Designing a handloom-based collection is both exciting and demanding
Vinusto connects handloom connoisseurs with craftsmen through technology, embodying the ethos of #weaverstowearers, and champions authentic, high-quality garments and sarees. As a social enterprise, it aims to empower weavers by streamlining the supply chain, promoting fair trade, and preserving cultural heritage through its virtual shop. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Anshula Yuvaraj, Founder & CEO, talks about ensuring fair compensation and ethical practices at every juncture.
How can consumers make more informed choices regarding supporting ethical and sustainable fashion?
Conscious consumerism entails consumers acknowledging and acting upon the social, environmental, and ethical consequences of their purchasing decisions. It necessitates individual-level changes to influence the broader ecosystem. As such, consumers play a pivotal role in advocating for ethical and sustainable fashion through mindful and informed choices in their daily lives and purchases.
To support sustainability, consumers can:
Research brands and products thoroughly, examining reviews, ratings, and policies to minimise unnecessary returns.
Opt for sustainable products by scrutinising product descriptions and checking for relevant certifications.
Prioritise quality over quantity, reducing consumption by purchasing only what is needed.
Engage in practices such as donating, swapping, reusing, and upcycling old clothes rather than discarding them.
Support local and small businesses that prioritise ethical and sustainable practices.
Raise awareness about sustainability issues and encourage others to join the cause.
Fortunately, there is a growing awareness among consumers today, leading to a positive shift in attitudes. There is an increased sensitivity towards environmental concerns, social responsibility, and the ethical implications of purchasing decisions. This shift is driving consumers to seek out brands that align with their values, further fostering the movement towards sustainable fashion.
Can you describe the founding vision of Vinusto and how it aligns with the preservation of Indian handloom and handicraft traditions?
Vinusto is an amalgamation of ‘Viraasat’ (legacy) and the Latin word ‘Venusto’, which means to beautify and embellish. Sustaining and embellishing the legacy forms the core of Vinusto. We are a socially focused enterprise established on the foundation of fair trade and recognition of skills. We are committed to nurturing craftsmanship by providing market insights, competitive display opportunities, revenue streams, and a fair share of sales proceeds to the weavers.
Vinusto is a sustainable label, offering ethnic and fusion wear made-to-order from authentic handlooms and pure fabric. Our designs are classic and versatile, customisable, have a quality finish, and offer ‘value for money’. Thus, Vinusto offers genuine handmade luxury products that are easily accessible and affordable to discerning customers in India and abroad. Our weaver partners and karigars are at the core of our team, and we connect them with handloom connoisseurs, hence the hashtag #weaverstowearers.
What are the key challenges you face in maintaining the quality and authenticity of handloom products while integrating modern design elements?
Handloom products represent our cultural heritage and serve as a vital source of income and livelihood for many artisans. However, ensuring the quality and authenticity of these products requires considerable effort, particularly when integrating modern design elements.
To begin with, we prioritise fair compensation for our weavers and artisans to prevent compromises on fabric quality or the use of machine-made alternatives that are cheaper and faster to produce. Through ongoing engagement and feedback, we support our weaver partners in upholding their commitment to authenticity. By sharing a portion of sales proceeds with them, we cultivate a sense of ownership towards this commitment. Nonetheless, conducting quality checks for handloom products demands creativity and attention to detail.
Designing a handloom-based collection is both exciting and challenging. We must carefully consider the fabric’s nature and quality while conceptualising themes and creating designs. Our fabrics, crafted from natural fibres using traditional techniques, are soft, airy, and delicate. Selecting suitable raw materials, techniques, and trims requires careful consideration. At times, our creativity may be constrained by the need to preserve specific surface designs on the fabric.
How does Vinusto’s cluster outreach and advocacy programme work, and how has it impacted the weaver communities?
At the heart of our business lies handloom, sourced directly from its origin to ensure authenticity. We establish connections with weavers and artisans through cluster outreach, engaging with them at events, exhibitions, and through calls. Each cluster serves as a production hub for our raw materials, sourced directly from the weavers’ looms. We prioritise the use of relevant raw materials for weaving, with weavers overseeing quality control followed by rigorous checks from our in-house design team.
