Our product can directly replace synthetic indigo
Synovance is at the forefront of revolutionising the textile industry by tackling one of its most significant environmental issues: the production of toxic synthetic dyes. As the global population is expected to reach 9 billion by 2050, the demand for resources will increase, highlighting the unsustainability of current petrochemical-dependent production practices. Synovance envisions transforming the fashion industry into a model of sustainability, reducing its chemical footprint and freshwater pollution.
By harnessing biotechnology, Synovance creates eco-friendly, bio-produced dyes from microorganisms. These microorganisms convert industrial waste into high-value pigments, providing a sustainable alternative to traditional harmful chemicals. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Co-founder Efthimia Lioliou discusses production and scaling up of bio-based textile dyes.
Can you discuss some innovative approaches or technologies that have been successful in reducing the environmental impact?
There has been significant progress in the recycling of various fibres, such as cotton and polyester. It is encouraging to see more companies focusing on recycling and reusing materials instead of producing new ones. Although not all companies have succeeded in this endeavour, the trend is very promising.
Innovation is also happening in the application of dyes to fabrics. While we do not yet know which of these innovations will ultimately succeed, it is exciting to see ongoing efforts in this area. Another notable innovation is the development of plant-based leather, which helps minimise animal cruelty. Many companies are making strides in this space, and that is very encouraging.
Furthermore, there is a significant push from final consumers and customers who recognise the urgent need to address environmental issues. This consumer demand is driving more companies to work on sustainable solutions, including environmentally friendly dyes. It is heartening to see a growing collective effort to improve the environmental impact of the textile industry.
Can you provide an overview of Synovance’s mission and goals in the context of sustainable textile dye production?
At Synovance, our mission is to revolutionise the textile and cosmetic industries by replacing chemical pigments with sustainable alternatives. Our primary goal is to eliminate the use of harmful chemical pigments currently prevalent in the textile industry. These pigments are often derived from petrochemicals and fossil fuels. For instance, the production of indigo dye involves several toxic chemicals such as hydrogen cyanide, a poison, and aniline, a carcinogen. Unfortunately, not all aniline is converted during synthesis, leaving residues that are released into the environment during the dyeing process. This exposure poses significant health risks to workers and can even be detected in the final product, such as blue jeans.
By replacing these harmful chemical pigments with our bio-produced dyes, we aim to address these issues and reduce environmental impact. Our technology significantly lowers CO2 emissions—by more than ten times compared to traditional chemical processes—making a substantial positive contribution to the industry.
Additionally, the classic dyeing process for indigo consumes a large amount of water. However, we are exploring innovative technologies developed by our partners that minimise water usage. These methods include the atomisation and pulverisation of pigments, allowing for direct application to fabrics. By combining our sustainable bio-produced dyes with these water-efficient technologies, we believe we can create a groundbreaking new process for the textile industry.
Could you explain the process of producing bio-based textile dyes using microorganisms and industrial waste as raw materials?
The process is somewhat similar to beer fermentation. Essentially, we use genetically modified microorganisms capable of producing colour—in this case, blue dye.
To grow these microorganisms, we feed them sugars, along with a small amount of salt and water. On a small scale, we use glucose, but we have also developed strains that can utilise sucrose. This allows us to use byproducts from the sugar industry, such as molasses, which would otherwise be considered waste. This approach supports a circular economy and provides an additional environmental benefit.
Here’s a step-by-step overview of the process:
Feedstock: We start with byproducts like molasses from the sugar industry.
Fermentation: These byproducts are fed to the genetically modified microorganisms.
Growth: The microorganisms grow and produce the desired colour.
Collection: We collect the bacteria that produce the colour.
Disruption: The bacteria are disrupted to release the colour.
Purification: The colour is purified through several washes.
Final Product: The process results in a final powder form of the colour.
This is a broad outline of our process, which enables us to produce eco-friendly, bio-based textile dyes efficiently.
What are the advantages of using bio-produced dyes over traditional synthetic dyes in terms of sustainability and environmental impact?
The primary advantage is that we replace chemical products derived from non-renewable fossil fuels, which come with various environmental issues, including the use of toxic chemicals like aniline. Our bio-produced dyes do not involve any chemicals in the production process. Furthermore, our product can directly replace synthetic indigo without requiring any changes in the manufacturers’ facilities. This allows for the same results with a product that is completely free of harmful chemicals.
What is the significance of pilot-scale production facility in Bry-sur-Marne, and what milestones have been achieved since its establishment?
Our pilot scale production facility in Bry-sur-Marne, France, is currently capable of 1,000 litres of fermentation. Since its establishment, we have successfully conducted several industrial proof-of-concept projects with manufacturers in both Southern Asia and Europe. These tests have provided valuable feedback, enabling us to further refine our process. As a result, we now have a product that is market-ready, though continuous improvements are always possible.
Our next goal is to move from initial industrial trials to pre-commercial delivery, potentially producing small capsule collections for brands. Additionally, we are scaling up our production capabilities and plan to have a demonstrator scale facility ready by the beginning of the new year, capable of producing several tons of indigo.
How do you plan to scale up production of bio-produced dyes to meet market demand?
We are currently in the process of raising funds. Once we secure the necessary funding, we plan to significantly increase our fermentation capacity at our facility in Bry-sur-Marne. Our goal is to expand this capacity by 40 times through the acquisition of additional fermenters and other essential equipment. This will involve upgrading our production line to a much larger scale. This expansion represents a crucial step in our development and our ability to meet growing market demand.
