We have an unwavering commitment to quality and reliability in delivery
WFB Baird & Company Ltd., established in 1912 in Lurgan, Northern Ireland, is a venerable institution in the world of linen manufacturing, named after its founder, William Frederick Burgoyne Baird. Renowned for its commitment to excellence and innovation, WFB Baird & Company Ltd. has grown to become one of the world’s leading suppliers of Irish linen to prestigious designers, brands, and retailers globally, with manufacturing units spanning Ireland, India, and Poland. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, CEO Suchitra Menon speaks about the linen industry and the company’s presence in India.
Can you provide insights into the global market dynamics for linen products and how can companies navigate international trade and competition?
In the global market, linen products present unique opportunities and challenges, particularly for countries like India, which are strategically positioned to capitalise on shifting trade dynamics. One significant trend affecting international trade and competition is the emphasis on single-country sourcing. Brands are increasingly seeking to streamline their supply chains by sourcing and manufacturing products within a single country to reduce logistical complexities and costs. This trend offers substantial opportunities for India, allowing it to enhance its competitiveness, not just in linen but across various textiles, against global manufacturing giants like China.
For linen specifically, the primary producers have traditionally been China, India, and to a lesser extent, Egypt, along with other countries contributing on a smaller scale. However, India is gaining a competitive edge due to several factors. Government policies supportive of textile manufacturing, combined with the availability of resources and skilled labour, contribute to this advantage. Although the flax fibre, the raw material for linen, still needs to be imported mainly from France due to its specific climatic requirements, India is exploring innovative approaches to overcome this dependency. Research into the cultivation of flax using genetically modified seeds could potentially enable local production, offering a breakthrough in reducing reliance on imports.
The success of linen manufacturing in India is also due to cost-effectiveness compared to China or traditional linen powerhouses in Europe. With a vast population and efficient production capabilities, India’s manufacturing costs remain competitive on the global stage. However, it is important to note that the quality of linen largely depends on the specific climatic conditions required for flax cultivation, which currently limits significant production outside traditional regions.
Navigating international trade and competition in the linen industry requires companies to adapt to global market dynamics, focusing on sustainability, innovation in production and cultivation techniques, and leveraging government policies and initiatives. Additionally, embracing trends like single-country sourcing can provide a strategic advantage in meeting the demands of global brands and consumers, positioning India as a key player in the international linen market for the foreseeable future.
What future trends or developments do you anticipate in the linen industry?
In the linen industry, growth in terms of volume is anticipated, though this expansion is somewhat limited by the reliance on flax from specific regions like France and Belgium, where the quality of flax required for premium linen is sourced. Despite these geographical constraints, significant shifts are occurring in market preferences and consumption patterns.
In India, for example, there has been a notable change in the adoption of linen among politicians, who are increasingly choosing white linen, in place of the traditional khadi, for their apparel. This shift represents a significant growth area, with white linen now constituting about 25 per cent of the market demand, making it the most popular choice within the sector.
Another emerging trend is the rising popularity of printed linen, which is gaining traction in both women’s and men’s fashion. This trend towards prints, including checks, stripes, and various designs, began approximately five years ago but continues to experience strong demand. The industry’s adaptation to include more vibrant prints and patterns marks a departure from traditional linen offerings, catering to a more diverse consumer base seeking both style and the natural benefits of linen. These developments suggest a dynamic future for the linen industry, with innovation and changing consumer preferences driving growth and diversification.
Can you elaborate on the history and founding principles of WFB Baird & Company Ltd.?
WFB Baird & Company Ltd., a storied Irish entity founded in 1912, remains under the stewardship of the Baird family, with its current chairman, William James Burgoyne Baird, representing the fourth generation of leadership. This Northern Irish company, boasting a 112-year history, specialises exclusively in linen fabric, benefiting from Ireland’s unique geographical indications for linen quality. Despite its global expansion, WFB Baird retains its original manufacturing presence in Ireland, alongside additional facilities in Holland and a significant operational footprint in India.
The company ventured into India in 2005, driven by the escalating costs of European manufacturing, which rendered ongoing operations in the region unsustainable. After considering several international locations, WFB Baird selected India as its new manufacturing base, inaugurating its first factory within the Cochin Special Economic Zone (CSEZ) in 2005. This strategic move was influenced by an existing supply relationship with the Leela Group’s garment factory, Leela Lace, marking the beginning of the company’s manufacturing journey in India.
Initially established as an export-oriented factory, WFB Baird has cultivated a prestigious clientele, supplying linen fabrics to leading international brands such as Ralph Lauren, Marks & Spencer, Marco Polo, Uniqlo, Oysho (a division of Zara), Calvin Klein, and many others. The company’s management and key positions were initially filled by Irish nationals, maintaining its Irish heritage and operational ethos in India.
The transition into the domestic Indian market began under the leadership of the CEO, who ascended from the CFO position in 2013. Although initially dabbling in local supply, domestic demand grew, necessitating an expansion beyond the CSEZ’s export limitations. This led to the establishment of two additional factories in Tamil Nadu for weaving, dyeing, finishing, and linen yarn spinning, allowing WFB Baird to balance its domestic and international business, which now stands at a 50:50 ratio.