Collaborating closely with our weaver partners, we incorporate their design preferences and colour choices while maintaining elements of their traditional patterns. This fusion of Vinusto’s designs with the weavers’ sensibilities creates a unique display. Our participatory approach in design inputs, pricing, and market trends fosters a strong sense of ownership among our weavers.
Through our cluster outreach and advocacy for weavers, we have cultivated customer advocacy, creating a chain of social engagement. Every handloom product on display reflects our commitment to authenticity, detailed in product information shared with customers.
Over the past few years of our engagement, our cluster associates have experienced significant growth, expanding operations by renting additional space, increasing looms by 60-75 per cent, reducing product development cycle times, and enhancing their understanding of quality standards and basic technology.
In what ways does the design centre at Vinusto ensure that weavers stay aligned with current fashion trends without compromising traditional techniques?
Vinusto, derived from the concept of adorning with embellishments and beautifying, embodies our commitment to enhancing the craftsmanship of weavers. At the core of this endeavour is our design centre, pivotal in boosting the marketability of artisans’ creations.
Our design team plays a crucial role by offering consistent guidance to artisans on current fashion trends, colour palettes, motifs, and their placements, all while respecting the artisans’ creative autonomy. Additionally, we provide valuable feedback on product quality, consumer responses, and expectations, thereby streamlining the product development and improvement cycle.
We actively promote and sell the sarees and dupattas crafted by weavers, extensively incorporating their handwoven fabric into our collections, thereby creating an additional revenue stream for them. Our collections are themed, allowing us to employ intricate details, embroideries, surface techniques, and trims to further enhance the beauty of handloom outfits.
Could you elaborate on the quality assurance process at Vinusto and how it contributes to delivering ‘honest designs’?
As a brand committed to delivering high-quality products that match the screen representation and are made-to-order, we adhere to a stringent six-level quality check process to uphold our customer promise.
a. Cluster: After production, the master weaver in the cluster conducts the initial quality check based on the Vinusto quality checklist.
b. Storage: Upon receipt, the Vinusto team conducts a second quality check regarding raw material specifications before storage.
c. Cutting Table: The design team conducts a critical quality check at the cutting table, examining the fabric for standard handloom irregularities and common defects.
d. Stitching Table: During garment production, the tailor master ensures quality regarding stitching and finishing.
e. Post Production: The designer performs a post-production quality check to ensure the final product matches the specifications.
f. Dispatch: Before dispatch, a final quality check is conducted to ensure order details match package contents.
Since our products are made-to-order using handloom materials, the process may be time-consuming, but it effectively reduces garment wastage and maintains quality standards. Additionally, any pre- and post-production fabric waste is repurposed to create trims and accessories.
What measures does Vinusto take to ensure fair trade and socio-economic upliftment for artisans?
Vinusto is deeply committed to our weaver partners, ensuring fair compensation for their finished products and fostering a collaborative approach to market insights, pricing strategies, and product positioning. Instead of offering wholesale prices, we share a portion of the sale proceeds for all products crafted and designed by the weavers, allowing them to earn between 60-75 per cent on each item.
Our partnership approach extends beyond financial compensation. We provide valuable market insights and gather customer feedback, enabling us to streamline product development cycles. Additionally, we consult with our network of weavers to collectively determine pricing strategies and effectively position handloom products in the market.
As a socially conscious organisation, we prioritise fairness and transparency in all our dealings. Our commitment to fair trade principles aligns with the core values of our company, ensuring that both producers and customers are integral parts of the process.
In the context of sustainable luxury, how does Vinusto balance the use of eco-friendly materials with artisanal craftsmanship and timeless designs?
Vinusto is a sustainable luxury brand that prioritises both the environment and the individuals involved in creating and wearing our designs, hence our motto, #weaverstoweares. We utilise natural, organic, and recycled materials to ensure our products are eco-friendly and of the highest quality. Our collections predominantly feature pure handloom fabrics woven by the artisans of Chanderi, complemented by 100 per cent cotton for fabric and trims.
Our team collaborates with skilled artisans, household women, and seamstresses to add handcrafted details such as embroidery, hand-stitched embellishments, and tassels to our products. Our designs are characterised by their timeless elegance, and we strive to create versatile, long-lasting outfits that align with both current and future trends through our unique style and design strategy.
