We believe profitability and sustainability can coexist.
In an exclusive interview with Fibre2Fashion, Chelsea Franklin, Head of Advanced Concept Design at PANGAIA discusses the challenges and opportunities of driving sustainability in the fashion industry. From scaling eco-friendly innovations like seaweed fibre to ensuring ethical supply chains, the company is redefining how fashion can balance environmental responsibility with growth. She delves into the company’s approach to circular economy principles, consumer education, and partnerships that amplify its positive impact, offering insight into the future of sustainable fashion.
Your website highlights various eco-friendly innovations, such as seaweed fibre and recycled materials. What challenges do you face in scaling these innovations globally?
PANGAIA was created as a vehicle for scaling next-generation materials, however, transitioning from small-scale prototyping to larger-scale production while maintaining consistency and quality often presents challenges.
As a team, we continue to optimise manufacturing processes, source reliable suppliers, and ensure scalability without compromise—these are key considerations when scouting and vetting partner innovation. Of course, challenges are always faced, but collaboration is key to solving things along the way. Great relationships with strong communication have allowed us to troubleshoot effectively.
How do you ensure that PANGAIA’s supply chain remains transparent and ethically sourced as the company grows?
Transparency is paramount. We prioritise ethical sourcing by partnering with suppliers who align with our values and commitment to an earth-positive future. We maintain open communication, conduct regular audits, and have a traceability system that tracks materials from source to production, ensuring adherence to environmentally responsible practices. As we grow, we remain dedicated to enhancing our transparency measures.
Sustainability is often seen as a balancing act between profitability and environmental stewardship. How does PANGAIA maintain this balance while continuing to grow its business?
We believe profitability and sustainability can coexist. Our strategy involves investing in innovative materials and technologies that minimise environmental impact. By focusing on high-quality, everyday products, our ambition is to make innovation accessible.
Founded as a platform for launching next-generation materials, PANGAIA aims to bring problem-solving innovations to the world through premium lifestyle products. For instance, the 100 per cent bio-based MIRUM with a regenerative cotton backing used in The GAIA Bag offers a cruelty-free alternative to traditional leather, which often relies on animal hides.
What role does consumer education play in PANGAIA’s strategy, and how are you ensuring that your customers understand the environmental impact of their purchases?
Consumer education is a cornerstone of our approach. We engage with our community through various platforms, sharing insights on the impact of materials and production processes. Our initiatives include workshops and informative content to empower our community to make informed choices.
We encourage consumers to adopt more sustainable practices by following simple guidelines—using less plastic, avoiding synthetics, and prioritising regenerative plant-based alternatives. Understanding the environmental impact of materials, such as cotton and polyester versus next-generation alternatives, helps consumers make better purchasing decisions. Every small step towards sustainability matters.
Can you tell us more about PANGAIA's partnerships with environmental organisations or other stakeholders that help the brand achieve its impact goals?
We collaborate and work with various organisations to amplify our positive impact. Our partnership with the Tomorrow Tree Fund, for example, supports global reforestation efforts. Our partnerships with research institutions allow us to explore sustainable materials and practices, enhancing our innovation capacity and contributing to broader environmental goals.
With the fashion industry under scrutiny for its environmental footprint, what specific metrics does PANGAIA use to measure its success in reducing its carbon footprint?
We are committed to transparency, releasing a Responsible Innovation & Impact Report annually that details our progress, achievements, and challenges. In 2023, our Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) covered 84 per cent of our products, allowing us to analyse 13 impact metrics—three of which we prioritise each year.
The GAIA Bag is a prime example of our efforts to reduce carbon footprint, using materials like MIRUM backed for the first time with Climate Beneficial cotton sourced from the California Cotton & Climate Coalition (C4), a Fibershed project. This cotton is grown using regenerative methods that actively help rebalance the carbon cycle.