What collaborations or partnerships is the company pursuing with denim manufacturers or other stakeholders in the textile industry?
We have a notable partnership with Italian denim manufacturer Pure Denim, led by Luigi Gazia, who works with some of the world’s biggest brands. We are running one of our proof-of-concept projects with him, where we are also testing an innovative technology that significantly reduces water usage in the dyeing process, alongside traditional dyeing methods. This partnership is valuable, and we plan to continue working with him.
Additionally, we have collaborations with providers of raw ingredients, such as byproducts from the sugar industry and spent brewing grains, to ensure a consistent and sustainable supply for our production process. These partnerships are crucial for maintaining our commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility.
Are there any specific applications or niches within the textile industry where Synovance’s bio-based textile dyes have demonstrated advantages or potential for innovation?
Yes, that is a very interesting question. One primary application for our bio-based dyes is in cotton and denim. However, we have also tested our dyes on polyester with another manufacturer and achieved great results, which is very exciting for us.
Additionally, we are collaborating with a partner in Spain to test our dyes on recycled resin material from scrapped cars. This development is particularly interesting as it further engages with the circular economy. We are also exploring the use of our dyes on plant-based leather, and while we are still awaiting results, this represents another exciting opportunity.
Overall, we are striving to maximise our impact across various niches in the textile industry by innovating and expanding the applications of our bio-based dyes.
What sets Synovance apart from other companies or initiatives that are also working towards sustainability within the textile industry?
We believe what sets Synovance apart is our exceptionally strong and complementary team. While many might claim this, our achievements with a relatively small amount of financing truly demonstrate our team’s capacity, efficiency, and resilience. We have been able to drive innovation forward despite limited resources.
For instance, we modified fermenters ourselves to convert them into bioreactor vessels, achieving this at a fraction of the cost compared to purchasing pharmaceutical-grade bioreactors. This ingenuity and resourcefulness are key aspects of what makes us unique.
Additionally, our expertise in genetics and fermentation, combined with a global spirit and culture of constant innovation, enables us to create high-impact solutions with minimal resources. This focus on efficiency and innovation is a core strength of Synovance, and we are very proud of it.
In your opinion, how can effective collaborations or partnerships between companies, research institutions, and government agencies contribute to promoting sustainability within the textile industries?
Effective collaborations are crucial for promoting sustainability in the textile industry. For example, we are working with an innovative Spanish company that develops recycled resins from cars for use as dye material. We plan to apply for joint financing to further this project. Such partnerships open up numerous possibilities for innovation.
We also collaborate with research institutes to enhance our downstream processes. Pooling resources and bringing together intelligent minds can lead to highly impactful outcomes. It is essential for governments to support these initiatives through public financing. For instance, we received funding from the European Union a couple of years ago, which allowed us to establish our plant in Bry-sur-Marne.
Government support, through financing and other means, is vital to fostering these collaborations and driving meaningful progress towards sustainability in the textile industry.
How do you envision the future of the textile industry, particularly in terms of the adoption of sustainable practices and the widespread use of bio-based textile dyes?
I believe the textile industry is ready to adapt. We have been approached by many people from the industry, indicating a strong interest in sustainable practices. One significant driver for this shift is regulation, particularly within the European Union, where new regulations are emerging that will require companies to demonstrate their environmental credentials. For example, they will be prohibited from using dyes containing carcinogenic substances.
Additionally, the introduction of digital passports and certifications will further push companies towards sustainability. I am optimistic that brands will embrace these changes. There are challenges, such as cost comparisons between innovative sustainable solutions and traditional methods. However, we believe our technology and pigments can become competitive with synthetic ones within five years. Initially, we hope early adopters will be willing to pay a higher price, but as we scale up, our prices should become comparable to synthetic dyes.
Performance is also crucial for brands and manufacturers, but after having run several industrial pilots where performance of our bio-based indigo was comparable to the synthetic one, we are confident that expectations will be met. Of course, we will keep on innovating and improving our product.
According to you, what will be the future trajectory for sustainability initiatives and what opportunities or challenges may arise in the coming years?
The opportunity for sustainability initiatives is significant due to the urgent need for innovation to create positive environmental impacts. However, the main challenge lies in achieving performance levels that match traditional methods used for hundreds of years. People are often resistant to change and expect new innovations to perform just as well as established products. Manufacturers and brands we have worked with frequently express scepticism and require proof of performance.
Another challenge is reducing costs to make sustainable solutions competitive in the market. Additionally, ensuring a consistent and stable supply of raw materials is crucial. Fluctuations in the availability and price of raw materials, such as sugar, can affect the entire process. Managing these variables is essential for maintaining a sustainable and scalable production system.
In summary, while there are substantial opportunities for positive environmental impact, the key challenges will be meeting performance expectations, reducing costs, and stabilising raw material supplies.
Finally, what will be your advice for the startups? Any tips?
It is a challenging time for businesses to advance, so resilience and strong belief in what you do are crucial. My advice for startups is to actively seek public financing and not rely solely on private funding. Exhaust all available opportunities for public support.
Partnerships are also vital. Pool resources wherever possible and build a strong network to support your efforts. Collaboration is essential; you cannot achieve success alone. Accelerators can be incredibly helpful, especially in the early stages. We have benefited greatly from working with a few accelerators, and their support has been critical. Networking and leveraging available resources are key to navigating the startup landscape successfully.