In addition to its manufacturing success, WFB Baird launched its own fabric brand, Burgoyne, a decade ago. Known primarily by this brand in India, Burgoyne represents Irish heritage linen sold through a dealer distribution network across the country. While the transition to B2C operations presented challenges due to the varied market preferences across India, Burgoyne has grown to become a significant aspect of the company’s business, reflecting its commitment to quality and heritage in every fabric produced.
What sets the company apart from other linen manufacturing companies, especially considering its century-long legacy?
What distinguishes WFB Baird & Company Ltd. from other linen manufacturers is not only the rich legacy it carries but also its unwavering commitment to quality and reliability in delivery. This dedication to excellence is a cornerstone of the company’s ethos, enabling it to supply to some of the most prestigious brands worldwide. The company takes immense pride in its product quality, which has cemented its position as one of the largest suppliers of linen to global brands. This reputation for excellence was seamlessly integrated into its operations when the company expanded into India, bringing with it a culture and focus on quality and timely delivery that continues to make WFB Baird a preferred partner in the linen industry.
What are the key factors that influence WFB Baird's choice of manufacturing locations, such as Ireland, India, and Poland?
The choice of our manufacturing locations is influenced by several key factors, primarily cost and market potential. The decision to establish operations in Poland was motivated by the lower cost benefits associated with Eastern Europe, which made it an attractive option for part of the operations initially centered in Ireland. Similarly, India was chosen as a manufacturing base due to its status as a lower-cost destination. Initially, there was no intention to target the Indian market directly; however, over the last decade, India has emerged as one of the fastest-growing markets for linen, a fabric traditionally seen as suitable for summer.
The seasonal nature of linen, being a summer fabric, aligns well with India’s climate, particularly in the South and West, where the weather conditions allow linen to be a comfortable choice throughout the year. This compatibility has led to linen becoming increasingly popular in regions like Kerala, where the climate remains relatively constant. The shift towards engaging with the domestic market coincided with linen’s rising popularity in India, leading to significant growth in both export and domestic sales.
The transition to actively participating in the Indian market was spearheaded by the Indian management team installed in 2013, which had a deeper understanding of the local market dynamics compared to their international counterparts. This strategic shift was not only about increasing linen fabric sales but also expanding into garment production, a new venture for the company traditionally focused on fabric manufacturing.
In Kerala, WFB Baird has opened retail stores, expanding its offerings to include men’s shirts, trousers, shorts, and recently, womenswear. This move marks a significant evolution from fabric production to garment manufacturing, aiming to cater to the domestic demand more comprehensively. The company’s future plans involve expanding its physical retail presence across India and venturing into online sales for garments, recognising the different consumer preferences for fabric and finished clothing. The COVID-19 pandemic temporarily halted these expansion plans, but with the recovery surpassing pre-pandemic levels, WFB Baird is poised to broaden its market reach, demonstrating adaptability and a forward-looking approach in its operations.
How does WFB Baird maintain its commitment to excellence and unparalleled craftsmanship in linen production?
We maintain our commitment to excellence and unparalleled craftsmanship through a steadfast dedication to sustainability and ethical practices in linen production. Over the last decade, sustainability has become a cornerstone of the company’s operations, a principle that WFB Baird has embodied long before it became a widespread industry trend. The company not only possesses all the requisite certifications demonstrating its commitment to sustainable practices but goes beyond mere credentials by actively implementing measures to minimise environmental impact. A significant aspect of this commitment is the company’s successful effort to use 90 per cent recycled water in its manufacturing processes, considering the textile industry’s substantial water usage. This initiative drastically reduces the reliance on fresh water, underlining WFB Baird’s dedication to conserving natural resources.
Beyond environmental sustainability, WFB Baird places a high value on social responsibility, both within the company and in the broader community. This approach includes ensuring fair working conditions and actively contributing to the welfare of its employees and their surroundings.
Could you discuss the role of technology and automation in WFB Baird’s manufacturing operations?
In the linen industry, the role of technology and automation is somewhat constrained by the niche and specialised nature of linen production. Linen, derived from the flax plant, predominantly cultivated in the Normandy region of France, Belgium, and the Netherlands, represents a large fraction of the world’s textile output—95 per cent of the world’s flax comes from this limited geographic area. Given the relatively small scale and specialised cultivation required for flax compared to more ubiquitous fibres like cotton, the scope for technological innovation and automation in linen manufacturing is limited.
At WFB Baird, while the machinery used in the production process is meticulously maintained, it tends to be older due to the limited advancements in technology specific to linen production. This scenario is not unique to WFB Baird but is a common challenge across the linen industry. The limited scope for innovation in technology and automation reflects the unique characteristics of linen production, which remains small-scale and niche, preventing the widespread adoption of new technologies that are more common in the manufacturing of other textiles.
What specific innovations or advancements has WFB Baird introduced in the linen manufacturing process?