For 2024, we will focus on impact reduction strategies based on comprehensive value chain risk assessments. Our goals include achieving net-zero emissions across our entire value chain by 2040 and reducing emissions from our direct operations by 42 per cent by 2030. With our climate partner, Plan A, we measure our carbon footprint annually and publish the results by the Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Protocol.
How does PANGAIA incorporate circular economy principles into its product lifecycle, from production to end-of-life recycling or repurposing?
We embrace circular economy principles by designing products with their entire lifecycle in mind. This includes selecting recyclable or biodegradable materials and developing take-back programmes to encourage recycling. Our focus on reducing waste and promoting longevity in our products contributes to a more sustainable future.
Transparency is key in our operations, and our responsible innovation team verifies the environmental footprint across our supply chain, sharing our progress through annual reports to build trust and encourage collective sustainability efforts.
What are PANGAIA’s long-term goals in terms of sustainability and impact? How do you plan to continue innovating in the next 5-10 years?
Our long-term goals include achieving net-zero emissions by 2040 and scaling our sustainable materials. We plan to continue investing in research and development to discover new material innovations and bio-based, cruelty-free alternatives. Our focus will remain on bringing our community along on this journey and inspiring collective action for meaningful change in the industry.
What advice would you give to other companies in the fashion industry looking to create a positive impact on the environment while remaining competitive?
To create a positive environmental impact while remaining competitive, companies should prioritise transparency, invest in materials science innovation, and adhere to industry best practices. Building a sustainable brand requires a commitment to evolving, learning, and improving continuously.
Sustainability is becoming a key focus across the fashion industry. What do you think are the biggest barriers to widespread adoption of sustainable practices by major brands?
The main barriers to the widespread adoption of sustainable practices include a lack of supply chain transparency, resistance to change within established business models, and concerns over the cost of material development. Traditionally the industry has been hesitant to invest in sustainability due to short-term profit pressures. Additionally, the complexities of sourcing earth-positive materials and ensuring ethical labour practices can be daunting. However, the long-term benefits outweigh these challenges.
How is the use of alternative materials, such as bio-based or recycled fibres, shaping the future of textiles and apparel? Are these innovations truly scalable for the industry?
The use of bio-based and recycled fibres is revolutionising the textiles and apparel industry, meeting consumer demand for sustainable options while reducing reliance on virgin resources. The GAIA Bag, made from MIRUM, is a testament to the potential of alternative materials. While scalability is a challenge, increasing investment in research and technology will enhance production capacity. As more brands adopt these materials, we expect a shift toward a more sustainable textile landscape.
The fashion industry has a significant environmental footprint, particularly in terms of water usage and carbon emissions. What emerging technologies or strategies have the greatest potential to mitigate these impacts?
Emerging technologies, such as advanced dyeing techniques that reduce water usage, biotechnological innovations for textiles from agricultural waste, and digital technologies for efficient inventory management, have great potential to mitigate the fashion industry's environmental footprint. Strategies like on-demand production and improved recycling methods can significantly reduce waste, contributing to a more sustainable and efficient industry.
How important is transparency in the supply chain for fashion brands today, and what steps can companies take to ensure ethical and environmentally responsible sourcing?
Transparency in the supply chain is crucial for building trust and demonstrating a commitment to creating a better planet for all. Brands can ensure ethical and environmentally responsible sourcing by establishing clear supplier guidelines, conducting regular audits, and implementing traceability systems. Open communication about sourcing practices enhances credibility, and as consumers increasingly prioritise transparency, brands that embrace it will stand out in the market.
With the rise of fast fashion, how can the industry reconcile the demand for affordability with the need for more sustainable, long-lasting products?
To reconcile affordability with sustainability, a shift in consumer behaviour and industry practices is necessary. Brands should focus on producing high-quality, durable products that offer long-term value rather than fast, disposable items. Educating consumers about the environmental costs of fast fashion is essential to foster a mindset shift towards valuing sustainability. Transparent pricing models that reflect the true cost of production can help consumers understand the benefits of investing in sustainable, long-lasting products.
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