyes ensure minimal environmental impact during the dyeing process. We champion fair trade practices, ensuring that the farmers, weavers, dyers, and tailors involved in production are treated ethically and receive fair compensation. This builds a sustainable supply chain and empowers communities.

What are the environmental and social benefits of using organic cotton in your production process?

I feel strongly that organic cotton has been a game-changer for both the environment and the communities involved in its production. At One Less, our journey started with ethically sourced organic cotton from KPR Mills, a partner deeply committed to sustainability and social welfare. Organic cotton releases fewer greenhouse gases, enriches soil quality, and uses significantly less water compared to conventional cotton. But it is more than just the environmental impact. KPR Mills also focuses heavily on employee welfare, ensuring fair wages, safe working conditions, and opportunities for growth. This way, every piece we create supports not just the planet, but the people behind it.

Can you elaborate on the benefits of using Tencel in your products and its impact on reducing environmental footprints?

For me, Tencel is a true superstar in sustainable fashion, and I am proud to source it from the Lenzing Group in Austria. Tencel fibres are certified for biodegradability and compostability, making them incredibly eco-friendly. They are known for their comfort, and gentle touch on the skin, which is perfect for our customers who are conscious about what they wear but also want to invest in something durable. The closed-loop production process used to create Tencel is exceptionally resource-efficient, ensuring minimal environmental impact. At One Less we use Tencel, so we are able to deliver high-quality, versatile garments that look great and feel even better.

What measures do you take to maintain a closed-loop system in your dyeing process?

In my opinion, sustainability goes hand in hand with circularity, especially at One Less, we strive to do our best. Our dyeing process is a perfect example of this. We operate on a closed-loop system where water used in dyeing is continuously recycled. Wastewater is collected in tanks with a 50,000-litre capacity and transported to a treatment facility in Karipudur, Tamil Nadu. Through rigorous reverse osmosis, the water is purified and then cycled back into our production process. This not only conserves water but ensures that no resources are wasted, aligning perfectly with our commitment to mindful consumption and sustainable practices. We are also working on a buyback programme to minimise waste and promote the recycling of fabrics.

In what ways do you incorporate circularity into your business model and production processes? Can you discuss the role and impact of the Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) in your partner factories?

As I mentioned earlier, circularity is at the heart of everything we do at One Less. I strongly feel that it is crucial to reduce waste and promote sustainability at every step. From our closed-loop water recycling system in the dyeing process to the ethical sourcing of raw materials, we strive to make a positive impact. Our partner factories at KPR Mills exemplify this commitment with their ETP, which treats 5 million litres of wastewater daily. This treated water is then reused, ensuring zero discharge into the environment.

What is the ‘1 tree = 1 purchase’ initiative, and how does it support your sustainability goals?

When we launched One Less, I knew we wanted to give back to the environment in a meaningful way. That is why we started the ‘1 tree = 1 purchase’ initiative. In partnership with Mukul Madhav Foundation, a portion of every sale goes towards planting fruit-bearing trees in Panawadi, near Pune. So far, we have planted 1,500 trees, benefitting over 150 families. This initiative is not just about planting trees—it is about creating a sustainable ecosystem. Our partners at the Science & Technology (SciTech) Park in Pune work closely with the local Gram Panchayat to oversee the planting process. Horticulturists provide expert guidance, and we continually exchange feedback to ensure the best results. It is a collaborative effort that supports biodiversity, boosts the rural economy, and empowers local communities.

How have you observed consumer behaviour changing in recent years towards sustainability and eco-friendly products? What factors do you think are driving these changes?

Yes, for sure, there has been a significant shift in consumer behaviour in recent years. One of the key factors driving this wave of change has been the awareness that came post COVID-19. People are a lot more aware and looking for more sustainable alternatives putting comfort first.

What do you think are the most significant trends currently shaping the eco-friendly and sustainable products industry, particularly in the context of fashion brands like One Less?

At One Less, we are at the forefront of the movements that are shaping the sustainable fashion industry. Circular economy practices are key; we design garments with durability, repairability, and recyclability in mind. In 2024, we are expanding our use of sustainable materials, broadening our product range, and working on Life Cycle Assessments to reduce waste and lower our carbon footprint. Biodegradable and compostable materials are also crucial—our organic cotton and bamboo fabrics, along with our biodegradable packaging from EnvoPap, minimise our environmental impact. Finally, ethical labour practices are non-negotiable. We ensure fair wages, safe working conditions, and promote social dialogue among our workers, respecting both the planet and the people who craft our clothes.

How do innovation and technology play a role in advancing the eco-friendly products industry, particularly at One Less? Are there any emerging technologies that you believe will be game-changers?

Innovation and technology are absolutely crucial in pushing the eco-friendly products industry forward. At One Less, we constantly explore new ways to integrate advanced technologies into our production processes to make them more sustainable. We are currently doing R&D on a new sustainable material which I am very excited to be working on. Technologies like Tencel’s closed-loop production process and innovations in biodegradable materials are revolutionising how we think about textiles. We are also looking into AI-driven tools that can optimise our inventory management, reducing waste and ensuring that we produce only what is needed. These technologies, combined with our commitment to sustainability, are helping us create products that are not only eco-friendly but also meet the high standards of quality and style our customers expect.

How do you see evolving regulations and policies around sustainability impacting the industry? Are there any particular regulations that you believe will have a major impact?

Evolving regulations and policies are set to significantly impact our industry, and I see this as a positive shift. For instance, policies promoting the use of organic and biodegradable materials, as well as stricter waste management regulations, are driving the industry towards more responsible production processes. One regulation that stands out is the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles, which mandates that manufacturers take responsibility for the entire lifecycle of their products, including end-of-life disposal. This is a game-changer for brands like One Less, as it aligns with our commitment to circularity and sustainable fashion. By ensuring that we not only produce sustainably but also manage the post-consumer phase of our products, we are contributing to a more sustainable future. I believe these evolving regulations will push the industry to innovate and adopt greener practices, ultimately benefitting both the environment and consumers. It is an exciting time for sustainable fashion in India, and I am optimistic about the positive changes these regulations will bring.

What are the biggest challenges the eco-friendly fashion industry faces today, and what opportunities do you see for businesses like One Less to overcome these challenges and thrive?

According to me, the challenges facing the sustainable fashion industry are multifaceted and complex. One of the biggest hurdles is the higher cost of sustainable materials and production processes. This can make it difficult for smaller brands to compete with fast fashion giants. However, I see this as an opportunity for brands like One Less to educate consumers about the true cost of fashion and the long-term benefits of investing in sustainable products. 
Another significant challenge is the lack of infrastructure for recycling and waste management in many parts of the world. To address this, businesses can collaborate with local governments and organisations to develop and support initiatives that improve waste management systems. And of course, there is always the challenge of consumer behaviour. Shifting consumer preferences towards sustainability requires consistent effort and innovation. This is where businesses have a huge opportunity to lead by example, creating stylish, high-quality products that prove sustainable fashion does not mean compromising on aesthetics or performance. 
To overcome these shifts, I believe that collaboration within the industry is key. By sharing best practices, technologies, and resources, we can collectively overcome these challenges. At One Less, we are always looking for partnerships and collaborations that align with our values and help us advance our sustainability goals. The more we work together, the stronger our impact will be.

What are your future plans for One Less? Are there any new products or innovations in the pipeline that you are particularly excited about?

We are working on having a buy back policy where customers can return their One Less products to us, we recycle the fabrics and make new products from the same.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 22/07/2024

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.