Daniel Odermatt & Justus Harm
Brand Director & Co-executive Director Ventile & EBDA
Our partnership supports production of regenerative-grown organic cotton
In 2023, textile manufacturer Ventile partnered with the Egyptian Biodynamic Association (EBDA), an organic and regenerative farming association, to support Egyptian farmers in applying biodynamic cotton farming methods in order to produce high-quality, ethical and regenerative-grown organic cotton for textile production. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Ventile Brand Director Daniel Odermatt and EBDA Co-executive Director Justus Harm talk about the partnership and its progress.
Can you share how the partnership between Ventile and EBDA was initially conceived and what key goals were set at the outset?
Daniel Odermatt: As a team, at Ventile we are constantly researching more sustainable ways of producing our fabrics – from fibres to finishings. When EBDA reached out to us we were impressed by the amazing work they do in Egypt and so, in early 2023, we combined our efforts to support two farms as they transition from conventional cotton growing into biodynamic methods.
In the first year of the partnership, we worked together to identify and support two farms; Salsol Farm and Ramadam Kamel Farm as they transform the land. The primary objective is to support the production of high-quality, ethical and regenerative-grown organic cotton. Early reports show that the long-term productivity and quality of cotton from the farms are expected to increase significantly with cotton yield increasing by 157 kg per acre in the first year.
Justus Harm: We look to work with key partners such as Ventile to support our mission of promoting biodynamic and organic agriculture in Egypt while improving the knowledge and capabilities of the farmers. This partnership aims to support smallholder farmers as they work to convert from conventional to organic and biodynamic farming methods. Thanks to Ventile’s ongoing support, each farmer has been allocated their own EBDA engineer, and together, the land has been cultivated to improve soil health. We have already seen an enhancement in soil organic matter, microbial activity, and overall soil fertility. The farms have collectively generated 380.83 carbon credits, produced 390 tonnes of verified compost, and planted 57 trees.
How does the EBDA’s biodynamic approach align with Ventile’s sustainability and quality standards for fabric production?
DO: Ventile fabric is made from premium quality yarns that can be found in only a small number of the world’s cotton production. Quality is at the heart of our fabric, and we are increasingly aware of the scarcity of these fibres. It is becoming more and more challenging to source organic cotton that is both biodynamically farmed and of a high quality. Projects such as this provide farmers with the skills, knowledge, and access to experts, to support a move to regenerative farming methods. Working with EBDA supports our ongoing aim to provide environmentally conscious fabric solutions and it also supports the future production for the textile industry.
JH: When farmers are supported with the resources needed to transition to more sustainable and regenerative practices, we ensure that our planet’s finite resources will be used responsibly. Partnerships such as this are important so that farmers are able to grow and harvest high-quality cotton for generations to come.
What has been the biggest challenge in applying biodynamic cotton farming methods at scale, especially in the Egyptian agricultural landscape?
JH: Moving towards a biodynamic way of farming is always a challenge. It takes knowledge, time and financial backing. That is why it is important that we raise awareness of the practice and the impact it has on farming communities and the planet.
How is the partnership supporting Egyptian farmers, and what kind of training and resources are provided to them by EBDA and Ventile?
JH: For many years we have worked with the greatest experts in the industry to provide guidance and training throughout the process. Each of our farms is allocated a dedicated EBDA field consultant who is with the farmers from the initial land-needs assessment, through to the training plan which covers the topics of agricultural techniques, fertilisation methods and organic pest control strategies. Our farming members and member companies comply with national and international regulations of sustainable farming and processing, including Demeter certification; EU-organic production regulation; Economy of Love; NOP; Bio Suisse and Fairtrade.
Could you elaborate on the regenerative aspects of the cotton being produced under this collaboration, and how it differentiates from conventionally grown organic cotton?
JH: The regenerative cotton produced under our collaboration goes beyond organic by focusing on the holistic health of the entire ecosystem. Biodynamic farming treats the farm as a living organism, emphasising soil regeneration, biodiversity, and ecological balance. Unlike conventionally grown organic cotton, which primarily avoids synthetic inputs, biodynamic cotton relies on crop rotation, intercropping, composting, and natural pest management to actively improve soil fertility and enhance microbial life. This approach not only prohibits chemicals but also revitalises the land, sequesters carbon, and supports long-term resilience. The result is a cotton that regenerates the environment while delivering exceptional quality, making it a truly sustainable fibre for the future.
DO: Once the crops are ready, the farms will then go through the process by Demeter to receive certification, which verifies that biodynamic products meet international standards in production and processing.
What impact do you foresee this partnership having on the future of sustainable fashion and the broader textile industry?
DO: I have worked in the textile industry for over 40 years, and in this time, we have seen a massive shift in the industry towards sustainably sourced fibres, much of which has been driven by consumer demand. The work of organisations such as EBDA is crucial for the future of the textile industry and the hope is that our partnership will inspire others to take up initiatives such as this to establish and maintain sustainable agriculture for a positive environmental impact. If we want to encourage the use of natural fibres, we need to make sure they are available.
How have consumers and the fashion industry responded to Ventile’s use of biodynamic cotton, and has there been an increase in demand for products made from this material?
DO: The response to the news has been overwhelmingly positive from the textile media. As a business, sales of the ECO Organic fabrics continue to grow, which suggests that customer interest in sustainable alternatives continues to be an important part of the buying process – with customers opting for investment pieces that will stand the test of time.
What steps are you taking to educate consumers on the benefits of biodynamic cotton and its significance for sustainable fashion?
DO: When we launched our ‘Join the movement’ campaign in 2019, we wanted to encourage customers and consumers alike to choose slow fashion and more sustainable practices within this industry. In addition to our work with EBDA, we collaborate with educational institutions to deliver talks, workshops, and fabric support for the new, up and coming designers. This is something we are passionate about and are looking to roll out further next year.
How do you see the role of regenerative and biodynamic farming evolving in the global textile industry over the next 5-10 years?
JH: Over the next 5-10 years, regenerative and biodynamic farming will become essential to the global textile industry as sustainability moves from a trend to a necessity. These farming methods, which restore ecosystems and improve soil health, will play a crucial role in producing high-quality natural fibres like cotton while addressing the climate crisis. Consumers will increasingly demand transparency and ethical sourcing, pushing brands to adopt regenerative practices that benefit both the planet and farmers. The holistic Economy of Love standard, developed within our association EBDA will guide this transformation, ensuring a future where textiles are woven from principles of regeneration and socio-ecological harmony.
With the growing consumer demand for transparency, how can textile companies better communicate the sustainability and ethical standards of their materials?
DO: The textile industry takes the subject of sustainability and ethics seriously. At Ventile, we are very careful only to onboard suppliers and partners who are able to demonstrate they have appropriate certification, endorsements and membership of relevant bodies such as OEKO-TEX and GOTS. Membership of such organisations should mean that they comply with the minimum standards necessary. We go further and look to only work with partners and suppliers who share our values and mindset. I think that everyone we work with sees the importance of being able to demonstrate full traceability. We appreciate that our efforts in this respect, with the need to sometimes source alternative suppliers, will always be a continuous endeavour but we are fortunate enough to work with expert partners who are not only knowledgeable in their specific fields but also have a flexible and adaptable mindset in respect of change.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 29/10/2024
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