We are at the forefront of innovation within the linen manufacturing industry, with significant advancements primarily occurring in the Burgoyne segment of our business. This focus allows us to control and continuously introduce innovative products tailored to meet and exceed market expectations. One notable example of our innovation is the development of ‘Super White’ linen fabric. This particular product addresses a common issue with white linen, which tends to yellow after repeated washing. The Super White linen, however, maintains its brightness for at least 20 washes, a significant improvement over standard white linen. This innovation is particularly relevant in markets like India, where traditional practices involve sun-drying whites, which is not suitable for linen fabrics. The Super White linen’s ability to retain its colour when dried in the shade has made it a popular choice, despite its higher cost compared to regular white linen.
Beyond this, WFB Baird has also introduced a variety of finishes to enhance the feel and functionality of linen fabric, understanding that the texture of linen is a critical aspect of its appeal. These include resin finishes and treatments that create a wrinkled effect, among others. While it is impossible to make linen completely wrinkle-free due to its natural characteristics, these innovations improve its wearability and appeal, making it both eco-friendly and sustainable. WFB Baird takes pride in the unique finish of its linen, known as the Burgoyne finish, which stands out in the market for its quality. This distinctive finish, developed through our ongoing commitment to innovation, is highly regarded by both brands and end consumers for the enhanced texture and longevity it brings to garments.
How important is sustainability in the linen manufacturing industry, and what measures should companies take to minimise their environmental impact?
Sustainability is of paramount importance in the linen manufacturing industry, underscored by a holistic approach to minimising environmental impact through the prudent use of natural resources such as water and energy. At WFB Baird, the commitment to sustainability is not just a statement but a practice embedded in daily operations. The company has taken significant steps to eliminate the use of plastic within its factories, seeking alternatives for packaging that can maintain fabric integrity while minimising environmental harm. Despite the challenges, efforts are ongoing to find sustainable packaging solutions, with a focus on recycling plastic where unavoidable and exploring innovative uses for linen waste.
The company champions a circular economy, repurposing fabric scraps and surplus into yarn, despite the higher costs associated with processing recycled linen. This effort reflects a broader commitment to resource conservation, including significant investments in water recycling technologies to ensure that a large percentage of the water used in manufacturing processes is reused, thus reducing the demand for fresh water.
Energy usage is another critical area of focus. In regions like Kerala, where WFB Baird operates, the advantage of hydroelectric power has been leveraged, alongside initiatives to integrate solar energy into our operations. One factory has already transitioned to using solar energy for a quarter of its energy needs, with plans underway to expand this initiative. These steps are part of a broader strategy to switch to greener energy sources, including the use of LNG for boilers, and to implement energy-saving measures across all operations.
The company has set ambitious sustainability goals, aiming for significant milestones by 2025 and 2034, as part of its commitment to reducing its carbon footprint and enhancing energy efficiency. This includes innovations in machinery and manufacturing processes, such as optimising water usage in dyeing processes to reduce consumption without compromising on quality.
WFB Baird’s approach to sustainability exemplifies the industry’s potential for positive environmental impact. By focusing on water and energy conservation, seeking sustainable materials and packaging, and setting clear, achievable goals, the company not only minimises its environmental footprint but also sets a benchmark for the industry at large. This commitment to sustainability is a testament to the belief that even small changes, when collectively implemented, can lead to significant environmental benefits.
Does WFB have established direct partnerships with the hotel industry?
WFB Baird has a nuanced relationship with the hotel industry, particularly regarding the use of linen in hotel furnishings. While the company does not produce bed linen, it has been involved in supplying linen for other hotel furnishing needs, such as curtains, upholstery, and napkins. Historically, when WFB Baird first expanded its operations to India, the premium hotel segment was a significant market for Irish linen, with high-end hotels preferring linen over cotton for their bedspreads, curtains, and other textile needs. WFB Baird was a primary supplier to prestigious establishments like the JC Mandarin in Hong Kong, showcasing the luxury and quality associated with Irish linen.
However, the usage of linen within the hotel industry has evolved over time. Today, the most visible application of linen in hotels is in the form of linen napkins, with broader uses of linen in hotel textiles becoming less common globally.
Is WFB also considering venturing into production utilising natural fibres?
We are indeed exploring ventures into the realm of natural fibres, augmenting our traditional focus on linen with a range of eco-friendly alternatives. We are actively experimenting with and incorporating various natural fibres such as coconut, banana, and jute into our product offerings. While WFB Baird has not produced fabrics made entirely from these alternative fibres, it has initiated the blending of these materials with linen, thereby diversifying its fabric portfolio and integrating the unique benefits of each natural fibre.
This innovative approach is part of WFB Baird’s broader strategy to remain at the forefront of sustainable textile production, ensuring that even as it explores these new materials, the essence of linen remains central to its product development efforts. Additionally, the company is committed to producing a significant portion of its textiles organically, starting from the cultivation of raw materials. This commitment extends to stringent controls over the chemicals used in the manufacturing process, adhering to restricted chemical lists and employing even more rigorous standards for its organic products.
By integrating natural fibres with linen and emphasising organic production methods, WFB Baird is not only expanding its environmental stewardship but also catering to the growing consumer demand for sustainable and eco-friendly textile options. This forward-thinking approach underscores the company’s dedication to innovation, sustainability, and the continued pursuit of environmentally conscious manufacturing practices.