With a made-to-order production process, we avoid unnecessary inventory, allowing us to customise outfits for our customers and reducing return and exchange rates. Additionally, our post-production scrap fabric is repurposed to create trims and accessories, including bags, home décor items, and hair accessories.
Can you share some stories of the artisans behind Vinusto and how their skills and journey contribute to the fashion industry?
We have had remarkable experiences during our cluster visits. Upon entering, one is greeted by the sight of looms in every house, accompanied by the rhythmic sound of weaving. Observing the weavers at work, using both hands and feet to meticulously craft fabric inch by inch, is truly awe-inspiring.
This skill, passed down through generations, starts early, with children learning the art from a young age. Remarkably, women comprise up to 70 per cent of the weaving workforce, playing a significant role in this traditional craft.
During a session with our weaver partners at the handloom park, amidst the looms, we shared customer feedback, quality standards, and future plans. Witnessing the team’s enthusiasm as they worked and discussed ways to achieve higher quality standards was truly inspiring. Their passion for weaving and their deep-rooted belief in the craft were palpable, instilling energy in all of us.
We recognise the weavers as true artists, and weaving itself as an art form deeply embedded in our legacy. Fortunately, handloom and the weavers are gaining recognition in the fashion world, with a focus on ‘vocal for local’ and sustainability. Handloom fabrics, known for their versatility and breathability, lend themselves well to both traditional and contemporary designs.
Their unique textures and sustainable appeal have propelled them into popularity across various creative domains, including fashion, home accessories, and interior design. Their aesthetic value, rich cultural heritage, and sustainable production practices contribute to their widespread appeal.
Fashion designers are increasingly incorporating handloom collections to promote this art form and its legacy, with handlooms prominently featured in fashion shows. A positive trend in this direction is giving credit to the karigar, where the artisan’s signature is woven into the garment, further highlighting the importance of preserving this traditional craft.
How is Vinusto responding to the increasing demand for ethical fashion and the shift away from fast fashion?
Vinusto, a brand with a conscience, was founded on core values of integrity, transparency, authenticity, fair trade, and customer delight. These principles guide every aspect of our operations, ensuring we uphold our commitments to both consumers and weavers.
Our commitment to weavers includes recognising their skills, providing fair payment, and sharing sales proceeds, thereby contributing to their financial upliftment. To our customers, we promise authentic, high-quality products made from natural, organic, and recycled materials, ensuring the right fit and value for money, and prioritising customer delight.
As a sustainable brand, we predominantly use pure handloom fabrics and 100 per cent cotton for our collections. Working with skilled karigars, household women, and seamstresses, we add handcrafted details such as embroidery and tassels to enhance our products.
Our design philosophy revolves around creating timeless, classic designs that remain relevant and versatile over time. We focus on comfort and durability, ensuring our outfits can adapt to both current and future trends.
With a made-to-order production process, we minimise unnecessary inventory, allowing us to customise outfits for our customers and reduce return and exchange rates. Additionally, our post-production scrap fabric is repurposed to create trims and accessories, promoting sustainability throughout our supply chain.
What do you envision for the future of Vinusto? Are there any long-term goals or aspirations that you would like to share with your customers and stakeholders?
Vinusto embodies the essence of handcrafted, handmade, and sustainable fashion. We envision Vinusto as the ultimate destination for connoisseurs seeking authentic handcrafted products, available both in India and abroad. If you desire handmade, Vinusto is your go-to store. Our vision for Vinusto extends beyond providing designer outfits; we aim to deliver tailored fit and finish, offering customers value for their money and an exceptional shopping experience, both pre- and post-sales.
Currently, we are in the early stages of our journey, focusing on laying a strong foundation. Our current priorities include doubling our growth year on year, expanding marketing efforts, diversifying product categories, clusters, and penetrating new markets. We are also working towards automating the customisation process. In the pipeline, we plan to expand our range to include men’s ethnic wear, sustainable accessories, and home accessories.
Furthermore, we are committed to curating sustainable products in collaboration with like-minded partners. While these initiatives are still a work in progress, we are dedicated to advancing our sustainable mission.
